thekoRngear

Just ordered another Defender (one is never enough specifically for the 42110). This one will be kept as the official set as the other one has been experimented a lot and made its way into the form of Jeep Bruiser MOC by Gyenesvi. Howevr, I will make some changes to the drivetrain. Initially I intended to not include the sequential gearbox and include a 2-speed gearbox (16t/20t and 20t/16t) in the console area. However, a concept just came to my mind. What if I keep the main gearbox as a 4-speed sequential gearbox (no neutral reverse no Hi/Lo)? I want to make the output [the yellow axle coming out of the 12t black bevel) of the gearbox go directly to the engine output. And the input [the red axle] will be connected through coupling of 16t gears with the centre differential. I will also use 16t/16t gear pair instead of 24t/8t for the central driveshaft. The 4-speed gearbox will remain mostly the same. A question might arise as to why not just go with the JB70's pimped up version! Well, from my small experience although the pimped up gearbox/drivetrain system won't skip/crack but after several weeks they start to get unpleasingly full of friction. You just won't feel good when you drive the Jeep in higher gears specially with Lo mode enabled (driving/reverse). I honestly think the way the chassis is built around this marvel of (overcomplex too) mechanical engineering is not sufficient enough to transfer power smoothly from and to and also to provide backup against overall friction the drivetrain will create- be it in the original drivetrain or the pimped up one. Sacrificing the Hi/Lo mode (the front distributive gearbox as a whole), the u-joints, connecting the output straight to the engine- all these things might give this monstrous 4-speed gearbox some justice to work smoothly for Long-term. Experts opinions needed. Will it be worthy enough? Again it is not from any desperation. Just a thought for experimentation.

I have em (2 in black, one in yellow though). Much appreciated!!!

Guys. From all your helpful comments, I understand: Cada's older type diff is inferior to Lego's. To replace the diff with newer type requires couple of changes. I decided to use Lego's older type differential to use in the red beauty. I will take the diff from the Le man's racer moc (42093, Grohl) and use the newer type diff in the orange beauty Before pouring all that efforts (I'll note down all the suggested workaround to fit the new one) I want to give the old (Lego) diff one more go. @astyanaxif you show or point me to your workaround in any form I'll be helped.

A bit of a sad news. Today when I was running my Red Super car the middle 12t bevel gear of the differential got slipped out. I checked and found out the little thing that holds the bevel gear got cut out (more like decapitated). The whole differential is now unusable. Luckily I have one of the newer differentials from Lego. Guess I have to install that properly. This incident happened at around 4 minutes of playtime. The set is now one year 3 months old. I usually do not change gears while driving it. I do steer a lot though Has anyone else experienced this? What could have caused this?

Definitely one of the most gorgeous supercar MOCs to date. Perhaps the Sian wheels finally look the best with this MOC model.

Sorry for late reply. The YT videos. Don't worry, it's on nitpicking level. When the hood comes down, the lime parts on both sides jerks

Nico I've run out of all the gorgeous words to describe how cool and authentic it looks! I must add despite being completely different the 205 GTI and the Ford F150 perhaps are the most realistically looking specially the front doors. The sense of beautification is pure art!

Agreed. I think using the new types of gears will eventually be more common/happening. Maybe Lego will start using them selectively. I guess the upcoming super car had its development years started before the 42140 and hence we might not see them in it. According to Zerobricks the new 12t gear is also requiring less slack and more well-behaving with the rack (see the new gear stress test thread) which is good for steering.

I can go on and on to praise its visuals and looks. One thing [in general] I dont get at all is why a function's half part works smoothly than the other in Technic When the front hood opened up it's probably the best I've seen in my little experience but as soon as it went down my excitement gone south.

That also sounded absurd for the BMW bike right? But Lego have a thing for making enormous stuffs. Or, I could say Lego have the notoriority to increase parts count with limited functions and appealing the masses moar

Thanks for the heads up (real dog days in terms of leaks and rumors, whence was the last time we got a Hot Topic label on this Technic theme!) but I think Lego will not tag same price for the Super car and any other set for the same timeline release. Either one of them can be true. If the Heli turns out to be such massive parts pack then I think it might also get an 18+ label. Lots of categories got 18+, why not the Helicoptre? Not that I want it to be 18+ LOL, I just guess it. Same price plus same parts count for two? Nah...

Guys, do you think Lego going to incorporate the new 12t and 20t gears in the upcoming Supercar? Maybe this is really a stupidity to ask but we just saw them with the 42140 few months back and a video showing their capacities uploaded just a few weeks ago. I guess for the gearbox where there are 20t/12t double bevel gear pair replacing them with this new gears pair can reduce friction (I dunno to what extent) in highest gear(s). Yes, a display oriented set, limited play-ability values but then again JB70 and the gang will start tinkering it and that's where the fun begins IMO.

Great! Always like the description. BUT, this time Stunning photos as well! I should also add, with the continuation from RC Jeep Bruiser MOC @gyenesviis making some serious Lego RC Crawlers.

Please do a the-car-racing-on-the-floor (or wherever) video! I can watch it all day long That tricolore is a mixed bag for me. Because I like the car more in yellow than in black (aside from red). But the tricolore looks bettah on black than on yellow

Thanks @allanp and @kolbjha Now I understand it is a re-release. I will definitely go for the original one (8417) after seeing AllanP's reasoning. BTW guys, my 8838 shock cycle unit has one quite large cool Technic poster. It seems the seller kept the brochure and the poster really well. Howevr, I did not get such poster when I was given my first 8838. This one will surely be going into a frame and will be hanging around my Technic display shelf Another thing I must admit regardless of times, Lego's photography have always been modern. They don't look dated at all!

Guys, I dunno where to put this question: as part of my old Technic bikes collection, I was looking forward to buy the 8417 bike. But then today I discovered another bike that looks similar to this- the 8430. Anyone who's been known with both of the sets can tell me what exactly was the difference between them? Based on the model number my intuition says the 8430 was released shortly after the 8417 (quite strange). I also think people are more familiar with the 8417 than they're with the 8430. Is the latter a better or corrected version? I am curious. I now think I'll go for the 8430 instead.

Grohl's accessories are the best!

LOL. No, I was aware of the warning found in the olden days instructions booklets. The rear axle was made sure to have the bushing got sufficient spacing in between the half-bush and the studded beam on each side. As I've said in the previous post I even disconnected the axle that has the 16z gear on one side and the crankshaft on the other. The rear axle moved absolutely fine. Thing is crankshaft's cross-axle part needed a slightly more space when rotating. The right studded beam could not provide that. So, further more spacing in between half-bushes and the studded beams on each side and it is completely gone. Same cannot be said for the 8838 Shock Cycle. It is a technical marvel. I have had hard time when building it for the first time when I was 8/9 and now I have a great experience at 36 (with some err...initial quirks). It's amazing to see how Lego used to make-do's in the early 90's (and even earlier) when the essential parts were not even released. The housing that the Shock Cycle got actually cannot be freed from the crankshaft's rotating slack demands I think. The housing is secured/cemented by top and bottom brick placement. Hence, loosening the gear even further and also loosened just a little bit in between the 3L black clutch pins and the engine blocks. But I forgot to make sufficient space in between the bushes that hold the 16z and 24z gear bearing axle So, blockage and friction made it noisier and worse. Made proper spacing and the unnecessary friction was gone. The crankshaft's slack demanding blockage is still here but it is acceptable.

Thanks. I think black, as a colour accent can go really cool with lime green, more than DBG. That said the black blades looks fine to me. You can try definitely

Now this looks so great. BTW, are MOCers slowly approaching to the newer diffs I have one as spare thinking about replacing the old one used in the 42093 Le Mans Racers MOC.

Happy to say it is fixed. For the 8225 I loosened the half bushes of the rear driving axle so that the studded beams can ever so slightly be wide. It allows the engine crankshaft rotate freely. The cart now moves smoothly. For the shock cycle, I loosened the half bushing (those were bit tight when I built them) that holds the 16z and 24z gears in the 6L axle. Also, the bevel gear that comes out from one of the crankshafts was mounted with more gap between the engine frame and the gear. There indeed are Technics within (specially the old) Technic Thanks for response

Maybe this helps you a bit.

I think [to "save" Technic] a balance between large scale solidly performing Mechanical sets and large scale Electronic sets every year can do. The worrying about Technic mostly arose from two factors: Display-oriented empty shells or display-oriented good-for-nothing-sets [the owners have every right to go for them and MOC/MOD them out or just have fun building the set. The owners are happy and smarter, no offence] Current electronics system [C(rap) Plus] and their hard-to-accept-yet-harsh-reality pricing Yes, the 2010 decade started greatly, but the problems and concerns discussed here are originated from the same decade's later points. These days a C+ 42129 Zetros or a C+ 42131 Cat are advertised and pushed with great efforts where the 42108 made the crane concept cartoonish, the 42128 Tow Truck definitely got less pushes from TLG. The 42139 is one of the few great exceptions for this still fresh decade, but poor fella was the only solid purely mechanical and proper Technic set for the FIRST HALF of 2022

Umm... this is a bit embarrassing for someone who been regularly building Big to mid-size Technic sets for couple a years and now face difficulty when building certain similar aspect of building 90's little sets. I face slight difficulties moving my 8225 Rally Cart and 8838 Shock Cycle. The problems are similar: the engines. They create some kind of blockage/friction when moving. I checked parts and build process. They seem fine. I disconnected the engine and they run smoothly. The reason I think causing this trouble is this: the #2853 Engine crankshaft is not having sufficient slack when rotating the pistons. (pardon my limited choice of words)To elaborate this: when the crankshaft rotates at one point it needs to get slightly out of the hole of whatever beam (or part) it is connected and moving from. For 8225 and 8838 I see there is literally not this tiny amount of space that could provide that slack for the crankshafts. They are perfectly tight. Howevr, I should also add I'd built both of them in my childhood. They used to move so smoothly (or maybe I was not aware of it this much). Any suggestion guys?

Looks superb alone or also beside the Sian!