westphald

Thank you for the responses. Watching how others have their collections sorted and how many drawers they've used, as well as digging through some of the previous posts here, I feel like I'm looking at 2500-3000 unique part types to sort, and then all of the larger items I'll only have one or two of. I've identified how I can fit 1078 drawers, divisible into 3432 separate compartments, on the wall I have above my workspace. I'll probably put some large drawers underneath for overflow, large pieces, MOC's, and such. I think that will be sufficient for a while.

Sorry if this question has already been answered, but with 67 pages of posts and 15 years of history, I don't think I'm going to find a good answer quickly. BrickLink suggests there are 81,448 unique Lego parts (excluding color options, I believe). I'm looking to sort the 30 gallon tubes of Lego (including many Technic) I have into drawers. Anybody have an idea of how many unique Lego parts I'm likely to find (not sorting color) in enough quality that I'll want to dedicate a compartment for? Exclude minifigure storage. I'm interesting in easily locating different types of bricks, plates, tiles, beams, connectors, etc. I'm trying to determine how many drawers, and dividers in each, I can expect to consume. My goal is to maximize drawer size, but want to ensure I can adequately sort by type (again, not sorting by color) with room to grow. Big parts can be a limiting factor, so I'll have to make a SWAG about how much I'll actually be able to divide the drawers.

I know that magnet wire is an option, a decent one for building MOC's, but not great for technic creations that may have pivot points. I'd like to find the thinnest stranded, jacketed wire. It seems that most of the lighting kit manufacturers use very thin jacket 32awg or 36awg wire. Stranded or solid, I haven't figured out yet. I've located some surprisingly thin wire, but nothing down to 0.2mm with a jacket. I'm also trying to figure out what connectors they are using that are small enough to fit through a technic pin.

What 0.2mm wiring are you using? Solid, stranded, what is the guage and jacket? I'm looking to add lighting to a MOC and see that some of the kits use "aviation-grade extremely thin wire" that appears to be thinner than any jacketed 34awg or 36awg I've found. What are the even thinner options you're aware of?

@thor_64, I was taking another look at your design as I continue to work on mine. I didn't appreciate before how much modification you've done to the roller frame and some approaches I would have never considered. Do you have any updates? I like the idea of using a ball-joint for the e-bar mount. Given their friction, I've considered them to be pretty much useless for anything other than robot models until now. My efforts are, so far, just a bunch of good ideas that haven't come together to something that can actually be built. I'm mostly modeling on Mecabricks, so have little idea of how good the designs will be once built.

The second link is 404, but I can navigate the album from the other two. I see what you are doing. Is that going to clear the chassis? Is that setup necessary? I was thinking of just letting the equalizer bar absorb the flex or suspending it from the track frames with a pair of rubber connectors on each end. You've used the rubber connectors on each end, but with a bit more framing than I was thinking. It also occurs to me that the equalizer bar could take the majority of load when the blade is tilted back, so might need to be fairly robust.

I've been working on adding additional rollers and a roller assembly, as well, but with minor bogies and without extending the overall frame. I'm hoping the design I'm working on will also improve roller stability. Unfortunately, I'm having a hard time adding major bogies into the design, as you have. I'm still concerned about the strength and stability of the track tensioning setup. It's so wobbly, I question if it's even a good idea to put more load on it by attaching the front roller assembly to it. Have you made any improvement to that? I'd like to see how you achieve the equalizer bar. I believe @efferman was also working on that.

There are two ways to control motor speed in the Powered Up app. Referencing the LEGO® Powered Up simple code block guide by Racing Brick, you could use any blocks that have either the symbol for motor power or motor speed (tacho motors only). Then, you control the input value (-100 to 100) for a proportional output. For example, to run a motor at full speed when a button is pressed, the button input needs to be multiplied by 100 (button values are 0 or 1), and the result could be fed into a motor control block (see below). If you want it to run at a different speed, adjust the value the button is multiplied by. To go in reverse, negate the number. For inputs that range range from -100 to 100 (such as a slider), you can divide the number before feeding it into the motor control function. Motor power (gauge icon in lower-right corner): Motor speed (upward arrow icon in the lower-right corner):

For those that have replace the manual track tensioning with a shock absorber, have you found that a single sock absorber provides enough tension? Which shock absorber did you use? Any notes, suggestions, wishes you had done something differently?

I do similar with my truck when the automatic locker kicks in. If I'm going around a turn and the outside wheel slips, kicking in the locker, tension builds up in the axle. Going straight doesn't relieve it very fast.

I immediately thought of the GT-R when I saw the wheel arch mounted on the front in the other thread. This thing looks great! I really appreciate the attention to correct function and good performance. I know the Buwizz stuff brings performance to a level you just can't get with authentic Lego parts, but the effort put into the front suspension and steering is awesome. I can't wait to see the instructions and dissect what you've done.

Nice build! I'm always impressed with how clean the exterior can be made. Detail work is not something I excel at. And it seems to move at a decent speed too! I really like the rear suspension idea. I had a similar idea for something I'm working on. Simple and effective. Thank you to whomever originally did that.

I hear you. I'm attempting some 2 and 3 motor drivetrains and slipping is a constant challenge. I really like your build though. It finally gives me a reason to consider buying a Zetros.

Nice, someone got the tires in the correct orientation! Awesome build. I like the drivetrain setup as an alternative to the non-existent Technic limited slip (I've surveyed the options, none satisfy). I also like the idea of driving the differential from the end rather than the ring gear. I might have to use that somewhere. That smooth body and chop top look make me think it should be dropped to the ground and geared up. I wonder how hard it would be to suck in the wheels and make it a street ride. Given that the two drivetrains should operate at near identical RPM when there is full traction, I wonder if bridging them together at the motors makes sense. Then, it would be possible to add a third motor. Either that, or, add a differential between the two drivetrains and power it by a third motor. I don't see room for it in this model, but could be useful where more power is desired.

Anyone figure out a better solution for the idler slide? The rack is a nice setup, and it's easy to replace the worm gear with a shock absorber, but it's not very sturdy. Lateral movement in particular could be a concern if you want to drop the idler sprocket to the ground (not for most, but I plan on putting mine to work). Might even be a reason TLG lifted it. Really, I have reason to open up the center some more. I could probably raise the rack up 1L, but then it's exposed to the world even more. I'm hopeful someone has some insight about sturdy slide mechanisms.