New_User

Thanks for the suggestion. Have tried swapping all 4 tyres around and from inside to outside, symptom persist, there is now two tyres damaged on both left and right side. Noted on that. Admin please feel free to move the topic to the correct channel. Bought this set because of the hub, and Lego gave me the impression that we finally have the right wheel hub for a RC. 5282 motor's no load speed at high-speed output axle is around 1,700 r.p.m., with direct connection to the differential, maximum revolution to the wheel hub is going to be way less than 1,000 r.p.m., probably this is too fast for even Lego's own 5282 motor. The front hubs are more resistive than the rears when the hub's input center axis is offset from the differential's output center axis, and this is made worse when it's steered. If there is a way to change the geometry of the connection between the front wheels and the suspension linkages, at least further damage to the tyres can be avoided.

This has had shopping, and school runs within building's concrete and tiles flooring only. Never been outdoor as I am aware Lego is not meant to be played outdoor.

My apologies this is not part of the thread specified for 42160. I actually intended to have a thread more towards the wheel hub and I understand 42160 is not the only model using this specific wheel hub, and the linkage and wheel clearance is most likely due to the freeplay of the wheel hub. The model is driven by 4 units of 5292 motors. From my observation, the clearance has been gradually decreasing, which is inversely proportional to the freeplay of the wheel hubs. Thanks for the suggestion. Never thought of this, going to give it a try. Not using the WD-40 anti-rust spray, it's bad for ABS, tried PTFE paste, noticeably decreased resistance. Below are photos of the tyres with worn sidewall and more close-up view of the hub :

The hubs as per title are having freeplay to the extend the steering linkages having too little clearance from the front tyres. This subsequently causes the steering linkages rubbing against the sidewall of the front tyres especially when the wheels are being steered. The rear part of the steering linkage along with the axle towball constantly getting dislodged from Block 2X2, #1 (72008), I have lost one towball and one link. I'd appreciate to hear suggestion of countermeasure.

Seems like that 4 L motors managed to rip the axle

No fake V8 this this time?

Well, for connection of Lego PF motors to the ESC, you only need the C1 and the C2 from the Lego PF to the positive and negative motor output of the ESC, simple as that. ESC (electronic speed control) is self explanatory, to regulate or control the speed of motor. The battery connects to ESC and the ESC to motor, ESC also sends signal to the RC receiver. Let's try to stay within the topic, if you need more information on using custom RC components on Lego, you may refer here and here. Geekservo I'm using, it's a 3rd party servo, very minor alteration is required to integrate into this MOC. You may use Lego's servo, the connection is the same as other Lego PF motors, with the exemption you need to supply constant power to the 0V and 9V (7.4V to 11.1V would work too).

Thank You for sharing @SilenWin. Trying to adopt your planetary drive to the wheel hub but it seems the link to the LDD file is broken. Would you mind to share again?

RS380 motor and those bigger ones are not lightweight and these motors are only threaded at the front end, not the back. Maybe we should also look into how to support the back end of the motor itself instead of letting the weight of the motor stressing the frontal mount.

It will not work, and that is why we have slip ring to transmit power. It will only work with an exemption, hose connected to a freely rotating barb or connector, and this is limited to one hose.

If there is a way we can transmit electrical power from the battery box from the upper super structure to the base thru the turn table, we can have infinite rotating structure and at the same time powering the entire vehicle by using only 1 battery box. The only thing I can think of is, integration of slip ring, probably 2 channel.

Buwizz 2.0 specified 4A per channel, but I don't think 4A per channel for 4 channels concurrently. 4A per channel, very likely one channel at a time, they did not indicate this on the specification. There is reason why it can't run more than 1 buggy motor concurrently at ludicrous mode. Buggy motor stall current is only 3.2A according to Philo. Buwizz to me, it's only a 2S lipo bettery (7.4V) to motor drivers thru voltage boost, that's is all I see plus it's not the most cost effective solution for RC. The only positive side I see using buwizz is, ease of integration, and more Lego-ish. With higher ratio of reduction, those motors will draw lower current than direct drive, thus, I don't see any problem. Direct drive with these motors are not recommended. The inner motor, as suggested, is of a lower turn number, meaning it's a high speed high power motor, the efficiency at low speed is very poor especially when the vehicle is heavy, adding resistance to the motor to run at lower torque range (low speed). If you're to have direct drive, it's more sensible to use motor with higher turn number, which translates to low speed high torque motor, in another word, stock Lego motor.

This is the ESC The 3rd party servo motor I'm using to connect directly to the RC receiver on the 1st channel The transmitter The receiver And the DIY MOD cable to connect the PF L and M motors to the ESC

I have 7 pcs of the Cada Pro L (the squarish boxy one) with 4 of it on this. 4 identical motors connected to 10A ESC. Stall current for these motors is 2.5A as per the manufacturer claimed, therefore 10A ESC is good enough for 4 of these motors based on the stall current. The inner core motor is of lower turn number than the Lego PF L, thus it has higher speed but lower torque at lower rev range, therefore, without reduction, it's not the ideal motor especially when the vehicle has higher mass. The motors gets relatively hot for the thermistor within due to higher current, the motor will trip before the limit of the ESC. Even with 4 units of these motors, when accelerating, the motors are working hard, which means the current draw is high and eventually gets hot and trip the thermistor. For heavy vehicle, I'd stick to motor with higher turn number (preferable Lego stock L motor).

Made one with custom RC components which consist of 2x3S Lipo, 10A ESC, and chinese RC transmitter and receiver. The chinese Cada Pro L motor is lacking the low range torque, it's not ideal for vehicle of this weight. Using non Lego servo-motor (GeekServo). Interestingly, the weight distribution of the vehicle is near perfect 50:50. Thank You @Didumos69 for the remarkable design.