recklessGlitch

Haha! I had prefered yellow. But noooo, white again. Like so many MOC designers on Rebrickable LEGO also just copied (in terms of appearance) Firas' B-Model because they realised it'll sell. And so it will, because people buy what you rub under their nose.

it looks horrible. Those wheels are rediculous. That german youtuber - held der steine - will tear that thing appart. Dissapointing for an original LEGO set. They just try to hop on that train from the Porsche b-model MOC. That stupid thing is even white again, how boring can it be?

well with a symetrical part, like the connector at the end of the actuator's bar - maximum rotational offset would be 90°, so then it's rotated ;) anyway, thanks, that was the information I intended to get.

excuse me ... what? Last Time I checked a full rotation had 360°, so if (accuracy?) it has 71,6° per mm that means 71,6 °/mm / 360 °/rot = 0.2 rot/mm. You calculated with 90° that is a right angle, as in a quarter rotation, even in the US and UK! Anyway, LONG linear actuator 40918c01 measured by manual rotation: 43,75 Rotations = 15750° 64mm = 8studs => 5.5 rot/stud = 0,68 rot/mm 1969 °/stud = 246 °/mm

Display Stand for the LEGO Atreides Royal Ornithopter I usually publish RC - MOC instructions on Rebrickable. Some weeks ago I asked people on rebrickable, what kind of RC conversion they would prefer for the Ornithopter. During that I showed a quick Rendering of a Base for the Thopter. The folks on Rebrickable liked it so much, that I developed a prototype and published BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS Features Ornithopter can be displayed parked (wings folded and landing gear extracted) or flying (wings unfolded, landing gear retracted transparent support contains locking mechanism (optional) for safety but it only takes seconds to unlock and remove the Ornithopter no special modification of the Ornithopter needed desert is mostly tiles, has 2 dunes and a studded area for placement of mini-figures bricks are fairly cheap and widely available most bricks are tan or dark bluish gray, so they can be re-used easily Part prices A lot of people over on rebrickable seem not to care about part prices and availability. I do! You should be able to buy the bricks and a display should not cost as much as the set. Ornithopter color correction - free instructions And since I am on it: I made free instructions (see my MOC) to swap all those red, yellow and orange bricks on the ornithopter into black and gray. And if you want to help me, tell me How you would prefer a motorization (RC MOD): OPTION-A: Internal Motor, just driving the wings (maybe! the landing gear too) Most likely Power Functions (no extendions for Powered Up) battery box external (any) or in the cockpit (buwizz or china-remote) OPTION-B: External Motor inside a Base, driving the wings and also making the ornithopter start and land and also controling the landing gear (Yes, a single motor could do that, I have an idea) OPTION C: Multiple external motors driving the wings, landing gear and moving the ornithopter like it's hovering while flying

@kbalage It's such a shamefull thing - again! TLG didnt manage to do a documentation for 4 years and then finally they do one by ripping you off? And that "documentation" is a pdf document exported from Mircosoft Word (the filename says so, they didn't even manage to change that) The images look like screenshots made directly from the powered up app. Sometimes they are even blury because of a low resolution. They made the app so they should have the original coding block texture assets, no? Probably even as vector graphics. And they use your texts without even asking? You made them up after contacting the LEGO support, if I remember correctly. And these texts were super cool when YOU provided them but they are far from perfect. There are some blocks that I just don't understand what they do from the description (sorry, it helped a lot though) TLG should be more accurate, understandable. It's their bloody software, they should know how it works, no? And they should tell us even more, like which motors work with which coding blocks (Moto speed doesnt work with medium linear motos for example.) What a speed or power of 100 means, etc... What a lousy backyard trash toy facility is LEGO? Oh just the biggest Toy corporation on the damn planet, right? Obviously TLG is run by a bunch of greedy scum bag capitalists, who don't give a crap on hiring people who know what they do and how to produce user friendly. No, judging from the app they hire Amateurs. The coding blocks are "explained" by unreadable, unclear and much too small hieroglyphs in the new coding block design. The app design is rediculous - some interface elemets are so small, I not only have difficulty to read them, but to touch them, and my fingers are rather small! Amateur mistakes!!! There are databases on button sizes or Icon sizes from Google and Apple. Any proper app designer knows that. But no, obviously TLG hires mediocre programmers and amateur graphics designers with no education in interface design or user experience design and probably keep staff to a minimum with no experts, but a bunch of interns researching farting sounds for the powered up app. I would be so embarrassed if I owned TLG. I wonder if you could sue them for IP infringement, since they did use your intellectual property.

I CANNOT READ MY OWN DAMN PROGRAMMING ANYMORE because somebody at LEGO obviously thought they should update the icon designs to even more cryptic and more tiny for no explainable reason instead of spending some time on a goddam manual. on a phone the powered up app is baically unusable because everything has gotten so tiny small that i cannot hit it with my medium sized fingers WTF? Sorry, I am so p*ssed! @HectorMBif you want a physical remote, use the sbrick app and brickcontroller 2 and some old wireless ps or xbox controller. everyone else, either bybricks or other alterntives or just invest into buwizz, the boxes are just better and the people there answer your questions and try to be helpfull and stuff.

Have you seen the new powered up app icons? So now they are hardly readable at all on a phone and we cannot use @kbalage's documentation anymore and its almost impossible to do numerically exact input. This new interface is so bad it's like a 7th grade programming school class made it. WTF!!!! How are we supposed to program that crappy powered up now?

Hi @kbalage you are Balazs, right? I hope what I said about you in my video was correct. I always assumed exactly what you wrote above: In my experience company bosses usually don't understand the SW-development department and avoid the area. So I imagine: some senior (as in old) LEGO people, knowing all about plastic bricks were told: "You need to go 'digital', the kids like it". So they hired some programmers (inhouse or extrenal). And the PU guys had great ideas. Seriously, the hardware upgrade from Power functions shows that somebody wanted to really do it good this time. I have been wating for internal position sensor since mindstorms appeared 20 years ago. But I think the PU devs started playing (my assumptions from the rediculous sounds) and did not focus on the importnt stuff until they ran out of money/time. And since nobody else in Billund understands 'digital', there was nobody to tell them to focus on the important stuff. So you @kbalage made their job by providing the only software documentation I know of. Every developer knows how important that is. Left alone all the other missing stuff I mentioned. And looking at the financial potential of TLG, maybe all it needs is someone there to get aware of their fail. They just need to hire some interaction/product/UX designers to fix it. Oh ... that sounds like me, maybe that's why I think like that. So, @kbalage , what is a LEGO ambassador? PS: just watch your "the end of mindstorms" It would be so nice if they made just a single wholistic system with a single good programming environment and different packages for home and for classrooms... and dump the useless "spike" naming and stick to the established "mindstorms" instead. meh

Wow, I didn't know TLG even externalized the software development. That explains a lot. I didn't even talk about that I had problems with my newer Huawei to get the hub working, while my old samsung just worked... You know, one reason for me to make this video was because I was angry and shocked about how careless and dilettante a million/billion(?)Dollar - well the biggest toy company in the world afaik - handles this. They could be good by just spending a few thousand Euros on some webpage content, giving us the info we need. But NO! We need to pick our info from forums and people calling LEGO and taking apart and measuring their motors. Coincidentally I am just taking lessons to learn UX-Design (User Experience) and TLG is just making about everything wrong they can. I thought everyone was just accepting that - like you said - learning by doing is good (but not that way) I mean Held der Steine is complaining a lot on the bricking level, but he doesn't care much about apps, left alone programming. Thank you so much for letting me know: I am so releaved to hear I am not the only one who sees that. Good thing about capitalism: if I look at toystores today, I see a lot of other brick-companies next to the LEGO boxes. So TLG can either change their mindset, or my children wont even know why I call their favorite building bricks LEGO-Steine...

Happy to hear. Get some light Kit. And just in case: The ECTO-1 is even cooler.

I finally made a video on that. I am so disappointed from LEGO's 1980s attitude. No explainations on the powered up motors, no programming manual. Probably never heared of User Experience Design! The powered up stuff is pretty good, LEGO just don't give a damn on telling us! Anyway: some LEGO bashing and some good hints are in my new DeLorean Video. Especially if you are planning to use a Technic Large motor (99013) with the small hub (88009) becaue the hub sometimes cannot handle the current needed and just freezes or stops working while the motors keep running. Crazy no? Found a simple solution though:

LEGO ain't giving a damn on telling us how their powered up stuff works. And their support is lousy. I made a video partly about that, because the L-Motor and the Powered up hub gave me a real headache when motorizing the 10300 DeLorean. It just stops reating while the Motors keep running! how crazy is that? There is a solution how to use the large motor and the small hub like for the crocodile though. (even for other applications like the DeLorean) I explain it in detail in the video. There are video chapters. Be warned, I am bashing LEGO hard for teir epic fails:

Same problem, got it fixed ... somehow I am using the hub in a motorization of the 10300 DeLorean (https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-142730/). I had the very same problem: After some time the hub stopped reacting while the drive motor kept running, crashing the car... So I tested using a simple big tractor wheel attached to the L-motor driving back and for. Again, same behaviour. Programming / overload Protection??? I also asumed it may be some kind of protection. I tried LEGO's own crocodile control (in the powered up app) and it seemed to work (using a very slow way to change speed) so i experimented with changing my Powered Up programming to react more slowly on input. Indeed that bought me some time but it happened again after a few more seconds. Batteries Philo (https://www.philohome.com/) suggested then to use rechargeable Batteries: The normal throwaway Alkalines deliver less current and their Voltage goes down under pressure. So I started using rechargeable NiMH AAA batteries. Then I tried it again - coincidentially using my old phone (Samsung galaxy s5 android 6) and it worked. Several people have confirmed it. Android Version?? Some time later I used my current phone (Huawei P20 pro, android 10) and the problem appeared again. I swaped phones, S5 works, P20 apperas to work but produces described problem, consistantly. Fazit: So is it just a software problem occuring on certain Phones or is it also a Voltage/Current Problem fixed by new batteries? Using rechargeable Batteries is better any way. The myth of overload Protection: I have just tested another gearing for the DeLorean, more geared up, which also drains more current(ampere) from the motor. Using the buwizz 3.0 to control the motors, there is a built in Ampere-meter: I can see the overload protection kick in at about 1.5 - 2 Ampere (which would be a lot). It happens at around 30% of speed, result: Disabling the motor for a second maybe. After that everything works finr. That is very different behaviour from the behaviour described for the city hub. By the way the city hub does not stall, it keeps working, only it doesn't deliver enough power to really speed up the DeLorean with those gears. So do the motors have an overload protection? Or is it inside the hubs? DeLorean Motorization using the Buwizz 3.0

Wow, happy to hear you like it. Most shots are from a parking lot of a Kaufland Supermarket. At some point the manager came and told us we would actually need a filming permission. But then my girlfriend gave him one of her innocent "I'm a child doctor" smiles and he started talking about how much people like that parking lot for filming. At some point he said "you wouldn't believe it but one film team even wanted to do a fire here!" I almost lost it "Nah", I said ,"we did the scene with the time jump and the fire a few nights ago behind the Tool Store" :D:D:D If you liked that video, what do you think about my driving 1989 batmobile?

Finally, the 2022 LEGO 10300 Back to the Future Time Machine the DeLorean - motorized with powered up ★ Building Instructions on Rebrickable (klick) ★ Features remote controlled motorization - fast driving, 40° steering angle - No scratching gears or rubbing tires Cockpit untouched not flying, but you can still modify it for Back to the future I, II and III version easy to reach Battery box for charging and switching on Off Battery box, Motors and Cable well hidden to not change the looks LED light kit fits in (discount code included) will add Instructions to make your own adapter to power the light kit from the buwizz instead of a seperate battery polygons very close to the movie (not flat as LEGO did it) Multi language instructions: ►english ►deutsch ►italiano ►française ►español ►čeština ►русский The Partfinder: An Inventory of left over parts in all bags to find the without scrubbing through all bags while buildingfor building from scratch Buwizz Profile - my programming for the buwizz included. ★ Details 40° of steering angle with virtual pivot point to not rub against that narrow frame Driven by upgeared large motor No Batteries in the interior, it is still there. Hood is still opening. switch the car on and off and charge from below I added a fix for the gull wing doors to stay up. Also I took the liberty to change the colors of some red/orange/tan bricks that you could see when opening the doors. I will put the bricks needed into the spare parts of the inventory. No instructions for the lights included, but they come with the Light kit. AND: I bought all my light set from Game of Bricks. And (after talking to them) I can give you a discount for a light kit for any of my motorizations. The code is included in the downloads.

Now we're talking!!! Thanks folks :)

Yep, Nobody said the mediums have no position sensor. They do. They just down know where zero is, so you have to find out. Never the less its a pitty buwizz cannot handle them Yeah, okay, that was advertisement, but with some pretty buwizz related content as you can hopefully see by the follow-up discussion. I had wished to have found that info somewhere on the forums BEFORE building my motorization twice and spending hours of searching the problem.

Since it wont fly, how about giving it some motors and drive it at least :D Building instructions on rebrickable

So I Motorized the Delorean 10300 back to the future time machine. Because of the size I went for poered up (smaller Servo options) I tried both: The powered up hub and the Buwizz 3.0 My resume: The small powered up hub cannot handle a large motor for driving, even geared down 3:1! That was a bummer to find out. I settled with a medium motor for driving and a medium linear Motor for steering. Then I went for the Buwizz. And i found out, it cannot control a medium linear motor for centered steering, because, as Buwizz service told me, it has no absolute position. So I had to use a large motor for steering also, but okay. The buwizz still has a problem, that sometimes when finishing the drive mode, it gives a burst to the steering, which may break the mechanism. Be carefull. They promised to solve that with the next firmware update. The buwizz 3.0 is not as programmable as the sbrick, but it has 12V, included batteries and 6 outputs, 4x powered up but also 2x of the power functions. I use one of them to power the LED light kit. But you can also use older motors, like the buggy or chinese large motors, etc. And it should be programmable with the new sbrick app. that would be a great combination for small builds, if also very expensive. If you're interested in the outcome of my time machine: Building instructions on rebrickable

Ahahhhahahhhahahahahhhahahaaaaaaaahhahaha Yeah! Okay guys, I did that. I motorized the 76230 (above) years ago and LEGO could have had a look. I also did the 76240 recently, adding suspension and steering again, It is tricky but totally possible. The interiour is still there, the exterior is fine. I even upgraded the exteriour looks a bit for the 2021 version because I felt like LEGO got it even worse this time! What's going on there in denmark? excuses excuses excuses. Hey LEGO, EXCUSE THIS: Before the set came out, some people even hoped for a retrievable bat pod, but honestly I think that would be nearly impossible and not worth the pain. Like "look, this is the tumbler and now i pull here and there and it falls appart and has no front wheels but here I have a little motorbike" - that's not worth the effort. BUT If I were LEGO I had done a retractable roof/front window mechanism. I know the 76240 pretty well by now and I am sure that could work and it had looked awsome! Anyway, want some RC motor upgrade and a better look? Here you go

This is so crazy guys, rebrickable has been spammed with moc versions of that thing. I counted at least 13 or 14 different ones (not counting multiple versions by the same person) on the first 2 pages of hottest mocs for a week or two. Like there was nothing else left to build from LEGO. Actually that's how I got spoilered that there will be an appearance in the new Bobby Fat series. Darn. Edit: I just looked on rebrickable's hottest mocs again: page 1: 7 page 2: 6 page 3: 5 page 4: 3 thats 20 N1 mocs only there. I think I need to build a Bulldozer or a Pirate ship right now!

full life scale PKE-meter (psychokinetic energy meter) from Ghostbusters Building Instructions on rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-97668 My version of the psychokinetic energy meter as it apeared in Ghostbusters I (1984), Ghostbusters II (1989) and Ghostbusters Afterlife (aka Legacy, 2020/2021) Yup it's that strange detector, that Phoebe finds. from ghostbusters wiki Next to the Proton Packs and the Ghost Traps this is probably the most iconic of Ray's and Egon's devices from Ghostbusters (I don't count Ecto and the Condamnent Unit). I have been making a lot of MOCs lately including some motorized 76204 Batman Tumbler. And as a kid I was such a Ghostbusters nerd that I just have to MOC some of their equipment. I started with the PKE because it's the smallest. Maybe I will do the ghost trap next (maybe even the new RTV). Feature The wings (antennas or whatever they may be) can be flipped out by pulling a small lever at the back. I was done with the handheld scanner and proudly presented it to my wife. Her very first question: "Is there some mechanic to flip out the antennas?" so I had to figure out a way, which was quite complicated because this build is so weired already with studs going in every direction, and the inside looking like knitted rather than plugged. Anyway I found a stable solution. You have to build very carefully and make sure, no bricks are twisted but then it works. I dont yet have all the parts but I did build a test prototype (look at the left half and ignore the colours) to make sure it works while developing the instructions in bricklink studio. LED-light-ready: I developed this, keeping in mind the option to add those tiny LED lights. So I left some spaces behind the clear bricks, for you to be able to add LEDS, and there is a 15% dicount for gameofbricks.eu as usual. AND have a look at my Invisible 10274 Ecto-1 Motorization (Ghostbusters 3 Legacy / Afterlife)

Thank's. Yes, there were some details that I thought they could have done better. Even the tractor wheels they put on now. It was one of the first things I changed on my 2014 one, they look so much better.

I made the 2021 LEGO 76240 Batman Tumbler drive (again) and upgraded the looks to be more real. full remote controlled motorization (drive and steer) independend suspension (front: moving liftarms!) moving front armour plates as in movie retractable roof complete do-over of side armor plates: finaly polygons very close to the movie (not flat as LEGO did it) front gunner seat "hydraulics" finally as in movie winglets fixed on both ends now (no loose parts as from LEGO) Mind the Gap - closed that gap between the rear tires (i think in danish LEGO rhymes on lazy ;) Instructions on rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-95123 I already did this with the 2014 version. Actually it was my first LEGO set in years. But I was never really happy with this. There were still too many flaws (as with the 2021 version) This time i wanted it to look more close to the original, finally. So I upgraded the armour and some other details a bit, to fix LEGO's little flaws. This is the LEGO Tumbler Batmobile, I always wanted.