Methes

I'm using the Beta app for controller support and tried hooking up a GUI button press to controller button press. All my selection in app for a controller button press shows are two sliders - one for drive, second for steering (that I have hooked up with joysticks). Cannot select any button to turn on the lights of the vehicle. Am I doing something wrong? https://imgur.com/asKjQ0X[/img] https://imgur.com/9kIJTv7[/img] Edit: found out buttons are not supported yet in Beta :/

Regarding the motor spinning bug after exiting a profile: I have not found a reproducible way yet but once it happens, I can always trigger it by 1) exiting a profile to app menu. The motor strongly spins to a certain position. 2) re-entering a profile. The motor strongly spins to center of previously calibrated position. Safe way to save your gears from getting broken is: 1) never exit a profile to get to menu, better kill the whole app and start it again. 2) always calibrate steering first before launching a profile. I wanted to get it on video inside but after restarting both Buwizz and app it's gone again. What preceded was steering port not responding after starting Buwizz and app so I had to switch ports and set steering again. That happens randomly as well and fixes itself after some restarts (probably). Not sure if it's connected though.

I've noticed you have both axles connected without a center diff. Doesn't that cause issues on hard surfaces or especially when climbing over bigger obstacles? I've tried several times to make a 4WD with axles connected but they always had performance issues and my last offroader even bent a few teeth of the red differential after trying to climb on a matress. Front wheels moved up while rear wheels stayed almost on the spot. Now I usually resort to one motor powering the front axle and second motor powering the rear axle. Has less power while climbing but no issues with parts broken.

Fingers crossed for both functioning update of BC2 for new Buwizz API as well as faster response time with the new Bluetooth protocol.

Well, I'd try them if I had 4 Buwizz motors and 2 3.0 units, but I don't ;). How is two motors with different RPM coupled different from lets say motor hooked to more gears? Basically the slower motor works as additional friction for the faster motor. One motor drives slightly uphill while the other one downhill.

After two Buwizz motors geared down 11 times bent two teeth of my new red diffential (yes, the 12 tooth gear bent two teeth of the differential, it didn't slip) in my 4x4 offroader I've been tinkering with the idea of powering each wheel by separate motor. I could power rear wheels by two buwizz motors and front wheels by L motors. Buwizz geared down to 4.167 is slightly slower than L motor. I assume the L motors will just act like they have constant load due to being slowed down by the slight RPM difference. Is it a really bad idea? Basically this - with no coupling Buwizz runs at 0.22A, L motor at 0.4A. After coupling Buwizz drops to 0.18A, L motor to 0.7A.

Nice, good points, thanks for your reply. Given the terrain we have around our house (mostly flat, no difficult terrain, at most gravel road) and the speed of our walks it's more of a stop and go movement. With the trophy truck I usually ended up consuming 0.5A at both motors on average, nothing huge. With breaks the battery might even keep almost full charge.

Is Buwizz 3 capable of charging and running at the same time? My trophy truck runs quite well on our walks with kids and is capable of driving ~2.6km distance at ~1 hour runtime before running out of juice. That's with 2 Buwizz motors. It's possible to create custom LEGO compatible powerbank with around 30Wh capacity and same size/weight as the Buwizz unit. Question is, can Buwizz 3 run at the same time as being charged, extending the play time? Not every electronic device can do so. When plugged in the diode blinks, it does as well when turning the unit on but stops once you connect to the app, possibly because of override of LED color. Has anyone tried?

Thanks, that's the word I was looking for.

Different topic - how do you maintain your Buwizz motors? So far I've used them only in outside vehicles so I make sure they're covered up to protect them from dust and road garbage, ideally putting them inside the vehicle and deliver power to wheels via drivetrain. That means using gears, joints and losing power on all of that. Direct drive would be best but also expose the motors more. Also after a few hours of usage I see dried up something, probably motor oil, around the red axle holes I have to wipe off. Do you dismantle the motors, clean them and oil them up? Or do you just not care and use direct drive right at the wheels and the ground?

I haven't had issues so far. Might because of two reasons: 1) I don't do sudden changes of motor speed to avoid BW3 shutdown so the joints take a lot less stress 2) Rear axle is dragged with no joints so maybe it takes most of the stress instead of front axle.

My second MOC with Buwizz has been this Trophy Truck and it's a blast to play with. All I have to do is make sure I don't make sudden high changes of motor speed and the BW3 doesn't shut down. If it does, I carry around a powerbank + cable to reset it. What worked best for me regarding steering was using a custom exponential setup allowing me to make very small corrections when going straight or large turns at the edges of slider. Even going full speed for a while doesn't shut the BW3 down, although with the car going ~12km/h I can't let it go that fast too long cause it gets too far. If only the BC2 app had not 250ms delay between controller and motors. You just can't drive fast cars with that. Looking forward to the update though!

Does anybody else have latency using Buwizz 3? I have 200-250ms latency between moving a joystick of PS4 Dualshock 4 controller and motors connected to Buwizz 3. I'm running BC2 on Pixel 4a. When my car goes 12km/h those 250ms can mean a lot.

That was my thinking too, especially the steering linkage. So I've tried creating very simple chassis with steering locked by a liftarm to rule out movement of steering linkage. It still had the same issues. I even tried pushing an axle through the hub and wheel with no effect. Connecting the axles (and thus defeating the point of the hubs) disabled toe in/out but does not negate friction of course. I might be out of luck using the hubs with larger wheels then. Will try using smaller ones on some sports car in the future. [/img]

Hey everyone, first post! So I've enjoyed creating MOC cars, mainly experimenting with creating suspension with the parts I have available. I have the Ford Raptor set that comes with wheel hub 23801+92909 and right after building the set I've found the quality of this wheel hub is terrible. It has enormous inner friction and mainly wheels suffer from serious toe in and toe out. This leads to high friction and the more heavy the car is the more severe this is. "Car" weighing ~100g (without wheels) is ok but 300g+ starts having issues. It goes so far that the Ford Raptor set is even difficult to navigate by HoG! Usually one direction (reversing or going straight) is better, depends on setup. I've resorted to creating my own axles but I'd really like to use the hubs as they would make life easier. Is there any trick to fixing them? I've tried lubing them but that does not fix toe in toe out and doesn't really work with inner friction either. Thanks, Methes