StudWorks

I ordered some pieces on BrickLink and this one piece looks different than the other pieces that were obviously real Lego. This piece has "BL" logos on the studs instead of "LEGO" and there is no text on the bottom. The piece also feels different when connected to genuine Lego pieces. As this piece was ordered on BrickLink, the "BL" makes me a bit confused, though I believe Bricklink wouldn't intentionally make a fake Lego piece. Any thoughts?

After finally building a functional chassis for my MOC I'm ready to start on the exterior and interior detail. Since this is the first time I'm making a 1:8 sports car, I would really welcome some advice from the community. When looking at the chassis photos please note that the EV3 IR sensor will not sit on the large motor for the final product. My car MOC is a 1:8.3 scale replica of the Lexus LC500 in Porsche 911 GT3 RS orange. The most challenging parts for me will be replicating the body with panels (I never replicated the shape of a car for an MOC), as well as the headlights, taillights, center console, and an engine cover with details under the hood. I will also be putting a medium motor in the trunk to power the small retractable wing as seen on the Premium Package for the LC500. Chassis Pictures: Blueprints and exact measurements (in inches) for the MOC according to Sariel's model scaler: Thank you.

Incredible! This surely must have been a challenging build, it just goes to show what BuWizz is capable of at a large scale! I'm happy I got one of their bricks and can't wait to use it in my future MOCs.

Thank you for the feedback, I found something that works well... In the second picture you can see I placed a 3L red axle joiner to another piece in the chassis. Everything is going well with my car MOC and I look forward to adding the exterior parts soon!

Awesome job! If Lego released more yellow Technic pieces I'd totally make an RE-Amemiya RX-7 (Super-G with fender mirrors, mmm... ) in 1:10 scale. It is my absolute favorite car, after all.

In my car MOC, I braced both sides of most of the driven axles so when moving the axles won't wiggle out of the beams from the torque. In the example pictures below, I was wondering if the first picture, with the brown 3L with stop is good enough for use, or if I should always place a beam in front of it to prevent the 3L from pulling itself out (as shown in the second picture). Do I need to always prevent axles from pulling themselves out or is it fine without doing so? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I just wanted to thank the community for all your help, the car works! I used @Technonsense's DNR gearbox and reinforced it in the chassis and the car went through testing on floor and carpet in fourth gear without any skipping. I will also be keeping the fourth gear's 1:1 ratio. Even though the chassis moves perfectly, it's not 100% completed yet. The way I placed the EV3 brick seems odd... In the pictures above, it's very hard to see, but the brick seems to be on an angle, meaning something is wrong in the way it was placed. I used blue beams to show the angle the brick appears to be on. In this picture I am pointing at the holes in where the brick is mounted in. One side is mounted on a beam on another is on a so I'm curious if the vastly different pieces is the problem. I will need to fix this, but I'm glad I got a lot of progress in my build.

Incredible! Same what they said and many more, this looks like such an amazing journey. I have never seen someone with so much dedication to heavily modify a Lego set. Are the fenders and wheels custom painted? I'm sure everyone on this forum would also love Lego to release more colors of 24118. (I'm waiting helplessly for the next UCS Technic car)

@Technonsense Thanks for the example! If I could make the left side a stud less width, put in the new driving rings, and if it doesn’t have gear skipping, it will be great.

Yeah, you’re right. I was overdoing everything because I didn’t want the skipping to occur when the car drives. I’m just trying to make the chassis have the tightest gear setting possible. You made me rethink that the hardcore testing was overdoing it, thanks.

Thanks I checked that out. Could, but when I test for skipping the H-frames seem to be still. I'm 100% sure it's because of the gears. Under high torque, the blue gear and gray gear lose a lot of contact with each other enough to cause the skipping.

@Doug72 Thank you. In fact, I do own Sariel's guide and it has been very helpful. I updated the photos with a white background as per your request, thanks for the advice. The way I replicate the gear skipping is by placing a piece on the output axle that will make it unmovable and crank the input axle until the skipping occurs. The 3L piece I am using with the drive ring is this: I am 100% sure that the skipping is from the two gears I mentioned. In my example, during the skipping, the input axle moves and the output does not. I'm really puzzled with this and want to know what I can do to fix the skipping between the blue and gray gear. I'll build your example of my gearbox and see if the same thing happens on my end. Once again, I really appreciate your advice and illustrations.

@suffocation Today I built a modified version of your suggested framed design gearbox as a prototype to what could someday fit into my MOC. In the pictures below, you can see that I moved the H beams from one side into a different area to make more room that is required to fit inside my car. I don't know if this is the best method to decrease the width or not. It would be ideal to use your design somehow, but with the width a stud or two less. The only issue (that I had as well with my previous DNR shifter) was with the gear skipping in the spot where the yellow axle is pointing at, the blue gear to the gray gear (on this side where I point at, not the other). I would be really excited to use this design if I only I can solve the gear skipping and get everything to the required width.

Thank you everyone for the advice. You're right, I'm a beginner at MOCs and Eurobricks has been a very valuable resource for help me to learn from the best. I read all posts to learn as much as I can, but I just started doing so a few months ago. I do trial and error the best that I can and I have to learn to be more patient when I "hit the wall" too. @suffocation I really appreciate the pictures that you have provided and especially your insight. Your illustrations are examples of frames that would definitely work, but unfortunately there is a 5 stud wide limit in the black center tunnel (anything wider would affect the interior) and I need to have the driving ring to be just off center as per the car that I am building and the input axle needs to instead be in the middle. Your example is very close and I appreciate that, but not exactly going to fit this build. I am in the process of taking your advice and doing much more trial and error with options that may work. I will keep plugging along. As requested, here are some pictures that will show everything, you can see the input axle in middle and driving ring off center, and how I need it to be as compact as possible. Also, I am attempting to replace the panels but can't find anything that wouldn't bump into the gears just yet. I will keep trying.

Thanks. Before I do anything else I need a better way to replace this panel... I'd use frames instead of panels as suggested but they won't fit because the of the gears. Any ideas for something else to replace the black panel here? If I had a LDD example, this would be much easier.

@Gray Gear Thanks for the advice. You mentioned having overlapping liftarms left, right and above the frames mounted in the center. I am not sure how to do that, my issue is that I can't find a solution to mounting the frames to the beams on the side, as mentioned in my previous comment. And the main problem I am facing with is this... This is the shell of my gearbox that holds all the gears. And this is what happens when it goes under torque. In the picture above, you can see that the axle is bent. Do you have an example of how I can fix the bending and mounting issues? Thank you.

I could replace them with 5x11 frames, but then I have to find a better way to mount it to the side beams. If I end up replacing the panel with the frame, I'd still not know how to fix the reinforcement issues that bends the DNR gearbox. I'd also have to mount the frame in a different area, since there are less pin holes in the frame than the panel. I am willing to mount the frames but I am not sure as to how to reinforce the gearbox into the frame to stop the bending. Thank you.

That makes sense, but I don’t know how I could replace the black panels with frames, without changing the rigidity. I am willing to do so. Any tips with that would be appreciated. Hence why I needed that second 90 degree limiter.

Update on my MOC: So I put together a drivetrain using the new DNR gearbox design recommended to me and did some tests to see how much torque it could handle until gears start to skip. This DNR gearbox design is far better than the previous one I was using. However, during my initial testing the torque has somehow managed to be strong enough to make the gray gear selector rings skip inside the red gears. I removed one of two 90 degree limiters to make gear shifting (via paddles) more easier, so putting it back on would hopefully solve the issue (the torque is so high it almost shifts into another speed). Here's a red gear that got its inner teeth damaged from the gray rings skipping them. Any thoughts on if the removal of the limiter as mentioned above is causing the skipping or is it something else? The new DNR gearbox is also having some reinforcement issues. Here's a picture of it staying still... And under high torque, where things start to bend slightly. Any advice on how I could reinforce this better? Thank you.

Thank you everybody for your input, it will be a great purchase. @kbalage Excellent points you gave for me to consider. I have to get some PF elements too (I used to only build with EV3). I already have one L motor I had for a long time with the Arocs set, but I'd like to buy two more new motors anyways. Are XL motors better or will two L motors do (for 1:8 scale cars)? I will also be getting a servo motor, lights, and extensions. How many lights should I get if I want to have headlights and taillights on my cars and how many extension wires would you recommend I get? Thanks.

Hi @grego18f, Yes the chassis is based on the DB11, but I modified most of it. Thank you for your input, it does help me.

@Mechbuilds Thanks, that helped with mounting in the gearbox, along with a 4L L-shape beam. Progress is going well, but there is plenty left to do. Mounting the gearbox to the floor is my next challenge, the piece where I am pointing at seems difficult to mount to the plate properly. Any ideas?

I appreciate the helpful posts and I tried many options suggested. This illustration below (as per multiple recommendations) is my favorite. Far better than what I originally had. I yanked out the old one and put the new one in according to LDD design illustration provided by @aeh5040 and I’m finding ways to put it in the drivetrain and reinforce it properly. The red pin is input and the yellow pin is output When fitting it into the chassis, I would like to have the entire setup be 5 studs wide to fit in my MOC, as shown with the blue beams above. This is my first time building a custom gearbox and it seems quite challenging to do so, any tips on how I should "case" the gearbox (reinforce it with tough pieces) and place it into my build? Thank you.

Thank you everyone for your feedback. I am sorry, my intention was not to make another post on the same topic. I mistakenly made this as a new post because I wanted to put the emphasis on having a stronger gearset with the DNR shifter. The EV3 motors that power the car are very strong and I need to eliminate all of the gear skipping. I only have the space under the driving ring to put stronger gears. This was the original weak set of gears I had that kept on skipping. I thought about replacing the setup with knob gears but they couldn’t fit under the ring. Of course I would do that if I could fit it. I would like to find a design example compact enough and as strong as the knob gears with no skipping. @Didumos69 It is the motors that are causing the skipping because the 12t gears are too weak. Any ideas for a stronger redesign for this section as seen in the pictures above? I don’t believe the MOC is a flawed design, just this section is because of the 12t gears. Thanks.