kieran

the chrome parts work really well on that, I have seen a few of them around and always wondered how well the coating lasts especially on large parts like the plates you have, does it ever crack off or is the chemical bonding really strong?

900 is a lot that's the sort if number I was thinking, worth it though looks very good

Its things like this that make me want a purpose made layout area, that way I could add this sort of detail (not a nice I am sure), what the approx number of the brick bricks used?

The main issue you will have with the LED lights as they come out the box is that they are set-up with the use of rectification to be on when the power is set for forward or reverse. This will make it very hard to set one to be on at a time with out some modification. For a LED to light you have to pass electricity into the LED in one direction, reverse will not light the LED like it would in a regular light bulb. I am afraid you will need to change the set-up of the LEDS to achieve what you want, unless you are happy t use 2 sets and a IR receiver, in which case you can have blue on or off and red on or off for green and red on the LEDS. if you don't mind changing a PF LED then you can remove the centre block and rewire the leds with new resistor and you could make one come on in forward and one in reverse if that will be acceptable for you?

I think I got the last ones this time round, alaninneke is a great guy to deal with on bricklink, I am sure he will get the next batch ready as soon as possible

Just ordered mine, cant wait to try them out, I have a few projects in mind, will let you know how I get on

A set of those in a nice glass display case would look just right on the wall above my desk, good work

Trains and NXT, 2 things very close to me, what a wonderful use of the technology, really looks the part, well done

The regs that are used will shut down if too much current is drawn, or it gets too hot due to too much current, so it either case it will not harm it, the image of a turning loop is exactly the same as placing a metal bar across the track, if you follow the red line from left to right on the image you will see that it become blue, this is the short circuit.

Could it be the fuse in the motor?

and also the paint type if you are going to reproduce exactly as in this example?

Just a thought but if you don't have a rectifier lying around you could use 2 LED's back to back, one one be on if the train is moving forward and the other if it is reversing, depends on space as well I guess.

Gotta love that, very simple and to the point,

Thanks for the info

If I wanted a single set of the ones you have now is that possible?

Hi, little nudge, any news on this?

That is such a good thing they did, all I ever hear about The Lego Group is how they go out of their way to make things like this happen, good on you Lego

That's good news

Instantly recognisable to me, red looks good for a toy version of the real thing, I say well done good use of the flex axles for the wings as well.

I have had a few issues like this with various 9V system parts, what allanp says is most likely the cause, the 4 stud connections have a habit of getting dirty and then no power can get through. it ma be worth going the motor a sniff as well, if there is a smell of burning then you may have a burnt out motor. Even if the brushes were well worn you would expect the motor to try and turn a little

Looks like you use the same containers as I do when sorting and building, compressor looks interesting

Yep, you have one of the old style cylinders, they also come in 2 sizes for info.

Blows my mind what some of you guys can do, very well executed

Is that a custom display table you have it on, or just part of your normal furniture? either way looks the part with this sort of model taking shape on top

have to add a simple well done from me as well, truly epic and so well executed, looks amazing