2GodBDGlory

Are there actually plans for a new Buwizz, or is Newest_Tech320 just guessing?

AEV Brute [The AEV Brute is a pickup truck version of the TJ and JK Jeep Wranglers, built by American Expedition Vehicles] This is my latest MOC, built in only two days! It has three L motors driving it, which gave it abundant power! Aesthetics: The vehicle didn't really look too great, but at least it is boxy in real life. I should also say that in some of the images some parts are slightly askew (Like the mudguard in the main image) as the pictures were taken right after some ourdoor off-roading. Drive: 3 L motors under the bed cover drove the four wheels at either a 3:1 ratio or a 9:1 ratio, depending on what speed you were in. All wheels were driven using knob wheels and portal axles. Gearbox: The model had a simple two-speed gearbox controlled using a PF M-motor, a transmission driving ring, and an old differential casing. Suspension: The whole model had long travel, soft live axle suspension, using one hard shock per axle. The position close to the pivot point softened it and increased travel. It was fun and bouncy. (Notice those good ol' dirty tires!) Steering: This model had a basic system using a Servo motor. This model was fun to build, and especially to drive, but it doesn't look too great. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/aev-brute 1:8 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 1LE This is my latest supercar, and my best one, too! It is my second Camaro, and is of the same model, though this one is a convertible, as my last one, though it is way bigger! It has five motorized functions, which I will get to later. But first... Aesthetics: This was a big car, which helps me to include minute detail. I was pretty happy with how it looked, though there was something just a little off with the headlights, which had LEDs. The hood opened and was assisted by a dampened shock absorber, which made it quite satisfying to open and close. The doors had simple locks, similar to what Sheepo has used recently, using a rubber axle joiner and a couple of those pointy pieces. Finally, this model had a first for me, an opening trunk! There was also an interior a bit nicer than my other ones. Convertible Roof: This model had a motorized convertible roof, which used a PF L-motor and a worm gear to operate a four-bar linkage connected to the roof. Steering: There was front wheel steering operated by a PF M-motor through a worm gear. There was Ackermann geometry and a working steering wheel. Drive: The model was driven by two large motors through the rear wheels, with a V8 piston engine. Suspension: The model had full independent suspension with 4 hard shock absorbers in front and 2 in the back (Yes, it looks like there were four in the back, but I disabled two of them after I realized that they collided with the brakes. Because of that, the rear suspension was a little too soft) There was full negative Camber angle, as well. Gearbox: This model had a sequential 6+2R gearbox, made by multiplying a 3+R times a 2 speed (In retrospect, I realize that I was aiming for the 6-speed manual in the real car. I really should have just made it a 4 times 2 (8) speed, as the real car can have an 8 speed auto) It was actually originally built from instructions I found online (Charbel on Rebrickable), so the frame is basically the same. Still, I changed the ratios of the 2 speed so that the working principle is similar to Rage Hobbit's, and changed the shifter, adding a stepper. Thus, it was really quite different. It was shifted using a Servo motor, but because the motor was too weak to gear up, I had to press the remote like 3 times before it would shift, so I probably should have used a regular motor instead. It worked pretty well, though it was a bit unhappy on high gears. Brakes: The model had full disc brakes, driven by a M-motor and some worm gears. It worked decently, definitely better than my Corvette's did. I added fake brake calipers. Overall, I am very happy with this model. It felt substantial, looked good, functioned well, and was more refined than my previous cars. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/chevrolet-camaro-zl1-1le 8070 Supercar full RC Mod After getting my 8070, I decided to do what nobody had ever done before: Mod an 8070. Oh wait, what are you saying? Everybody has already done that? Okay. Still, I felt like trying, and I am pleased with the result. It added motorized drive and steering and a motor to switch the original function selector. Drive was done using a single XL motor placed in front of the piston engine. Sadly, I had to downsize to a V6 to fit it in. Steering was accomplished with a M-motor placed above the steering shaft geared down an extra 3:1 Function switching was done just like a usual four speed sequential gearbox. I used a 24:1 worm gear reduction and another M-motor. Overall, I was quite happy with motorizing it while still keeping all the functionality. Likely this has been done before, but I don't really care. I can't seem to find my image files Mazda MX-5 Miata Aesthetics: The model is pretty ugly. The hood had to be too high because of the steering mechanism, and the rest of it isn't perfect. The rear lights, though, look great, made out of one piece that is absolutely perfect for the real ones!It was interesting to build a red model, but I don't have enough red to do big models yet. Suspension: There is front independent suspension and a rear live axle. Steering: A servo motor geared down 3:1 drives a 2L beam which pushes the 6L links. The white rubber bands on the suspension arms are just there to keep the wheels at the forward end of their backlash freedom. Drive: The model is driven by 3L motors at a 1:5 ratio before the differential. This provided a lot of speed, but I think 3 Ls was too much for one rechargeable battery box, as it would often squeal and turn off for a second. Other than that, it was fun to drive. This model was sorta fun, but ugly and the battery problems were really annoying. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/mazda-mx-5-miata

Ichthia Marauder (Fictional Classic Muscle Car) This was my first real attempt at building a fictional car, and I am pretty pleased with the result. I now present the Ichthia Marauder, a classic muscle car. About this creation This was my first real attempt at building a fictional car, and I am pretty pleased with the result. I now present the Ichthia Marauder, a classic muscle car produced starting in 1969, retired in 1985, and then rebooted in 2003, receiving a major update in 2014. This car was produced by the Ichthia motor company, a Canadian car company operating out of Toronto and specializing in performance cars, including roadsters, muscle cars, and supercars. (Those last two sentences were just a fictional backstory; don't believe it or try searching for it on the internet!) The car has a front V8 engine, front and rear live axles, a four speed manual gearbox, RWD using two PF L-motors, and steering using a PF Servo motor, coupled with a working steering wheel. I was pretty happy with this car, for despite its relative simplicity, it functioned and looked well, and showed me just how satisfying a good working steering wheel can be! Plus, it had five seats! (GASP!) IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/ichthia-marauder Mini Jeep Wrangler Trial Truck This is a Mini Trial truck About this creation This is another older model that I built in November 2017. It is a Trial Truck, but at a small scale. An XL motor drives all four wheels at a 1:13 1/3 gear ratio, achieved through a 1:8 worm gear reduction at the axles, and then a 3:5 reduction in the portal axles. This is a bit of a faster gear reduction than I usually like to use for a Trial truck, but this model has small wheels, meaning more torque, and is lightweight. A M-motor steered the front wheels, and the windshield folds down. I think I actually forgot to mention that there is full pendular suspension! Three outdoor images. Yes, I have video, but no, I cannot post any. Sorry. This model was interesting to build, and performed reasonably well for it's size. Bigger wheels certainly help, though. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/mini-jeep-wrangler-trial-truck Chevrolet Corvette C7 Z06 Convertible Add a comment Zoom in This is a large, RC model of the latest, greatest 'Vette. About this creation Aesthetics: The bodywork of this model was definitely the highlight, though I intended for the functions to supersede it. It was my first black model, and this allowed me to use swoopier panels for the first time! I am super happy with the front looks. The corvette logo looks good to me, and the headlights seem great! The lights were crafted from several white and clear slope bricks, and I really like them. In case some people would have noticed, some of the headlight pieces are not official. You see, my grandma once bought me this clone set that had these strange useless light up pieces. However, the rest of the set was clear! Thus, I use some of these pieces for headlights sometimes because I am willing to sacrifice a models "Purity" for an important enough advantage. Another good example of this is the rims, which are made from a Shreddies box, coloured silver, and covered with packing tape. It looks pretty good, and I will likely use it again in the future. The hood can open to reveal a V8 piston engine. Oh the pain that went into fitting it in! The cockpit had a working steering wheel and a speed indicator for the gearbox. I was a lot less happy with the back. Actually, a lot of the stuff I built near the end was sorta sloppy, as the motorized functions were failing (More on that later) and I was convinced the model would be a failure anyway. Besides, I was excited for my next model! (Finished, except for a few pieces that I ordered and should arrive any day now) Steering: The steering used a M-motor in front of the rear axle, a worm gear, and some rubber bands. The steering wheel worked. There was Ackermann geometry, camber angle, and castor angle. The motor struggled a bit. Drive: Drive used two XL motors behind the rear axle. They drove the gearbox, which drove the rear wheels. A series of U joints took the drive around the gearbox to the piston engine, straight through the cabin! Suspension: All wheels had independent suspension with camber angle. Gearbox: The gearbox was a six-speed servo-controlled sequential gearbox. This would have been great, if it worked. It was working fine in tests, but once I added the driving rings, there was too much friction and it didn't shift well, so I often had to help with the stick in the cockpit. Still, it was a good exercise and was educational. A servo motor used a mechanism to push a gear rack, which pulled a rubber-band pusher thing (If you want to really understand the concept, build Sheepo's four speed gearbox with the free instructions.) which shifted the gears. It also pushed along the gear shift stick, which also indicated the speeds by the paper next to it. Brakes: The vehicle had four wheel disc brakes using rubber axle joiners and a PF M-motor. Sadly, the brakes were super weak, and made virtually no difference at all. Still, they were the most refined brakes of mine in any model to date. Overall, this model was a failure, but after all that work I had to post it. The mechanisms will hopefully be improved and find their way into another model someday, but the front does look pretty good, at least! IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/corvette GMC Sierra 3500 HD This is a fairly small, functional GMC Sierra HD. About this creation This is a relatively small truck, and has several motorized functions. I think it looks quite good, and all the functions work well. Aesthetics: I think the truck looks pretty good, but is pretty boxy, as a truck should be. The front doors open, as does the hood and tailgate. There are LED headlights, and a GMC logo on the front. This is also my first pickup with rear double wheels, and as such has the protrusions coming from the side. Add-ons: I also built two different bed covers, the flat black one, and the big one that looks like an extended cab. Suspension: The vehicle has full live-axle suspension, and it uses flex-axles in the rear as leaf springs. Steering: The model has a Servo-motor attached to the front live axle to steer the wheels. A couple CV joints and a couple gears connect it to the working steering wheel. Drive: The model has four wheel drive and a V8 piston engine driven by two XL motors. Gearbox: The model has a four-speed sequential gearbox controlled by a PF M-motor with a speed indicator. Transfer case: The model has a two-speed transfer case, to give the model four high and four low gears. It is controlled by a PF M-motor Frame: This truck has the best chassis I have ever developed, as I always sorta thought it was pointless. Well, it turns out that there is definitely a point to having a tough frame, so it will likely become my new standard. I was quite happy with this model, which had strong looks and functionality. However, performance left something to be desired. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/gmc-sierra-3500-hd Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 1LE This is another of my old models that I am posting now. It is a model of the high-performance latest-gen Camaro. Aesthetics: This model looked quite good with the pointy nose and cool headlights. The doors could open. There were actually four seats! The wheels were Lego Truck tires, but with K-NEX wheels on them to work as rims. Suspension: This car had a rear live axle and front independent suspension. Steering. There was a M-motor steering the front wheels. There was a working steering wheel. Drive: An XL motor drove the rear wheels. Gearbox: There was a six-speed manual gearbox. Spoiler. The real Camaro does have a spoiler, but I think my retractable spoiler was unrealistic. Still, it was a cool function with a bunch of beams and stuff getting it to work in the small space. Overall, I have built better cars since, but this one was impressive for its good looks and also for the limited motors I had at the time. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/chevrolet-camaro-zl1-1le-old

Dodge RAM Power Wagon Zoom in This is my first large-scale truck, using the wheels from my new 4x4 crawler, and has many functions. About this creation This huge truck was a big first for me: It was my first vehicle with these wheels, and my first vehicle with six RC functions. Two hard-coupled XL motors drove all four wheels. (I made the mistake of gearing it down too much too early, so when the gearbox jammed, the motors broke two 12T bevel gears, and later a knob wheel!) Also, a PF E-motor ran the piston engine. This engine was a Cummins inline 6 turbodiesel, which I learned is not actually in Power Wagons (A 4x4 magazine misled me. Their truck must have had an engine swap). A Servo motor steered the front wheels, but it didn't actually work, as my V2 receiver from the 4x4 Crawler was faulty, and only the blue channel works. Thus, the steering only works in theory. A M-motor also turned the steering wheel. A L-motor controlled Sariel's heavy duty four speed gearbox by pushing the rubber band loaded axles back and forth with 2L beams. This did not always shift well, sadly. A PF M-motor also shifted a two speed transfer case. Another M-motor ran a pneumatic autovalve and compressor, which controlled a small pneumatic cylinder on each axle which worked the differential lock. Finally, a L-motor ran the winch at a 24:1 reduction, and the transfer case provided a neutral for it to work in. Both axles had floating axle suspension and portal axles, and there were LED headlights. All the doors had working locks. The tailgate and hood opened. This was a fairly satisfying model, both huge and complex. Some of the bodywork (ie, the roof) were less than I would want to do, simply because I was running out of pieces. Still, I am happy with this model. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/dodge-ram-power-wagon Subaru WRX STi A small, RC perfomance based Subaru WRX STi About this creation This model is smaller than most of mine, and has a focus on performance. In order to achieve that, it was driven by two L-motors at 1:3 gearing, and steered using a Servo motor. There was no rear suspension, but there was front independent suspension. There were LED headlights and two IR receivers-- simply because only one channel of my V2 receiver works :(. I was pretty happy with my model's looks, and it was nice to build a vehicle that was not grey, for once! The rear wing was probably exaggerated, but I still thought it looked cool. I used the old Model Team wheels both for their small width and in hopes that the old, less rubbery tires would be better for drifting. It drifted well without the body, and I even got it to do donuts once in a while! Performance was naturally worse with the body, but I was still happy with it. I should also mention that I finished this car some time ago and didn't get around to posting it. This means that I am actually nearly done my next big car, which is easily my best ever! IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/subaru-wrx-sti Porsche 911 Carrera S This Technic Supercar, a Porsche 911 Carerra S, has five motorized functions, including a sequential gearbox and brakes. About this creation This supercar is easily my best one yet! It has five motorized functions at a small scale, and a few non-motorized features as well! These nonmotorized functions include full independent suspension using torsion bars and elastics, an opening hood with a knob in the cabin to start it, and opening doors (The driver's door has a lock, but the other side doesn't, as space was tight) There is motorized drive using two PF L-motors, coupled with a Boxer six piston engine, through a central differential for All Wheel Drive. There is steering using a PF M-motor and a worm gear, but I couldn't really attach a working steering wheel in the space I had. A M-motor retracts the rear spoiler using a worm gear and a clutch gear. There are brakes in all four wheels using a PF M-motor, but sadly the brakes were very crude, with just some pieces (Rubber in the rear) pressing on the tire. In the end, I would have to simplify the suspension and drivetrain (Switch to Tatra suspension and RWD) , and simplifying the brakes seemed the better option. Finally, there is a four-speed sequential gearbox controlled using a PF Servo motor. This means that the gearbox is super easy to switch, as you just push the remote lever and it will switch up one speed no matter how long you hold the lever. When you let go of the lever, the Servo returns to the center but does not shift down or up. At this point, you can shift up again, or decide to shift down a speed. The gearbox worked well, though the size kept me from putting in a passenger seat. I will hopefully post the gearbox separately in a few days. I was very happy with this model in most respects, but there were a few problems. First, the looks seemed a bit off. Second, there was only one seat. Third, the suspension was too soft, leading me to not want to use torsion bars in the future. This model was, in my opinion, my best ever, and I am very pleased with the result! IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/porsche-911-carrera-s Four Speed Sequential Servo Gearbox This is the gearbox used in my Porsche 911, and is meant to be very easy to control. About this creation This is a four speed sequential gearbox controlled by a Servo motor. This is probably the very best way to control a multi-speed gearbox in Lego, as you just push the stick on the remote forward and you shift up exactly one speed, then release it and nothing happens as the Servo returns to center. Then you can either shift up or down from there. Another advantage is that it is easy to add an auto-clutch (Attach the clutch directly to the servo motor so that whenever it is not in the center the clutch is disconnected, so when you release the remote, it will reconnect)These are some pictures to help you build one if you want to. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/four-speed-sequential-servo-gearbox Toyota Hilux Trial Truck This truck is easily my best off-road model yet in terms of performance. It has full floating axle suspension using ball joints and large shocks, front wheel steering using a PF L-motor under the hood, and 4WD using an XL motor in each axle. These motors were geared down 3:1 before the portal axles, which had another 3:1 reduction, for 9:1 total reduction. There were LED headlights, and the entire body could easily be taken off to drive with the chassis only. I was pleased with this model's performance, which was naturally much better without the bodywork on. Now, I know that a video is very important for a Trial Truck, and I have one, but I have had no success in posting one. If someone could comment and tell me how to post videos with the simple uploader, I could add video of most of my vehicles I think! IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/toyota-hilux-trial-truck

And the Buwizz has integrated pinholes, so it doesn't really need a bracing like that. The subtractor setup looks impressively compact, though high torque would probably skip the bevel gears.

Good work! You seemed to successfully combine parts from your previous designs to create a smooth, compact gearbox that, with the right reinforcement, could be very usable in a MOC. I find that with Technic progress is often evolutionary, where one makes something, learns from it, makes something better, and continues learning and improving designs. That's why so many of my old models were so pathetic!

I don't think so. (Assuming you were replying to me?) My collection is primarily made of the Mercedes Arocs (~2800 pieces), the Extreme Adventure (~2400 pieces), 9398 (~1300 pieces), 8070 (~1100 pieces), plus three sets around 400 pieces each, and maybe an extra thousand parts from garage sales, Bricklink, and Bricks and Pieces, for a total of approximately 10000 pieces. And yet even with that (relatively) little collection, I have never even gotten close to running out of those pins!

Are you serious about the 50 000 pieces!? I think my collection would be closer to 10 000! Maybe I pay for that by having only one color (LBG) to build big models with...

To access Bricks and Pieces, you need to click on Replacement Parts in the Support section, then click on Buy Bricks. I would agree with others, though, that if you are looking to build a Technic collection, the cheapest way is probably to buy a number of sets, paying attention to which parts are included, to build up a good stock of the more generic pieces and a good number of specialized ones, and then buying whatever pieces you happened to miss out on from Bricklink or Bricks and Pieces. This is the route I took, starting back in late 2015, and it has served me well for MOCing. I think my Technic collection is worth about $2000, and it has everything I need. I do have to take apart all my MOCs after I make them, but that is fine with me.

Okay, that does sound like a fairly reasonable price for a serious fan.

Nice work! Those Vitaras are great cars. I bought a couple a while back to fix up (Mine were badged as a Suzuki Sidekick and a Pontiac Sunrunner), but these rigs just rust out too fast in Canada, so I abandoned them.

I couldn't say. I probably would be with you on sticking to genuine parts--that way, no one can criticize your work by saying "Well, anybody can build stuff like that if they use custom parts!" And then, even if enough people decide that they are willing to use them, 3D printed ones would inevitably be significantly more expensive.

Agreed. Perhaps they will be 4x4s each year, or perhaps not. I suppose we will find out in 2021! That last suggestion sounds wonderful. It could be a successor to the classic Auto Chassis sets, with plenty of technical complexity, with no bodywork driving up costs and hiding the mechanisms. Not that I don't appreciate the 1:8 supercars, though.

The old 14T does have a few more applications than that. I have used doubled ones against a 20T double-bevel gear (It can be (rarely) useful in gearboxes where you need to have a sequence of gears that goes 12-20-14-20, where the 12 and 14 axles need different ratios), and because they are doubled, I would imagine that they are tolerably strong. I imagine they could also work with 36T double-bevel gears easily, and probably other gears with unusual spacing. Ah, the 32 tooth gear. Many are the times when I recline in a leather-backed chair (read: free desk chair that was going to the dump), holding a half-finished gearbox in my hand. Success is near, but yet impossibly far. A single 32-tooth gear, I know, could solve all my problems--worse, it should solve all my problems, but even after a period of forty-four years, this seemingly elementary gear is yet consigned to the the imaginations of Technic builders (and 3D printers). Shaking my head in disgust, I settle down to restart the gearbox, which will now inevitably be far larger and less efficient than it could have been, if only, if only...

You're welcome!

I think that there could be such a part, but it would have the downfall of having to be molded into an axle, since an axle couldn't fit inside of it. Thus, flexibility in attachment would be limited to whatever size axle Lego decided to put it on/in.

As for concerns about strength, I built a copy to test. It could stall a PF L-motor, but not a PF Xl-motor. I modified the original design, as shown here, and now it can stall an XL. The little spacers you can see are cut from the bottom of a 4L ice cream tub, and help keep up tension.

Huh. I have worked on a few servos, with mixed results, but I never tried that. Also, as a side note, it appears that newer servos have some grease on the contacts from the factory, but they are still breaking.

Yeah, it is pretty much useless in practice. I only posted it as a "fun fact" of sorts.

I have observed in the past when fiddling with gears that an axle "meshed" with a 12T gear, in the spot next to it, it is actually possible for the axle to function as a 4-tooth gear with the 12T gear, creating a 1:3 ratio in about the same space as a traditional 8:8 gear setup. Later, when I got my first 28T gears, I found that it can mesh with the axle as well. There may be some spacings in two "dimensions" that work with different gears, but I haven't really looked for them. Of course, most of the time this is impractical, because there is unusually high friction between the axle and the gear, and under torque it will generally skip, but I suppose it might come in handy some day. P.S. I would have put images on here of the concept, but it is a bit of a bother for me, and I suppose you can imagine it yourself.

Okay, that makes sense. I sort of suspected that, but I didn't (and don't) have enough math education yet to understand why.

Wow! That is very clever! I would still expect that traditional 2x4 8-speeds are going to be more practical in MOCs, but I understand that that is not really what you were aiming for, anyway. It is interesting how it adds speeds, rather than multiplying them. I always like seeing interesting gearboxes, so keep up the good work!

A few months ago, I was considering what would happen if you continued a sequence like that to infinity! I figured that, normally, friction would stop the motor immediately, but since torque increases constantly as well, it might be possible for it to run. Is that the basic idea behind this machine?

That was the first thing I tried, but I had trouble. I could get the gear side of the differential nicely reinforced, but the lock side had a relatively long axle before I could brace it, so it could wiggle a bit. I was testing with an XL motor directly attached to the 12T drive gear, and both outputs blocked. Perhaps that is too much torque to expect, but this truck will be very heavy, and I doubt I can do any gearing down after the differential (Planetary hubs won't work, since I am installing disc brakes)

I just got my first couple new 28T differentials. I was quite excited about them, and planned to use one in the rear axle of a truck I am working on. It has a solid rear axle, so width isn't a problem. I had been planning on using the integrated part of the differential with a driving ring for locking, and driving the differential perpendicularly with a 12T gear, but I can't come up with anything that can take high torque without skipping between the 12 and 28T gears. Does anyone have any suggestions? If not, I may just relocate the differential into the frame and run the half-shafts down to the axle, which would allow for easier differential locking. Thanks!