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THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

1gor

Eurobricks Grand Dukes
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Everything posted by 1gor

  1. I have this info from local AGCO dealer (I have visited them because I had some questions about Fastracs...). They also have Fendt (rear differential and transmission box as they call it pictured below), Massey Ferguson, Steyr... Shaft pictured in lower left corner goes directly to front differential and dark gray cylinder shaped part in the lower central part of picture acts similar to central differential, but it is not mechanically splitting torque and power, but hydrodrostically, something like white 24 tooth gear with clutch that "slips" when to high rezistance is present...only that real system distributes torque to wheel(s) that have higher redistense (traction). On street (distrybutors say that) trac uses mostly rear wheen drive. I hope that I did't derail your topic too much.
  2. When mining dump trucks are about, I have very limited knowledge; usually limited to some Liebherr or CAT models (sometime Terex occured to my mind), but generally they are out of my scale...closest to your models I can get is probably 1:18 scaled Volvo front loader 220 that I plan very long ago based on my 42030 set, but could fix cable issue on XL motor only few months ago and have very turbulent (and chaotic) time last year...
  3. Real cars have practically same diameter wheels at the front and back, and mostly tractors have some 25% smaller tires at the front, so locking central differential is not used on tractors; they have more hydrostatic torque splitter for front axle (usually rear is directly powered), so locking differential is not the brigthest idea here; real tractors have something like this part (but haven't tested it yet)
  4. Jorge, before I comment your new baby dump truck, I suggest you to make something like Jorge's technic corner, and ask @Milan to integrate your previous MOCs (and their development) into new tread. Interesting concept with steering. Honestly I never noticed such steering on real machine, but I didn't see everything... kind regards
  5. No Monster jam trucks this year
  6. Up to some extent central diffrrential can compensate front wherl overspin, but you have to calculate correlations between front and rear tires and use approximate upgearing or downgearing, Example when combining 81mm and 107mm you have to use 12 to 28 tooth differential at the rear and 20 to 28 tooth differential gear at the front. When compared rear to front tires you get 107/81 ~~ 1.321 relation and closest way to maintain similar speeds on differentials is 20/12 ~~ 1.66. Diffefence between 1.321 and 1.66 can compensate with central differential...
  7. Something red with blue seat at the top of station has revield the reason you chose this for TC26 It looks cool in technic BTW
  8. You can make all in the same line, but make front suspended axle like on Unimog U400 using ball joint...
  9. Probably your colir combination blinded me; another thing - this chasdis will be a tail dragger or sled...tractors have a bit raized rear part and rear axle should be just one stud higher (107 - 81 = 26; 26 / 2 = 13 mm which is 1.625 studs -> 13 / 8)
  10. To use 4wd with 81 mm at front and 107mm rear, you have to use 12 to 28 tooth at front differential (as you made) but use 20 to 28 tooth at rear because rear tire has bigger rolling circumference (front 81mm × 3.14, rear 107 x 3.14)
  11. Perhaps adding tracks would make it more usable on snow and ice...
  12. Cute little trac; fender problem is why I make modrls that uses CLAAS tires and use #3 connectors (despite fenders ended twice thick as it should be)
  13. Specially Dominator 370, but we have to wait when it will be released (and of course available)
  14. It ended up very good. I like color sheme (reminds me on my Unimog )
  15. My phone has different opinion
  16. Perhaps you could save 62.4 from cutting by putting chain and hose inside like I made it here for my 1:18 Unimog implement carrier
  17. After one evening of testing I must admit that pulling power is really great, no skipping gear and it pulls very very smooth, but solution of front axle is far from perfect; when turning to the left sometimes gear rack connectors on reduction hit lower 5 x 7 frame and tractor doesn't steer. Also XL motors are to big for such small model (22 studs wheelbase), so I can put battery box inside (chassis is 1 stud to thick). When I try to make chassis stiff enough, then middle chassis part is 10 studs thick (but according proportions it should be 8 studs) to mantain 17 studs width (chassis is always 2500mm wide, so 17 studs in Lego; max width over wheels is 2900mm so some 20 studs which fits perfect). It seems that I'll have to keep XL motors for harvesters and trucks (that I plan in future...) and switch to 2 PF L motors...
  18. Or if you could find someone who needs C+ motors and (smart)hub, but doesn't need the rest (Audi) and use PF elements from own inventory
  19. IMHO it has lots of usable parts (excluding PU components in my case); tires are great for front end loaders, hubs are very strong (but have ball joint ) and new short CV joints are blessing (if only I had at least one), new Daytona diffs...
  20. That was my hope last few years, but I'm not optimistic; they could not release 94.3 x 38 tire (despite having mold with different tread)...so I'm happy that I made compromise solution with existing parts...it is a kind of rotten compromise because there is no space to use new stronger CV joints to connect front axle to chassis
  21. Actually I have 2 frames 5 x 7 and differential is also braced with 2 yellow gears 14 tooth to prevent skipping. I didnt test it with 10kg weights, but it is ok for normal trailer etc...
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