THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!
- [PRESS RELEASE] 75192 - UCS Millennium Falcon 2017
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[PRESS RELEASE] 75192 - UCS Millennium Falcon 2017
After screwing around with the US website for 30 or so minutes this morning, my order went through. Got my confirmation email and my card was charged. 4 hours later, I get an email saying the order is cancelled because they couldn't verify payment. The same thing happened with the Snowspeeder order in May. But I had zero issues with the same payment multiple times over the last several years, including three weeks ago when I ordered Ninjago City. Now I am 30 minutes into hold on their phone waiting to straighten this out. This is ridiculous.
- Modular Building Sets - Rumours and Discussion
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LEGO Ideas WALL-E
I don't mind at all. I did do one modification to it. I replaced the 1x3 and 1x2 technic plates with a single 1x3 technic crank piece. It is a bit more secure, and now there is not a pin contacting the ball joint, so it fights tighter. Thanks to willp2003 on NeoGAF for having the idea for using that piece instead.
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LEGO Ideas WALL-E
It is a very glaring issue that I am shocked they didn't notice.
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LEGO Ideas WALL-E
As I was building it, I replaced the socket joint that came with the set with a black one that had better tension than the dark grey that was in the box. But the problem with the head still remained. The big problem is gravity. All the weight of the head is towards the front, and it needs something other then a lone technic pin to be held in any kind of position. I might try and just use one of the really old black technic pins from the 80s where they had really, really strong grip.
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LEGO Ideas WALL-E
My quick and easy fix to the head and neck issue. The main neck is still a bit wobbly, but the head is now much more posable. Parts on left are to be removed. Parts on right are what is needed. Remove the top half of the neck. Remove the 2x2 hinge joint piece and replace with the female ball joint piece. Use two 2x1 SNOT plates on the side, then reattach the jumper plates and 1x4 tile on top. On the bottom of the head piece, remove the bottom 1x2 brick with two holes along with the 1x3 technic bricks. Remove the 1x3 dark grey technic brick through the middle section that normally attached to the neck hinge. Replace the 1x3 brick with a 1x3 technic plate, using the 2x red technic axle to hold the plate in place, and a technic pin/axle piece to connect to the top part of the head. Where the 1x2 brick with 2 holes was before, replace it with an angled male ball joint piece, using two 1x3 technic axles threaded through it. Push the three pieces together, then push down onto the bottom just like the head was assembled before. There is an ever so tiny gap now as the axle contacts the ball joint. Using a red 2x axle to connect it with a cap on top might help instead. Connect the male and female ball joints. Then connect the neck back at the same attach point as before. The tension in the ball joints allows the head to pose at nearly any angle now and stay stable, and even allows a slight tilt that you couldn't do before.
- The LEGO Movie Sets News and Discussion
- Super Heroes 2014 Rumors & Discussion
- Super Heroes 2014 Rumors & Discussion
- Super Heroes 2014 Rumors & Discussion
- The LEGO Movie Sets News and Discussion
- The LEGO Movie Sets News and Discussion
- The LEGO Movie Sets News and Discussion
- The LEGO Movie Sets News and Discussion
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