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JWBDolphins
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Oh, Awesome! - I didn't realize that. A step in the right direction! So its almost as if they want it to be improved upon - just missing a few extras to make that easier. So yeah, probably about time for them to discontinue it!
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I agree with this. As I understand it, PU is a very powerful system......once someone reversed engineered it and actualized its potential. I don't blame LEGO, they're a toy company not a software engineering shop. Its LEGO's proprietary stuff that I don't like. Again, not blaming LEGO for making that choice. As an example, both PF and PU use proprietary connectors. At least with PF they also sold extension cables. You could (*gasp* ) cut the cable in half, attach a more common connector, and introduce any piece of third-party control into the system. You sacrificed a cable, but motors, train motors, lights, etc remain untouched. To do this with PU you have to cut the connector directly off the device. You can always reattach it, but it just isn't clean. I know for PU you can buy a third-party 3D printed extension cable but it would be nice if that came from LEGO directly.
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Can't wait to see it!
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The old Western steam locomotives are my personal favorite type of loco. Those look Great! Thanks for the inspiration!
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What an awesome comparison! - Great Job!!!
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I would agree with Phil B. LEGO LEDs have a Bridge Rectifier built into the PF connector - basically a diamond of diodes that makes sure DC current only flows to their LEDs in the correct polarity regardless the polarity coming into it. If you're using your own LEDs or removed the LEGO LED PF connector, it should be easy enough to add your own Bridge Rectifier so no matter the polarity of C1 and C2 the LED should light.
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That's Awesome! Please keep us updated on your progress!
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I've been looking for a crane for a long time. This is the one!!
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That's Awesome!
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"I've cut it twice and its Still too short" Toastie beat me to it - if you want to use "Train Motor 9V Decorative Side with Closed Hub Points" your options are limited. One reason TO use this piece is it comes in "Light Gray" where the new versions are "Light Bluish Gray" if that's important to your build. I have NOT tried this, but you may able to put a 3L axle on one wheel and a 2L on the other and let them Float between the decorative pieces - but I bet those results wouldn't be satisfactory. So you really have 2 options if you choose to Cut. Drill holes through the Decorative Side Closed Hub Points (I would Definitely NOT do this), or cut an axle to 5.5L. I use a 5.5L Axle with Stop as my guide and cut a longer axle to this length. If LEGO were to ever produce a 5.5L axle, I would replace them with that - but in certain instances I'm good with cutting where LEGO doesn't provide another option. Just a few nods from LEGO to the LEGO Train Community would be nice, but that's Another topic!
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[MOC] Nickel Plate Road S-2 2-8-4 763
JWBDolphins replied to Glenn Holland's topic in LEGO Train Tech
You really have outdone yourself! You wouldn't know that wasn't an O-Gauge engine (train for that matter), even if you looked at it for a while! As I strive to get better, its always good to have markers of what Is possible! -
Agreed, you did a Fantastic job, this is truly Amazing!!!
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A review of the first elements from the FX Track system
JWBDolphins replied to zephyr1934's topic in LEGO Train Tech
In the DCC world you can do something like this: https://www.digitrax.com/media/apps/products/autoreversing/ar1/documents/AR1.pdf Don't think this will work for what you're trying to do now, but the general idea is have some isolated sections of track that the metal wheels will energize when they short the gap which is electronically detected and switches the polarity of track between these isolated sections. Not sure I explained that very well! -
I'm just glad to see new LEGO trains. Do I Love them?, No. Do I Like them?, Yes. For Me a lot of the fun is figuring out ways to improve the places I think LEGO came up short. Just by the nature of it Being LEGO there are trade-offs everywhere so anything I think I can do better I'll give it a shot. That's the fun of LEGO Trains to me. (And now I'll need to figure out how to make a Muppets Train! )
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Thanks for sharing! I bought a used 9V system a few years back and those wires are starting to flake - this will be very useful! And I'll second the BNTECHGO wire, the silicone insulation is very durable, flexible, and easy to work with. I've used their 20 gauge wire to power third-party controls to run both PF and PU motors - works great!