aFrInaTi0n

Again I am very irritated by design decisions... Why is there only support for DualShock and XBOX controllers?! Android Game Controller Api Docs: https://developer.android.com/develop/ui/views/touch-and-input/game-controllers Appli IPhone Game Controller Api docs: https://developer.apple.com/documentation/gamecontroller/ As far as I know, both are generic implementations which should work for all input devices which report themselves as controllers to the framework API. So question is: If generic BT Controller support is a possibility on both platforms - why is the Buwizz App not offering generic BT Input support? Also will it be delivered later on & if so whats the ETA for that? Follow up question: What about the other Features from the (stopped pipeline because of BT stack revamping needed..) - when can for e.g. a crucially needed Failsave Feature may arrive? Where is the already promised transparency to be naturally lived by Fortronik after the blogpost of being very sorry about not giving any updates for over 1y?

@ZENE They have their R&D, you have yours. See it that way: No direct competitor for you yet :D Edit: Shall I add your products aswell to this threads overview? I am happy to do so, as you also have metal parts used - expect that to happen at the weekend..

Gave them the exact same idea of combining metal / ballbeared wheelhubs with replicas of the joints with an axle at one side..

Quick Update: Metal Technic Part has a voting ongoing for the community deciding on their next products! Also they are open for suggestions for other parts not listed! So feel free to attend! via https://metal-technic-parts.com/ (or https://app.traxoft.com/viewer/kS58KNHPf4dE4oABeUHGfXC3G8P2/MyTcABsiCqDl1iKwDbKW to see the form in full page..)

As I would have read all the pages here... can't be asked for that :P

Btw as the battery has a 5C rating, it can stand up to 5x the current of its capacity (4.4A as peak for short periods from the 11.1V/880mAh - so this "per one hour" would also be decreased by /5) - This can be seen as the overall limit of the battery to supply power to the ports (minus currents for the PCB and its ICs itself). So this explains why the limits for the channels are kind of total BS, as they are suggesting all the channels can supply currents up to their per-channel limits - but the overall limit of the unit is not really part of the considerations imho.. Just think of two Buggy Motors pulling nearly 2A and a Servo pulling another 500 at a small peak - this may lead to shutdowns of the Buwizz already as it is exceeding the batts limit by 100mAh already.. So all the shutdown from before the new / adjustable current limits are from poor calculations / leaving not enough current for the PCB going blackout in high current situations (besides thermal reasons for single channels' IC being shut down).

From my exp with chinese 3rd party XLs is, those are not having huge peak currents... more like being below 1A even under pressure... So as the others stated it could be a rough fit with 2x XL motors not exceeding the current limit of one PF port at the Buwizz.

Interesting, crawlers found a shop page which seems to not be listed for the public: https://buwizz.com/shop/buwizz-3-0-pro-replacement-battery/ Whats the expected price of the batt alone? 5€ + shipping? Fortronik and their products / services are really getting worse and worse reputition... Charging overpriced 200 € for one unit Doing advertisments with wrong capacities and also false statements of advertising free battery replacements Delivering shitty software and bad support for this (see the tumbleweed rolling over the screen in the blogs) Ongoingly giving promises for new features which are not hold / real bad communication with the community for updates Even trying to rip out money for replacement-batteries I find their public relations sooooooo embarrassing, seeing them doing bloody videos with super sports cars and other shit to waste plenty of money with to have a personal good life experience instead of working hard on their unfulfilled promises.. Edit: So I call Fortronik intentional liars to make it clear!

@MAB I agree. Also the forums are open for third party products (having a metal parts thread in the technics forum, approved by mods/admins - but asked before if it will be ok for their platform..). Both sides should just calm down and respect the other, I guess we would all benefit from it.

I still can't really understand in general why people are getting mad at each other for having different opinions. Even if one would state "I am the bad guy buying all unlinced models to feed my pure evilness" - why should I personally get mad? It's an issue between different companies. It makes as much sense to discuss reasons for different opinion like it does for religions, parenting of children, having a dog, etc.. So in difference to my own opinion of buying 3rd party brands: It is very nice that the Lego company is investing in the community to get people with the same hobby together. Even if it can be seen as PR, it has the good outcome of allowing people to share their creations and enjoy others' builds. I would wish that the other major competitor brands would invest a little more in that regard.

If you just want to have a on/off functionality you may want to go with some wifi smart plug like Shelly Plug Plus or from other brands (Tuya integrations are widely spread), this then powering some USB charger, finally powering your lightkit. A Shelly Plug S Plus costs ~25 € each here in Germany, recently bought a 4x set of some Tuya-compatible no-names from Amazon for ~38€ total.

Was a silent reader for some pages, still can't really see the benefit of this thread as some persons seems to have issues with others having not the same opinions.. I can't really understand what the efforts outcome shall be.. convincing other people of one's opinion? Chances for that happening are tiny to non existent. To add to the initial topic / question: I am mainly using GoBricks parts and others from reliable brands with GoBricks quality (CaDA, Panlos, etc). Reasons for me are: There are auch more color variants of parts and GoBricks for e.g. is on the same quality level as Lego, especially their very strong frictioned pins, loving them! (Lego purists would argument "no good molds being used", I need those for RC projects to not fall apart easily). Also for electronic components I am going with GoBricks / other 3rd party - as Lego discontinued those products (esp speaking of the PF buggy motors and PF Servos) - won't pay moonprices for used gear (keep in mind, the motors are brushed and the servos pcbs may also suffer over time). Besides pure parts I am with the opinion that copycats are a bad thing and I would like to see the other brands getting more into the MOC scene and then having a good attribution-attitude towards the creator. For somebody having another opinion: It is ok for me!

Nice idea and also they are looking great, thanks for sharing!

@NoEXIST There are no more "normal,fast, ludicrous" modes for BW3, basically you are constantly on the ludicrous. I reckon they "accidentally" weren't aware of how to calculate it correctly when the cells are put in serial instead of parallel.. 🤷‍♂️ btw even then it would be 2400, not 2300..

It adds to my assumption of most of their advertisments just being "a little overconfident". Same for the "we will do better communications for future app updates" thingy after the latest update going into silent mode again.. 🤷‍♂️

Interested as hell and already waiting for yeaars for someone doing such! I am at work currently and can't read through, but seems like it shall form one unit housing the receiver and the batteries - personal wish for those optionally being able to be used as two separate units it would be from me. Wishing all the best for this project getting a success!

Thanks for your informative post, Its excellent! 👍 Also I am one of Zene's already happy customers with one order of two units of the 1st version differential. They are a high quality product and I would give my personal recommendation also for the very good service from ZENE - my pre-order questions were answered fastly and the sipping was also in the to-be-expected shippingtimes from CN Mainland to Germany. All the best for the future of ZANA and their products which are a great addition and filling a yet-unfilled gap to the Brickhobby - at least for me. I also hope the admins will understand the topic for informative reasons here for the interested people. For argumentations "isn't it somehow advertisment" I would answer - "I see it as an offer from the vendor to get as close to their community of customers as they can to make them happy and create good products". Another question I have: As a 3D Model STL may already exist - is it planned to release a digital model of the differential (creates potential for allowing easy-copying for other parties, so I could understand that may be a reason the answer being "no")?

I tested 2 days ago the Brick Controller app (last updated on 07.01.) and it was working with the 3.18 firmware version (think the current beta ha no higher firmware than that, so currently both can be used in parallel with the same firmware).

I think you want to get into the beta program again, right? My recommendation: Try uninstalling the app, go to the playstore, navigate to buwizz, shortly unsubsribe from their beta program offer in the details and re-apply. afterwards give it a install and check the version and report back here with the version it told you has been installed.

Nope, just like other cheap china 3rd party ones full 90° turn possible with them. And I am also curious if those knob gears will easily be shattered or if they withstand the high rpm scenario... At least they should not skip - until they maybe break... 🙄

Yepp

Limited by the length of the carbion axles - as having a set of 4,5,6,7,8,9,10,12 and 16 axles as possible ones to use Could also be replaced with regular 3. plastic piece to hold them together.. but metal > plastic :) Haha, doing all things right in term of the yt algorithm I would say :D Not sure if that would would out for the motors -> the (knob) gears are creating the huge need for an additional stud to be placed under - trying to put the drivetrain between two buggy motors wouldn't work in that arrangement.. Steeper servro would then be also on ground level with its casing,but worth a check - I had a similar issue with another MOC of mine, where the servo was technically blocking a panel, I think this could also be the case here. Same here, after I have seen your post I am still curius :D

Hi folks, I started working on a little driftracer and would like to share it to you to get your thoughts. Primary intention for building was putting "doubledosed power" (2x buggymotors, 2x Buwizz) in a configuration which is compact, has the weight positioned as low as possible & also being balanced for having a symetrical design. It's my 1st 4WD MOC to take shape ever - so be easy with me.. Background Some days ago @FriedlS posted a thread with another of his great drift chassis designs (Another 4WD Drift Chassis Project) and it got me very curious about the steering-arm approach he implemented in his chassis (with 87408 as the arms) as it allows with little change to create an arm capable of holding the old u joints (62520c01) OR their metal 3rd party replacements - as this was the missing piece in my head to start a RC MOC projecton on 4 wheels enforced with ballbeared 3rd party liftarms and also using carbon axles for the drivetrain. Features 4WD 2x Buwizz3 mountable (or other 3rd party 8x4 battery boxes) 2x Buggy Motor Enforced drivetrain Ballbeared special parts TF Engineerings "Flange Bearings" (Linkie) by @Bensch55 Metal Technic Parts' "Aluminium Metal Beam Bearing Block liftarm" (Linkie) Carbon Axles Pro Very compact and powerful design Balanced and optimized for low position of weight Contra No suspension No caster angle Nearly no ground clearance & high risk of damaging the Buwizz bottoms easily (if Zero reads: Is Fortronik selling bottom housings for BW3 separately in batches of >4?! ) Rear buggy motor may just allow hatchback types or oder body types which would compensate it Drivetrain The drivetrain is pretty simple and my hopes are it can withstand plenty of forces to be applied to it. Drivetrain + Motors + Servo alignment: Removed easy-access bottom panel (color-coding: blue 5l liftarms = MTP ballbeared; red 3l liftarm = TF ballbeared; lime u joints = metal replacements) Current Status Studio .io file created Protorype built 3rd party Servo was faulty and killed itself (yeah yeah, I know I know - you get what you pay for ) and needs to be replaced + weather conditions need to get better (currently raining on a daily basis..) or me having enough energy to use some local parking deck at night to have dry conditions.. Renders All renders can be found here in higher quality: https://bricksafe.com/pages/aFrInaTi0n/enforced-4wd-driftchassis Plain finished bottom for maximum downforce (just kidding, won't really be a thing at that scale / low speed) & to safe the drivetrain from dust or stones to get into the way All the ground clearance which can be expected from this with regular 44309 Wheels.. (1-2mm maximum) As I was already working in Studio I was checking some body options - so here is what I came up with after little rough hammering for some front of some little hatchback racing beast: Real Pictures to be added Videos In the last days I haven't had any possibility to get to a place with good clean and dry conditions - so for now just a little dryrun burst test for showing of the theoretical capabilities (broken servo still in, so couldn't show the steering): So I am happy to get feedback and opinions. I will update the thread with more testing results & hopefully some good footage of it too!

Meeeeh, 3rd party components... should have tested the servo before putting it in - it was oszilating at the 0° resting position and it warmed up pretty heavy... so I need to unbuild the front -> I may directly go for PU motor to have analogue input... Edit: Cleared out pictures as I created my own thread for my chassis

Same guess here - but the question is if my bet "pure (doubledosed) buggy power" will work with currently having no caster angle - fear is the answer may be "no".. but I guess a testdrive shall answer my questions.. Maybe doing this tomorrow.. I guess the Buwizz can' be placed any lower... 🤔