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Super cool to see this kind of experimentation—show us how it evolves! On my side, I’ve come across some amazing products on Ali, including a bunch of servo motors I’ve never seen before, and some other items I’ll let you discover. This one seems really interesting—it’s bulkier than our usual Geekservos but appears to offer a force of 5kg instead of the 2kg we’re used to. Has anyone tested it yet? There are also other servo motors in different formats, offering the same force as the original Geekservo: This one also claims to deliver 2kg of force but is supposedly equipped with metal gears: Then I stumbled upon this—a kind of battery box, although I’m not super familiar with this type of hybrid device that seems to allow control of classic Lego motors. It might interest some of you who want to dig deeper into this: I also think I’ve found metal axles, which I’d guess are aluminum. Judging by the price per unit, I can’t think of what else they could be. But there’s no information about the material in the description: Lastly, here’s a device that seems to be a Bluetooth speaker: I also spotted a small smoke machine with the same type of connection.

Of course, I plan to make a video about it! To give you more details, this setup features Zene’s motor directly connected to its metal differential, powered by a 3S battery, entirely on ball bearings, and weighing only 870g. Zene already powers models close to 3kg at speeds between 50 and 60 km/h without even pushing them to their limits Great question! What drives me to create this mix is that it combines two of my biggest passions: LEGO and RC cars. At the level of optimization I’ve reached, plastic parts don’t suffer as much as you’d think. In fact, they’re no longer in direct contact with the load and power. And, ultimately, even in hobby-grade RCs, plastic is still widely used! Another advantage is that if I break something on an RC LEGO model, I can replace it easily and at a low cost. On a hobby-grade RC, replacement parts can sometimes cost a third of the car’s price, plus there are delivery delays, etc. I’d also add that I get bored relatively quickly with a conventional RC car, which often pushes me to buy something new. It’s much cheaper for me to invest in optimizing RC LEGO models, and I also enjoy the endless creativity of building new designs without ever getting bored. The Dremel is also a great friend of mine. Whenever I need a part that doesn’t exist, I try to create it from an existing one—or adapt certain things as needed. I even have a box full of custom LEGO pieces I’ve modified over time! :D Thank you for your interest

Hi! Great to see you experimenting with all of this! To prevent losing your wheels, you can absolutely use the same part you're already using near your motor. Be careful not to over-tighten, though, as it could create friction (especially on the rear axle). That's why you can also integrate a small flat bearing with a 5mm inner diameter. With this, you can securely tighten your wheel and also get the added benefit of a ball bearing. Since you're working with low speeds, that should be sufficient. You can also apply a bit of lubricant to your gears, but be careful not to "contaminate" the surrounding parts. On my side, I'm mainly aiming to exceed 50 km/h, with this model even surpassing 70 km/h. That’s why I also use quite a few metal parts, particularly metal wheel hubs with ball bearings, which allow the wheels to be tightened with screws. I also use metal differentials and gears, as well as ball bearings and connectors with screws. But admittedly, this can get expensive. It all depends on what you're aiming for in the end! Feel free to show us how your model evolves

Hello everyone, I'm thrilled to share my return to designing RC Lego models with brushless motors and hobby-grade RC components. The big change from last year is that I’m now incorporating metal parts, which are essential to achieve the level of performance I’m aiming for: full-on bashing on roads and trails! My primary goal remains creating small-scale models in 1/28 to 1/24 scale. The idea is to have something compact, fun, and durable that I can take anywhere. These vehicles must handle high speeds of 40–50 km/h (or more) while maintaining near-perfect handling and long-term durability (no slack or wear developing over time for any reason). Challenges I faced before using metal parts: Wheel hubs: Even with ball bearings, they weren’t suitable. Plastic would melt due to friction, wear would worsen over time, leading to imprecise steering and wheels loosening over time (especially on the front axle). Motor mount: Either not strong enough or too bulky, causing gears to skip during heavy acceleration bursts. Plastic gears: Prone to breaking, even with lubrication. Structural rigidity: Required excessive pieces to strengthen the front and rear axles, as high speeds exerted significant stress on the build. How metal parts solved these issues: Metal wheel hubs: Fully equipped with ball bearings. Axle secured with two transverse screws and three front-facing screws for a solid wheel/rim attachment. Pin connectors: Metal connectors with screws at each end, available in 1L ¾, 2L, 3L, and longer (they can interconnect). These allow secure locking of any model sections, including the front steering assembly and rear motor mount. Metal gears: Lubricated and securely fixed, they’re virtually unbreakable and stay perfectly in place during heavy acceleration bursts. Presenting my latest build: The Race Buggy in 1/26 scale addresses all the above issues! Dimensions: Length: 15.5 cm Width: 8.8 cm (11.5 cm with wheels) Height (highest point): 8.5 cm Weight: 456 g with a 3S battery Electronics: Brushless motor: A2212 1000KV ESC: Surpass Hobby 35A Receiver: DumboRC X6FG Transmitter: DumboRC X6PM 350 (with gyro on) Battery: 2S 400mAh or 3S 450mAh Mechanics: Gear ratio: 1/3.5 Steel pinion gear Front suspension: Rubber bands Rear suspension: Custom soft springs Rear axle: Free-moving with aluminum shaft Ball bearings on the motor shaft and rear axle Metal front hubs with ball bearings Positive caster angle Multiple metal pin connectors with screws for locking connections and eliminating slack Suspension and handling tweaks: I spent considerable time fine-tuning the suspension system to eliminate bouncing. It’s deliberately set to remain slightly loose, staying at ¾ compression to provide a “cloud-like” effect that smooths out surface irregularities. For the rear suspension, I use 2 custom springs much softer than the Lego “soft” springs, which are too stiff for a lightweight model like this. The rear axle is also free-floating (attached to the chassis via three 2L rubber beams), allowing slight travel and improving overall handling. Design and initial results: I prioritized aesthetics over external durability this time, but we’ll see if I regret that decision after a flip at 30+ km/h, haha! So far, I’ve done some indoor tests (it’s been raining non-stop), and I’m satisfied—my expectations have been met. The model handles heavy acceleration bursts on 3S without issue. The gears don’t skip or grind, and there are no suspicious noises in the drivetrain. Thanks to the fully locked and precise steering assembly, handling is flawless. Final thoughts: It’s incredibly reassuring to know that everything is solid and reliable. I can’t wait to test it outdoors!

Great, thanks! Is it permanent, or is there a way to dissolve the glue? With acetone, for example?

Thanks Hey, thanks for the tips and tricks! Do you apply the small drop of glue on the threading before inserting the screw, or on the screw head after tightening? Also, what type of lube do you use?

I just got back from my week away for work and found all the parts I ordered from MTP and Zene waiting for me. I think I’ve got everything I need—a new chapter is about to begin! Whether it’s from one seller or the other, the design quality is flawless, and the packaging is really professional—I’m quite impressed.

Hey! Another really cool project here. I was wondering if you’d given up on brushless motorization? I see you’re using a Buwizz and buggy motors

Np I wanted to share a motor discovery—I'm not sure if it’s been mentioned before, but since I got to test it today, I thought I’d pass along the info! E-Sky 2615 3500kv 26mm diameter 15mm long Works with 2S and 3S Motor shaft diameter is 3.17mm and 13mm long Mounting spacing perfectly adapted to the Lego system with M3 screws It does, however, come with uncommon 2.5mm connectors, so I swapped them for 3.5mm banana plugs that are compatible with our ESCs. I find it especially interesting because it’s much more compact than our usual A2212, and in my initial indoor tests, it’s really powerful. I didn’t feel any difference with my smaller models compared to the A2212 in a 1/3 ratio. It behaves the same way, even at very low RPMs. Another advantage is that, with its smaller dimensions, it’s easier to fit into a space surrounded by Lego parts since you can run axles all around it without any contact—something that’s impossible with the bulkier A2212.

Thanks for sharing! But I’m not sure how you’re able to fit a Lego piece with an approximate diameter of 4.7mm so easily into a 4mm inner diameter. I tried it since I also have a 4mm inner diameter piece, and it’s impossible to fit it in, even with a lot of force—I had to sand down the Lego piece. I think you’re using a 5mm inner diameter. Also, like you, I tried creating a slight flat spot on the end of the motor shaft, but tightening the screw on it slightly misaligns the blue (or the longer black one in my case) Lego piece. This is not ideal because it makes the gear spin off-center, even if only slightly, which causes unwanted tension at speeds of 40-50km/h, plus it creates a loud noise. Your method remains a mystery to me, as it seems technically impossible and pretty unstable for the long term, but I’m glad it works for you—your video certainly shows that it does

That’s true! But still, before bringing out the welding station, I have another idea in mind. I’m thinking of lightly grinding the motor shaft to create a VERY slight flat spot on each side, where the screws will make contact. But I’m worried I might end up slightly misaligned doing that, as it requires a certain level of precision. We’ll see!

Hi brushless club, just dropping by to show a new method for securely attaching a Lego axle to a brushless motor shaft. I haven’t tested it under real conditions yet, but it seems promising. So far, no matter how hard I try to twist it by hand, it doesn’t budge or slip at all. When I tried the same thing with super glue and baking soda, it would give way pretty quickly. I don’t know the name of this small piece in English, but you can find various types on AliExpress. They come in different inner diameters—I'm using a 5mm one to slide the black Lego piece in and then fit it onto the 3.17mm motor shaft. You first need to drill the black Lego piece so that the screws can pass through and make contact with the motor shaft after tightening My concern is that it might loosen a bit during use with the vibrations and so on. I’ll test it under real conditions once I’ve built a brand-new prototype when my large MTP order arrives. I’ll have an answer in about two weeks. If it turns out not to be effective, I’ll most likely make the ultimate decision to bring out the TIG welder and start welding (metal axle, metal gear, etc.)

To keep it brief, my goal is extreme miniaturization using brushless motors and all the necessary equipment to support them. I’ll never go below 1/24 scale and aim to reach as close as possible to 1/26 or even 1/28 scale (with a wheelbase between 9 and 16 cm max). Currently, with plastic and a few ball bearings, I’m achieving controlled speeds of around 40 km/h, but I hope that metal parts will provide true stability (especially in the steering) to reach 60-70 km/h with these mini models. Everything I’ve purchased will allow me to “lock down” as many areas as possible on the model to prevent play (in the steering and motor mount), and use as few parts as possible to avoid extra thickness. This will also let me focus more on design and aesthetics, which are my biggest challenges right now. It’s tough to combine small scales, durability, light weight, and design, especially with such high speed and usage requirements. I’ll be sharing updates on my progress as usual. We’re taking it to the next level! And I added a few parts before my order was shipped, just to make sure I didn’t miss anything

What a pleasure to see that the metal wheel hubs from MTP are finally online! For the occasion, I also placed a small order with them! I also went through ZENE's shop; I ordered his brushless motor and 2 high-performance differentials ! Can’t wait to receive all of this.

I'm also eagerly awaiting the release of the metal wheel hubs, as it's the last part I need to truly be satisfied with my Lego RC models and potentially resume my passion. I've completely stopped all my builds in the meantime because it's the last recurring major issue that I can't solve without metal. I've long used the TF Engineering wheel hubs, with ball bearings, but they're plastic, and inevitably melt after a few runs due to friction. As a reminder, I only build off-road models in 1/26 and 1/24 scale, running between 30 and 50 kph. Even with a light weight and lubrication, nothing has been able to prevent the play that gradually develops until they become unusable. The vehicle ends up sagging, and horrible play sets into the steering. I’ve seen what Zene offers, but it seems that their hubs still contain plastic, which won’t work for me. I would have liked to try them, but unfortunately, I can't connect 1/24 scale rims (8mm HEX). My only hope now lies with MTP, to connect classic Lego rims, while fitting real RC hobby-grade tires compatible with diameters of 50 to 60mm. I’ve been doing this for a while with the TF hubs, even though they weren’t designed for high speed. I'm really crossing my fingers, especially since in the meantime, I've found two new more compact brushless motors and a new solution to adapt the Lego axle to the motor axle (using a clamp ring). I used to use glue, but it always ended up breaking. I would really enjoy sharing all of this once I can test it in real conditions, if I ever solve this wheel hub issue!