Mr. Lego-builder

Excellent work, Horry. They are built from a beautiful simplicity. They are thought provoking, and your cause is terrific. I can't wait to see the rest of the series and I hope your project goes on to teach many more youths. Since the realm of human rights is a personal philosophical subject as much as a public civil one, your work could spark debates. But by all means, this controversy is one of the very reasons that you built these displays to begin with, so don't hesitate to post your creations, especially ones that represent something you are passionate about. I wish you the best in the ongoing youth workshops. Hubert

Hi. I sent you a PM not so long ago. I won't be able to respond until late tonight (4/16 1-2 AM EST) though, due to preoccupations with work.

This is correct. Many thanks, Brickdoctor, for clearing this misconception up. @ jakman 88: Indeed, the ability to order models from Universe mode seems logistically impossible, so I never intended this to be a realistic perspective. I merely wanted to have the build mode activated upon installation without having the need to edit the default files. Since LDD 4 has already been released since the time of my post you are referring to, it's obvious that LEGO wasn't quite ready to release the Universe mode as a standard. But as I have said before, LEGO's willingness to listen to its consumers and fans may very well mean Universe mode becomes one of the program's priorities (it arguably is already), likewise with the introduction of fan-requested features in LDD 4 (flex tool, search, precise hinge angles, etc.). Sorry for any misunderstandings, and welcome to the Forum!

That is a great building. The color scheme works well. I especially like the choice of color for the awning on the ground level; it compliments the warm colors of the building quite nicely. The use of green horns is a a unique touch. Not to worry about the size: It fits well in line with the three floor standard. Its height is only slightly taller than the GG. The only thing that looks a bit off is the clock on top. I think a bigger, brick-built clock might work better with the scale. Some ideas for the first floor can be a furnished lobby if the apartments are intended to be higher end and more luxurious. There can perhaps be a mail room, a security/check in desk, and lounge area. [inspiration: http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&q=luxury+apartment+lobby&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&biw=1680&bih=949]... Be sure to catalog your progress as it comes along. It looks very promising already! And be sure to post a LDD file (if you have one) in the LDD user MOC topic for everyone's enjoyment. You mean a lot of pounds? Yes, it's quite expensive (= $526 USD; €387 euros). Even so, the prospect entices me to ask: any chance you will build this with real bricks in the future?

That is strange...the picture appears, but the .lxfml does not open correctly. Does anybody know where/how LDD gets the screenshot thumbnail?

I too have tried downloading the file and opening it to no success. Do you remember when this issue started happening? I assume that you did not complete this project in one setting. After which save did you notice this problem? It may have been from a saving issue, where the file got corrupted. If so, you may be able to revert back to an earlier working version of the file if you saved it separately.

Which is why I credited you properly for it in the .txt. Your work with intricate design (letters, vehicles, buildings, etc.) is simply superb! This is by far the easiest method of implementing this technique, but LDD forced me to reconsider. Like you said, in LDD, the use of the 1x1 Technic brick means nothing can be attached to the top or bottom. This will leave gaps that have tried to fill up using a variety of means (all of which looked too awkward.) As a consequence, the alphabet is overly complicated to make up for the "legality" of the build.

I don't believe the cheese-slope method uses any tiles. The slopes create the diagonal. See the post above for a .lxf file to a modular alphabet contained in it the "N" cheese slope method. For reference, here's the link again: http://cid-c55c2a3e1...tering%20V1.zip with password "eurobricks.mlb" (without quotes).

After a lot of trial and error (and a little bit of frustration ), the end result is this: [Click for download link.] But here are some things you should be aware of before using the system: Firstly, please read the included Modular Lettering V1 Rules.txt file to familiarize yourself with the system and how it works and connects. Secondly, the file is protected with a password. The password is "eurobricks.mlb" without quotes. Thirdly, there are exceptions (of course). The exceptions that have come to my attention when using it has been included in a .txt file in the downloadable .zip file. If there are other exceptions that you come up with, feel free to make it known in this thread! Lastly, remember that credit should be given where credit is due. Likewise, I have included all of the resources that I used when constructing the system. If you would like to receive credit, please feel free to mention it in this thread or PM me. Thanks and enjoy!

Maybe that should be the next LDD challenge. We seemed to have abruptly stopped having those... Back on topic: Superkalle, I think it is a great idea to expand this topic to LEGO fonts in general. As we speak, I'm actually trying a hybrid method by combining the sleekness of the 1x1 cheese-slope "N" with no gaps from the brick-built "N." For far, I've probably gone through at least 4 versions of the same lettering. Hopefully, this final version will give me what I need. I'll be sure to chronicle them here in a few days to help out other builders with the same problem.

After going back and using 1x1 clips instead, the same issue still arises. Now I have tried using Private Lego's idea of completely abolishing the use of clips because LDD seems to have a lot of trouble with clips whenever they are concerned. I'm happy to say, the progress is going great. but one minor issue lingers. The lettering has an "N" in it. Do any of the master SNOT builders here know how to build a brick-built "N"? I have tried the method shown here, but it's not as streamlined as I want it to be. I have also tried the method with 1x1 cheese slopes, but I am having a hard time getting rid of the gaps. Any ideas?

Hi everyone, I've been working on a project in LDD for a while now and one major problem has been bugging me. The building that I am working on has a large portion of brick-built lettering. I already have the lettering done following the Fire Brigade standards since it proved to be the easiest method, but LDD just would not let me condense the lettering. There are small gaps in the lettering that when expanded over many iterations (again, it is a large, long portion of text), it amounts to one whole stud in length. That presents a problem when implementing the text into the building. If anybody can help in getting rid of the gaps, that would be absolutely wonderful. You can find the file at this link. Notice the lack of actual lettering, since I camouflaged it. For it's not what the project is that matters, its the darn gaps that matter... If anybody is willing to put their LDD skills to work, I would greatly appreciate it. I really want to get this project up and running again and looking complete with the proper lettering!

Agreed! This has been a one-of a kind exhibit of different skill sets of our forum members. I've been keeping track of the changes and I have been both enlightened by the use of some techniques, and disappointed with the implementation of others (like the one-piece trees Superkalle mentioned ). While the house isn't exactly to CC-style standards any longer, the end result will be unique in its own way. Another thing to bring up: ADHO15, thanks for being adamant with the rules. While we can all nit-pick at the little things that we don't like about the brick selections of other builders, not having the ability to edit another person's work shows respect for their work and removes the stress of finding a "correct" way of building things. For builders further in the queue, it presents a fun challenge of working with the existing designs. I'm excited on the end result. I'm near the end of the line, but patience is a virtue!

How exciting! This idea sounds great. I was sitting in the sidelines waiting for the kinks to be worked out in the previous thread, but now it seems that things are settled (for the most part): If the the one space is still available, I would love to take part.

Firstly and most importantly: I couldn't have said it better myself! Those tan pieces look great and will really come in handy! As for the set itself, I still have mixed thoughts. The raising bridge is nice, but the cables still look a bit off to me. Not to mention the mismatched bridge:vehicle scale, but I guess including those vehicles really says "iconic London flair." I'll use this opportunity to get my hands on some tan cheese slopes. And maybe I'll buy a second copy to build and display if there happens to be a sale down the line.

I personally have never tried this software before, but it seems to be free for unlimited use. Screenshot Download Page Review

Sounds like a great endeavor! Having maintained an online blog myself about a similar subject (although not LEGO related), I can surely say that not only does it help connect my passions with the world, but also reveal emotional connections that I have never really gotten a chance to explore profoundly enough before. I'll be sure to follow your blog closely; I am looking forward to your "flavorful" nostalgic reminiscences!

For all they are worth, LEGO stickers are actually quite durable when faced with water. What I would recommend is using a high concentration rubbing alcohol or cooking oil and saturating the sticker before washing it off with water. However, I must caution that my advice is only based on previous experience with non-LEGO plastics so be sure to test it out on some of your less valuable pieces. There might be a chance that the alcohol or oil may make the bricks brittle. Or you can always use a commercial product. Granted it is more expensive, but it might get you better results. Although I have never tried it, some research points to the product Un-Do as a formidable solution (and the videos are good demonstrations). Still, it would be best to try it out on some less valuable pieces first.

I hate to jump into this topic (Which might I add by the way, is starting to become a very useful resource.) for the sake of saying this, but: @ Superkalle: I think Zblj was worried about your linked picture URL (http://ie6nqg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1prsRRZmgvdkWhceZcKPbrxELVmpbhAKIP2tS38WCjSD_8OTnyRg6yZBw5E45g32Rv9pWCsAg_w96o3Tg1z5mucqzE1u2hzS0U/Macaroni-Cirkel.jpg) for the macaroni work around post. It seems that according to his anti-virus program (Avast!) is showing the link to be unsafe. @ Zblj: I wouldn't worry too much about the integrity of Superkalle's linked picture. It checks out that the linked picture is from his Microsoft SkyDrive account according to WhoIs DomainTools. Unless there is some error in my research, I don't think there's too much to worry about... Or unless Superkalle and Microsoft have an evil secret plan to infect LDD readers on EB, I think we can rest assured that the integrity of this forum is safe and we can continue discussion of these errors, bugs, and workarounds. But then again, on second thought....

Although now that I look at it more, I see a greater degree of differences, but upon first glance, the first idea that popped into mind were the San Francisco Painted Ladies. The model is looking great so far, by the way. The modular aspect of it is always a plus!

That piece isn't in any inventoried sets in brown either according to Bricklink.

Ahh. Nicely done. Thanks for the reply.

Perhaps. Does the uploader have any confirmation on this? It's a great design and could be useful some day.

It does look like this piece is used for the black rim, but I was looking for the white piece on the bottom that forms the bowl.

I can't seem to figure out the piece used for the bowl. Any help?