Krzychups

Well, I've tried to make a 2 speed gearbox for my crawler. I've printed 24 and 36 teeth gears, a 3L nylon clutch, and some sort of switch also made from nylon, but that part has actually melted. By the way, I found this gear on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5887041. But if the Lego clutch is weak for 2 XL PF motors, I won't try again. Keep in mind that 3D printed parts are not ideal, so when I've disassembled this gearbox, I've found that the 24 tooth gear was merged to the axle. Here's a photo of my gearbox: What exactly do you mean? I totally agree with you, wheel hubs are the main problem, then the motor housing. I prefer RC wheels, because there's much less chance of wheels falling off. There are also a lot more types of wheels on the market compared to Lego ones. I've been experimenting with @HorcikDesigns live axles parts. They are very cool. So far I've made a crawler, but it's not the final version. I still need to buy diffs, and some parts for bodywork. In the picture you can see the front axle with the diff lock. I'm using the SG90 servo, because it's cheaper and smaller than the geekservo and some 3D printed parts like tie rods and parts for the bearings. I've designed a special part to mount the servo. I'm using 80 mm Injora rc shocks, but I haven't filled them with silicone oil yet xD. The speed is about 3,5 km/h. My crawler is powered by brushless motor with metal planetary gearbox, but it's not the final version yet. As I said, I'm waiting for metal parts. Here are some videos:

It might be a good idea, I haven't thought about it. I would have to figure out how to stop 3D printing and then turn it on in my ender S1 Pro 3D printer. Regarding materials, I've planned to print them from nylon at 0,2 mm nozzle to get better details (that's why I've bought Garolite G10 sheet to print nylon which is a very good plate even for other materials, I don't need to use glue stick). Maybe polycarbonate might work with it. Nylon is a strong material, but hard to print, as well as polycarbonate. I wonder how robust PLA+ would be. I'm still waiting for my metal parts for wheel hubs and planetary gearbox. @Aurorasaurus, @Variteck good work with your trophy trucks! What is your experience with gearboxes using brushless or other powerful motors? I've made a simple gearbox with 3D printed parts because I don't have them, but it has got some problems. @Aurorasaurus, you say that Lego gears or diffs don't work well with such a power of brushless motors. What about the yellow differential?

Yes, I know about this. I can make corrections in 3D models. I can't use it everywhere, but it'll work in some places. Can you share your project with us?

Hi everyone! I'd like to show you my idea for custom wheel hubs with metal U-joints and ball bearings. These hubs are designed for 12 mm hex rc wheels (I can change to 17 mm if needed), they're not compatible with LEGO Technic wheels. The great thing about it is that it won't come off, and there are lots more tyre and rim options. My idea was to create wheel hubs with ball bearings and metal U-joints to prevent issues like broken U-joints and wheels falling off. They're based on the wheel hubs which @Daniel-99 has. I haven't finished them yet, but I hope they'll live up to my expectations! So far, I've made these versions. While I was writing this post I realised that my front wheel hub for live axle suspenion has a design problem. But it looks similar to Daniel's ones. Rear wheel hub: Needed parts: 18 mm lenght 2 mm diameter rod, metal U-joint with 2 mm hole (2 versions are available on the market, you can use one of them), ball bearing (21x15x4 mm), M5 nut and washer, M5 threaded rod with drilled 2 mm hole, 3D printed parts to attach it to LEGO Technic bricks. This is the hardest part to do. You need to drill M5 thread in U-joint and 2 mm hole. If all goes well, I will get the parts made on CNC (I have an acquaintance with one person). I recommend to print wheel hubs using 0,2 mm diameter nozzle. I'll use nylon, I am curious to see how PLA+ would work out. I've ordered Garolite G10 sheet, so finally I can avoid problems with first layer adhesion! I want to make another front wheel hub, also modelled on Daniel's ones. It has 0,5 stud kingpin inclination, is it useful? I've also ordered HSP 02038 parts, I can use them replacing LEGO ball joint pins. What do you think about this? Let me know!

I can only recomend Fiberlogy filaments with graphite color but for DBG (dark grey) color, not LBG. This is ideal when you mesh Lego DBG parts with it. I don't know if it is available in Canada or New Zealand because it is a Polish brand.

Hello everyone! Good job @HorcikDesigns! Your planetary gearbox with the brushless motor is very similar to Zene's one, although yours has bigger gear ratio which is better, but it's made from plastic. I wonder how rubust is it. As @Krxlion has noticed, these motors have low RPMs range, better are drone motors. It is not related to your planetary gearbox, but you use 8x5x3 mm ball bearings. How it works? I've found the smallest ball bearings which are R156ZZ ones (7.938 x 4.762 x 3.175 mm). Would you use them? There's also a possibility you have approximated the ball bearings size. Yeah, those are beautiful, I'm going to print them. I see that you modelled it on this Russian's design like me. I'm looking forward to your project! I'm curious how have you made it. Maybe some of you know it, I'm also working on custom planetary gearbox with a brushless drone motor (1:5,2 ratio). You can find it here. It has a metal planetary gearbox. It's quite long (10 studs) but I'm working on custom-made metal parts for this to reduce the lenght. It's more expensive and heavier, but it's robust, reliable and works smooth. Which motor is it?

Hey! I've made some corrections, this version is a bit different compared to my current version. If you want the stl files, hmmm... - you need to wait until I will finish the project. If you don't mind me asking, what do you need these files for?

Thank you! Not sure about it. Anyway, I need both of them, strenght and precision. Before I've started using the 0,2 mm nozzle I've printed one part with the 0,4 mm nozzle, it looks bad with such a level of details. It's another design I've designed in the past. I want to make and design wheel hubs that anyone could make for themselves. I'm also thinking about making a tutorial how to make them in the future.

Hey folks I have got the first protopype of the wheel hubs. 20240827_181400 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr 20240827_181407 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr The main problem of it is that it's very hard to drill 2 mm diameter hole in the M4 threaded shaft. Also, there's possibility that it may break near the hole - look at the photo. My shaft is crooked a bit and a wheel wobbles, it doesn't spin correctly. The bearing is not glued now. I've printed it using 0,2 mm nozzle, instead of 0,4 mm nozzle which are normally factory installed to get higher qualiity. Unfortunatelly the printing time is 4 times longer . 3D printed parts are printed from PCTG. 20240827_193430 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr Regarding my planetary gearboxes, I have 2 of them, I'm waiting for another motor. At the moment I'm using a plastic adapter to Lego Technic shafts, instead of metal ones. By the way how to hide images?

Hello everyone! Yesterday I started designing the wheel hubs with bearings which @Daniel-99 has, I asked for photos and informations almost 1 year ago. Zene's wheel hubs have 1 stud offset or 0,5 stud offset, it is almost impossible to make a FWD vehicle. That's why I designed it. I need to add mounting points. At the moment it looks like this: the wheel hub 1 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr the wheel hub 2 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr Parts: the metal shaft with a hole for kind of bolt or pin, the 3d printed wheel hub with a place for metal bearing, the 15x21x4 mm bearing the metal shaft, the metal universal joint. @Daniel-99, I know you have different types of wheel hubs, can you take some photos of them? I want to make different mounting points. Other photos are on my Flickr.

Thank you for your help! So far I have taken Zene's motor and it is very nicely done. It hasn't got any extra metal adapter (I really don't know how it would be made with 1 stud lenght), the + shape is build in the planetary gearbox's shaft. By the way I have found the planetary gearbox that Zene uses. Just look at the metal universal joints we use, they don't have the + shape like I have done, something like this would be better.

­­­­Hello folks! I want to present you my design of the metal planetary gearbox with the A2212 brushless motor (or other 28 mm diameter brushless motors). At the moment it is only a design (which can be modified), physically I have not got any part! Before reading, please read this topic (from this place) if you are interested in. You will understand it better. Unfortunately I cannot do the renders and animations, my computer is weak.... all parts by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr motor with planetary gearbox by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr Dimensions in studs: 5x5x10. The lenght is about 80 mm but it depends on the motor lenght (I do not include the shaft lenght which can be cut). Parts: the A2212 brushless motor, the 28 mm planetary gearbox for 3,17 mm diameter motor shaft, the metal adapter to connect it to the Lego axle. the 3D printed part with mounting points to connect it to the bricks, 10 screws (what type I will write later when I will have the planetary gearbox). The planetary gearbox Here is the link. Gearbox ratio is 1:5,2. I can use also 1:3,71 ratio or even 1:14 ratio (but this version is longer). Lenght is 31 mm, diameter is 28 mm. The gearbox from the fabric has got 20 mm lenght shaft, I need to cut it to 10 mm. The metal adapter To connect it to the planetary gearbox’s shaft use two M4 maggot screws to avoid no balance. Dimensions are in the photos: the metal adapter by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr the metal adapter 1 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr The 3D printed part with mounting points I think I will print it from PCTG (no mistake) or PA+GF (nylon with glass fiber) but I need the hartened steel hotend. I have modelled the design on this person’s design, my part is very similar. These ventilation holes are a bit strange, but I have designed them to use as little as possible support. I can redesign this part if needed. In my opinion I require to polish it (especially the back side of the part). If you have got any idea how to improve it, please write here. all parts1 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr all parts3 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr Selling If is demand, I will consider it. Questions? Please ask.

Hey, cool to see you have started to design parts to your brushless vehicles (like this). By the way, which 3d printer have you bought?

Wow, good job! You have done something I tried to do (look here), but much better. I'll try it. What I'm concerned about, are mounting holes - there aren't many of them. Edit: @gyenesvi I cannot quote while editing. You said: "What does that exactly mean? At first I thought you'd want to change the outer diameter to 24mm instead of 28mm to fit 24mm motors, but it seems you are talking about something different?" Regarding it, I meant that these planetary gearboxes are made for motors which have got about 2 mm shafts, for example the A2212 motor has got 3,17 mm shaft, so it wouldn't work. I hope you undestand it. Much easier would be using 3650 motors, but they are big and powerful.

Hello, I have written to the sellers of these planetary gearbox (the first planetary gearbox and the second one) if it is possible to change the diameter of the gear bore to fit the motor. I have received the replies that it is not possible. And that's the problem. Another option is drill 3.17 mm diameter bores if the gears' sizes are enough big.