orangetrialtruck

Yes, I've also heard about melting PF connectors (especially non-original) with two buggy motors. But decided to experiment and connect two motors to one PF port - so far so good :) But this might also be an indication that I don't play hard enough :)

Wow, amazing rock crawler!! :)) To reduce the amount of cables in my models, I decided to solder PF connectors directly to the ESC. So I don't need to use extra XT60/90 - PF cables - this really improved the cable management.

Thank you very much for your feedback! :) You are absolutely right about the studio model - the geometry of driveshaft is slightly off - I definitely need to improve my Studio skills :) Regarding the central differential - I took the idea from this MOC: MOC - BUWIZZ Motorized chassis for Set 42110 Land Rover Defender by Superkoala.

Thank you very much for the feedback, next time I'll try to take it into account! I took the model with me on vacation specifically for filming! :)

Thank you all!! 4 servos :) One for steering, one for gear shifting, one for rear differential lock and a separate servo for the steering wheel. There were not enough space (or I just couldn't make it) to connect the steering wheel directly to the steering system, so I decided to use an additional servo only for the steering wheel. So 4 servos in total :)

Hello everyone, I'd like to show you my Classic Land Rover Defender with 4 L motors for driving and RC electronics. I didn’t originally plan to build a Land Rover Defender model. My idea was to build a chassis with a 2-speed gearbox, locking center and rear differentials, suitable for an off-road vehicle. And once the chassis was ready, all that would be left was just to find the right body. Drivetrain & gearbox For propulsion, I used 4 L motors connected in pairs. The motors are geared up (20:16) and then connected to the gearbox. In the first (low) gear, the movement goes to the 12:20 gears and then directly to the drive shafts, the center differential is locked. In the second (high) gear, the movement is transmitted to the central differential through a pair of 16-tooth gears with a clutch. 1st gear: 20:16 -> 12:20 -> 14:22 (diff in axles) -> Planetary hubs => 11.31:1 2nd gear: 20:16 -> 16:16 -> 14:22 (diff in axles) -> Planetary hubs => 6.78:1 Front & rear axles The front axle was inspired by the Jeep Wrangler model by gyenesvi. The differential here is always open. The rear axle has a locking differential, activated by a GeekServo motor. I experimented with the 9.5L shock absorbers, but they were too long for this model, so I decided to go with the standard 6.5L shocks with a hard spring. The suspension is soft, with good travel. Bodywork Once the chassis was ready, I started to choose the body - after several attempts I found out that the classic Land Rover Defender 110 was the best candidate! Even though the reference image I found shows a 5-door version, I decided to build a 3-door version to simplify the body and reduce the weight. The bodywork design was heavily inspired by the Land Rover Defender 110 model by Sheepo. I decided to build it in red, luckily LEGO has enough red parts to build the body. I made the body modular, so that it can be quickly disassembled into large pieces for maintenance or modifications. All 3 doors have locks. I was primarily focused on playability, so I decided to sacrifice the fake engine and place the battery (3x18650 LiPo) under the hood for better weight distribution. The curb weight of the model is 2.40 kg. In order to have a working steering wheel, I used a second GeekServo motor. It’s connected to a separate receiver channel, which mirrors the 1st (steering) channel. The gearstick also works - it's connected to the gearbox with a technic link. The interior is simple, the seats are taken from the 42110 LEGO set. In the end, I am very satisfied with the model – it has a cool appearance, enough power for outdoor play, and a reliable transmission!

Hello, I don't understand how to hinge a CV joint (77590 + 52730) in two planes. When I click on the part, the rotation tool appears, but it only allows me to hinge the joint in one plane (in my case, vertical). But in order to connect it to the corresponding part, I also need to rotate in the horizontal plane. Should be something simple, but I'm stuck. Can anyone help? Thank you

Thank you! It was my initial thought - to hide the battery in one of the fuel tanks, but, unfortunately, there were not enough space there. Perhaps choosing a battery with a different form factor could help - but I only had the 14500 batteries.

I guess, you used non-original buggy motors? - original have thermal protection. I've never played with them, but I've heard many times that they are very unreliable - can burn easily. I use non-original L motors (standard grey clones and red ones - "enhanced") - so far so good.

Thank you! I used YS-60A-RTR, bought it on Ali and soldered PF connectors. Yes, it looks like an absolute overkill - AWG 16 wires and a massive heatsink for only two L motors :) Initially, I planned to use a smaller ESC, like this one: But during the tests it turned out that with two L motors it could work normally for only 10-15 mins. Then the power dropped significantly (overload protection?) and I had to let it cool down for some time. Very strange, maybe my copy was defective - according to the specs everything should have worked. Then I decided to switch to YS-60A-RTR because I had a spare one and I already had a very positive experience with it.

Hello everyone, I'd like to show my motorized version of the Model B from the Arocs 42043 set. This is one of my favorite LEGO sets and I already tried to motorize it with Power Functions, but was not satisfied with the results. A year ago I started using RC electronics in LEGO models and recently decided to try motorizing 42043-B again. My goal was to keep all the features of the original model, its exterior and interior and, at the same time, make the model nice to play with. The cabin remains exactly the same as in the original set, with the exception of the rear side. The chassis became 1 stud longer than the original set. I decided to use two L motors for driving to get enough power and speed. The truck is 4x4 without a central differential or gearbox - since there is no room for them. The driving motors connected in parallel via three 16-tooth gears. I used 12:28 differentials, so the final gear ratio is 3.89:1 (16:16 -> 12:20 -> 12:28). The differentials in both axles are open. I especially focused on making the chassis and transmission strong and reliable - it is ready for play both inside and outside. Original model has a standard LEGO-style fake engine, which takes up too much space. I replaced it with a compact 6 cylinder inline version. I decided not to connect the fake engine to the transmission, because it is only visible when the cab is tilted, but at the same time I wanted to keep it functional. So I connected it to a simple GeekServo motor, which can be activated remotely. The LiPo battery (3x14500) and the on\off switch is located behind the cab in a special case built from 3x5 and 2x4 liftarms. The receiver (FlySky FS-R6b) and the ESC are hidden on the sides, in the "fuel tanks". The curb weight of the model is 1.55 kg. The fifth wheel lock is controlled remotely using a small linear actuator and a CaDA micro motor. Video:

Thank you!

Thank you! This winter in my region there was essentially only one day of snow, so it was absolutely spontaneous decision to go outside and start filming :)

Hello everyone, This is my first post here and I want to present my last model: Jeep Wrangler with 4L motors, 4 wheels steering and RC electronics (FlySky): In this model I decided to focus on power and playablity so I put 4 L-motors for driving and used RC electronics to get proportinal steering and driving. The 4 L-motors layout idea was inspired by the Jeep Wrangler model by @Daniel-99. I used non-original PF-compatible L motors with higher RPM / torque. The model doesn’t have a gearbox and center differential, because all the space is taken by 4 L-motors. Technically, I could change the layout - lift the motors up and put the gearbox underneath - but, firstly, I didn’t want to spoil the interior, and secondly, this would increase weight of the model, which I wanted to keep as low as possible. The gears at the bottom are covered with a 3x11 panel. The differentials can be protected by thin 1x7 liftarms. To increase the playability, I decided to implement the 4 wheels steering (4WS). Each axle got its own GeekServo motor. I configured my FlySky GT3C radio to easily switch between the 4 steering modes: full/crab/front/rear. A small note about the FlySky GT3C radio - it doesn’t support 4WS out of the box. Luckily, there is alternative firmware the for GT3B and GT3C radios, that provides a lot of nice options, including the 4WS. The latest version, 0.6.1 was released in 2012, but it’s still actual! The Internet is full of information about installing and configuring this alternative firmware, but I couldn’t find a guide about setting up the 4WS, so I made a step-by-step video instruction with my setup. I managed to fit all the electronics (receiver, ESC and battery) under the hood. I like this setup not only because the interior is ‘clean’ of wires/electrics, but also because it improves the weight distribution - the heaviest components are in the front. The downside is there is no room for a fake engine. The model also got custom LEDs - headlights and taillights. The model is powered by a 3s LiPO battery, curb weight is 1.76 kg. The bodywork ideas were mostly taken from the great MOC Jeep Wrangler - 42129 alternate by @gyenesvi and I also took some ideas from the Sheepo’s Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. I built the model in yellow color, most of parts are taken from the 42114 Volvo Articulated Hauler set. I wanted the body to be all yellow and black, but unfortunately some parts don’t exist in the colors I needed. I prefer to use only original LEGO bricks, but I don’t hesitate to use aftermarket parts if don’t see any other solution. For this case, I took Technic Axle Pin with Friction Ridges in black color, Technic Pin Connector Round 1L in yellow and Technic Pin Long with Friction Ridges also in yellow. In the end, I really like the result - the model exceeded my expectations in terms of playability! 4 L motors in a combination with planetary wheel hubs and a LiPO battery give a lot of power, FlySky radio with GeekServos gives the perfect feeling of control. And I’m also happy with the bodywork - it’s not overloaded with details, but at the same time is not too simple. The only feature I wish it had - a locking differential on the rear axle (or even on both axles), but I don’t see an easy solution to add it. Fortunately, the suspension has good articulation, which partly compensates for the lack of differential locks. Video #1 Video #2