2GodBDGlory

Where are you guys seeing these images? I have taken a short look, but I can't find them. Perhaps we aren't allowed to post the links on here, but I would appreciate it if someone could private message me it. Thanks

Thanks! I am new to using apps in general, so maybe that was an obvious question.

That is great news! I just checked my app, though, and I am still on 3.4.0. Is there any procedure to do to update it?

Buggy This is a very simple, fun little buggy. About this creatio Drive: It could barely be simpler. Two L-motors are directly connected to the rear wheels. It is fast and fun! Steering: There is steering using a Servo motor, a few gears, a rack, and towball links. Suspension: There is an independent soft long travel suspension on the front and a soft long travel live axle on the rear. It used custom shocks using the springs from soft shocks. This thing was super fun to drive. I really better post my video for this one... IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/buggy 1:8 Dodge Viper This car has six RC functions, three working pedals, and some other refinements. Aesthetics: The car has decent looks, largely due to the simplicity of the real Viper's body. There are LED headlights, opening doors which are spring loaded, an opening hood, and an opening trunk. The windshield is made from part of a report cover. The doors can be locked using a Keyfob hidden under the hood with a magnet on the end, which would lock the door when swiped on a certain part of the car. Interior: The car has adjustable seats with seatbelts made from PF wires, an opening glovebox (With a monkey inside-- I wanted to put in a snake, but I couldn't find one!) a working steering wheel, speed indicator, brake pedal, gas pedal, and clutch pedal. There is a detailed dashboard and a fake gearshift and handbrake. Suspension: The car has double wishbone independent suspension on all four wheels, with 3 hard shocks (The grey ones still have hard springs) and rubber bands on the front, and 2 hard shocks on the rear wheels. The suspension sags from the great weight of the car. I might go to torsion bars in the future. Drive: There are 2 XL motors driving the rear wheels of this car, and a coupled PF Servo motor controls the gas pedal, which has speed control ability, as well. It couldn't drive well, though, as the clutch kept coming out. Steering: The car has steering using a PF L-motor through a worm drive. There is Ackermann geometry and a working steering wheel. Clutch: There is a simple clutch using a M-motor. It also has a working pedal. It uses one of the new 20T clutch gears. Unfortunately, it proved to be the (Sadly inevitable for me) weak link in the drivetrain, keeping it from driving happily. Gearbox: There is a six-speed sequential gearbox, using a similar shifter to the one found in MrSmith's 6-speed flat gearbox on Rebrickable. Mine was taller, skinnier, and was more reinforced. It worked pretty well, I must say, and it had a speed indicator, too. Brakes: There were four-wheel disc brakes using a M-motor and a worm drive. It moved a long lever to connect the front and rear brakes. Sadly, the brakes had a negligible effect. Roof: There was a soft top convertible roof (It may be the first soft top in a Technic model!) The frame of the roof consists of a scissorwork of 5L beams, like in some of those old racers sets with slammers. This whole thing is on some long vertical axles, and slides up and folds out the scissorwork using a section of large track that is flexible enough to push both up and out in the space I had. It was driven by an L motor. The soft part was from the other part of my report folder. The roof went up nicely, but the soft part would sadly bunch up on descent. Overall, I think that this car upped my refinement levels, and though it wasn't my most functional car, I am quite pleased with it, especially the roof! There is a YouTube video of it at this link: IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/18-dodge-viper

Well, I am not nearly deep enough into programmable Lego to answer all of those questions, but I am guessing that you will need to ditch the Control+ app, because it allows for essentially no modification. You will likely need to use the Lego Powered Up app, write your own program in the "create" tab, and see about writing code for the readouts as well as the original stuff. With the current setup, the only real feedback I know of is to the controller profile on the remote, but I am far from being an expert.

In the English-speaking world, it is generally associated with the Mercedes-Benz G-Class (Maybe other SUVs as well), but I think that it is a general German word for something along the lines of "off-road vehicle," that Mercedes just decided to apply to its off-roaders.

Thanks!

Nice work! I was once considering building the Supervan 2, because I wanted to pack as many drive motors as possible into a model as small as possible, and the Supervan has plenty of internal space. Your rendition looks far better than mine ever would have!

Well, it is true that I am posting these MOCs fairly quickly, but, as I mentioned at the very top, these are old models of mine, which were previously posted at the now-defunct MocPages. I am really only posting them here so that I can refer to my old stuff, and have it somewhere on the web, and much of the older stuff is not representative of my current skill. I should post some of my more recent models here, though...

Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 Trial Truck It is a bit more complex than my recent trial trucks, as it has a gearbox and a winch, as well as suspension, drive, and steering. Aesthetics: The vehicle looked little like a stock FJ40, but that was fine, as I was copying from a Hot Wheels car I have, which portrayed a modified one. It had LED headlights which could be turned off with a switch to avoid power cut from the battery, an opening hood with a inline 6 piston engine underneath. This engine was originally driven by an extra M-motor, but when I added the L-motor and winch, there wasn't enough room, so the engine sadly isn't driven at all. I had fun making the custom license plate, too. It looked cool and rugged, so I liked it! Winch: The vehicle has a simple winch, driven by a PF L-motor with a 20:1 gear reduction. I never actually used it outside, but it was plenty powerful, and gave me peace of mind, knowing that I could pull the winch whenever traction ran out. Gearbox: The model had a simple 2-speed gearbox. It had 1:2 and 5:4 ratios, and was shifted by a medium motor and a small linear actuator. It had a sliding axle coming from the drive motors, but rather than make the motors slide with it like Sariel has done, I used a CV joint simple for the extendable part. It worked perfectly! The gearbox itself worked quite well, I would say! Drive: The vehicle was driven by 2 XL motors, coupled using knob wheels, through the gearbox, geared down 3:1 in the axles, and then a further 3:1 in the portal axles. It worked well until the knob wheels started wearing down from the strain. I actually went home discouraged when it stopped driving after a while, and attributed the main problem to the knob wheels. However, I think that it might have just been that a front portal axle was falling off (Though that could have just been from the walk home in my backpack) The knob wheels also made an annoying squeaking sound. Steering: Steering was very simple, with just a PF Servo motor on the front axle, driving a rack. Suspension: The suspension was long travel floating axles all around, using long shocks and ball joints, which worked quite well! I was pretty happy with this model, but I think the performance could be a bit better, and the squeaking knob wheels were annoying. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/toyota-fj40-land-cruiser-trial-truck Neon Buggy This is a simple MOC built in less than a day as a break from my supercar-in-progress. It is fast and fun! About this creation This model is driven by two hard-coupled L-motors built into the rear axle geared 3:5, and is steered by a PF Servo motor, which is geared down 3:1 before rotating a 2L beam connected to a 3L beam connected to the steering towball joints. There is simple front independent suspension, and a rear live axle. The suspension was meant to be soft and long travel. The model was a blast to drive outdoors and inside, and totally worth the <2 hours it took me to build it! Images at: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/neon-buggy 1:8 Bugatti Chiron [EDIT: I actually originally planned on posting this model the same day that the Lego 1:8 Chiron was released, but technical difficulties defeated me!] This is a MOC not at all related to the official Lego set. I had hoped to post it before the set came out, but Sunday Mocpages was down, I was gone Monday to Wednesday, and the site was also down Thursday. Anyways, here it is, by far my most advanced supercar yet, with 6 RC functions, 3 manual functions, and 4 Aesthetic functions. About this creation Aesthetics: The model I think had pretty good bodywork, and I think it is among my best yet, though I am no master of aesthetics. The hood could open, and the on-off switch was underneath it, so you could just tap the hood to turn it on or off. The doors opened, and there were automatic locks connected to the handles. The bodywork could also be easily removed by disconnecting about 16 pins, but it was still pretty well connected. The LEDs were built into the chassis so they would not have to be disconnected. The wheels were also pretty cool, as they had custom paper rims, as well as a new brake caliper idea I had. The caliper always stays in the right position due to gravity. The calipers were made from printer labels, which I use for stickers. Interior: This car had a pretty nice interior, with adjustable seats, a working glovebox, a working steering wheel, and a working brake pedal. Suspension: Naturally, the model had 4-wheel independent suspension. It is height adjustable, which I will get to later, and the front axle has 4 hard shocks + rubber bands, and the rear axle has 8 hard shocks + rubber bands, simply because the axle design kept me from putting the shocks anywhere that they would give much hardness. There was camber angle on all four wheels, and castor angle and kingpin inclination on the front axle. Differential lock: The car has a manual rear differential lock, just like the real car [EDIT: I doubt it is actually manual in the real car]. It is controlled by the front lever in the center console, and turns some U-joints which lock the diff. Handbrake: The rear lever on the center console controls a parking brake, or handbrake. It just flips a transmission driving ring on the driveshaft to lock into a 16T gear, which is connected to an 8T gear which is locked, thus locking the drivetrain. Drive: Now into the meaty motorized functions: The car is driven by two XL motors, through the gearbox, through a central differential, to all four wheels. It was also connected to a mini W16 piston engine using some rubber bands, but the rubber bands usually just slipped.Unfortunately, the gearbox was forced to use a chain, which usually broke, preventing the car from really driving. (As usual :( ) Steering: The car was steered by an L motor and a worm reduction. There was Ackermann steering geometry and a working steering wheel. Gearbox: There was a new generation of my 7+R dual clutch sequential gearboxes in this car, now without friction clutches, which slip too easily. It was driven by an L-motor, and had a crude little speed indicator. Brakes: There were functional disk brakes in all wheels. This was powered by an M-motor, and was connected to a brake pedal in the cockpit. Height-adjustable suspension: 2 M-motors (One in each end of the car) geared 24:1 rotated 2L beams to raise and lower the suspension. It was a little weak to raise the car, but was still pretty good. Spoiler: A L-motor could raise the spoiler using a weird mechanism of worm gears and U-joints, but it worked pretty well. The brakes could also pull a string to tilt the spoiler down a bit, but sadly, not very far at all. Speed edition: I made use of the removable bodywork and built a faster chassis, with 2 6XAA battery boxes and 4 XL motors geared 1:3. I think I was too ambitious with this ratio, as it struggled to drive. Overall, I think I succeeded with this model, and I like it a lot. It was a lot of work, and a few functions don't work perfectly, but I think it looks fair and has very good functions. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/18-bugatti-chiron Toyota Supra This is my first 1:10 supercar, with all of my other ones being 1:8, 1:12, or less. It has only three motorized functions, as a result of the decreased size. About this creation This model has working suspension, a piston engine, motorized steering , motorized drive, and a smooth-shifting gearbox. Aesthetics: I think that the car looked cool with the one-piece headlights, but not actually that much like a Supra. I am surprised at how long the car is, but it is scaled correctly! The hood and doors opened, and there is a 2+2 interior. There is a working steering wheel and a gearbox speed indicator, plus a pretend stick shifter. There were also LED headlights. Suspension: It has simple independent double wishbone suspension with 2 hard shocks + rubber band on the rear wheels and one hard shock on the front wheels. Drive: The vehicle used 2 L-motors to drive the rear wheels, which are coupled with a mini inline 6 piston engine. : The vehicle uses an L-motor to steer the front wheels and a steering wheel. Gearbox: There is a 4-speed sequential gearbox of the "One Touch" variety, meaning that one push and release of the gearbox lever will shift exactly one speed up or down. It was inspired by a design by ibessonov on Rebrickable. However, it used an XL motor instead of a Servo motor, but it still tended to return to centre. The car has a big enough trunk that I could fit the whole gearbox into it! The long spring loaded axles coming from the gearbox work the speed indicator in the cabin. Overall, I am pretty happy with this model. It drove quickly and happily, with gear 2 being the best overall, as the motors were a bit strained in gears 3 and 4, though it still drove. The aesthetics, as I said earlier, looked cool but un-Supra-like. Still, for a simple supercar I am happy with this, and I am glad to have learned how to do "One Touch" gearboxes. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/toyota-supra Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Trial Truck Here is my latest Trial Truck-- intended to be simple and tough, and also to have low power consumption for long battery life. About this creation Aesthetics: The model was actually too skinny because of a scaling mistake, but at least it gives me an excuse to build another Jeep in the future-- they are very fun and easy to make! Otherwise, I liked it enough. The doors were removable, as was the hardtop roof. The hood opened, as did the tailgate, which had a lock. The spare tire was located in the back not on the tailgate partly to aid in weight distribution and approach angles (?), and also because of said scaling errors, it was wider than the tailgate. The interior was crude and basic with only some super-simple seats. Drive: The vehicle was driven by an XL motor at a 15:1 ratio. There were no differentials and there were portal axles. It was slow and strong Steering: There was simple steering using a PF M-motor on the axle at a 48:1 ratio. It was not Rack and Pinion Steering, instead using a simple lever Suspension: There was full live-axle suspension using ball joints and long shocks. I cannot figure out how to post the video on here directly, as it will either say "Don't use Applets" or "Don't use frames or iframes", and the HTML thing isn't working, but I can put in the link to be copied and pasted. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/jeep-wrangler-rubicon-trial-truck

Yep, I ordered some from Lego a few weeks back, and they are definitely glossy! Also, notice that the mold is definitely new; if you look at the bottoms of the axle holes, the new ones allow you to see the cross profile, while the old ones only had a semicircular hole.

The trouble with that is that it will no longer fit inside an O-frame, so you would have to get creative with your bracing, and probably accept less strength.

Jeep Hurricane This is a complex model of Jeep's coolest concept vehicle ever, one that few have attempted to make out of Technic. (I saw about four or so other models) It is a super cool vehicle because it can turn on the spot, do four-wheel steering, and crab steering. Mine was intended to replicate the many steering modes. Aesthetics: The model I think looks pretty cool, with dual V8s, rugged Jeep looks, and a cool enough color scheme. It wasn't perfect, though, and the bumper things had to be pushed out too far to allow the steering to work. Suspension: The vehicle had full double, wait no TRIPLE wishbone independent suspension (The third wishbone was added later to increase stability. All wheels had portal axles, as well. (I am not sure whether the real one had these, but in the images I looked at, the universal joints seemed to be a bit above the centers of the wheels) Each wheel had one hard and one soft shock. Drive: 2XL motors drove one differential. Because of the interesting way this vehicle works, with all the steering, I only really needed one differential between the left and right drivetrains. There was also a switch that reversed two wheels on one side to allow for skid steering in the on-the-spot mode. Each wheel also had it's own worm gear reduction. It also drove two V8 piston engines, just like the real vehicle. Sadly, the drivetrain turned out so inefficient that it could barely drive. No illusions of off-road prowess here. Steering: Each axle was normally steered by one M-motor using a clutch gear. These gears allowed the vehicle to synchronize itself when switching steering modes. A PF switch allowed me to invert or turn off the rear M-motor, which allowed me to switch between crab, 4 wheel, and front wheel steering. A L-motor also drove 13L racks using new worm gears which pushed the front and rear steering racks forward, disconnecting them from the pinion gear and bringing the fronts of the wheels inward. If you then switched to skid-steer mode, the vehicle would in theory turn on the spot. Sadly, the vehicle was way too weak, and the wheels didn't turn as far inward as they needed to, so it only worked in theory. Overall, it was a fun model, but performance was terrible, which was sad for a vehicle that looks so cool. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/jeep-hurricane Sequential 7+R Dual Clutch Gearbox with speed indicator This gearbox took me all of two weeks to build, but I think it was worth it! It has seven forward speeds and one reverse speed, and can be controlled with a single PF M-motor. There are also two friction clutches, similar to Sheepo's idea in his superb Porsche. There is a complex speed indicator, as well. It cannot really be shifted while driving (Well, every other speed cannot), but it works pretty well. I made full photo instructions of it, which I will hopefully post soon. I am currently working on another version that is longer and skinnier, so as to more easily fit into models between seats. I will try to walk you through how this works. The M-motor on the top drives a worm gear which rotates two 2L beams. These two beams press first one of the sets of cams, then the other. These cams are connected to levers that push axles in, pressing first the slightly slower clutch in, then the faster one. These 2L beams are connected with a chain to a stepper, so that for every full cycle of each clutch, the stepper will snap the two four-speed gearboxes up a gear. Then it repeats with the clutches, and so on. I hope this makes sense to you! This gearbox shifts well, but it is huge, inefficient, and the friction clutches might be able to slip under torque. Still, I am very happy with it. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/old-7r-dct I originally had made instructions for this model and posted them on MocPages, but with the new rotary shifters, this gearbox is quite obsolete, so I won't bother to post it here. Mclaren P1 This is my latest supercar (Oh wait, this is actually a Hypercar!), a 1:8 Mclaren P1! It has six RC functions in total. There is motorized rear wheel drive with 2 PF XL motors connected to a rear V8 piston engine, front steering with a PF L-motor, two motorized butterfly doors with one PF M-motor each, a retractable spoiler using a M-motor and a small linear actuator, and a 7+R dual clutch sequential gearbox (An overhauled version of my previously posted one) using a fourth M-motor. Aesthetics: This car had some of the best, most complicated bodywork I have ever made, [EDIT: Only because my previous models had been even uglier!] yet I am a bit unhappy with the front view, which doesn't look as cool as the real one. Still, it looked pretty good, especially because I was copying from a beautiful car to begin with! I especially like the back view, with striking taillights on the black body! There was also a nicer interior than usual, with a floor, nice seats, and a working steering wheel which could be adjusted up and down. Doors: The model had two motorized butterfly doors, controlled independently using two M-motors. The motors were geared down 24:1 with a worm gear, passed through two U-joints, and then rotated a 5L half-beam with a 6L link on it, connected to the door. They open pretty nicely, but because of the amount of backlash in the system, they slam shut. Also, the motors can't quite pull the doors all the way in, so a bit of manual work is involved. I was still pretty happy with them. Spoiler: The spoiler was operated using a PF M-motor tucked behind the rear wheels and a small linear actuator. It worked pretty well, but I should have taken it apart and switched the 12T and 20T bevel gears after I saw how slow it was. (The last image there, the bodyless one, is missing the motor and a few gears) Drive: Two XL motors drive a V8 piston engine, which drives the gearbox, which drives the rear wheels. Steering: A L-motor under the hood drives a 8:1 worm gear reduction, which drives the 8T gear that runs the rack. It also ran a steering wheel, which could be adjusted up and down.There was Ackermann geometry. Suspension: The model had full independent double wishbone suspension, with castor angle and kingpin inclination on the front wheels, and camber angle on all wheels. (Kingpin and Camber seem practically the same to me. Camber seems to be the wheels tilting like /=\ or /=\, while kingpin seems to be the steering pivot tilting like/=\ or \=/. Thus, normally, including kingpin will automatically include camber. That, at least, is my understanding. [EDIT: I now know the difference between them!] Each wheel had two hard shocks. I was also happy that the car had a rigid enough frame to compress the suspension from almost anywhere! Gearbox: The gearbox was by far the best part of the vehicle, as it was a super complex 7+R sequential Dual-friction clutch setup, driven by a PF M-motor, with a speed indicator. It worked pretty well, but it was huge, and the friction clutches would often slip (I think I will not use friction clutches if I ever build a similar gearbox)(Which I am quite sure I will) I will post this gearbox separately soon, but it is really just a somewhat similar version of my previously posted one, but with the two 4/3+R gearboxes placed in front of each other instead of beside, making it possible to fit it between the seats. There was a (Too) small suitcase under the hood, as well as an on/off switch for the battery. Overall, I was very pleased with this car, except that it struggled to drive. It looked better than usual, had a strong frame and body, and had many advanced functions and refinements. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/mclaren-p1 Technic 7+R Sequential Dual-clutch gearbox V2 (Still has speed indicator, but that makes too clunky of a name. Oops, my explanation made it clunkier!) When I was trying to put my older 7+R sequential, I found that I couldn't put it behind the seats because it was too long, or between the seats, because it was too wide. Thus, I built a new version of it, with the two separate gearboxes (4 speed and 3+R) placed in front of each other, rather than beside each other, with the friction clutches behind them. It had somewhat different ratios than the old one, but they are pretty similar. If you want to get an understanding of how this gearbox works, take a look at my older one, since I don't feel like typing it all again, and they have pretty much the same working principle. I have not made instructions for this gearbox, but have instead taken extensive pictures, so if you know what you are doing and really want to, you can probably build it. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/old-7r-dct-long-version

Looks great! I'll have to find some time to try building it soon!

I got impatient and added the battery last night. It works great, with significantly better performance than the (likely tired) AAs I was using. Additionally, the camera battery already has a PF plug soldered onto it, so I have a ready-made way to run PF IR receivers from the same power supply! Yes, I may soon be releasing models with 12 RC functions!

Yeah, you don't want it getting halfway through a downshift, realizing that there is now no load, and then shifting up again! The programming would likely be similar to what Sariel did here: http://sariel.pl/2012/02/nxt-automated-gearbox/

Cool to see the theory behind drift cars! I may have to build another one sometime! One thing I did once to lower traction on the tires was to cut an empty toilet paper roll into four quarters, and then put the cardboard around a 43.2 mm tire!

Neat! Using an XL motor would also add a lot more weight on the axle, working somewhat like the flywheel. I just got some Control+ stuff, and I would love to try to make an electronically controlled 8-speed automatic gearbox, using the drive motors current draw as resistance sensors, and a separate motor for shifting. All I need to do is finish my current MOC, learn how to program, and build it... If the programming allows for it.

Wow! That is very original and interesting! The biggest disappointment for me is that one must find room to install a giant "flywheel" for proper shifting, but it is a fascinating idea, which could probably be extended to a four-speed, in exchange for its simplicity! Good work!

I just got my first PU stuff, and early on my to-do list is to try to do a battery mod. I have an old 7.4V battery from a Nikon camera, which I have used many times in the past to power PF models (Even running two buggy motors off it!) It should easily fit inside the battery bay, and I am confident that I can attach the leads fairly easily, but is there any danger that you guys know of in doing this?

Yes, it is definitely a good thing to have variety in sets, but just because Lego is building more cars doesn't necessarily make them boring. Sometimes they are (See the Porsche 911 RSR set), but others are mechanically awesome (see Bugatti Chiron). But I suppose it is hard to put interesting car functions in smaller scale models. With that part count, I would guess 1:10. Does that mean we will get Ferrari-style rims, functionally similar to the Land Rover ones?

I now watched the video. It is quite different from my design, after all! I like the innovation! Perhaps the same shifting technique could be applied to larger linear gearboxes to get three or four speeds?

Interesting. I haven't watched the video yet, but is it working on a similar principle to my previous sliding-worm 3-speed auto? Obviously yours is more complicated, and probably smoother, but is the idea the same?

No, it cannot. My original plan was to hook it up to the steering system such that when you steered, it would unlock the differential, and then reevaluate whether it should be locked or not. I should have mentioned that in the original post...

This is a design I spent a while developing. Open differentials are obviously poor off-road, and limited-slip differentials are fairly challenging to make work reliably. Manually locking differentials are common and reliable, but I thought it would be interesting to go the extra step and create a differential that automatically senses when a slip situation is occurring, and then locks the differential to stop it. This is what I came up with: Yes, it is huge, even when you realize that the whole assembly with the 7x11 frame is not actually part of the lock. Additionally, there is considerable friction, so between these two factors, it is not at all a good candidate for use in MOCs. However, I think it is interesting just as an engineering exercise. The basic working principle is as follows: There is a differential in the center, with the lock, and the two outputs geared to the two wheels. Then, there is a set of two speed-sensing differentials, one on the right, and one on the left. These differentials have an input directly from the drive motor, and an input from one of the half-shafts between the center differential and a wheel. If the half-shaft is spinning at a normal speed, the differential's remaining output rotates, say, clockwise, but if the half-shaft is spinning at double its normal speed, as it would when the wheel is slipping, the differential's remaining output starts to rotate slowly counterclockwise, which then locks the differential. This system is mirrored on each side, to allow it to lock regardless of which wheel is slipping. To continue my previous example, when the output is rotating clockwise, a sort of rotation sensor (using the red 16T gears in the image) prevents the output from doing anything, because if it tried to, it would just stall the drive motor, but when the direction is reversed, the lock is engaged. Unfortunately, although the mechanism was ultimately reliable, it took its time before locking! (I was trying to incorporate it into a model, and to make it lock faster, though still too slowly, I replaced the vertical 8:24 gearing on each side with a 16:16 one), and when reversing, the differential would lock immediately, and then start slipping the 24T clutch gear. As stated earlier, this is NOT a good candidate for inclusion in a model. I was trying, but it was just too inefficient, and provided no real advantage over a manually controlled lock. Still, though, it was a very interesting exercise. There is a video, too