MP LEGO Technic creations

I believe that these two parts are used in the front suspension setup of both upcoming Technic F1 cars - SF24 & RB20.

Dear friends, it's been a month or so since I've updated this topic and now I feel that there's a progress worth mentioning. The most significant change seems to be a completely reworked suspension setup. I finally got rid of all those turntables that unfortunately added friction (and made the model completely undriveable) in favor of conventional wheel hubs. I also couldn't stand those tyres falling off, therefore these had to be omitted as well. I'm glad to report that no more issues have popped up since. There are a few design changes here and there, further reinforcements and such usual things. As far as the engine is concerned, I also wanted to try something different here (and I had a feeling that classic engine block would look too tiny). I know that there's definitely been another builder with same/similar idea, thus I won't claim any credit for designing it. A few more shots of the bodywork: The true pain turned out to be designing of the car's bonnet. I can't figure the right and stable geometry out for God's sake. My current iteration looks like this, it's faaaaaar from being useable, though: Inner part of the trunk is now less colourful and more tan than ever before And a shot from the bottom, so I have something to conclude with. Those four links at the rear are used for stabilizing both semi-trailing arms (not realistic but... ) Now it's time to fill in the floor gap I guess. Enjoy December, folks

Thank you! A huge thanks goes to the amazing community of Eurobricks for help as well That yellow machine has been in progress for already about three years and it's a sugar beet harvester (in this photo without its front digging part) You can find some further info here (although due to my laziness there are no recent updates...): I have another sugar beet machine from ROPA in progress, maybe I shouldn't create separate topics all the time.

I've worked on the rear part and managed to achieve a little improvement. I hoped it to be more visible but I believe that even one plate of difference in height can make a difference, even though not as significant. Other progress includes the addition of a rear bumper and an exhaust pipe, either of these two could be easily rebuilt in the future if needed. Problematic use of only one rim per wheel can be seen in picture below - I've tried many ways of fitting 11x11 technic ring into each tyre and connecting these to rims, unfortunately that didn't bring any positives. And finally - I've started rebuilding the boot in tan, as this will be my version's colour of interior. I was once more surprised by how few tan liftarms there are available on Bricklink The whole underside will be covered in inverted tiles when finished. I know that it would be better to place both a-pillars at a proper angle instead, the right time for that is definitely yet to come The weight of the car is now roughly 5 kilograms.

I've found a service manual for Turbo R, which seems to be the same as for a bunch of other RR and Bentley cars of that time. Here's the link: https://bmlec1heritageimages01s3.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/technical-library/TSD4700.pdf To make your searching easier - the whole rear subframe is showed on page 285 and there are a few other diagrams on page 306. I really appreciate your help!

I'm really thankful for all this information Now, when I understand it in theory, I still have one other question. This diagram shows how rear subframe of this Bentley looks. There's a rear subframe crossmember connected to the final drive crossmember (that's where the diff is) via six rods. Are those multiple Panhard rods (I feel quite dumb asking this) or is there one anywhere else?

Hi everyone, I've made a little progress on this. Apart from some minor structural reinforcements, both rear view mirrors have already been installed and I've finally got rid of that makeshift front bumper and replaced it with a proper one. The only thing I haven't fugured out yet is the silver stripe. At the moment, I can't think of any other solution than a sticker Anyway, I consider the whole front part fairly recognizeable, even though it looks a bit block-ish. Other than that - after many not-so-well looking attempts at the rear window's metallic silver frame this is what I came up with (those LBG parts will definitely be replaced). However, it's the opening mechanism of the boot that I'm the most proud of. Four shock absorbers inside of the boot lid should be a record, right? The upper pair of shock absorbers is responsible for a sliding movement, which ensures the other one additional range of rotational movement. Its result is the most satisfying feeling when opening and closing ever A little demonstration can be seen here (Flickr) And finally - I haven't found any info about this yet. Instead of an explanation, every mention sounds like it's kind of a miracle that provides an unprecedented driving characteristics unmatched by any predecessor

So, I haven't really made any improvements to the a-pillars yet but a few other things have been changed. Apart from some minor reinforcements, these are mostly related to the rear part of the bodywork: I've tried to reproduce the original's silver lines around taillights - plates looked too thick, therefore I've settled on much more eye-pleasing brackets, even though these are neither metallic silver nor around the very corners. (Note that rear doors still do not close as far as they should to blend with the body, I still need to figure that out...) Other than that - I've tried another approach to doorsills. Now the difference is equalled by overlaying multiple parts right in front of the doors. The boot itself is relying on a double hinge mechanism (as well as every door, I've probably forgotten to mention that before), there's nothing supporting its weight when opened, though. I've also installed all four new extra hard shock absorbers. As I've found, even though these new shocks look extremely stiff, every suspension setup has its limits (Apart from suspension drop there's no visible bending when adding about 10 kilograms of random weight) In my opinion the car's slowly getting into right shape. Of course there is room for further improvement.

I'm very well aware of this and I've spent a really long time with this particular thing - unfortunately, the distance (probably thanks to small gaps between doors and SNOT) between front and rear mudguard/wheelarch isn't in whole studs, not even in halves, therefore these doorsills would have to be either divided into parts or it just wouldn't look well. In fact, the other side of the car still has it.

Alright, thanks for feedback, guys! @Appie and @msk6003 I've decided to drop those old shocks in favor to the new super hard ones. In a new set called Poinsettia, these are introduced in dark green, so I'm going to use them instead. I've used curved slopes all around the roof but that doesn't seem to make the roof much curvier. The only way to make it look like it should, I suppose, is to split it into a few segments and tilt each of them slightly more than the one before. The downsides of this solution are that the roof would be much less sturdy and there would be ugly gaps between each pair of these segments. I've considered this solution in the beginning, then decided not to go this way, though. Unfortunately this is going to be only worse after installing harder shock absorbers I think you're right, although I've thought that this had been eliminated by adding two studs of length to my original chassis frame. Obviously not... I could add two more studs or move both A-pillars backwards by shortening the roof and front doors by two studs but neither of these solutions are going to look much better (in my opinion). If you could estimate - how big is the difference between the current and the wanted placement of the pillar?

The front suspension uses 4 standard wishbone parts per wheel and all four of them are connected together by a liftarm at an angle and held by tow balls. There's an axle connected to this liftarm which is used as a pivot point for steering. The tow balls are not involved in steering at all. It might not be a completely legal solution, I haven't found any stressed parts, though. (I know that quoting images form the same page is not ideal....)

Alright, after 7 Bricklink orders and one from Pick a Brick, I finally have a bit of a progress to share. First of all - on this website I found a side view which turned out to be quite useful in building bodywork. I also realized a strange issue with the wheelbase of my original chassis - while the wheelbase was right, everything else seemed off because the A-pillars were mounted too close to the front axle. It would be possible to avoid this issue by shortening the roof....which I decided not to do. Instead, I've added two more studs right behind the front axle to improve the proportions a bit (the length is now around 70 cm). Therefore, let's call it the Bentley Turbo R LWB from now on (1211 were made according to the mighty internet). It has been already equipped by all four doors, as well as some 'ratchet' mechanism, which produces a satisfying click when closing each door. A spare wheel has also found its place on the underside. There are a few issues that I'm aware right now: The suspension - these shock absorbers are far too weak for such a build (over 4 kilograms - the bodywork isn't even finished, every seat consists of 500 parts....). I'd like to use the old 11,5L but they seem to be quite pricey and I wasn't able to find a single test of their strength. This leads me to a question. According to some sources the rear sub-frame is anchored by a Panhard rod. I have honestly never seen a Panhard rod on a semi-trailing arm suspension (only on live axles). Is there anyone who could explain this to me? Another one: I thought so some time ago. Not now. As the tyre is supported only on one side, after some time it stretches and comes off easily. I really want to use these rims as they're the only ones that can be connected to not fall of but then there's no other tyre choice as well Anyway, let's move on to my most ridiculous LEGO purchase ever - a unicorn minifigure Its wing piece was needed to resemble the Flying B logo of Bentley. I know that an illuminated hood emblem is rather a domain of Rolls-Royce's Spirit of Ecstasy but look at that! I've experimented with headlights as well. Unfortunately metallic silver dishes don't reflect as much light as I hoped to. I was really delighted when LEGO Poinsettia came out because there are a few dark green wedge plates that will make the bodywork much cheaper than the currently available ones. And finally another question for @Seasider: These two cars have somehow different front side window support and mirrors arrangement are these two different versions from the same time or one is newer than the another one? Thanks for reading and any advice, have a nice day

Hello everyone, after some time I'm starting another WIP topic. Even though I haven't been building a car for a very long time, this one might be an exception in my agricultural and construction machines era. I've always wanted to own a British car, though I'm not anywhere close to it. Therefore I've decided to build a scaled-down version :) While scrolling through some websites, this one instantly caught my eye. Even though I have never seen it in real life, nor I have any other bonds with it, this project means much more to me than any other before and through ist completion I'd like to pay homage to some recent events. I don't have many planned functions, I would just like to reproduce as many details as possible, of course coloured in British racing green, in LEGO's dark green colour respectively. Due to its scale there are going to be no motors but lights might be considered in the future. I've started with a frame: Added both axles: A quick placement of the roof: I had to add some dark green elements as soon as possible so it doesn't resemble a wrecked Batmobile I was really delighted when i found out that those slope corners fit nicely and even exist in dark green I also started with the front part of the frame: Things were going well until I realized that due to its construction there's a half stud offset in two directions , building this weird contraption above shock absorbers is my best solution so far: I know that using motorcycle wheels on car is not ideal but that's something I've been wanting to try since their introduction. Here's how they're connected to large turntables. After mounting every rim is secured by two 3L pins, so that's for the first time when wheels won't come off during presentation Yep, you have to install rims and tyres separately, which is a bit unrealistic... And now a few photos of my current state (the front bumper is just a placeholder): The most interesting feature built so far is in my opinion definitely a car seat, which I'm sure I have never seen before in any other MOC. Have you ever wondered how to expand the possibilities of your LEGO car interior? Introducing my own concept of an upholstered LEGO seat. Built with more than 500 original parts (an amazing way to compress shock absorbers to their maximum when multiplied by four ) I've made a short video demonstration below: As I've stated in the beginning, I have no knowledge about the full-size counterpart, therefore anyone's help would be very welcome. Thank you for visiting

It might be considered an inappropriate bumping of my own topic without anything worth saying, because I haven't filmed a full presentation of this model yet. For anyone interested, here's a short video demonstration of some functions outdoors: And a few bonus photos :)

This is something I'm really looking forward to. Building backhoe graders is always fun. This resembles one of my attempts to fit it into a tight space...