MP LEGO Technic creations

I believe that these two parts are used in the front suspension setup of both upcoming Technic F1 cars - SF24 & RB20.

Dear friends, it's been a month or so since I've updated this topic and now I feel that there's a progress worth mentioning. The most significant change seems to be a completely reworked suspension setup. I finally got rid of all those turntables that unfortunately added friction (and made the model completely undriveable) in favor of conventional wheel hubs. I also couldn't stand those tyres falling off, therefore these had to be omitted as well. I'm glad to report that no more issues have popped up since. There are a few design changes here and there, further reinforcements and such usual things. As far as the engine is concerned, I also wanted to try something different here (and I had a feeling that classic engine block would look too tiny). I know that there's definitely been another builder with same/similar idea, thus I won't claim any credit for designing it. A few more shots of the bodywork: The true pain turned out to be designing of the car's bonnet. I can't figure the right and stable geometry out for God's sake. My current iteration looks like this, it's faaaaaar from being useable, though: Inner part of the trunk is now less colourful and more tan than ever before And a shot from the bottom, so I have something to conclude with. Those four links at the rear are used for stabilizing both semi-trailing arms (not realistic but... ) Now it's time to fill in the floor gap I guess. Enjoy December, folks

Thank you! A huge thanks goes to the amazing community of Eurobricks for help as well That yellow machine has been in progress for already about three years and it's a sugar beet harvester (in this photo without its front digging part) You can find some further info here (although due to my laziness there are no recent updates...): I have another sugar beet machine from ROPA in progress, maybe I shouldn't create separate topics all the time.

I've worked on the rear part and managed to achieve a little improvement. I hoped it to be more visible but I believe that even one plate of difference in height can make a difference, even though not as significant. Other progress includes the addition of a rear bumper and an exhaust pipe, either of these two could be easily rebuilt in the future if needed. Problematic use of only one rim per wheel can be seen in picture below - I've tried many ways of fitting 11x11 technic ring into each tyre and connecting these to rims, unfortunately that didn't bring any positives. And finally - I've started rebuilding the boot in tan, as this will be my version's colour of interior. I was once more surprised by how few tan liftarms there are available on Bricklink The whole underside will be covered in inverted tiles when finished. I know that it would be better to place both a-pillars at a proper angle instead, the right time for that is definitely yet to come The weight of the car is now roughly 5 kilograms.

I've found a service manual for Turbo R, which seems to be the same as for a bunch of other RR and Bentley cars of that time. Here's the link: https://bmlec1heritageimages01s3.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/technical-library/TSD4700.pdf To make your searching easier - the whole rear subframe is showed on page 285 and there are a few other diagrams on page 306. I really appreciate your help!

I'm really thankful for all this information Now, when I understand it in theory, I still have one other question. This diagram shows how rear subframe of this Bentley looks. There's a rear subframe crossmember connected to the final drive crossmember (that's where the diff is) via six rods. Are those multiple Panhard rods (I feel quite dumb asking this) or is there one anywhere else?

Hi everyone, I've made a little progress on this. Apart from some minor structural reinforcements, both rear view mirrors have already been installed and I've finally got rid of that makeshift front bumper and replaced it with a proper one. The only thing I haven't fugured out yet is the silver stripe. At the moment, I can't think of any other solution than a sticker Anyway, I consider the whole front part fairly recognizeable, even though it looks a bit block-ish. Other than that - after many not-so-well looking attempts at the rear window's metallic silver frame this is what I came up with (those LBG parts will definitely be replaced). However, it's the opening mechanism of the boot that I'm the most proud of. Four shock absorbers inside of the boot lid should be a record, right? The upper pair of shock absorbers is responsible for a sliding movement, which ensures the other one additional range of rotational movement. Its result is the most satisfying feeling when opening and closing ever A little demonstration can be seen here (Flickr) And finally - I haven't found any info about this yet. Instead of an explanation, every mention sounds like it's kind of a miracle that provides an unprecedented driving characteristics unmatched by any predecessor

So, I haven't really made any improvements to the a-pillars yet but a few other things have been changed. Apart from some minor reinforcements, these are mostly related to the rear part of the bodywork: I've tried to reproduce the original's silver lines around taillights - plates looked too thick, therefore I've settled on much more eye-pleasing brackets, even though these are neither metallic silver nor around the very corners. (Note that rear doors still do not close as far as they should to blend with the body, I still need to figure that out...) Other than that - I've tried another approach to doorsills. Now the difference is equalled by overlaying multiple parts right in front of the doors. The boot itself is relying on a double hinge mechanism (as well as every door, I've probably forgotten to mention that before), there's nothing supporting its weight when opened, though. I've also installed all four new extra hard shock absorbers. As I've found, even though these new shocks look extremely stiff, every suspension setup has its limits (Apart from suspension drop there's no visible bending when adding about 10 kilograms of random weight) In my opinion the car's slowly getting into right shape. Of course there is room for further improvement.

I'm very well aware of this and I've spent a really long time with this particular thing - unfortunately, the distance (probably thanks to small gaps between doors and SNOT) between front and rear mudguard/wheelarch isn't in whole studs, not even in halves, therefore these doorsills would have to be either divided into parts or it just wouldn't look well. In fact, the other side of the car still has it.

Alright, thanks for feedback, guys! @Appie and @msk6003 I've decided to drop those old shocks in favor to the new super hard ones. In a new set called Poinsettia, these are introduced in dark green, so I'm going to use them instead. I've used curved slopes all around the roof but that doesn't seem to make the roof much curvier. The only way to make it look like it should, I suppose, is to split it into a few segments and tilt each of them slightly more than the one before. The downsides of this solution are that the roof would be much less sturdy and there would be ugly gaps between each pair of these segments. I've considered this solution in the beginning, then decided not to go this way, though. Unfortunately this is going to be only worse after installing harder shock absorbers I think you're right, although I've thought that this had been eliminated by adding two studs of length to my original chassis frame. Obviously not... I could add two more studs or move both A-pillars backwards by shortening the roof and front doors by two studs but neither of these solutions are going to look much better (in my opinion). If you could estimate - how big is the difference between the current and the wanted placement of the pillar?

The front suspension uses 4 standard wishbone parts per wheel and all four of them are connected together by a liftarm at an angle and held by tow balls. There's an axle connected to this liftarm which is used as a pivot point for steering. The tow balls are not involved in steering at all. It might not be a completely legal solution, I haven't found any stressed parts, though. (I know that quoting images form the same page is not ideal....)

Alright, after 7 Bricklink orders and one from Pick a Brick, I finally have a bit of a progress to share. First of all - on this website I found a side view which turned out to be quite useful in building bodywork. I also realized a strange issue with the wheelbase of my original chassis - while the wheelbase was right, everything else seemed off because the A-pillars were mounted too close to the front axle. It would be possible to avoid this issue by shortening the roof....which I decided not to do. Instead, I've added two more studs right behind the front axle to improve the proportions a bit (the length is now around 70 cm). Therefore, let's call it the Bentley Turbo R LWB from now on (1211 were made according to the mighty internet). It has been already equipped by all four doors, as well as some 'ratchet' mechanism, which produces a satisfying click when closing each door. A spare wheel has also found its place on the underside. There are a few issues that I'm aware right now: The suspension - these shock absorbers are far too weak for such a build (over 4 kilograms - the bodywork isn't even finished, every seat consists of 500 parts....). I'd like to use the old 11,5L but they seem to be quite pricey and I wasn't able to find a single test of their strength. This leads me to a question. According to some sources the rear sub-frame is anchored by a Panhard rod. I have honestly never seen a Panhard rod on a semi-trailing arm suspension (only on live axles). Is there anyone who could explain this to me? Another one: I thought so some time ago. Not now. As the tyre is supported only on one side, after some time it stretches and comes off easily. I really want to use these rims as they're the only ones that can be connected to not fall of but then there's no other tyre choice as well Anyway, let's move on to my most ridiculous LEGO purchase ever - a unicorn minifigure Its wing piece was needed to resemble the Flying B logo of Bentley. I know that an illuminated hood emblem is rather a domain of Rolls-Royce's Spirit of Ecstasy but look at that! I've experimented with headlights as well. Unfortunately metallic silver dishes don't reflect as much light as I hoped to. I was really delighted when LEGO Poinsettia came out because there are a few dark green wedge plates that will make the bodywork much cheaper than the currently available ones. And finally another question for @Seasider: These two cars have somehow different front side window support and mirrors arrangement are these two different versions from the same time or one is newer than the another one? Thanks for reading and any advice, have a nice day

Hello everyone, after some time I'm starting another WIP topic. Even though I haven't been building a car for a very long time, this one might be an exception in my agricultural and construction machines era. I've always wanted to own a British car, though I'm not anywhere close to it. Therefore I've decided to build a scaled-down version :) While scrolling through some websites, this one instantly caught my eye. Even though I have never seen it in real life, nor I have any other bonds with it, this project means much more to me than any other before and through ist completion I'd like to pay homage to some recent events. I don't have many planned functions, I would just like to reproduce as many details as possible, of course coloured in British racing green, in LEGO's dark green colour respectively. Due to its scale there are going to be no motors but lights might be considered in the future. I've started with a frame: Added both axles: A quick placement of the roof: I had to add some dark green elements as soon as possible so it doesn't resemble a wrecked Batmobile I was really delighted when i found out that those slope corners fit nicely and even exist in dark green I also started with the front part of the frame: Things were going well until I realized that due to its construction there's a half stud offset in two directions , building this weird contraption above shock absorbers is my best solution so far: I know that using motorcycle wheels on car is not ideal but that's something I've been wanting to try since their introduction. Here's how they're connected to large turntables. After mounting every rim is secured by two 3L pins, so that's for the first time when wheels won't come off during presentation Yep, you have to install rims and tyres separately, which is a bit unrealistic... And now a few photos of my current state (the front bumper is just a placeholder): The most interesting feature built so far is in my opinion definitely a car seat, which I'm sure I have never seen before in any other MOC. Have you ever wondered how to expand the possibilities of your LEGO car interior? Introducing my own concept of an upholstered LEGO seat. Built with more than 500 original parts (an amazing way to compress shock absorbers to their maximum when multiplied by four ) I've made a short video demonstration below: As I've stated in the beginning, I have no knowledge about the full-size counterpart, therefore anyone's help would be very welcome. Thank you for visiting

It might be considered an inappropriate bumping of my own topic without anything worth saying, because I haven't filmed a full presentation of this model yet. For anyone interested, here's a short video demonstration of some functions outdoors: And a few bonus photos :)

This is something I'm really looking forward to. Building backhoe graders is always fun. This resembles one of my attempts to fit it into a tight space...

Wow, I really am honored! Just a stupid question of mine - should't the first two photos be rearranged so a picture of an actual build would be shown on the front page?

It might seem that the field of agriculture is not much affected by the boom of modern technologies, but it is precisely in agriculture that a rapid development of automation and robotization is expected not only in the processing of crops, but also in their cultivation. For this reason I have decided to build something different this time - namely an official autonomous concept of a John Deere tractor called SESAM 2. This one differs from other visions in particular by the possibility of attaching the driver's cabin and the ability to work both in a purely autonomous mode or be remotely/directly controlled from its cabin. In the field, the cab can be detached at the headland, allowing the operator to monitor and possibly control the tractor. The efficiency is further increased by the ability to work in a swarm, so it is possible to monitor or control several machines working in the same field from one cabin. Since the real tractor has a power of 500kW, I decided not to use just one motor to drive it, but two. In terms of shape, the so-called large angular motor is suitable for the model of this particular tractor, because it enables better use of space - i.e. the possibility of placing it vertically on both sides of the chassis between the axles, thereby freeing up space in the center of the model, which can subsequently be used for other functions. A central differential is usually used to compensate for the difference in wheel speeds of the front and rear axles due to their different diameters, however the disadvantage of this variant is that if one of the wheels of the front axle is not in contact with the ground, all the power of the drive system will go to this wheel and the model will stop. By inserting suitable gears, the speed difference will be equalized, so it is possible to replace the central differential with a fixed connection of the drive shafts of both axles. Thanks to the drive motors located on the sides of the central frame, it is possible to add a mechanical locking rear differential working on the basis of a centrifugal regulator in conjunction with another differential used to compare the revolutions of individual wheels (note: each of the output shafts of the drive differential is connected to the output shafts of the "control differential", but one of them utilizes higher number of gear wheels, so when both shafts of the drive differential are at the same speed, the "control differential" does not move) of the rear axle - if the difference in the speed of the two wheels is too high, this differential connected to the centrifugal regulator also turns, with a higher centrifugal force with the arms of this regulator will begin to lift until they are far enough away from each other that the surrounding parts prevent them from further moving away, thereby blocking the entire regulator. This will stop the "control rear differential" from rotating and close the drive differential. CREDIT goes to @JoKo, I just loved his brilliant idea so much that I decided to build a model around it My original design of steering included a gear rack, but it turned out to be inaccurate in practice, and the range of the wheels was greatly limited. Therefore, it was necessary to come up with a new concept - control of the steering connecting rod using a small LA. This solution is features in particular a higher force for controlling the wheels with a reduced engine load, greater steering angle, improved accuracy and protection of the motor in extreme positions thanks to the internal safety element of the used LA. In addition, the entire axle is pendular to achieve better offroad ability. The only pneumatic circuit uses a classic pump+switch combo: A Medium angular motor is used for the rear PTO. Since a variety of implements can be attached to the tractor and there is no space left to build in any speed gearbox I have decided to use not one, but two coupled PTO outputs, which differ from each other in their speeds. The front hydraulics is driven by another Medium angular motor, and sufficient load capacity is ensured by a worm gear. Similar to the front three-point hitch, the rear hydraulics use a worm gear, with the Angular motor replaced by a more powerful Control+ L motor, as heavier equipment is attached to the rear. When talking about lighting - John Deere is based in the US, where red turn signals are common, so it is possible to use the same LEDs for both tail lights and turn signals. Blinking is solved by software changing the intensity, where the direction lights flash in short time intervals with 100% intensity, while the rear lights only shine at half power. A small addition are two glow-in-the-dark stripes on both sides of the machine, which do not require any electric connection. All "autonomous" features are in fact a mere Mindstorms distance sensor. Schematic layout of mechanical functions: Schematic layout of the mechanical functions, including the respective motors (both HUBs are located above the front axle, due to which it is heavily loaded and, together with the powerful drive system, ensure exceptional traction capabilities): Complete tractor chassis: At first glance, it might seem that the shape of the selected tractor is simpler than that of classic tractors, but upon closer observation it becomes clear that even apparently flat surfaces are curved, slanted or otherwise modified. Designing the model is also greatly hampered by the lack of visual material. All searchable photos are just a snapshot of a certain part of a not-so-long video. This video, along with the minimal amount of information published, is the only source from which the LEGO model was designed. The chassis of the production 6R series tractor gave a slight idea of the dimensions, but the body design was purely based on my own experience. Since the cabin will often stand on the ground, I came up with the idea of equipping it with rubber pads, which not only dampen the impact when it is placed, but also provide it with better stability even on uneven surfaces due to higher friction. The interior is equipped with small details, such as an adjustable steering wheel collumn and armrest or a lockable storage space under the folding passenger seat. Various devices can of course be attached to this tractor - here is, for example, Rolland Rollspeed 7136 trailer: To the controlling app - on a mobile device (tablet) the Mindstorms application will be directly connected to one of two HUBs in the model, which will directly control the motors connected to this HUB, while on the other HUB a stored program will be run waiting for the start signals that will be forwarded to it from tablet through the first HUB and their mutual (HUB-to-HUB) communication. And for more convenient control, I also used the Sony Dualshock 4 game controller. Program streamed to HUB 1: 1) Control of rear and direction lights 2) Front axle steering 3) Sending a signal for HUB 2 - turning on the front lights with the brightness value "light brightness" (14) 4) Setting the value of the "sensor" variable needed for its activation/deactivation 5) Forward/backward control along with obstacle detection and emergency stop (15) 6) Sending a signal for HUB 2 – starting the PTO in one way 7) Sending a signal for HUB 2 – starting the PTO in the other way 8) Sending a signal for HUB 2 – starting the pump in one way 9) Sending a signal for HUB 2 – starting the pump in the other way 10) Sending a signal for HUB 2 - lowering the front three-point hitch 11) Sending a signal for HUB 2 – raising the front three-point hitch 12) Sending a signal for HUB 2 - lowering the rear three-point hitch 13) Sending a signal for HUB 2 – raising the rear three-point hitch 14) Setting the value of the "brightness of the lights" variable needed to turn them on/off 15) Setting the value of the "stop" variable for turning on/off the emergency brake Program stored in HUB 2: 1) Signal reception from HUB 1 – turning on/off the front lights 2) Signal reception from HUB 1 – lowering/raising the front three-point hitch 3) Signal reception from HUB 1 – lowering/raising the rear three-point hitch 4) Receiving a signal from HUB 1 – starting the PTO in one or the other direction 5) Receiving a signal from HUB 1 – starting the pump in one direction or the other Some dimensions: Length (without cab/with cab): 360mm/445mm Width (without cabin/with cabin): 180 mm/225 mm Height (without antennas/with antennas): 184 mm/218 mm Wheelbase: 160 mm Wheel track (front/rear axle): 136 mm/136 mm Weight: 2660 g (Without cabin); 3035 g (With cabin) Proportional axle load: Front - 55%; rear - 45% Load capacity of three-point hitches: Front - 626 g; Rear - 565 g (well, that's definitely interesting ) The model consists of a total of 2950 original parts, while I managed to build in the following features: • all-wheel drive (2x Large Angular motor) • automatic rear differential lock • front axle steering (1x C+ L motor) • swinging front axle • front three-point hitch (1x Medium Angular motor) • rear three-point hitch (1x C+ L motor) • auxiliary drive of implements (1x Medium Angular motor) • pneumatic drive of external devices (1x C+ L motor) • front and rear lighting (4 pairs of LED lights) • obstacle detection and automatic braking systém (Distance sensor) • remotely detachable cab with movable interior details • robust bodywork with easy access to control units Link to WIP topic: I hope this post has not somehow exceeded the maximum allowed length or anything like that Thanks for visiting & comments are welcome!

You're right, there are 2 large turntables to allow the axle pendular movement. The photos in my WIP topic don't show the current progress though. How lazy I am when creating progress updates, these usually take me a few months to share Haha, same here. After three years of work and just before finishing it, I managed to get to a field and present my model next to the original Keep going and don't give up!

@Mr Jos Although having pendular axles on such machines in LEGO form might seem like a good idea at first, I believe you'll after some time realize the same thing as I did when building my ROPA Tiger 6s beet harvester with both rear axles equipped with pendular suspension using shock absorbers as well. The thing is that you would desperately need to have the machine perfectly balanced (which is doable), however, when extending the unloading elevator, this balance will be inevitably upset. In this case, I went with one of the axles fixed and the another was left pendular, though you may come up with another solution. The model of mine was narrower (23 studs total / 21 studs wide bodywork), so the width could make difference as well. Are you planning it to be able to transport bricks pretending to be potatoes, as I did with sugarbeet? I'll be definitely watching this model growing carefully

To me those indeed look like 11 studs in diameter. However, I'd rather call the colour bright light orange as you can clearly see a yellow half bush underneath.

@anyUser Thanks mate! That's really great news, thus I don't have to redesign anything and this combination allows me to switch from studless to studded/odd to even easily

Hi everyone, I've been trying to find some info about these 2 older turntable designs: (2855) and (48452) Can I ask, whether someone knows if it's possible to connect these two parts together (in a working way, to create a half-studless turntable)?

My advice would be the same - the default palette level is preset to "beginner", thus many blocks (such as the math ones) are missing.

Yup, the Blue Power version is indeed coloured dark blue & silver whereas ordinary models are blue & white. I have to agree it looks absolutely great! (though it would be even better with rear tractor tyres in the right size...) It would be nice to see more tractors (and other agricultural equipment) in such scale. Haven't you thought of some kind of attachment?

You mean like in the initial idea? Then you would unfortunately get the same effect, only inverted (e.g. instead of two circle steering modes two crab modes).