Aurorasaurus

Nice model! I'm always surprised how compact you build, it really is impressive. Is this the same configuration you were driving at Buwizz gathering?

Could this be the marketing team changing how something looks? Like what happened with the two buckets/one bucket thing with the recent volvo excavator and truck set?

It looks good in the renders, and I like the removeable bodywork. How does the rear suspension work, are the light grey shock absorbers connected to an antiroll bar? 2 motors doesnt seem like enough to me, how is the performance?

I have the STL files I printed available here. Please note that the tolerances are not perfect for my machine, and probably wont be for yours either. You will need to modify the file to make it print and fit the gears inside nicely. EG the 24t gear doesnt ft.

I have printed one of these, apart from errors regarding the sizes of some of the holes (the 24t gear doesnt fit and the cv joint rubs a bit) the concept appears to work, defender rims with 107mm tires fit just fine. https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aurorasaurus/miscellaneous/ultimate-portal-hubs- ^ second photo thats in portrait and cant be resized small enough by bricksafe to display nicely without missing the point of the photo Awesome work @gyenesvi!

You can actually just print the ball a bit oversized and sand that down instead, but super glue and the Lego part might be stronger. Im going to try make these files printable today.

Aha, thats very clever, I like it. I hope it works. Will you share the files? I'd love to try 3d print it and test it out for you.

I want to dive head first into rc, straight into brushless. Mounting the motors to lego seems to be a solved problem to me, I've seen enough clever designs reading this thread occasionally that I'm sure it is possible. As for geek servos, is there a particularly good source for them or are they the same from every retailer? Thanks for you speedy reply!

Can you attach 5m half beams with cross axles to the arms next to the towball to stop the ball joints disconnecting, while still retaining a high steering angle? The lego planetary hubs do not allow you to keep a high steering angle if you do this. Aside from that this design looks fantastic, I especially like the ability to use 3 pins to hold the wheels in, but also 6 if you add 3 pins, I think thats a fantastic idea for supporting the old wheels but giving better strength to the new ones.

Recently I've been feeling cautiously curious about experimenting with hobby grade rc electronics in Lego builds, and I wanted to ask some questions just to make sure I'm not too far wrong with my understanding. From what I've read/seen other people using, a2212 seems to be the most common motor size people are using? As for receivers/controllers, I think I saw people talking about dumborc, so would that be worth looking into as a beginner wanting to get the right thing the first time? In terms of parts with bearings to avoid melting Lego, I have CAD and I'm not afraid to use it :D As for the ESC, do I just need to match the current values to the expected draw from my motor + a safety factor? I somewhat understand battery specifications, so I want to go with a 3s lipo. I hope this is enough information for someone to steer me in the right direction, thanks for reading!

So that beginners can build the sets without paying much attention. Personally I think the sacrifice is well worth it.

About this- the sixth port is used for an m motor which drives the fake engine. but you can easily replace it with a powered up version or use an adaptor cable. As for 2 buwizz 2s or 1, if you read the Greyhound WIP topic you can see that RacingBrick did some tests for didumos which showed that 4 L motors on 2 buwizz 2's was the most effective way to power it. I think you should go with a buwizz 3, as it'll be more versatile for future builds.

Wow, your exploded view looks awesome. What a cool project!

Does the flicking get faster when you try to connect to it? If so, yours is in an overloaded or whatever it is state where it just wont work. Dont charge it; let the battery completely drain, you'll have to turn it back on a few times, but once its completely dead charge it up again and it should be fine until you seriously overload it again :)

What an adorable little car! Also, I really like your photos, especially the one with the leaves in the background.

Thank you! Your measurements are very helpful, I will buy some cada shock absorbers now. Thanks to everyone else who helped out, too.

Does anyone know if the 9l shock absorbers available in the parts section of the website are the same stiffness as 9398 shock absorbers? All my no name clone ones have springs that are too big and cause the shock to come apart, so I'm looking for something better.

Firstly, the way the calibration works in brickcontroller is it picks a point at 90 degrees thats closest to the middle. So your steering axle needs to be in line correctly with your steering rack centered. Failing that, it's possible you simply got a faulty motor. I have 2 42160s for the motors and parts in them, and I haven't had any issues with those motors. I hope you can get this resolved!

Personally, I prefer fully studless technic, because IME its a lot more sturdy than anything with studs. The little boxes on top of 42069, the roof box on the defender, the weird pillars on the ford ranger, they all feel like they come off too easily. But I fully agree that when it comes to accuracy, they're simply superior. Ultimately, I think system pieces can go on display sets, but not play sets. I agree with this completely. But I also wonder, how much is reasonable to expect of TLG? I think that might be the next big question for the community.. Anyway, sorry for my rambling and unclear post, its just my thoughts as they come.

I think the rear looks good, the general shape feels right, and using those pins as tail lights is a nice touch. But I dont like the front so much, it looks a bit like a tractor IMO. Nice work making a video showing it driving, too. But good work anyhow, its probably better than what I could do with the set, so go you!

I think it would have to match the scale of Dom's charger. I also think that it could realistically be motorised with the new hub from the Porsche. I dont usually pay attention to piece count vs price so I couldnt say which one it is from this list, but maybe its not even a 1h technic set?

I think I like the Cayman better, but they both look good! The spoiler on the Cayman just fits perfectly IMO.

I love it! It looks great and performs great. The video was also good, you found some really good locations to film at and put a lot of effort into the video and it shows. One thing I noticed was the subtitles describing the model were on screen barely long enough for me to read. The footage of the studio model spinning around also felt a bit quick. But overall, I think you've done a wonderful job!

Me too, thats been my favourite thing after switching to android. But to get back onto topic, no, you cant download and install apk files on IOS, this is changing in the EU soon though, hopefully. As for @Boathill's problem, my number one solution would be brickcontroller 2. Best of luck!

Perhaps they motorised the doors or something...