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THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

jshuiting

Eurobricks Vassals
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Everything posted by jshuiting

  1. Thank you very much! I checked them out and 1 works like a charm now, the other still gives me some minor issues, maybe needs some more bending. Really didn't expect such a easy fix btw, the XL motor working on all connections really threw me off, but i noticed it has a different connector with much wider contacts..
  2. They're all V1's, 2 from my 8043 which also used to work just fine before i swapped them out for V2's, and 2 from the 42030 i ordered. When i stack the other motors on top of my XL motor's connector they all work aswell, but when you turn them arround they stop working again. Connections are all clean aswell, no visible rust or oxidation. Don't have a converter cable sadly.
  3. I bought a set from bricklink a while ago and tested out the electronics, only to find that they were acting really strange. I'll try to explain it is as clear as possible but i may mess up a bit. So the set came with 4 motors, one of each kind, XL, L, M and Servo, and these all work perfectly fine on my own battery packs and recievers. But now i hook them up to the included recievers, so XL on red, L on blue, but then only the XL motor works. Now i'll switch them arround, but yet again it's only the XL motor that works, but now on the red channel. The L motor does function correctly when hooked up to a different reciever or straight to a battery pack. Further testing shows the XL motor works on all my recievers, both red and blue channels. The L motor works on 2 out of 4 recievers but only on either red or blu side, not both sides on the same reciever The Servo motor worked on none. And the M motor worked on 3 out of 4, also on just one side per reciever, either red or blue. And again all the motors work directly on the battery pack, or when hooked up to known good reciever. So what's going on here? How does one motor work on a reciever, but another does not? Can i throw away the motors or are the recievers at fault here? It's really frustrating because i am in the midst of making a deal with the seller aswell, but i can't without knowing exactly what's broken. It's like the recievers are picky in which motors they want to actuate and which ones not, but how's that even possible?
  4. Looks absolutely perfect, got that awkward but industrial shape down to a T.
  5. Sorry for going off topic but i can't help but say you should check Sariels comments from time to time on Youtube, the guy was never nice, just very arrogant and rude. Also the CAT looks to be alright, very detailed but not really interesting, kinda like the big white crane from a while ago. It's only selling point will be it's size, maybe a good set for parts but even then you really need to like yellow, and have deep pockets. Really dissapointed in this and last years line-up in general tbh, only the tow truck stands out imo.
  6. If it were cheaped i'd agree, but even then would've prefered it with 3 axles and no PF.
  7. Never expected my childhood favorite to show up in this competiton, and really nicely done too! Wouldn't change a thing about the actuator if it were up to me tho, the original was only supported in the front too, it looks about as right as you can get imo.
  8. And rightfully so, it's a expensive, bad looking, slow and unintersting R/C truck. Especially if you compare it to trucks in this scale from the past, such a dissapointment.
  9. Official promotion material right from https://www.lego.com/en-my/product/6x6-all-terrain-tow-truck-42070 Looks quite outdoorsy.
  10. The current leak looks so bad that it must be a placeholder. And judging by the CGI look and the word "PRELIMINARY IMAGE" covered over i'm hopeful it'll change.
  11. Yeah i see what you mean, the open fenders do look a bit out of place. But then again i always thought the same thing about the 8285, it is kind of fitting with Technic imho.
  12. Holes?! in a technic set? Outrageous!
  13. It's been too long since Lego had a proper truck in their line-up too, can't wait to see what it'll look like though. Pricepoint wise and it being a 4x4, it'll probably be the same scale as the unimog right?
  14. Absolutely perfect, such a densely packed model with so many functions, it's ridiculous! Can't wait for the instructions!
  15. As someone who collects the arocs sized trucks, i agree. All of those brought something new to the table, but cars are just whatever, chassis with a fake engine and openable doors, woah. Must say this isn't a good looking one either, the stickers define what it's supposed to mimick, and the shape doesn't even come close to the real deal.
  16. I don't think he really needs a coil as the engine won't build up any compression anyway, even a open flame would do the trick But yeah a magnet mounted to the axle, a hal sensor, coil, ignition box plus a sparkplug with the correct wiring would be the most optimal and most simplistic form of ingition, but at that point you might aswell get a real engine and experiment further on that. Making something that will just melt or fail spectaculary seems like a big waste of time and money to me, some things are just not meant to made out of Lego.
  17. You could use one of those CDI's they use on 50cc/125cc racing motorcycles, easy to fit and easy to program. What's the idea though? You could make a "engine" like the one from the video you posted, but it'll never be able to run on it's own anyway, so why bother with a ignition?
  18. I'm still amazed by the fact they actually planned to produce the V-22 as a Lego set, getting to build a licensed military vehicle goes pretty much against everything Lego stands for and i'm actually kinda glad they are trying to stay true to those standards. Sucks for the people who wanted the model though, would've been a very interesting build i'm sure.
  19. Really suprised to see your model getting published by a brand i shall not name here, great job and well deserved!
  20. "Petroleum Jelly - Pure Petroleum Jelly is compatible with plastics and synthetic rubber, but not advisable for natural rubbers." I'm speaking from personal experiences though, never had any issues with acid free Vaseline myself thusfar, whilest WD-40's silicon and PTFE caused plenty of cracked parts. I'm sure PTFE and silicon would be safe to use aswell if it weren't for the solvents they like to use. Got a nice list here people can use, just find out what solvents are used in your lubricant of choice via the safety sheet, and compare; B "Minor effect" is already enough to cause weakening and cracks.
  21. Don't use anything besides acid free vaseline, even the PTFE and silicone sprays that are supposedly safe for plastics aren't. They may not damage the parts visibly, but they sure change the structural integrity of the parts. Especially parts that are based on the bushing design all crack much faster, and some gears like the 24 teeth one just snap in halve.
  22. That's sick! I'm loving all the details, especially the roll-cage! Great idea, and well excecuted!
  23. Does using 2 also make it work smoother? I noticed that the bucket on mine only opens at higher pressures, slamming itself close and making lots of noise, that's still a mayor issue i want to fix somehow.
  24. I bought the 8043 on bricklink a while ago and it came with two V1's, bricklink states the V2's were included in some intances though, as alternate parts. I wonder if there's any benefits though, apperantly they don't make a difference on M motors, but mine does turn arround painfully slow.
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