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Super cool to see this kind of experimentation—show us how it evolves! On my side, I’ve come across some amazing products on Ali, including a bunch of servo motors I’ve never seen before, and some other items I’ll let you discover. This one seems really interesting—it’s bulkier than our usual Geekservos but appears to offer a force of 5kg instead of the 2kg we’re used to. Has anyone tested it yet? There are also other servo motors in different formats, offering the same force as the original Geekservo: This one also claims to deliver 2kg of force but is supposedly equipped with metal gears: Then I stumbled upon this—a kind of battery box, although I’m not super familiar with this type of hybrid device that seems to allow control of classic Lego motors. It might interest some of you who want to dig deeper into this: I also think I’ve found metal axles, which I’d guess are aluminum. Judging by the price per unit, I can’t think of what else they could be. But there’s no information about the material in the description: Lastly, here’s a device that seems to be a Bluetooth speaker: I also spotted a small smoke machine with the same type of connection.

Of course, I plan to make a video about it! To give you more details, this setup features Zene’s motor directly connected to its metal differential, powered by a 3S battery, entirely on ball bearings, and weighing only 870g. Zene already powers models close to 3kg at speeds between 50 and 60 km/h without even pushing them to their limits Great question! What drives me to create this mix is that it combines two of my biggest passions: LEGO and RC cars. At the level of optimization I’ve reached, plastic parts don’t suffer as much as you’d think. In fact, they’re no longer in direct contact with the load and power. And, ultimately, even in hobby-grade RCs, plastic is still widely used! Another advantage is that if I break something on an RC LEGO model, I can replace it easily and at a low cost. On a hobby-grade RC, replacement parts can sometimes cost a third of the car’s price, plus there are delivery delays, etc. I’d also add that I get bored relatively quickly with a conventional RC car, which often pushes me to buy something new. It’s much cheaper for me to invest in optimizing RC LEGO models, and I also enjoy the endless creativity of building new designs without ever getting bored. The Dremel is also a great friend of mine. Whenever I need a part that doesn’t exist, I try to create it from an existing one—or adapt certain things as needed. I even have a box full of custom LEGO pieces I’ve modified over time! :D Thank you for your interest

Hi! Great to see you experimenting with all of this! To prevent losing your wheels, you can absolutely use the same part you're already using near your motor. Be careful not to over-tighten, though, as it could create friction (especially on the rear axle). That's why you can also integrate a small flat bearing with a 5mm inner diameter. With this, you can securely tighten your wheel and also get the added benefit of a ball bearing. Since you're working with low speeds, that should be sufficient. You can also apply a bit of lubricant to your gears, but be careful not to "contaminate" the surrounding parts. On my side, I'm mainly aiming to exceed 50 km/h, with this model even surpassing 70 km/h. That’s why I also use quite a few metal parts, particularly metal wheel hubs with ball bearings, which allow the wheels to be tightened with screws. I also use metal differentials and gears, as well as ball bearings and connectors with screws. But admittedly, this can get expensive. It all depends on what you're aiming for in the end! Feel free to show us how your model evolves

Hello everyone, I'm thrilled to share my return to designing RC Lego models with brushless motors and hobby-grade RC components. The big change from last year is that I’m now incorporating metal parts, which are essential to achieve the level of performance I’m aiming for: full-on bashing on roads and trails! My primary goal remains creating small-scale models in 1/28 to 1/24 scale. The idea is to have something compact, fun, and durable that I can take anywhere. These vehicles must handle high speeds of 40–50 km/h (or more) while maintaining near-perfect handling and long-term durability (no slack or wear developing over time for any reason). Challenges I faced before using metal parts: Wheel hubs: Even with ball bearings, they weren’t suitable. Plastic would melt due to friction, wear would worsen over time, leading to imprecise steering and wheels loosening over time (especially on the front axle). Motor mount: Either not strong enough or too bulky, causing gears to skip during heavy acceleration bursts. Plastic gears: Prone to breaking, even with lubrication. Structural rigidity: Required excessive pieces to strengthen the front and rear axles, as high speeds exerted significant stress on the build. How metal parts solved these issues: Metal wheel hubs: Fully equipped with ball bearings. Axle secured with two transverse screws and three front-facing screws for a solid wheel/rim attachment. Pin connectors: Metal connectors with screws at each end, available in 1L ¾, 2L, 3L, and longer (they can interconnect). These allow secure locking of any model sections, including the front steering assembly and rear motor mount. Metal gears: Lubricated and securely fixed, they’re virtually unbreakable and stay perfectly in place during heavy acceleration bursts. Presenting my latest build: The Race Buggy in 1/26 scale addresses all the above issues! Dimensions: Length: 15.5 cm Width: 8.8 cm (11.5 cm with wheels) Height (highest point): 8.5 cm Weight: 456 g with a 3S battery Electronics: Brushless motor: A2212 1000KV ESC: Surpass Hobby 35A Receiver: DumboRC X6FG Transmitter: DumboRC X6PM 350 (with gyro on) Battery: 2S 400mAh or 3S 450mAh Mechanics: Gear ratio: 1/3.5 Steel pinion gear Front suspension: Rubber bands Rear suspension: Custom soft springs Rear axle: Free-moving with aluminum shaft Ball bearings on the motor shaft and rear axle Metal front hubs with ball bearings Positive caster angle Multiple metal pin connectors with screws for locking connections and eliminating slack Suspension and handling tweaks: I spent considerable time fine-tuning the suspension system to eliminate bouncing. It’s deliberately set to remain slightly loose, staying at ¾ compression to provide a “cloud-like” effect that smooths out surface irregularities. For the rear suspension, I use 2 custom springs much softer than the Lego “soft” springs, which are too stiff for a lightweight model like this. The rear axle is also free-floating (attached to the chassis via three 2L rubber beams), allowing slight travel and improving overall handling. Design and initial results: I prioritized aesthetics over external durability this time, but we’ll see if I regret that decision after a flip at 30+ km/h, haha! So far, I’ve done some indoor tests (it’s been raining non-stop), and I’m satisfied—my expectations have been met. The model handles heavy acceleration bursts on 3S without issue. The gears don’t skip or grind, and there are no suspicious noises in the drivetrain. Thanks to the fully locked and precise steering assembly, handling is flawless. Final thoughts: It’s incredibly reassuring to know that everything is solid and reliable. I can’t wait to test it outdoors!

Great, thanks! Is it permanent, or is there a way to dissolve the glue? With acetone, for example?

Thanks Hey, thanks for the tips and tricks! Do you apply the small drop of glue on the threading before inserting the screw, or on the screw head after tightening? Also, what type of lube do you use?

I just got back from my week away for work and found all the parts I ordered from MTP and Zene waiting for me. I think I’ve got everything I need—a new chapter is about to begin! Whether it’s from one seller or the other, the design quality is flawless, and the packaging is really professional—I’m quite impressed.

Hey! Another really cool project here. I was wondering if you’d given up on brushless motorization? I see you’re using a Buwizz and buggy motors

Np I wanted to share a motor discovery—I'm not sure if it’s been mentioned before, but since I got to test it today, I thought I’d pass along the info! E-Sky 2615 3500kv 26mm diameter 15mm long Works with 2S and 3S Motor shaft diameter is 3.17mm and 13mm long Mounting spacing perfectly adapted to the Lego system with M3 screws It does, however, come with uncommon 2.5mm connectors, so I swapped them for 3.5mm banana plugs that are compatible with our ESCs. I find it especially interesting because it’s much more compact than our usual A2212, and in my initial indoor tests, it’s really powerful. I didn’t feel any difference with my smaller models compared to the A2212 in a 1/3 ratio. It behaves the same way, even at very low RPMs. Another advantage is that, with its smaller dimensions, it’s easier to fit into a space surrounded by Lego parts since you can run axles all around it without any contact—something that’s impossible with the bulkier A2212.

Thanks for sharing! But I’m not sure how you’re able to fit a Lego piece with an approximate diameter of 4.7mm so easily into a 4mm inner diameter. I tried it since I also have a 4mm inner diameter piece, and it’s impossible to fit it in, even with a lot of force—I had to sand down the Lego piece. I think you’re using a 5mm inner diameter. Also, like you, I tried creating a slight flat spot on the end of the motor shaft, but tightening the screw on it slightly misaligns the blue (or the longer black one in my case) Lego piece. This is not ideal because it makes the gear spin off-center, even if only slightly, which causes unwanted tension at speeds of 40-50km/h, plus it creates a loud noise. Your method remains a mystery to me, as it seems technically impossible and pretty unstable for the long term, but I’m glad it works for you—your video certainly shows that it does

That’s true! But still, before bringing out the welding station, I have another idea in mind. I’m thinking of lightly grinding the motor shaft to create a VERY slight flat spot on each side, where the screws will make contact. But I’m worried I might end up slightly misaligned doing that, as it requires a certain level of precision. We’ll see!

Hi brushless club, just dropping by to show a new method for securely attaching a Lego axle to a brushless motor shaft. I haven’t tested it under real conditions yet, but it seems promising. So far, no matter how hard I try to twist it by hand, it doesn’t budge or slip at all. When I tried the same thing with super glue and baking soda, it would give way pretty quickly. I don’t know the name of this small piece in English, but you can find various types on AliExpress. They come in different inner diameters—I'm using a 5mm one to slide the black Lego piece in and then fit it onto the 3.17mm motor shaft. You first need to drill the black Lego piece so that the screws can pass through and make contact with the motor shaft after tightening My concern is that it might loosen a bit during use with the vibrations and so on. I’ll test it under real conditions once I’ve built a brand-new prototype when my large MTP order arrives. I’ll have an answer in about two weeks. If it turns out not to be effective, I’ll most likely make the ultimate decision to bring out the TIG welder and start welding (metal axle, metal gear, etc.)

To keep it brief, my goal is extreme miniaturization using brushless motors and all the necessary equipment to support them. I’ll never go below 1/24 scale and aim to reach as close as possible to 1/26 or even 1/28 scale (with a wheelbase between 9 and 16 cm max). Currently, with plastic and a few ball bearings, I’m achieving controlled speeds of around 40 km/h, but I hope that metal parts will provide true stability (especially in the steering) to reach 60-70 km/h with these mini models. Everything I’ve purchased will allow me to “lock down” as many areas as possible on the model to prevent play (in the steering and motor mount), and use as few parts as possible to avoid extra thickness. This will also let me focus more on design and aesthetics, which are my biggest challenges right now. It’s tough to combine small scales, durability, light weight, and design, especially with such high speed and usage requirements. I’ll be sharing updates on my progress as usual. We’re taking it to the next level! And I added a few parts before my order was shipped, just to make sure I didn’t miss anything

What a pleasure to see that the metal wheel hubs from MTP are finally online! For the occasion, I also placed a small order with them! I also went through ZENE's shop; I ordered his brushless motor and 2 high-performance differentials ! Can’t wait to receive all of this.

I'm also eagerly awaiting the release of the metal wheel hubs, as it's the last part I need to truly be satisfied with my Lego RC models and potentially resume my passion. I've completely stopped all my builds in the meantime because it's the last recurring major issue that I can't solve without metal. I've long used the TF Engineering wheel hubs, with ball bearings, but they're plastic, and inevitably melt after a few runs due to friction. As a reminder, I only build off-road models in 1/26 and 1/24 scale, running between 30 and 50 kph. Even with a light weight and lubrication, nothing has been able to prevent the play that gradually develops until they become unusable. The vehicle ends up sagging, and horrible play sets into the steering. I’ve seen what Zene offers, but it seems that their hubs still contain plastic, which won’t work for me. I would have liked to try them, but unfortunately, I can't connect 1/24 scale rims (8mm HEX). My only hope now lies with MTP, to connect classic Lego rims, while fitting real RC hobby-grade tires compatible with diameters of 50 to 60mm. I’ve been doing this for a while with the TF hubs, even though they weren’t designed for high speed. I'm really crossing my fingers, especially since in the meantime, I've found two new more compact brushless motors and a new solution to adapt the Lego axle to the motor axle (using a clamp ring). I used to use glue, but it always ended up breaking. I would really enjoy sharing all of this once I can test it in real conditions, if I ever solve this wheel hub issue!

It's no coincidence, the information has been circulating for less than 2 years, I would say! The advantage is that it costs about €6 That's exactly it, thank you for getting ahead of me Indeed, I have absolutely no hesitation in using compatible parts, especially this one, which is just indispensable for me, in all lengths! Thank you very much for your interest in my creations. You can follow the latest updates on my general topic in my signature. For your information, the model presented here in this topic is really obsolete and is one of my early creations! New things are coming soon, always in small scale. My goal with each new creation is to surpass the previous one, ultimately achieving something hobby-grade. I'm getting close, and the final leap forward will happen with 2-3 metal parts that I hope will arrive over the summer. I'm waiting for MTP (Metal Technic Parts) to release their metal wheel hub and drive flange. I'll take the opportunity to invest in metal gears among other things! After that, I think I'll achieve complete confidence during driving and extreme use of the motor with the 3S battery. Currently, I still have a slight hesitation on really sharp accelerations if I don't apply a bit of silicone on gears. I want to eliminate that dependency. As for the metal wheel hub and drive flange, they will eliminate the last bit of play in the front axle. Currently, I'm using those from TF Engineering with ball bearings, but they still have plastic around them. They are very good, but at high speeds, they gradually melt at the rear where the two elements connect. Plastic on plastic at several thousand RPM... This results in increasing play over time with use It's complicated for me to publish on Rebrickable because my models would be difficult for most people to reproduce. This is mainly due to the use of RC components, 3D parts with ball bearings, and some cut pieces here and there. However, I think I can provide enough information for people to acquire the components and experiment on their own according to their preferred scales! Because I think people aren't too interested in small scales and would prefer to see larger ones, but I don't find that appealing for several reasons. First, the bigger it is, the heavier it gets, and the more complicated it becomes to manage the weaknesses of Lego plastic at high speeds. It would require more parts with ball bearings and metal components, only to end up being disappointed. This has been attempted by a few people here, and the conclusions are unanimous: it's impossible to achieve the level of even the most basic hobby-grade RC at the same scales that exceed 25-30 km/h. However, when it comes to small scales, there are no affordable hobby-grade brushless models on the market. They are already very rare in RTR, they are expensive, and they remain fragile and costly in spare parts. In this case, I can say that my LEGO alternatives really make sense to me! Certainly, there has been an investment, but once I have the truly optimal 'recipe,' the only limit will be imagination. Nothing surpasses the pleasure of designing and building something that will be used intensely and with great reliability

Thanks for your question! To answer you, the motor is perfectly suited to the Lego system. You can attach any Lego piece with M3 screws directly to the back of the motor! And luckily, the total length, including the gear, also fits exactly within the Lego system's dimensions. So, I can create custom mounts that securely hold the whole assembly. I think there are many ways to approach the mounting of this motor; here are a few for the types of projects I undertake: And the battery, I usually just place it loosely in the cabin but it is entirely possible to secure it in some way

Wow, I'm thrilled to see a model at this small scale, especially a 4x4. Hats off for the work! I can't hide my irresistible urge to see this guy in action on video

The look is really phenomenal, I love it. Well done!

It's true that this motor seems complicated to adapt to the Lego system. It's really big, and I wonder if it's really necessary? The 2212 motors at €6 each are so easy to adapt, and they perform great on 3S

There are some great developments here, can't wait to see this system in action!

Indeed, it's very enjoyable; it's lively, fast, and reliable. A finished model that I will keep and enjoy using! Otherwise, I'm back today with an entirely new model that brings me just as much pleasure and is much more versatile. What prompted this design was receiving my 50mm Yeahrun tires. They literally change the game, providing the softness I've been seeking for so long and a handling that is incomparable. In short, a game changer. With this in mind, I decided to attempt another mini off-road model, but even more compact than anything I've done before! I wanted a significant steering angle, a front and rear suspension system, and a focus on robustness. I'm very satisfied with the steering angle; it's very practical indoors, and the feel is much better outdoors, without feeling limited. For the suspension system, I used a completely new method: the front and rear axles do not bend from the bottom of the chassis but from the top. So, the travel is outward rather than inward, preventing it from hitting the components in the middle. Finally, the design prioritizes strength to avoid disintegration in case of crashes or rollovers. It works quite well! The same electronic components as usual were used. Regarding the dimensions: 417g 15.5x11x9cm Here is the result, which I invite you to enjoy in the video. A small bonus: This tiny model built for fun, which is only really useful indoors but is relatively fun to drive. The problem is the tires are too hard. The other unique aspect of this model is that I managed to integrate a vertical front suspension system using springs. I think I could have done the same for the rear if I had focused on it. It runs on 2S, which is sufficient. Dimensions: 12.5x9x7.5cm I'm already thinking about making it even more compact, this time with smaller wheels. Stay tuned.

Super cool, there's a lot of work and research! And I love the little scale

Thank you, that means a lot to me, and I think you couldn't have given me a better compliment. Your image speaks volumes Here's a quick one-minute video to enjoy some high-speed moments and a bit of driving. I'll make something more elaborate very soon! Having a lot of fun with this model, the securely held wheels provide immense satisfaction because you can really push it to the limit and it doesn't flinch a bit! I've been driving it almost non-stop for nearly 20 minutes, chaining together high-speed runs and aggressive driving. I truly believe it's perfected; for the first time, I see nothing to improve, nothing to add, nothing to remove.

Hello everyone! It's been a little while since I last posted because I had to prioritize my personal and professional life for a few changes. I'm back with a head full of ideas and a brand new mini RC model, because obviously, my attraction to small scales hasn't changed. I've taken the base of my previous best creation (regarding the smallest wheels) To further correct some flaws or things that weren't quite right. The ultimate goal remains to have a vehicle available to take anywhere to achieve high speeds, and one that can sustain this pace at all costs. Here's what I've modified: The motor box, much better built, locked in all axes this time. The gears can no longer jump or get damaged; I can accelerate to the max without risk of damage, even on 3S. Completely revised suspension system. I no longer use elastics. Indeed, I noticed that they lose tension over time and degrade. So, I'm switching back to spring shock absorbers that I've crafted myself. They are softer than Lego's "soft" versions, therefore more suitable in my case. The big novelty on this model is that the front is now also affected, for better driving comfort and no longer systematically lifting off at the slightest pebble passing under the wheel. The rear axle has a slight controlled lateral roll thanks to the grip of the shock absorbers, offering a slight travel of about 1.5cm. Sufficient. Total redesign of the front axle. The biggest problem came from there, too fragile. So, I'm trying another method that I think will be effective in the long run. Placing the electronics as close to the ground as possible to have the lowest possible center of gravity. I also reinforced the chassis with additional vertical locks. All these modifications involve an increase in length and width of only 1 stud (between each wheel). Note that I did not hesitate to modify parts (mainly cutting). And above all, I discovered a new trick to lock the wheels on the axles. You just have to slide small pieces of silicone tubes onto the axles, slightly undersized to completely lock the wheels. It's flawlessly efficient! Otherwise, the electronics remain the same, still ball bearings at all moving parts, and a carbon rear axle. Light lubrication on the gears only. Dimensions: 20x11x8cm Wheelbase=13cm I think I've covered everything, in case you have any questions or remarks! As for the next steps, I'm thinking of going back to 1:24 scale with wheels of 50 to 60mm in diameter. The novelty at this level will be the tires; I've invested in 5x4 real RC tires that fit perfectly on Lego rims. I will have diameters between 50 and 72mm. The order shouldn't be long now! In this one, there are also small 45mm oil-filled suspensions that I will adapt to Lego. If this solution is viable, it could be a new game changer for future creations.