Tatrovak

I built my third version of the BTR-90 again with the Berezhok tower from the BMP 2M, later I will add photos and a description of the changes. For now, I am giving here at least this short demonstration of the driving characteristics.

thank you too, I'm really satisfied with the radar mechanism, it works reliably, it's worse with the blinds, unfortunately one of the pneumatic pistons that open the blinds has a leak, so the system basically doesn't work and I have nothing to replace it.

thank you very much, buwizzys can move it as a whole, but that's enough for them, they run out of oil very quickly in this, I would like one more so that one Buwizz only has two drive motors and not three. You said it beautifully, Milan, thank you

I present to you my next creation, the model of the Soviet special wheeled chassis MAZ 543 M. Of all the Soviet automotive technology, the MAZ 543 M is my favorite, and I have built it many times, but only now did I have enough parts to complete the body, the is, by the way, the central command post of the coastal artillery complex A222 Bereg. Just a very brief history, the MAZ 543 was developed at the Minsk Automobile Plant in 1962, initially as a carrier of the 9K72 strategic missile complex. In 1976, the M version came, it was already widely used by various branches of the armed forces of the Soviet Union, and served as a carrier for dozens of types of superstructures (it can be easily recognized by the fact that it has only one cabin on the left side). The A222 Bereg complex was developed at the SKB-2 plant of the Barikady company in 1987. Due to the political instability after the collapse of the Soviet Union, the complex was adopted into service only in 2003. The A222 bereg artillery complex is intended for coastal defense, destruction of naval and landing forces on approaches to the coast, consists of three main parts: 6-8 artillery vehicles (SDZ), one central command post (CVS), 1-2 support vehicles (MOBD ), all parts are on MAZ 543 M chassis The MAZ 543 M chassis has an 8x8 axle configuration, the first two axles are steered, all four are driven, all 8 wheels are equipped with a central inflation system. The D12-525A engine with a volume of 38.9 liters and an output of 525 horsepower is based on the V2 tank engine family. It can be started with compressed air or an electric starter. The engine is connected to a three-stage hydro-converter automatic transmission with a two-stage reduction gearbox, the wheel hubs have embedded planetary reducers. The weight of the chassis is 19 tons, the load capacity is 22.2 tons. My model weighs 5.1 kg, measures 91 holes in length, 27 holes in height (up to the superstructure ceiling) and 23 holes in width (without rear-view mirrors). It is powered by 6 PF L motors, the steering is controlled by one PF servo, one PF M motor in the engine compartment of the chassis drives a pneumatic pump with an autoswitch that controls the superstructure supports. a similar mechanism located in the front part of the superstructure box controls the blinds of the superstructure's engine compartment. One PF M Motor lifts the platform with antenna and observation equipment through the ridge mechanism, one opens the roof and one rotates with the parabola. As for the interior, unfortunately it is empty, one thing is that I probably wouldn't have enough parts to complete the interior in the form I would imagine, but the weight of the model is already quite large and I wanted to keep a bit of driving characteristics .

So thank you again l, and I fully agree with you, I especially like the design of the cabin and engine compartment on the MAZ 543M, it is brutalist and purposeful and really unique.

Thank you both, gentlemen. Milan, if you're talking about the cabin, I'm glad you noticed, I took care of the cabin and I'm satisfied with it.

This is my latest creation, it is a model of the Soviet off-road truck ZIL 131, specifically in the AMU version. ZIL 131 AMU is a P19 radar antenna vehicle (1RL134 Danube), the vehicle consists of a ZIL 131 chassis with a platform superstructure on which the antenna itself with a rotating mechanism, a folding mast and two gasoline power plants located in the hoods are located. This ZIL is driven by 4 PF L motors, the steering is provided by one PF servo, the supports are controlled pneumatically via a pump with autoswitch which is driven by one PF M motor, this pneumatic system is located in the rear hood, partially under the front hood and partially below the body level, there are others four PF M motors, one rotates the antenna, two drive the raising and unfolding of the antenna and these two functions are decoupled by gear clutches which are controlled by the last PF M motor, this clutch is there to allow the antenna to freely rotate 360 degrees for an unlimited number of times of revolutions. The upper part of the front hood is used as a storage space for the antenna radiators (since they cannot stay in place when the antenna is folded) and the support legs. All functions of the superstructure are controlled purely manually on the real vehicle, but I wanted to improve it a bit, so I motorized them as much as possible.

Thank you both, and Icekusbe, good observation, it is not possible to build a double fishbone axle in that width from original lego parts, I modified a 3L universal joint so that the axle could be narrower.

Thank you very much

Thank you very much to you too, I paid attention to those details and I manage to gradually improve in this regard, but I definitely still have a lot to improve. As I was looking at the photos that I added here today, I noticed things that I had missed before and I will go to solve them.

Thank you very much.

I decided to build the BTR-90 again, the main difference compared to the previous version is that this version is two holes wider than the previous one, besides that, I only improved the details, the propeller drive and the landing doors on the sides of the hull are better solved. The turret is now in the Berezhok versions, which comes from the BMP-2M. And I tried to better document the capabilities of my BTR-90 in videos, since I neglected it in the first version.

I wrote you a private message

As you can see in the first of these videos, I have completed my Tatra 813 in the trailer tractor version with a double cabin (this is the basic model of the Tatra 813 and all other versions are based on this one, and I tend to assemble my 813s accordingly, whenever I improve something first I will build this version, or better said at least a four-door cab and then derive a two-door cab version from it). I subsequently converted it again into an ISO 1C container carrier from the PMP-79 set (field mechanized laundry model 1979).

As for the clearance between the tires and the rest of the model, that is a problem that can be solved, even with certain compromises, the design side of things is worse, from the profile view the 81mm tires from LEGO looked good, but for example when viewed from the front it was evident that the tires are too wide, and it just looked bad.

no, I don't have them, but anyway, they don't fit on the Tatra 813 in terms of design.

Thank you for the compliment

After a long time, I am adding here an update of my Tatra 813, all this time I have been returning to the construction of Tatra 813 again and again (Because the construction of 813 is the reason why I actually assemble LEGO TECHNIC and it is something like the holy grail for me) and I think that I can modesty and with a clear conscience to say that I have made progress. One of the catalysts of this progress was the tires (if anyone is interested, they are Fischertechnik tractor tire 80), they were always a problem for me when building Tatra 813, since LEGO does not offer any that would fit proportionally, I experimented for a while with the tires from set 42129 but in the end I also rejected them because of the width. I've had these tires from Fischertechnik at home for almost a year, but it took me a long time to adjust the size of the entire model so that it fits the tires. The drive train consists of six PF L motors that are coupled 1:1 with the drive shaft, so that the only reduction in engine speed is provided by the L-gearing of the differentials and the planetary reductions, and in this configuration it works with 100 percent reliability. The steering is rack-and-pinion controlled by one PF servomotor (or its Chinese replacement). One PF M motor drives the winch and one PF M motor controls the dozer blade. It is designed so that it can be disconnected and connected as easily as possible, it is held on four pins through the middle of which passes the drive shaft that leads the torque from the engine to the blade, and the drive motor remains inside the Tatra even after the blade is disconnected. I also tried to work on the design of the cabin to make it look as realistic as possible, perhaps the use of parts in DBG color also helped, but olive green would be ideal.

As far as I know, in my country at one time (mainly the turn of the 80s and 90s) there were quite a few of them, I think it was a favorite car, especially among hunters, but I know that, for example, the police also used it, but those cars have almost disappeared, and despite the fact that they are still produced with certain changes and, as far as I know, they can be bought here as new.

I looked at the topic about your Lada, I like the design of your body, at first glance I recognized the Niva in it. As far as my opinion is concerned, I think you definitely did well to throw out the two-speed gearbox, I am an opponent of gearboxes, in my opinion they are just a source of unnecessary mechanical resistance, they are unreliable, increase the weight of the model and take up a lot of space, although I admit that I have this opinion because I don't know how to assemble a good gearbox. Maybe it's just a bit of a shame that you didn't stick to the original, the LADA Niva has independent suspension on the front axle, the rigid axle is only at the back. Anyway, I'm glad that someone from such a distant country as Canada knows a machine from us, from the former Eastern bloc.

I am going to try to build a three-axle chassis with rigid axles, and for the rear two-axle I plan to experiment a bit with a solution other than ball joints, since this solution did not work so well for me there. Were wheel reduction gears used on that model? wheel hubs with planetary or portal reductions?

The middle part of the U-joint is not strengthened by the ball joint in any way, but the ends of the U-joint into which the axles are inserted are tightly surrounded in such, let's call it, shafts that are inside the ball joint, because those U-joints always broke for me just at the ends, they cracked there, and from there the crack always spread to the center, causing the cracked part to split in two. I base this opinion on the fact that I have never had a U-joint fall apart in a ball joint, but maybe it's just my feeling, it's hard to say. I admit that I don't have much experience with the new version of the CV joint, so I can't judge it, and I also admit that when I wrote the previous post, I forgot that they existed, because I admit, they look like they don't fall apart that easily. Of course, I use them as part of wheel hubs with planetary reduction, but I have never used them as joints on the cardan shaft. When they were presented on set 42099, I didn't like two things about them: firstly, the female part (it's in DBG color) has an axle 3 holes long, which didn't suit me because, for example, when used in a double wishbone axle, it forces me to extend it by two holes (I know that in the 42160 set, a newer version was introduced that has an axis one hole shorter, which eliminates the problem) and secondly, the CV-joint itself is larger and requires extra free space around it, so I still got these newer CV-joints did not buy. Are you asking about my experience with Buwizz RC motors?

I'm glad, I appreciate the opportunity to discuss with you. One thing is steering, the other is power transmission, and that, for me, is the weakness of the four-pin mounting of the rigid axle, because it is necessary to use at least two CV joints on the drive shaft, plus some telescopic element, and these are, in my opinion, serious weaknesses of the drive system (of course as long as we are talking about heavy models, and for an idea, this GAZ is still light by my standards). Again, these are the conclusions I came to when building my models, and I admit that rigid axles are not my comfort zone and I will try to experiment more, because, for example, exactly as you write, placing the servomotor on the axle requires a large hole in the frame, even when specifically in the case of my GAZ, the problem is rather that the buwizz has to be higher so that the servomotor has somewhere to move when the axle is sprung, and this limits the interior of the cabin, which doesn't completely correspond to the original (the engine compartment cover is too big). And to complete the idea about power transmission, with an axle with a ball joint, only one CV joint is enough (of course, we do not count the other two necessary if the axle is steered), it is additionally strengthened by the ball joint and can bear a greater load than a solo , and it is excluded that under load it will slide out of the axles where it is stored, and this is especially true if the axle does not have reduction gears in the wheels. Another thing is the larger space required by the arms of the four-pin suspension compared to the ball joint, both sides of which can be incorporated very well into the structure. And in short, it seems to me to be a very simple and effective solution which, if you set the geometry of the axle correctly, basically has no disadvantages compared to the four-pin suspension, since the bar for transverse stabilization is necessary in both cases. Not to talk nonsense, it is not visible on the technical drawings that are available on the Internet, but I always had the feeling when I looked at pictures and videos that the wheels of the front axle on the GAZ 66 had such a very decent negative deflection. It's really a shame, and I doubt that lego will ever bring an update of wheel hubs with planetary reduction, but it doesn't matter, I don't mind moving in gray zones that much.

Thank you for the compliment, I try to be authentic and use original solutions. I take the cutting as a kind of compromise between using only lego parts and creating my own on a 3D printer, although actually, regardless of the cutting, few of my creations are only 100 percent from lego parts, since I use Buwizz and I also use tires mostly from others manufacturers, since with the Lego ones it's a big misery, at least for me.

When I bought 8 pieces of these wheel hubs with a planetary reduction about three years ago, I immediately modified 4 pieces in this way, because from the first moment that those parts were introduced in set 42099, I knew that the parts that I cut off would interfere with the steered axles, and it doesn't matter if it's solid axles, Tatra axles (for which I primarily bought the wheel hubs) or double wishbone. On the other hand, so that I don't just complain about them except for this detail, these wheel hubs were, and still are, a miracle for me, and they moved, especially my folding to a higher level. And as I already mentioned here, I was not happy that I was going to cut into them (especially when I take into account that I paid 10 euros for one at the time, since it was a novelty at the time), but only the modification made them the part that I he wanted. Thanks for the compliment, I probably had the most trouble with the cabin. As for the construction of my front axle, you have to take into account that if you want to use your Toyota FJ40 as an example, first of all there is a huge weight difference between these two models, and regardless of that, I always try to include elements such as is to make the chassis as robust as possible, since I expect that the final model will not be light. This is also reflected in the steering, any attempt to move the servo motor outside the axle would inevitably increase the backlash in the steering, whether I would use a shaft with a cross joint and a telescopic element or a tie rod, especially when steering through a tie rod, then not only steering backlash is reflected in the steering itself, but also the clearance in the bearing of the entire axle, and the heavier the model, the worse it is. I also have doubts about whether the four-link suspension would work in my model, and even if it did, it would certainly not be more robust than what is there now. But I want to say that I hope that nothing I write here is offensive, because I value every advice, and I am very glad that I have someone here to discuss LEGO with. Overall, I think it's mainly about the fact that everyone has a different style of assembly and my front axle is a result of my experience and I'm satisfied with it, and for example the negative deflection of the wheels is a purpose not a consequence, because the real GAZ 66 also has a front axle slight negative deflection of the wheels.