N1K0L4

Here you go. It seems to write K1t, KIt or Klt.

So I just finished installing a set of PU lights in my MOC when I saw that one LED wasn't working. After closer inspection I noticed that there were bare cables right on the exit from the black box between the connector and the LEDs. Than with help from a slim flat head screwdriver I managed to open the black box. There I saw the 2 bare wires crossing each other which I think shouldn't be happening. After I untangled the wires everything worked again. (I'll protect them properly later) It was interesting to finally see what was hiding in that black box as it was always in the way of something. I thought you guys would like to see it too :)

For almost every one of my models I make a camera mount somewhere on the car for my GoPro Hero 4 Session camera. Some of those were just for filming and video purposes and some become used as camera vehicles. Here are some of those. First one was my Mini Tracked Vehicle (MTV). It was built almost 2 years ago now and it competed in the Offroad category at the 2023 BuWizz gathering. Other than that it turned out to be very useful as a camera vehicle during the Mini Trail Trucks competition. Next up, a bit of a unexpected one. Before the Mini Racers competition during the 2024 BuWizz gathering we had practice time and of course all the people went on track at the same time which resulted in a lot of crashes and a lot of fun. I was driving my model there with the camera because why not, it was just practice after all. And the most recent one happened a month ago. I was going to a local Rally show and I brought my Mini Offroader with me so I can get the camera as close the the cars as I wanted. I got some pretty good footage from that and almost got the model stuck next to the track Have you ever used your LEGO creations as a camera vehicle? If so, fell free to share it here

Just finished the model digitally, we'll be building it soon :)

In the rear it's because I need to get a average rpm of 2 motors going to the front axle. Than I can set up a tracked steer module in the BuWizz app to have outer wheel spin faster while cornering. For the front wheels I'm still not sure what's better, with everything locked I sometimes get understeer so maybe open differential will allow one wheel to stay in contact with the ground? IDK, I have to test that.

So I had lost a bit of inspiration for the model back in May and I moved on to other projects. That why there was nothing from me here. Yesterday I was looking at my folders to get some inspiration what to build, than I found this and got some inspiration for it again. I did rethink the gearing and the drivetrain by comparing it to other similar models. I ended up using the same gear ratio as the RWD version, so 16:20 from the slow output. I can change that later if I really need more torque. I guess you were right :). I tried to keep most of the weight in between the wheels for better weight distribution. I'll try finishing the digital model this week as well as building the car. After that (if the car works) @Another Brick in the World and me will both build the car and maybe do a collab video (?). That's it for now, happy holidays!

Like this or you could try with a hairdryer or leave it on the sun for a bit (since you got summer now).

Awsome model, full of functions. I like this more than the official sets. Also that front bumper was a nice thing to add :). It depends on how bad the driving really is and what are the "symptoms". From what I can see, COM is quite high for a car this scale and quite far back too. That would suggest you have chronic understeer while driving on the road. Decoupling the motors should help with that and maybe add e-differential. You can also try cleaning and preheating the tires, these 49.5 x 20 mm usually have less grip than 43.2 x 20 mm ones.

In my case the gears never clicked as the weight of the model is basically pushing the gears together, but I'll consider your design if I'll be dealing with higher power.

Thanks! It doesn't fit like this, you would have to space out the wheels 1/2 a stud on each side because of the shape of the rims.

Thank you! Yeah, the drifting was very fun, looking forward to doing it next year too :)

Hello, so before I made the RWD version I had made a AWD version similar to this one. It had one major drawback, a poor steering angle. I did take it to the BuWizz Gathering and had fun with it there, but at the same time it was kinda frustrating not being able to turn properly. After that I built the RWD version which handled much better. One day @Alex Ilea shared a idea with me for getting rid of CV joints which he's using in one of his models. When I saw that I immediately got to designing the new chassis. Because of a different front axle, the wheels would be quite far from the steering pivot point which would take valuable space. Because of that I had to make my own rims which could support the tire over the gears. I ended up with this setup. This wheel ended up not being used so often as I replaced it with the 86652 rim when drifting. And this is the finished model. It retained most of the body from the RWD version but lost the interior. It also still has the opening rear hatch which is quite useful here for charging the battery. The main idea behind this model was to make a small AWD drift car for small indoor places. I consider this model a success in that regard. Specifications: 27 x 13 x 11 studs (21.6 x 10.4 x 8.9 cm) 2 PF L motors for drive 1 PU L motor for steering powered by BuWizz 3.0 Pro 1:2.77 gear ratio AWD without differentials Stud.io file: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-201401/N1K0L4/mini-42109-tg-rally-car-awd/ You can see more close ups and some drifting footage in the YT video: I hope you like it! Nikola

Clever way to do the rear suspension, do the flexaxles ever fall out?

Nice model! Do the front axles steer at different angles or are they the same?

Thanks! TBH, it really understeers on those smooth tiles which is a bit annoying. And the drifting is basically a necessity there. But on grippy surfaces it's really good.

Thank you!

Awesome model, I especially like the front hood, looks very good. I personally think the tires contribute a lot to the climbing preformance, it would be good to know if you tested it with the LEGO ones too to see the difference. In terms of electronics, I have one idea for the future. Since you're using your own motors and speed controllers, you could find a brushless setup that fits in PF L/Buggy motor/BuWizz motor housing. That would make it even more powerfull.

It is, I'm just waiting to be able to build the AWD one, that will be even more fun :) Thanks! :)

23%, from which are most some common parts + parts for the body. You can compare it and see the details on the Rebrickable page too. Thanks ;)

I'm using a GoPro Hero 4 Session and some tape. I usually use one 3D printed case with a pin hole for mounting it (I can send you the file if you want), but this time it was too complicated to integrate that.

Thanks! I get what you mean, that was my original idea, but due to its very limited space between the wheels (only 9 studs) this was the only solution. If you were to use some other PF power source you'd also need to redesign the other parts of the front because of a different servo motor used.

Thanks! Nope, on the gathering I had a AWD version, which isn't the same as one that is still to be built, but the body is the same.

Hello My first LEGO RC model was the 42109 Top Gear Rally car. Back when I got it, I was only starting out with building my own stuff, so the first MODs were..., let's just say not the best quality. But the goal was clear from the start, improve the its performance. The first "ok" MOD was 2 years ago when I first got some BuWizz components. I added independent suspension on all wheels and a BuWizz motor powering the rear wheels. It was again a bit questionable build quality, and it had A LOT of slack in the steering, but it was good overall. Few years forward and I again wanted to build something under that body. Than I got an idea of miniaturizing the whole car, making it more practical and agile. That's how I got to this model. It's really small at only 27 x 13 x 11 studs, exceeding my expectations for size. Speed is much better now, having more than twice the power and 1:3 gearing it's able to achieve up to 10 km/h. Even though it doesn't have a differential, it's surprisingly agile on grippy surfaces, but you do have to slide the back around on slippery surfaces either it understeers. Specifications and features: powered by BuWizz 3.0 Pro and 2 PF L motors geared 1:3 steered by PU L motor partly openable front hood openable rear hatch similar to Group B rally cars interior with 2 seats and a steering wheel 3 x 3 x 2 stud space under the seats for spare parts Instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-197632/N1K0L4/mini-42109-tg-rally-car-rwd/ Video showcasing the model: You also might be wondering why have I put "RWD" in the titles. That's because I'm working on a AWD version, which is currently finished only as a digital model. When I find enough time I'll build it, but it should be done this year. I hope you like it! Nikola

Yeahh... Most of RC cars these days are BuWizz powered. Maybe get some. They also sell their small model with one BuWizz motor and battery, you should check it out if you're looking for something faster.

I have a lot of small scale RC models on my Rebrickable page, you can check them out here: https://rebrickable.com/users/N1K0L4/mocs/ All of them are BuWizz powered though, not sure if you have those.