Chef

For those interested I have made the instructions available on Rebrickable. Please see top of post for link.

Yeah yours could definitely take a beating, and has plenty of play features too. I still have small assemblies of it in my drawers my fingers were too sore to take apart. I figured if LEGO is content with the 4x4 connection of the ball turret all these years then I should too, although I do wish it can be a Technic connection instead.

Thanks, I can't take all the credit for the angled top section but the rear of the gunship is all me For the engine I originally used 3x3x6 cylinders but had trouble integrating them with the details and colours necessary for accuracy. I came up with messy solutions with weak connections but opted out of using them. In the end I found brick building the engine using smaller parts to be less restrictive and allows the engine to be better scaled to the rest of the ship.

********************************************************************** INSTRUCTIONS NOW AVAILABLE Given the number of techniques used from JBB_777’s design I have obtained his consent prior to making my instructions available (for a modest USD 10) 486 pages of detailed PDF instructions on Rebrickable ********************************************************************** It took the better part of the year but I present my rendition of a minfig scale LAATi Republic Gunship. It is based on the version from the The Clone Wars television series, which made a stronger impression on me than the one that appeared in Episode II AOTC. The TV show told the full story of the Clone Wars and the considerable extent of the gunship's deployment and impact in battle. I used both the studio model from AOTC and images from the show as reference materials to design this MOC. The MOC uses many of the building techniques seen in JBB_777’s 2017 gunship, which I liked very much, such as the Technic frame and the method to attach the wings to the body. The engine took inspiration from Caleb Ricks’ gunship from 2018. I designed this ship to be as accurate as I could to the source material. One main attribute of the ship I included but that is usually left out in other MOCs is the angled fuselage that widens from front to back. The stepped surface is a compromise to achieve this result given the choice of the internal supporting structure. Other MOCs based purely on the version from AOTC did not have to face this issue due to the omission of doors in the movie model, which left empty spaces on the ship’s lower body. My builds tend to be sturdy and this MOC is no different. However I made a little gaffe – the ship is slightly off balance. The engine and wings of the ship went through several redesigns and by the time I was satisfied with the look I did not realize how much additional parts and weight I had added. However the ships still sits fine on its own as long as no extra pressure is applied to the rear. Additional Facts: The MOC consists of 1917 parts and took 7 months to complete Measures 33cm long (excluding turret barrels) with 38cm wingspan Shares 50% of the parts with JBB_777's gunship The AT-RT from the final image is a moded version of one of JoeChu1980's AT-RTs Chef_LAATi_View1 by Chef Aslopert, on Flickr Chef_LAATi_View2 by Chef Aslopert, on Flickr Chef_LAATi_View3 by Chef Aslopert, on Flickr Chef_LAATi_View4 by Chef Aslopert, on Flickr Chef_LAATi_View5 by Chef Aslopert, on Flickr Chef_LAATi_View6 by Chef Aslopert, on Flickr Chef_LAATi_View7 by Chef Aslopert, on Flickr Chef_LAATi_View8 by Chef Aslopert, on Flickr Chef_LAATi_View9 by Chef Aslopert, on Flickr Chef_LAATi_Geonosis by Chef Aslopert, on Flickr Thanks for reading!

I see many MOCs photographed like yours with excellent lighting on white/grey backgrounds. How do you do it? Do you need photo editing software to touch it up after?

Awesome midi-scale renditions of these ships. I suppose they are not to scale with one another due to the size discrepancies between them?

These instructions are amazing, thanks for the effort! Yes I realized after that JBB_777's gunship only has a 4 stud wide rear opening. It'll be hard for any AT-RT to fit through there, but I hope yours can at least be stored inside. I'm going to see if I can mod your build to get a minifig to stand on it, as I prefer not to take apart minifigs :p

This is a great AT-RT. I just completed JBB_777's republic gunship and think your AT-RT could fit inside. If instructions are too time consuming, are you able to take a few photos of the build partially disassembled to get an idea of how it comes together? I think it should be small enough to recreate by visual inspection. Very much appreciated

Here are some photos with the side panels and the back plate of greeblings removed. As you can see the internal structure housing the gearbox is unchanged. I just replaced some plates with longer ones to extend the rear. The extra stud length then allowed me to attach the side panels using more parts, increasing the hold. As a personal preference, I try to avoid connections using a single stud because the attachment is just too weak in most cases. I also pulled a dirty trick with a flex tube between two 1x1 open studs to keep the two 2x2 plates from collapsing inwards when pressure is applied from the outside.

I've finally completed the model with a few modifications! Back in 2016 I had the goal of building the best LEGO X-Wing but studies got in the way before I could finish. Since then several amazing X-wing MOCs have come up culminating with Jerac's, which is my favourite in terms of the design and most importantly accuracy. So when someone pointed out earlier in the thread that the rear is one stud too short (which was acknowledged by Jerac), I just had to come up with a solution. Luckily it wasn't a difficult one. Extending the rear by a stud also enabled the rear to be built much more robustly. The rear in the original design was about the most fragile part of the ship, and the pieces just didn't really come together that well. You almost have to squish the components together to get the desired look but it's clear the pieces do not fit in snugly. However with an additional stud length all the issues could be addressed, and the rear is now about as solid as the front of the ship. Since the four side panels enclosing the rear now fit snugly in place, this created problems fitting the underside panel in its original form. I had to replace the 1x8 door rail piece with two 1x2 door rail pieces on each side of the underside panel for it to fit. While I was building the ship, I noticed that I could put a flex tube here inside the front fuselage held together by the two clips already in the design. This allowed the sides of the fuselage to remain straight all the way down the length of the ship by pushing out the tiles against the panels underneath. I understand that ideally the sides should be straight without assistance, but practically it was difficult to achieve so the flex tube here really helped. On a separate note I'm not sure if it's "legal" to cut flex tubes into lengths that are not multiples of one stud. And voila! I now have my perfect LEGO X-Wing thanks to Jerac. As you can probably tell I picked to build the white version, but I substituted all the reds for dark reds because I think it looks much more authentic that way, or maybe because I'm just too used to seeing that colour in official LEGO sets. I'd post a pic of the entire ship if I'm not limited by the 102KB attachment limit. Hope everyone else is as impressed as I am building Jerac's X-Wing.

Amazing build! I never liked the fuselage construction in the official sets, but your build is about as close to the real thing as it gets. Have a few questions though: 1. Your parts list have clips with some being thick O-clip and others thick U-clip. They are the same piece but the thick U-clips are of the older molds that are no longer produced. I'm wondering for your build (and maybe in general for how these clips are used by MOCers) if there is a difference? Since I see you use these clips in non-conventional ways like angling plates into them, I'm wondering if the type of molding matters. Same for the Modified 1 x 2 Plate with 1 Stud with and without groove, though this one I'm pretty sure doesn't matter 2. As exterior plating for the body, the SNOT belly of the x-wing has a large brick-built plate section fitted upside down onto the gearbox. However I noticed the section cannot be pressed entirely down, it's like 70% pushed into the studs but cannot be pushed down further. I'm wondering if it's supposed to be like this, or did I do something wrong earlier on in the build. 3. There's one part in the instruction for the stand that requires fitting four 1x1 clips onto two bars attached to the neck of the stand. I found there's not enough room on the bars to fit the clips there. Instead I had to build the top part of the stand to include the clips first, and fit the entire top part onto the bar, so that the four clips are partially secured onto the bar. I'm not sure if you know what I mean. I don't have the instructions with me so if my descriptions aren't clear I can clarify further once I'm back home. Thanks