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Everything posted by Tamas Juhasz
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[WIP] Maz 535 - 1:15 - RC
Tamas Juhasz replied to Tamas Juhasz's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingThanks for kind words Peter. That wobble is ok for me, and the reason: if I use the the pins in the driving part, then it's bigger in diamater than 3 studs. Currently, it's also bigger a very bit, that's why I placed also the arms in A shape, to have enough space for it. (In every strong, technic-built U-joint, the problem is, it requires a bit more space in diamater than 3 studs, so you have to give 5 studs, or 4 if it's possible.) I think I answered the liftarm question, too. When I experimented with the rear suspension, I tried the version, which uses only 5L levers and 7 studs width just before the rim, but had some friction between the end of the arms and the rim. Beside that, currently I have a limited amount of these 5L levers, and I want to keep some, if it will be needed elsewhere, as in 90% of my mocs. Another reason for this shape is the A-arm like looking, yes. I'll se how strong it will be, but should be enough, as it's strongly connected in both ends to structural parts. Thanks. To avoid misunderstandings, if it works well: I tried out, as can be seen in the IRL pictures, and it worked surprisingly smooth and well. Low torque, high torqe, doesn't matter. Try out with the 8880 hubs, with that angle in the swingarm in the pictures, and then you can see the proper working. The driving ring part isn't offer much angle between input and output, the rest is done by 8880's homocinetic joint. That's why I use them together. (Only the driving ring itself is really strong, as homocinetic joint, but offers a pretty low angle.) I experimented a bit, to adjust the axial spacing of the driving ring (that's why you can see the old 14t gear, as spacer in the pictures), and when it became good, offered the required angle for 2-3 studs of suspension travel with this setup. Even in compressed position, there is no stress in the driving ring or any other drivetrain part. I was really happy, when I came up with this, finally, the front suspension could be done with these goals: - independent suspension - strong (brick built joint) - narrow (the trucks maximum width is 24 studs) - no portal or planetary hub - close pivot point to wheel - 2-3 studs suspension travel - hold the rim strongly to avoid it's axial movement I searched a lot, but there are no other solution in technic which fulfill these requirements. In fact, there are many live axles, but a very few ideas, solutions for heavy duty independent suspension front drives, which are enough narrow and compact to keep the real trucks proportions.
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[WIP] Maz 535 - 1:15 - RC
Tamas Juhasz replied to Tamas Juhasz's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingI make this moc first of all in LDD, and I'M trying out the important working parts. Here you can see the front axle, in LDD an IRL: With blue, I marked the moving parts in steering (except the white hubs): Front drive, marked with green: As you can see, there are minimal torque in the 12 t bevel gear, and maximal in the 40t gear's axle. In real life: Many builders think, 8880's drive is weak. It is, if you use the 3 or 4 L cardans at the other end. But it's strength can be raised extremely, if you use the gearbox gear selector (red in the pictures) and 1L long bush parts, as a semi-homocinetic joints. The 8880's homocinetic joints in the other end can handle surprisingly lot of torque. In the test, at the end the rim rotated around the RC4WD custom 1,9" tyres. So, it will does it's job. This solution has two main advantages: very compact (width in goals can be done), and gives the needed suspension travel. Beside these, has Ackermann geometry in steering, and the pivot point is pretty close to the center of the wheel. To prevent the ball joint's pop out from the 8880's hub, I'll put there small 3 mm D flex hoses. The 6L steering links will be placed inverted way, to get stronger connection. The front axle unit with outer structure: Rear axles These are even more robust in driving than the front axles. I experimented with many brick-built U-joints, homocinetic joints, and this one won, it behaves as a semi-homocinetic joint: Yellow: swinging parts of the moving parts during the working of suspension. Green: rotating parts of the moving parts during the working of suspension. Orange: swingarms and wheel hubs
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[WIP] Maz 535 - 1:15 - RC
Tamas Juhasz replied to Tamas Juhasz's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling@Didumos69: thanks for the info, that sounds real, if the beam is rigid, the tyres give enough spring effect. I'll put a studfull or a studless beam there, will be as rigid as Lego. @ Agrof: Yes, will coming soon, about the front drive, and some LDD renders. I fround a really strong and compact solution with 8880's hubs.
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[WIP] Maz 535 - 1:15 - RC
Tamas Juhasz replied to Tamas Juhasz's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingYou know well, it has simple A-arms / double wishbone system in front and rear. The main differences are in the springs. In the front, there are torsion bars, as can be seen in this model: .. and shock absorbers for all front wheels. The rear wheels are linked together, in each side. That big beam is a bit flexible I think, works a little as spring in the back. So the rear suspension: http://s32.photobuck...ension.jpg.html It's very easy to build this suspension. Everywhere will be A arms, and in the front I'll put the yellow shocks, with place for additional ones, if needed, and in the rear I'll make simply the bogies to get the wheels linked. The harder part is the drive system, to be enough strong and to fit in the relatively small place (the truck will be only 24 studs wide, and has huge wheels). Drive system: I won't make portal gearboxes. This model has to contain the big RC unit, two RC buggy motors, 1 LiPo battery, 1 Receiver, at least two M motors, all of these in the front part, above the 4 front wheels. I just want to say with this, the space is very limited. My goal isn't to make it authentically working, but to build it reliable, robust, and proportional. But, of course, there will be large gearing just before the wheels, so, yes, a torque reducing gearbox will be there, but with normal gearing (spur-gears, bevel gears). And, of course because of RC there will be no fake engine, it's a compromise, we know well. But, I'll make the cabin, at least the driver's seat, working steering wheel, openable doors. The roof will be partly openable, to switch the RC unit on-off, and for changing the batteries.
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[WIP] Maz 535 - 1:15 - RC
Hi all! I present my newest project, which is among my biggest ones ever. I build the monstrous Maz 535, inspired mainly by real life Maz (537, because there are no working 535 any more, if I know well), and a bit of Spintires. I know about this heavy truck before spintires, too, but when the tech demo released, I could finally "drive" it, simulating a bit the behavior of this truck. It's an awesome and indestructible machine, a real russian cold war truck. So it shouldn't be missing from my mocs. I build in 1:15 scale, which means the 108 mm tyres. Of course, in this size I'll use again the crawler tyres, RC4WD rock crusher XT's, and maybe later I'll buy a more authentic looking military tyres. I'll make the tractor truck, so there will be no cargo platform in the back. The real life vehicle: ---> this will be my version Thanks to spintires, we have some good looking high quality render, so I can make the details properly: http://www.simulasyonturk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/spin-tires-maz535finihmodel1.jpg http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1Lya0MYqf-I/UJXplkmcyuI/AAAAAAAAALQ/aKsF8vN25O8/s1600/maz535_04.jpg http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oRD07JncgzY/UJXpgYwP83I/AAAAAAAAALE/A1tpVtJo1Gk/s1600/maz535_03.jpg https://i.ytimg.com/vi/sRDnX2OQ37I/maxresdefault.jpg My goals: - 1:15 scale --> 108 mm custom wheels - 8x8/4 (first two axles steered) - Radio controlled with RC buggy system, 1 RC unit, 2 RC motors - very robust drivetrain and steering - proportional looking, with model body and details, as close to the original as possible - 24 studs width at the wheels and body - full authentic (independent in front and semi-independent in rear) suspension with minimum 2-3 studs of suspension travel - no portal or planetary hub - 2 speed gearbox controlled by the RC unit's servo - working towing cable, with heavy winch and hook (metal) - working headlights - dark green color There will be pictures about the process soon, first I make the front axles and the main placing of components, steering. I collected a pretty large amount of dark green bircks, tiles, etc., so the color shouldn't be a problem. Fortunately, there are curved dark green bricks, to make the curved edges in the top and front. The gearbox would be a sliding type, and it's movement will be done by the servo of RC unit. To help in this process, and fix the slifing axle in the second gear's position there will be magnets somewhere. By default, the gearbox will be in first gear, when the servo is in 0 position, so it will be reliable under torque. The shifting to second gear this way will be an additional extra, if you want to do. It's a heavy truck (will be about 3 kg), so even with robust drivetrain I think it won't be capable of doing trial/heavy terrain, but if a medium can be done, that's far enough for me. If a 30° slope and a terrain with 3-4 studs high obstacles is no problem, then I reached my goal with it's off-road capabilities. Comments and questions, ideas, etc. are appreciated, as always.
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International Truck Trial competition - 2016.05.07 - Hungary
Tamas Juhasz replied to Tamas Juhasz's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingYou and Mihai are welcome anytime in the future, too. We enjoyed this competition and meeting as much as you. Maybe, one day there will be a much bigger international race with more countries and official support. Yes, we also learn from every TT race, and go home always with new experiences, ideas (and broken or missing parts sometimes ). No, they weren't allowed, they suck on TT stages compared to wheeled ones. So we aren't planning to make them allowed in the future, too. Such as fully tracked vehicles, they are simply not for trial, as they also can't be seen in real TT races.
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International Truck Trial competition - 2016.05.07 - Hungary
Tamas Juhasz replied to Tamas Juhasz's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingAs I promised, the photos, all of them in one folder:
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International Truck Trial competition - 2016.05.07 - Hungary
Tamas Juhasz replied to Tamas Juhasz's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingThank you guys. It was fun, yeah. Mihai's Tatra was on repair, yes. But after that, it worked, just made more sense to compete with the lime one in the next stages.
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International Truck Trial competition - 2016.05.07 - Hungary
Tamas Juhasz replied to Tamas Juhasz's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingThanks. 7 participants were there, with 9 trucks, that not so small, but you are right, and the reason is time, we had about a month for this event. And time again, because some of the usual participants simply hadn't time for it now.
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International Truck Trial competition - 2016.05.07 - Hungary
Hi all! Some days ago, there was a little talk about an international Truck Trial race in Zblj's topic. So, the competition happened, it was a great time, to meet each other again (most of us were in the first international TT meeting, in Keszthely, 2011). It was a bit of special event. The idea came from Mihai Dreve (Braker23 here), He planned a trip to Hungary, and asked us about a TT race. Then Zblj joined us, and became an international event with 3 countries: Romania, Slovenia, Hungary. I'll be advertise here, if there will be another international TT meeting, organized by us (Hungarian Lego Truck Trial Club / Malug). This was the third international Truck Trial themed meeting in Hungary, in 7th of May, 2016. The location was the edge of Budapest, the Harmashatarhegy. It's our usual and most used place for TT, has many advantage, like large area, large variety of terrain, hills, stones, logs, etc. Generally, our TT club is mostly private, it's a closed discussion (rules, location, day) usually, and we only publicize the advertisement (with final rules, etc.) of the race. We know about the possible participants, they are in the discussion. Luckily, Agrof, and Lipko could also join us, so this event became a little Eurobricks meeting, too. Special thanks to Agrof for the awesome first prize! Can be seen at 18:21 in the video below. Thank you, Peter! I put every important information, moments, good photos, shots, trucks, builders, results, and as many fun, as I found - in this video: Watch in 1080p, with fullscreen: Hope you will enjoy the video. More pictures, galleries will arrive soon, I'll put them here. I made another version of the video, with the original sounds, if someone needs, ask me in pm, and I'll send the dropbox link. Comments, questions always welcomed.
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Zero's workshop
Tamas Juhasz replied to Zerobricks's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingThanks for the info Zblj. About the race, details, everything, ask me in pm, since I'm the main organizer of this event. Next time I'll make a topic, but it's a kind of special event. First, it was only a meeting with Mihai Dreve (Braker23 here), then Jernej joined us, and became an international event. I'm happy to see here large interesting, I'll be advertise here, if there will be another international TT meeting. Agrof, Lipko and every hungarian builder: we have a well-working forum too, there are usually a topic for the forecoming TT events, competitions: http://www.malug.hu/comxs/index.php TT section: http://www.malug.hu/...forum.php?f=200 If you don't find, ask there in the last race's topic, or better ask me, because nowadays I'm the organizer of every TT. And.. our TT club is private, it's a closed discussion (rules, location, day) usually, and we only publicize the advertisement (with final rules, etc.) of the race. We know about the possible participants, they are in the discussion. As I mentioned in our forum, everyone can join us, just ask us (me). I had to say, we haven't counted much with visitors until now, but I can promise, the future races will get a public topic, so everyone can join us, who wants.
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[MOC] 1:7 scale RC model of old Unimog 401
Tamas Juhasz replied to Tamas Juhasz's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingThanks. Well.. those fenders are surprisingly stable, I don't even remember I had to adjust them during the tests, ride. I like to build unique/famous/legendary vehicles, and imho it's much more like that than any of today's production cars, off-roaders.
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[MOC] 1:7 scale RC model of old Unimog 401
Tamas Juhasz replied to Tamas Juhasz's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingThanks again guys. I got a massive amount of these dkgreen bricks, more mocs will come including these. First of all off-roaders, military vehicles. I'm also planning to make more mocs with trans clear windshield. This idea worth a try, if I build a vehicle again with narrow tyres, I'll try. What I don't like in the Xerion tyres, that's the shiny surface, the hard material. I know, nowadays its normal, but in this set it's more visible, at least for me. I really hope, TLC will bring back those good old rubber material tyres.
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Servo problem?
Tamas Juhasz replied to technicfan's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingThis problem aslo came up by my receivers. All of my servos work with the rest of them, but some receivers seems to be "older", or a little "under the limit of servos". I have 5 receivers, 4 of them are V1s. The servos don't work with 2 of the V1s. If anyone knows, exactly why, let us know. One thing is sure: servos must work with V2 receivers, this problem is just in case of V1s. With other words: the lack of working in V1s is not a failure in working, because they are older. But if they aren't working with V2s, then the receiver is faulty. Servos also can be faulty, but the chance is very low for that, this problem is caused by the receivers.
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[MOC] 1:7 scale RC model of old Unimog 401
Tamas Juhasz replied to Tamas Juhasz's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingThanks all the kind words. About L motor.. yes, it's worth to choose for drive. Nearly as powerful as XL motor (we know the numbers), but much smaller. I needed a relatively small, fast and strong driving motor. Because it's sliding, and there is really no additinal space, I can use only one. At least this number is more realistic. The ratio is 1:5 in the axle, and the gearbox has 1:3 and 1:1. So final ratios are the following: 1:15 in first gear, 1:5 in second. As you can see, 15 times reduction is enough to crawl through obstacles, but it's not a trial truck, too heavy and weak for a hard trial stage. Only 3 gears. --> as efficient drivetrain as possible in this model. And big gears, they are more efficient than small ones. I don't think I told any new things.
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[MOC] 1:7 scale RC model of old Unimog 401
Hello all! It's been a while, I posted here anything, but now I'll try to upload my works more recently. I start with this Unimog 401, which is the oldest Unimog with Merecdes-Benz star. This one has also an "Ochsenkopf" (ox head) in the hood, which was later removed in the next generations. The building time took about 2 weeks at all, and this is my first model which got the special dark green color, to get close to the original's painting. I ordered several types of these bricks, more models will come in this color. I chosed for building the 1:7 scale, with the 108 mm RC4WD rock crusher XT wheels. They aren't Lego, but as far as I can see nowadays it's normal in tyres, and the look is better imho with these. Goals: Llooking and working authentically, as close as possible to the real thing, beside of off-road capabilities and remote control. Main functions: Motorized: driving, steering, gear change Automatic: steering wheel, piston engine, PTO in front and rear Manual functions: openable hood, doors, rear side Working: One Lego PF L motor drives, one M steers. The 2 speed linear gearbox is operated by a M motor. Steering wheel and suspension also works. The original has rigid axles with torque tubes, so I chosed also them. Four of 8466's springs were taken apart, so I got 4 coil springs to get the authentical look in machinery of axles. I also attached differential imitating disks. The rear view mirrors work a little. One L motor drives the whole thing, it's sliding in two axles, because of the 2 speed (1:3 and 1:1 ratios) linear gearbox. This way there is no need for driveshaft length adjuster between the driving motor, and the incoming axle of the gearbox, but the rear PTO has one from 6 holed pulleys. There is a PTO also in the front with a pulley, like in the original. The working L4 piston engine has mini pistons from 2L axles and half bushes. Details: I wanted to build as details as possible both inside and outside, like: detailed interior, steering wheel, stickers (for instruments too), gear change levers in the cab, handbrake lever, mudguards seen from inside, fuel tank, number plates, lights, seats, rear wood cover, detailed engine room, tanks for brake, exhaust, etc. Pictures I made it in the winter season, that's why you can see snow as background: https://www.flickr.c...157667176594155 http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=563725 With dark green wheel covers: There are anti-roll bars to prevent rolling, the vertical 6L links connect them with the axles: The diff imitators: Of course I made a video, too: Hope you like it.
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[MOC] Mini tanks from WW1 and WW2
8. Little Willie Little Willie was a prototype in the development of the British Mark I tank. Constructed in the autumn of 1915, it was the first completed tank prototype in history. Little Willie is the oldest surviving individual tank. /Wikipedia/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Little_Willie Since it was made in 1915, now it has the 100 years anniversary, this was a must have in my collection. Full size image: https://www.flickr.c...eposted-public/ Full size image: https://www.flickr.c...eposted-public/ Full size image: https://www.flickr.c...eposted-public/ The build was pretty hard. The form seems to be easy, but there are so many characteristic details that it became difficult to make the proportions and connecting points at the same time. Has no rollers, and two "holes" in the track carrier frame, like the original. In the top, I made the turret connection ring too, that's a pearl dk gray technic disk. Little Willie has two wheels to help in the turning, sadly there is no better alternative, than those 2 studs diamater round tiles. Technic pulleys and medieval coach wheels would be too big. I tried to make as less studs visible, as I could, imho the result is satisfying. The last few posts were written all by me, are there no other ww1 Lego builders/fans except me? Eurobricks is the biggest forum, that should be proven. I'm courios what do you think about ww1 mini tanks.
- [MOC] Mini tanks from WW1 and WW2
- [MOC] Mini tanks from WW1 and WW2
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[MOC] Mini tanks from WW1 and WW2
Newest: 23. Panther Full resolution picture: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panther_tank It's one of the most famous and succesful (German) tanks in ww2, many people consider it as the best medium tank. The building was pretty challenging, it's always hard to create these types of front parts with the driving wheels and angled frontal armor. The rollers are overlapped, and I tried to catch it's angled armor on the sides, back and turret. I also made a camouflaged version: 24. Panzer I Full resolution picture: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panzer_I Panzer I's were used in the beggining of ww2, in large numbers, for many missions, purposes. It was very light and fast, but also weak against other tanks (later). Had no guns, only one or two MGs. The build was easy because of it's size, but also very limited, in very small tanks, like this, there are less possibilities to create a form, a detail. 25. Panzer II Full resolution picture: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panzer_II A bigger brother of the Panzer I, this time with a 20 mm main gun. Was widely used in whole ww2, and many variants were produced. It was quite easy to build, only the rollers were challanging because of the placing. and... I reworked my old Panzer 38(t), which now look better (imho): old one: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Mini-Tanks/Panzer-38t/panzer38t_800x450.png
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[MOC] Mini tanks from WW1 and WW2
21. M18 Hellcat Full resolution picture: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M18_Hellcat M18 Hellcat was the fastest and most succesful US tank destroyer (and armed vehicle) in ww2. Thanks to it's light construction, it was capable to reach a speed of more than 90 km/h. With Lego, the build was quite easy until the making of the turret, that has a tricky shape for Lego parts. This results contains some compromises. I tried to make the authentic decals too. Building instructions for M18 Hellcat: http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/419404 (below) 22. Char B1 (bis) Full resolution picture: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Char_B1 Char B1 bis was an interwar tank, which was used also in ww2 by the French army. This is considered as the last tank with similar shape to ww1 tanks. Had two guns, a big, 75 mm howitzer in the hull, and a smaller one (47 mm) in the turret. Was quite succesful in ww2 compared to it's obsolete design. This Lego model was hard to build because of it's track covering plates (they are made with these panels: http://alpha.bricklink.com/pages/clone/catalogitem.page?P=30413#T=C ). I tried to give it a characteristic camouflage too.
- [MOC] Mini tanks from WW1 and WW2
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[MOC] Mini tanks from WW1 and WW2
18. Hetzer light tank destroyer Full resolution picture: https://www.flickr.c...eposted-public/ It was a very succesful ww2 german tank destroyer, based on the excellent Czech construction, the LT vz. 38. Also, it's one of the most commonly known german tank destroyer. During the building, the hardest part was of course the angled top part with the gun. Lot of compromises were needed, but as I can see, I think I caught the character of this tank. Building instructions for Hetzer: http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/418119 (below) 19. KV-2 heavy tank Full resolution picture: https://www.flickr.c...eposted-public/ KV-2 was a heavy russian experimental tank during ww2. It was equipped with a terrifying 150 mm gun, and had a very characteristic shape with it's tall turret. It's a must have for my collection. The turret was easy to build, since it's relatively big. Most of my building time was spent to the chassis, especially to make the front part. Building instructions for KV-2: http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/418120 (below) 20. VK 4501 (Tiger P) Full resolution picture: https://www.flickr.c...eposted-public/ It's the legendary Porsche Tiger, which was on of the two prototypes of the most famous tank, the Tiger 1. It was more complicated with it's ICE-electric drive (failed during many tests), that's why Henschel's design was put into final production. It was one of the easiest build, I combined the chassis of my Ferdinand with the turret of my Tiger 1: Building instructions for VK 4501 Tiger P: http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/418121 (below)
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[MOC] Mini tanks from WW1 and WW2
Thanks! Give me an email adress, and I'll send you the instructions for all my current uploads. (you can't use currently pm) Anyway, for future uploads, you can find for most of my mini tanks instructions here: http://www.mocpages....lder.php/192586 I always update this album, the ones you see here posted, are in mocpages (and Flickr) too.
- [MOC] Mini tanks from WW1 and WW2
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