Lighti

my best bargain so far was surely a used pack with: combine harvester (8274), bulldozer (8275, only 2 studded panels missing), blue dump truck 8415 and 2 very small sets (tractor and forklift) all together for 50€. The post on a german site was just 3 minutes old and I was the first who called. and recently I got a complete 8043 for 60€, which had V2 IR receivers! (no clue how that happend, but I was pretty happy ;) )

Those wheels are slightly to big, at least they look somehow weird, as seen in the photshopped pic in the 41999 pimp my boss thread. I will try the ones from the 8285, for those exist even metallic silver lego rims. (but expensive ;) ) I tested the RC Buggy set to see if all the parts are working, and it drifts already with the rubber wheels on our wooden floor. So depending on the weight of the final bodykit, the final thing might drift as well. If it does, I will upload my first youtube video ;)

@seasider: sorry, but with those wheels it looks somehow, weird ;) but thanks for pointing me to the 41999 Pimp my Boss thread. There are some nice photoshoped pics with different wheels. And it seems without modifications of the body there are no wheels that really fit the scale. the ones from 8041 seem to small, best fitting I think are the ones from 8285. But I will have to do major modifications to the body, to lower the wheel arches so that it doesnt look so "high" well, no one said it would be easy ;)

that big? I thought the size of the 41999 body was slightly smaller than my 8070? It seems that my "size feeling" was totally wrong. Anybody happen to have a picture with those 2, for size comparison?

Hi, after I got out of my dark age, and after finishing a few official sets its time for my first real MOC, (beside motorizing my 8070). I really like the bodyworks of the 41999 crawler. And I got my hands on a used RC-buggy set. So the plan is, fit the bodyworks on a chassis based on the RC-receiver-unit driven by the 2 buggy motors. (different color for the body of course ;) maybe standard blue and white if the panels can be substituted) So the question to all of you professionals. What rims/tires would fit to the scale of the 41999 body if it was a normal car, not a crawler? (and yes, I will probably need to change the form of the mudguards to make it look "right") regards Lighti

I found an interesting article in the train tech forum as well, where some more testing was done with the 8878 link here. (it's even possible to use it as uninterruptable power supply in trains that go over powered tracks) so the final conclusion after phils answer and the infos in the train tech forum: 9V-12V is totally ok to charge, if the power supply provides 700mA or more.

ok sorry, since the topics are in different subforums, I thought asking multiple parts of the community would be ok. Wont happen again. But there is indeed different information about that topic, since someone in the technic forum told, below 9,5V is no charging, and some guys here say don't go above 10V. But it seems that 9V and 12V work perfectly fine if the charger delivers enough mA, and my 500mA are not enough. Is it ok to reply again in the thread in the technic forum, and post a link to this thread here? Since the information in the initial post is pretty helpful. @JopieK: that is indeed helpful, but doesn't solve my actual problem. The charger I used has the proper plug, but not enough current. I will buy a new one with multiple adapters and 1000mA.

ah you are right, my physics class was quite some years ago. then the the to low amp is the problem, thanks again... I will go for the 1A version then

I found a similar chart at the train tech forum, so I guessed 500mA at 12V would be ok. But it seems it is to low than, probably not charging at all. Thanks. I still refuse to pay 25€ for the 10V Lego charger, when an adjustable at local whatever-electronics store costs only 11€, beside that the shipping date on shop.lego.com is currently end of november. I just checked the homepage of the local store, they have only 600mA and 1000mA. Wouldnt 1000mA at 12V be to much?

I digged out this old thread, as I seem to have a problem charging the 8878 Box. I just got it last week, and search function brought me here when I was looking for a charger other than the 10V Lego one. From what I understood in a post in the train tech forumt, the 12V 500mA powersupply that came with my eneloop charger should do the job. It charges for over 8 hours now, and is still blinking. The Box itself came from bricklink, but it was bought as new and came sealed, so it should not be broken. Anyone else had trouble with the initial charge? or with a 12V charger? what should the normal time be with 12V and 500mA? thanks in advance...

I digged out this old thread, as I seem to have a problem charging the 8878 Box. I just got it last week, and search function brought me here when I was looking for a charger other than the 10V Lego one. From what I understood in the initial post, the 12V 500mA powersupply that came with my eneloop charger should do the job. It charges for over 8 hours now, and is still blinking. The Box itself came from bricklink, but it was bought as new and came sealed, so it should not be broken. Anyone else had trouble with the initial charge? or with a 12V charger? what should the normal time be with 12V and 500mA? thanks in advance...

I recently stumbled over a series of Unimog pictures, which might give people ideas for attachments/MODs. here you go: http://www.heise.de/autos/artikel/Mercedes-Unimog-Der-Profi-im-Einsatz-1542316.html?view=bildergalerie

I had only a few and smaller sets when I was a child. My parents didn't spend so much money on toys to get me a "flagship" set in the 90ies. But when I went to the toy stores with my girlfriend 2 years ago to get toys for my girlfriends (meanwhile wife ;) ) nieces, I always went to the lego technic stuff and was excited how "cool" it became. Once they had the 8070 car on display, and I explained all the functions to her, and guess which set "santa claus" got for me at xmas? ;) meanwhile I got myself a 8043, 8275 and currently building the 8110. Next project will be the incredible landrover 110.

the most rare parts are probably the 32 long axles, and for sure those 4x4 metallic silver radar dish things. as they appeared only in 2 sets, and are about 3-5€ per piece!

I would suggest using sanyo eneloops... (there are rebuilds from other companies with the same technique meanwhile, for example ansmann maxE) they are able to hold the voltage and current quite well over nearly the full "load". This is usually a problem of high mAh NiMH Batteries, they have by design for example 2800 mAh and 1.2V voltage, but after like the 1400 they drop below 1.1V which results in less power. And the eneloops hold their power over quite a long time (if I recall right, 80% over 1 year) so they sell them precharged. So you wouldn't have to recharge them everytime before usage if you just played a little bit 1 month ago.

I had this thread always in my browser favourites and hoped to see it finished once... its absolutely amazing! for me together with the tachikoma one of the best technic creations i have ever seen...

preordered already... thumbs up!

2): 2 votes 3): 1 votes 4): 1 votes 10): 1 votes 14): 2 votes

just registered to give you my vote, I love this robot! ;)

just one word... INCREDIBLE! <seriously jealous about building skills>

so the 8043 should become cheaper pretty soon? ;)

I did a quick google about their 3D printer, and it seems the smaller version (objet eden 350v) costs about 150000$ They use a eden 500v, but i bet that thing reduced their prototyping costs by a lot, and made it a lot faster as well... if i ever win the lottery, one of those things will be on the "stuff to buy" list ;) the resolution of that thing is just amazing...

so a last question about the speed control remote, do I change the direction of the motor with the "turntables" as well? or only the speed, and the direction with the small black switch? if it would be done by the switch, it would make it quite hard to steer with the same remote...

so the 8879 works fine with the normal IR receivers and XL/M motors, and basically enables the motors to be operated at different speeds? I found that hard to believe from and "electric" point of view, unless the normal remote has different speed settings as well... I dont have any IR receiver or remote yet, thats why I am asking, since speculating could end up somewhat expensive ;)

Hiho, im currently planning of motorizing a 8070 (i know there is a detailed video how to do so, but that would spoil the challenge ;) ) Since its currently my only of the new studless sets, i will have to buy plenty of parts. I was pleased that I found the motors, IR remotes and receivers on shop.lego.com to order them one by one, without having to buy a whole set... I plan to use an XL motor to drive, which i figured tend to "slip" weakly constructed gears due to high torque. I thought maybe starting it at slower speed with the 8879 remote might be a workaround for some of those problems, and being able to drive slower for maneuvering might be convinient as well. So the questions: is that possible, did anyone do that already? Regards Lighti