Aurorasaurus

Oh, makes sense. Thanks for the answer!

Its K1t, searching that online yields https://german.alibaba.com/product-detail/QXW-Original-IC-Chips-LMV821AICT-Operational-1601107496432.html, which says that the chip spec is LMV821AICT, whatever that is. Apparently its a general purpose amplifier.

Just to give my two cents: I thought kick was a pretty scummy company/platform? I wonder why cada chose to associate with them...

You can always take them off and clean it :) This looks like a huge project, I wont pretend I understand how you're doing it. Good luck and great work so far.

THIS. I didnt get what all the fuss was about til I used proper servos, now its honestly really unpleasant using the makeshift solutions lego has done in the past. They're cheap and precise and strong. Whats not to love?

I agree. Or with radio receivers, some of the chinese fake pf receivers use 2.4ghz, so there's no reason lego couldn't do the same.

Meshing gears along a half stud offset is quite tricky. Maybe you could use 32291, 69819, 63869, or 6536 with half bushes to get the offset to make some reinforced enough structure. Good luck with this project!

Impressive! It looks really polished, you used the available parts really really well. The use of wheel arches for the rear bodywork and under the front windshield is brilliant too. In my eyes it looks good from all the angles you showed. Great work!

I think its possible to semi permanently change soft hoses shapes by putting them in hot water. I saw someone else on the forum trying to do this to make a spring for a clock. Maybe this could work for your fenders? Overall, what a crazy build, it looks gigantic and super detailed, I'm really impressed with your dedication to realism.

Specifically, PTFE spray, or white lithium grease.

For me, between a truck and a sports car, I think I would have to pick a truck. The practical element and the repairability far outweigh anything I'd get from a flashy car. However, if I'm allowed to pick anything, I think I'd have a toyota corolla, they're comfortable, reliable, small enough to be used in the city, and I just think they look friendly. I mean, look at it!

Woah, this is super cool! I love how it actually sounds pretty good too.

I seriously doubt the possibility of motors and batteries in one for technic sets, as a system like PF/PU with interchangeable components. But at the same time, maybe it is cheaper R&D wise to make a specialised new hub unit thing for every model than to design a generic reusable system, and part of a broader shift in focus for TLG. Like how we're seeing a shift from generic "do it all" elements to more specialised "do it properly" elements. (specialised new tires for vehicles, bevel and non bevel gears, new porsche hub)

Sorry, I was trying to ask why that happens. I understand that most people will call them new elements if the databases call the new elements. But why do the databases call them as such? Maybe they get new element ID's with lego because they take up an element place in their warehouses?

Does anyone have an explanation for why printed parts are classified as new parts by some people/systems? To me it doesnt make sense, its the same part, just with a print, its the same as a pre-applied sticker to me. Why the big distinction, is what I'm really trying to ask.

Sorry again, I'll do better next time. I wasnt sure where to put this since I didnt want to actually finish it as a build, so I didn't consider it right for generic WIP. But in retrospect, thats probably where this should have gone. My bad

Actually, it was just gonna be a bit of a meme on my shelf Buuut, that is a good idea, we'll see :)

Hopefully this silly little build will put a smile on someone's face :)

This is a nice, elegant fix. Good work!

Nope :( I tried that and was honestly confused why they didnt make it work with it.

I used them on a buwizz motor powered vehicle, they add more resistance than I liked. I also managed to melt a small turntable with buwizz motors once. You will need lubricant on these, and then they will turn smoother but with a different kind of resistance. But I think they'll be strong enough for brushless models. Maybe you can, I havent tried this.

I have used a vice and press fit gears onto them, if you have the appropriate metal gear. But if you want to attach Lego gears, I advise you to glue a 2L axle connector to the shaft. But every pin hole your moving axles go through will need bearings or it will melt. I like this, the use of a smaller servo for the diff lock is nice too. And the snow is so beautiful. Like this, 6 pins can be used to hold the wheel, rather than the 3 you find on Lego wheel hubs. Using 6 pins, I have not had my wheels come off once, even in a 37km/h crash. You can connect a planetary wheel hub and then use pulley wheel to get 5.4x reduction, with the strength of injection moulded inner gears. After that, maybe you can use planetary wheel hubs again at the wheels. You can also use the internal reduction from a fake PF XL motor and a 3d printed part, with a metal gear, to get 37x reduction from the output of your A2212. I posted about this earlier in the topic.

Do you mean on both sides? If I understand correctly, this gearbox is reinforced on both sides, so shouldnt have too much of a skipping problem?

Thank you, and thanks Peppermint!

I think its for attaching a towball too, then using a 9L link for pull/pushrod suspension. I think the 3L suspension arm with towball has an axle hole on it to connect to the really long wishbones and use conventional hubs. The spacing is right, I think.