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Beware, that's simply a break-out adapter which will not reduce the voltage and could damage your lights. A 7805 is an electronic component -- a voltage regulator that will 'step down' higher voltages to 5V. From both an ease-of-use and battery-life perspective, you might be better off with a 'buck' converter like this. Connect your vonado cable output to its input (cut off the red connector) and your LED lights to its output (cut off the white connector).

Hmm..the skinny on this as of now appears to be that parts from the online PAB (very limited selection/colors/usually pricier than BAP) count towards GWP but parts from BAP do not (although they do count towards the free shipping minimum).

Oh, of course! The PDF is the main thing. Hopefully LEGO introduces easier cross-platform sharing in a future update.

Gmail isn't blocking json files (which are a plain text database) ... perhaps you're thinking of js (JavaScript) files? BTW, thanks for including the pages with the popup explanations in the file, Balasz! Very very helpful!

Sorry for the delay. What I meant was that the sliders don't have a "sticky" option -- if you don't keep a finger on the slider, it will return to zero. My relatively simple solution was to just use the sound buttons as virtual +/- buttons for train speed. Please see this recent post for a comprehensive guide of how to make the sliders sticky and control up to 4 trains together or individually with PUP 3.0, including lights!

Can you share a link for this seller please? Thanks for that tip...I did wonder about lubrication.

Well, the MR52ZZ bearings we get are supposed to be non-removable double-shielded by definition (the 'ZZ' part). For my next experiment, I got bearings from AliExpress advertised as ABEC-5 for approx. $0.33/bearing shipped. The cheapest MR52ZZ ABEC-5 bearings on eBay US at the time of this post appear to be $0.90/piece.

And the similar "tram" in 60097 City Square (2015)... I wonder if the fact that subways/light rail are NOT a fact of daily life in the US outside of NY/Boston/Chicago/LA/SF, etc. has anything to do with it. Although they are pervasive throughout Europe. and these days I assume throughout China as well. Maybe LEGO will accept the recent 'Toronto's Pride' Ideas submission and grant your wish ;)

That's a blanket 'cover-our-megablocks' legal maneuver, but it's understandable. The vast majority of these modified parts are safe, but have they been certified (toy) safe? In the Bricklink AMA, the LEGO CMO mentioned chromed parts in paticular. Say that these parts continue to be allowed, and one day some parent files a multi-million lawsuit against LEGO saying that my kid contracted XYZ illness as a result of licking a chromed part. There is probably zero truth in the allegation, but the reputational and monetary damage to the overall LEGO brand from unfair media publicity would be IMMENSE. All their sets would probably come under doubt. I vehemently disagree with them throwing out unbranded MOC instructions, etc. Any legal issues there wouldn't involve consumers but IP holders and LEGO legal is well equipped to handle such spurious claims.

@dr_spock Thanks so much for all of your tips and posts. I've been using BAP for PUP control and automation so far but looks like its time to crack open my Boost kit! One question though...is there a simple increment/decrement input to control dual-train-motor AB/CD ports instead of tilt? I was able to use the controller option in PUP 3.0 projects to let one slider control two motors, but that doesn't fit our train model. Sorry if this is a dumb question...I'm very comfortable with traditional coding but just getting the hang of this flowchart-type block-based style PUP uses.

No, there won't be any splitters because PUP devices are designed to be "smart" and require the four wires so they can communicate with the hub. Also no official PUP extension cables exist yet. Some PUP devices like the lights, simple medium motor (from the App-Controlled Batmobile) and train motor are actually "dumb" (data lines just have resistors for identification, no actual communication from device-to-hub). Such identical devices could theoretically be DIY-stacked but the modification would be destructive and I wouldn't try it unless you have some experience and familiarity with electronics (plus you may run into per-port current limitations).

Awesome...very glad to have helped! Can't wait to see it come to life. Power Functions battery boxes/motors will be cheapest directly from Shop At Home if you reach the $35 free shipping limit. Last general tip: The Bricklink Global Cart (accessible from the top right)--but not the regular cart--lets you sort a store cart by price in ascending order. Do that and skip to the end to get an idea of the most expensive lots/parts in that cart. Because searching for parts on Lego Bricks-and-Pieces is a pain, those expensive lots/parts are typically all I check for on B&P (except those which are clearly retired). There should have been an "Add to Wanted List" button at the bottom of each cart (and that store's global cart) which does this for you.

Probably a very slight chance it's not being run at a loss. Simply good customer service whose "price" is included in regular LEGO sets.

This was confusing for me too when I started out. Click the Wanted Items tab on the left, which should make it jump to the Wanted List with a graphic view of the missing items as shown above. If you didn't exclude partial lots, check "Show Wanted Qty" so that it will show parentheses with the number of each part you actually still need. This situation happens basically because Bricklink can't find these items within the price or full-lot constraints you selected. So at this point, you can also try unchecking the price and/or lot exclusion boxes which should expand the available sellers. Click on a seller and sort the cart preview popup by price (this setting will be remembered), scroll to the bottom to see the most expensive parts. Try with a few more sellers in the list and if a part is universally expensive, substitute it or check Lego PAB/BNP if available. Also, don't forget shipping! For sellers that don't have instant checkout on BL, look at the shipping terms carefully and ask questions if necessary before committing to an order. Some sellers will insist on using a Priority Mail Flat Rate Box...see if you can get them to use a Padded Flat Rate Envelope instead, it's very sturdy and will accommodate a ton of parts for $8 anywhere in the US.

Sorry for necro-posting. LEGO has officially deprecated Maersk Blue in favor of Medium Azure (which is what 2014's Maersk Ship #10241 used). It looks like all the necessary parts for the Maersk train are available at a reasonable price in Medium Azure as of the date of this post except for non-existent 1x2 cheese slopes (1x1 will have to do). This also opens up the possibility of making more wagons with Medium Azure decoration.