MinusAndy

Thanks man. UPDATE: The proportions are a little cartoonish, which I don’t mind but it is getting too long (125 studs) and in order to get the canopy cover to the right height I had to lose the small bulge behind it, which I rather like, soooo... I need to make the fuselage 2 studs lower. This means a total rebuild of the power distribution and HOG (no pun intended) box.

Fantastic! I really like the front grille. The rs500 is a total beast of a car too! Nice choice.

Weird!! I bought some heat shrink tubing a week ago for this exact reason. I’ll give it a go tomorrow. For me I’m hoping it takes some play out of the joints.

I lubed it with margarine and got another 30 seconds of runtime out of it but ultimately it destroyed itself after a couple of passes down our driveway.

I wrecked a fair pile of beams axles and gears when I was a kid by building a large scale model of my dads microlight. I just built the trike part at a scale using the big technic wheels, added the radio gear from a Tamiya car and powered it with a large plastic propellor and a 540 motor. The prop was geared down and it very quickly started using the axles as spools for polymer string melted out of the beams. It was a brief but glorious model.

The best way to solve this is really easy. it’s all Lego. Just call it Lego. Job done.

The black stripe is understated genius. It’s really nice to see something subtle like that done so well.

I actually think that things like the stud gaps on the axle bushes that allow them to be fixed to studs is a good example of why Lego is one of the greatest design solutions of all time. It’s the fact that you can add system bricks to technic and vice versa that makes it so versatile, let’s not forget that if you’re primarily a technic builder who occasionally uses system parts, these things all allow your imagination to have fewer limits imposed by the medium. Things like this also allow people who are primarily system builders to augment their models with bits of technic. one thing I love to see with builds is ingenious use of left field parts for different purposes and the fact that Lego is designed in a way that provides a vast pallet of pieces for us to “have at” in any way we can is the best feature it has.

Thanks man. I got this built to the point that I have an idea how to shape most of it but I found loads of mechanical things that needed improving so I stripped it down to square 2 and started over. I now have a tricycle with all working components and just need to add the HOG and controls. the new gearbox/apu has rotary switches to change outputs and direction while the l motor runs constantly. The 2 main functions from that gearbox are controlled by the bionicle teeth on the side. When the undercarriage is up, an automated switch puts the drive back into neutral and vice versa. Thanks for looking, I’ll post up more pics soon.

That’s a cool idea! I’ll try and do an LDD of the thing I built as I had to strip it for parts.

here’s my take on this idea. I made it much more compact by using 12t 1/2 bevel gears to make the transfer between the two diffs. this system can be used to make a locking or limited slip system. The red diff outputs to the wheels as normal, by having the inputs to the grey diff going in opposite directions it means that the output from the grey diff crown wheel is stationary when the speeds of the wheels are equal but any difference in speed manifests in the grey crown wheel turning one way or the other and that output can be used to either operate a clutch gear or just have friction applied to it so the diff is semi open. basically it produces a single measurable output of the difference between wheel speeds which can then be used in loads of ways.

Ahh I see! Great. Thanks!

So having messed about a bit it connects to the powered up app but as far as I can tell the app only has profiles for trains and I want to run two motors from it.

That is outstanding! I thought the first pic was the real thing at first glance.

You could use a pair of 57585 connectors in opposition on a central axle to give you a stronger hub connection, then drive it through the rim?

A quick update: I’ve been working on the nose shape and cockpit. I’ve added a mid air refuelling door to the nose and started the canopy. It’s slightly too bulbous at the moment but it’s getting there. I was thinking of using the new tapered panels that came on the Sian for the nose but though the temptation to use them as they are an easy fix is marred by them not quite being right. I’m tempted to use similar techniques as the engine pods to add a bit of cohesion to the design. I have also made an ejector seat which has the hub behind it so you pop the seat out to get to the batteries. the moc as it stands is 114 studs long. This means it will be about 120 studs wingspan.

Why not do something clever with the outputs of four motors using differentials instead of a gearbox that will probably soak up more power than it delivers?

I shall give both of the above a try. thanks andy

So I bought a train hub in order to have a more compact powered up hub for a moc from brick link some time ago. when I turn it on it does two rapid white flashes then slight pause and repeat and my brick controller2 app won’t connect to it. Well it connects and the light on the hub goes solid white but the sliders don’t have any effect. Am I missing something? Or is it broken? also, Bonus question: do Lego make extension cables for powered up yet? Thanks for any help anyone can give me.

This is the first time I’ve heard of this car. The back end looks like it will really lend itself to a Lego build. I’m Looking forward to seeing your progress.

How about a phase1 civic type R? new/old mini? new beetle? mazda mx3? xr3i?

Could you make it so that front steers 2x middle and rear mirrors middle?

Thanks for posting these designs up. Although I haven’t built them directly, your approach to building and explanations of why things do what they do in terms of, for example: torque sensing, has given me a much greater understanding of how to design and build stuff that actually works. basically, I owe you a beer.

I reckon that’s the right attitude to have. Lego is never going to be a100% accurate representation, it’s almost like a caricature so as long as you get the overall proportions and the key features then you can add Lego personality to it in spades. regarding scale, your benchmark measurement is wheel size. You only have a few options there and as 80’s rally cars tend to roll on smaller wheels it will affect the scale you eventually produce the model at. the 8880 wheels happened to be the perfect size and shape for me to build the car at 1:7 scale. Scale is just a number to allow you to have a common factor to make size decisions on. So for example, if you put a side view of the beast into sariels scaler and you know that the wheel you are using is say 10 studs high. Draw that dimension onto the scaler and it will then proportion all the other measurements you make from the drawing accordingly. I hope that helps. I’ll be following this build as I ‘kin love group B. It was basically wacky races in real life and contained the kind of reckless lunacy and shed engineering that I wish more motorsport had. Sure people died but that’s a small price to pay for seeing a 700bhp car doing 140mph down a farm track covered in people with fire coming out of the exhaust.

I’d probably have used system for them if tlg made a 4x4 curved piece with a curved top but they only do a 3x3 so I think it would have looked bitty. mom open to suggestions though.