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Tamas Juhasz
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Everything posted by Tamas Juhasz
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Thanks! I'm trying to do my best to make them as recognisable as possible in this size. The small ones are harder, I have less possible variations to make details. I'm a bit ahead of making them, than those, you see here. Ferdinand is already done, because of your request, I'll upload it tomorrow with LDD file as instructions. If anyone has another request, let me know. -
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An uploaded backup would be nice, thanks in advance, who knows how long will be this problem actual. Have you worked in offline mode? If not, it's interesting, because if it's a general problem, should appear by all. (but it's good to hear your LDD is ok )
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Same here. I only have red color in the palette in extended mode. Does TLG know about this very annoying problem? When will they fix it (ok, stupid question, but it's urgent)? Edit: I found the palette directory in windows7: Computer/C/Users/Username/AppData/Roaming/LEGO Company/LEGO Digital Designer/Palettes I only have there "LDD-10.lif" - 1,48 MB.
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Hi! I thought about the counting of weight in LDD. The program shows the parts number, the amount, so why not also weight? For example: you select 65 bricks of your 250 parts in the moc, and LDD shows, it's 74,5 g. (or kg, doesn't matter) It will be useful to make rigid constructions, to see, is some part of the moc too heavy for support bricks, or not. What do you think? (If there is already a program compatible with LDD, which counts the weight, please let me know)
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13. T28/T95 It was an experimental super heavy tank destroyer by the US army. In 1945 it became "105 mm Gun Motor Carriage T95", but one year later it was renamed to "T28 Super Heavy Tank". It was designed to break through German defenses of the Siegfried Line. More info: http://en.wikipedia....uper_Heavy_Tank Big picture: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=6228258 The building wasn't easy in this case. The two narrow front track part, which goes ahead from the body, is covered in side with armor plates, but it can't be wider than 2 studs and the cover plate. The track chains are connected with strings (not shown in the render) to the front. It's incredibly wide, my first 7 studs wide in ww2 series. The dark bluish gray 1x1 round tiles are in reality pearl dark gray. This tank has a very characteresitic gun and gun mointing, that was easy to made. The front armor around the cannon is nearly impoosible to build proportional and authentically. If you have any ideas how to make it better, feel free to tell me here. I made variations there two hours long.
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6. Schneider B16 Saint Chamond The second French heavy tank in ww1, equipped with hybrid (IC engine --> generator --> electric motors in the wheels) drive system. More info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint-Chamond_%28tank%29 Big picture: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=6228256 I started the building with the tracks, it was the most difficult part. I used again the small binoculars as support wheels. These tanks were often more colorful than German an British ones, so I thought about building it also in colors. I attended to use only existing colors of parts, everything is official in this mini tank. The front armor is also hard to build, it's angled in two directions, so I used slopes and angled plates to create it. Hope you like it. If you need more pictures or LDD file, just ask here.
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Thank you! Hello! I'm sorry for the late answer in mini tanks of ww2 topic. I was pretty busy in the last months, and I nearly forgot about them. But since now, I can deal with them again, and I'll watch the topic more frequently. Good to hear you like them. The wheels of t34 and stug 3 are normal racers rims from 4s wide lego sets: Pz3 series: http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=93593 T-34: http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=93595 But I will change it on the Panzer 3 and 4 series, because these rims are a bit big, with these the track section is too high. Only one plate diference in height can cause unproportional looking in this size. T-34 is ok. Tiger1 turret: Everything fits well there, but I know, it's easy to identify the needed part incorrectly. The same happened with one of my hungarian clubmates. So the secret is in part: http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=15573 This one has stud connection in the middle too. In ldd, I used also this. I built about 10-12 of the mini tanks, to see, are they enough strong in reality. Except one/two, they were. I surprised, how strong the Sherman is. When you build it in LDD, it doesn't seems to be strong in every cases. It could be also vice cersa: in LDD it seems to be ok, but nearly falls apart in reality. I think only that one can build models in LDD which are enough strong compared for the pre-set goals, who has a few years practice in real build. LDD designing can be tricky, when you came to the real building part.
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Tamas Juhasz replied to AndroTech's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingAgree. This is, why it seems to be less precise. I built some steering with linkages, and even the most rigid and well designed constructions have more slack than rack and pinion. The reason is in the geometry: you use a steering liftarm to push/pull the links, and in most cases it rotates only 60-90 degrees. With gearing it's so less rotation that small backlashes between gears (and steering hub section) cause much more backlash in total (in the wheel). We can make a mod with a bit better linkages, but not much. In reality, there is a rigid metal construction everywhere around the steering. They have practically no backlash. In Lego, everything can deform and has a little play, slack. They add up and cause the final result.
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Tamas Juhasz replied to AndroTech's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingTo make clear the truck suspension theme, there are some independent type suspension also in trucks, for example: http://www.volvotruc...suspension.aspx But as mentioned before, they are rare, and they start to appear only nowadays. Beside Tatras solution, old russian military trucks often had double A arm independent suspensions: http://data3.primepo..._103_of_126.jpg http://upload.wikime...sloe)_pic13.JPG (independent only in front) http://i2.ce.cn/cv/p...29250998472.jpg (full independent) We can say, in general, except few rare exceptions, (medium and heavy) trucks have rigid axles, and non independent suspensions. This 42043 set also has full rigid axles with pretty proper and realistic linkages.
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Tamas Juhasz replied to Tamas Juhasz's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingAn example of mounting this gearbox into a moc: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=80713 I get some request to make instructions, so I made it in LDD: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=551597 www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Ideas-Technologies/DefiniteGearbox/Instructions/gearboxv3-instructions.lxf The pictures in the folder show everything, but if you have questions, feel free to ask here. Important: the placing of gearbox operator motors is just an example.
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Tamas Juhasz replied to Tamas Juhasz's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingSorry for the late answer, I was busy. I also thought about this, but I fear it needs redesigning the whole moc, and the leftover time isn't enough for it. Maybe I'll make later a completely different vehicle from 8264 with "bumper control".
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Tamas Juhasz replied to Tamas Juhasz's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingYes, with 6 wheels imho it's easy to think about a road roller, or truck. I wondered that weren't any road rollers from 8264 before my entry. No problem, I was just curious about your remark. You are right, (especially) with predetermined parts a moc has always some compromises. That's about Lego and technic. My question is still here: Would it look much better without the long axle? Or if I remove only the front part of the axle?
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Tamas Juhasz replied to Tamas Juhasz's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingThanks for kind comments. @Alasdair Ryan: as others wrote, it's easy to understand the working method, see the end of the video, which clearly shows the rod's function. Look & long axle: even B models doesn't look so good (Lego has some terrible), imho it adds more functionality than less good looking. The color shame isn't random: above the front black wheels it's black, in the lighter areas it's LBG and yellow. If it weren't, how would you switch on/off? The BB's switch is terrible for play. Anyway, I ask: would it look much better without the long axle? Or if I remove only the front part of the axle? @5imon: Why is the empty front and bigger rear part a critical point? Look around real road rollers, they are all made with this structure: (this was my inspiration)
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Tamas Juhasz replied to Jim's post in a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling25. Road Roller Original set: 8264 (released in 2009) Parts used: 505 from 575 Features: - motorized driving (PF M motor) - automatic forward-backward movement between two walls - can do some real road rolling because of it's large mass - manual steering with linear actuator - openable rear cover plate Leftover parts: Discussion thread: http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=102847 VIDEO:
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Hi all! Nowadays I have very limited time for making mocs (this is also the reason for less activity here, but maybe you didn't forget me : ), but finally I made and uploaded my entry for TC5 contest. It's a road roller from 8264: ROAD ROLLER - 505 of 575 parts used - motorized - automatic forward-backward movement between two walls - manual steering with linear actuator - openable rear cover plate - can do some "real" road rolling work I listed my sets, which can be used for the contest, and I relaized, I have mostly small sets with 100-150 parts. Then I found 8264, with optimal part count, 575. So this is my only set which is good for making an entry. Interesting things: it has nerly no gears (only a turntable and one 8t gear), but contains one PF M motor with battery box. I didn't want to switch the model on-off with touching the BB's switch inside (it's hard to make precisely, and uncomfortable), so I began to think with some external control mechanism. This ended up with a long rod, if you push it, the road roller goes towards. This also stops the vehicle when it reaches a wall, it's some kind of protection for the motor. Steering positions: The really small drivetrain: Leftover parts: I made it in LDD --> instructions: www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Road-roller/z-8264-instructions.lxf VIDEO: Here you can see the behaviour of the mechanism --> not always predictable Hope you like it. Comments are always welcomed.
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I did some experiments with custom stickers. The A7V got german Iron Cross and a skull & crossbones sticker, like original A7Vs: http://www.oldgloryminiatures.com/prodimages/WWI/WWI-119.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AXwgcBiHkjo/US6Ml5QGwsI/AAAAAAAAAOM/te_ylpzk5bo/s1600/panzerkampfwagen-a7v-heavy-tank-02.jpg Large picture: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Mini-Tanks/A7V/a0-a7v-stickers.png What do you think? Does it look better, or not? The skull could be more autenctic, but hard to find a good one.
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New one: 5. M1918 Ford 3 Ton The first US tank in series production. It was rather a "tank destroyer", because it has no rotating turret. More info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_3-Ton_M1918 Big picture: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Mini-Tanks/Ford-1918/ford-1918.png As it's a very small tank, the building was tricky. The Lego track chains are too wide (the original has very narrow tracks), but there isn't other option (except of rubber bands, which could be fixed hardly, and the look wouldn't be good).
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The promised ones: 11. Panzerkampfwagen IV The most used german battle tank, served during the entire WW2. Info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panzer_IV Big picture: http://www.brickshel...IV/panzeriv.png The building started with the base of Panzer III. It has two more small rollers, bigger tracks and taller upper part. I think the small LBG lever fits here as front mounted machine gun. 12. Sherman M4A1 Sherman is one of the most famous ww2 tanks, it was THE tank for US army. Produced in large numbers with simple manufacturing technology, was reliable --> was succesful. Info: http://en.wikipedia....wiki/M4_Sherman Big picture: http://www.brickshel...4a1-sherman.png It was really hard to build. The proportional track part seemed to be easy at the beginning, but the number of chains was too less or too many (can be only integer). Sherman has a tricky, rounded shape with angles too, so some compromise was necessary. The front part consumed around the 1/3 of the beuilding time, I tried many variants, and that won, which can be seen in the picture. I appreciate suggestins to make the front more realistic. As always, feedbacks are welcomed.
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Ok. The rollers can be "pearl dark gray", "flat silver", or even "light bluish gray" from bricklink. I reccommend the pearl dk gray, it's the most close to dark bluish gray. Sadly, the 98138 part (roller) doesn't exists in dark bluish gray. (they are dkbl gray in the render, because it's complicated to set up the pearl dk gray color in pov-ray)
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