theDeanoRama

Thanks everyone for the input. I will do as suggested here and start with the base and sub the other two sections. Ironically @Berthil mine is also technic based so thanks for the sample. I've not run into what I'm attempting with normal lego builds. Normally I do a small single sub and it attaches to the main by the next step and I move on with the rest of the instructions.

I've been doing all my work in stud.io lately but I'm finding a roadblock when it comes to it's built in instruction creator. I have a set of steps where I create a portion of the model and I want to set it aside while I build the next stage. Submodels isn't handling it the way I want at all. I am creating essentially 3 sub models that come together in the last three steps. I don't have a way of ignoring something I created in steps 1 to 3, to bring it back at the end to join it to a finished steps 7,8, and 9 as an example. I can't have a step that doesn't include adding parts is one of the issues, but not the only one. Or maybe I'm using stud'io's instruction designer wrong. Is there a better instruction builder than stud.io's out there? I'm finding it limited in more complicated models.

Thanks @SylvainLS It never occurred to me to even try rubber. Probably about as close as I'm going to get.

I've been trying to find a way to render a black cloth minifig cape in Stud.io and have it look right. I get a result that makes it appear to be plastic with a gloss finish which just looks wrong. The colour doesnt seem to matter, and I can't find a satin or flat black to try colour wise. Any tips?

This R2 suffers the same issue, wrong scale. It's a bit too big. I think overscale looks better than underscale though. Need a happy medium as mentioned by @joebiwankenobi, a 3x3 would fit the bill perfectly I think.

2178 pieces crammed into a midi scale falcon! This is the UCS of Midi scales. Excellent work.

Only thing missing is a venerable Ewok standing guard. Nicely done.

I couldn't imagine getting this in a box. It would look like the April Fool's set for the Destruction of Jedha .... one big box of one colour (other than a sub bag filled wilth a bajillion little black pins).

Side Car Left is my fav of the series since I'm forcing myself to pick one as they all have merit. Well done.

In Canada the Lego Store has had the TFA Falcon showing as out of stock since Black Friday's sales wiped them out but I managed to find a set through Toys r Us, lost out on VIP points but at least managed to get my hands on one.

Thanks :D I potentially changed what I may consider for articulating the panels. Take a look in PMs. I was second guessing myself tonight as to whether or not the ratchet on the hinges would hit just the right angle.

@darththeling I think that's depicting a Deathstar lego set

Do you have any empty submodel sections? I find if I accidently create but not populate a submodel, it won't generate (or regenerate as the case may be) pages.

I had no interest in this kit .... until now :D Well done! As stated the articulation of the side panels really make this work for me.

I've been playing with this in LDD. The big caveat is that I've not yet tested my hinge solution in real bricks to see if I can attain and maintain my desired angle. Over the Xmas break I may try mocking up the pylon to see if it will do what I want it to do. I'm using a couple of these hinge combos to attain what you see here. I managed to squeeze in 2 light bricks with room to add a couple of part 44728 to lock the switches on from the top hatch. The 14 stud beams used in the original pylons have been shortened down to 6 studs to bring the solar array wing panels in closer to the cockpit.

Don't get me wrong, this rocks my socks and I'm hoping your going to be sharing/selling an ldd or pdf based on this build sometime in the future. I'm starting to turn into a bit of a TIE collector. Currently working my way through some of the Rebel Builder models. I'm more curious than anything else if there is/was a way to shave off 2 or 3 studs in length on the pylons.

I really like what you've done with the cockpit interior. The way the light is hitting it it almost seems back lit in reds. There is enough space inside, I wonder if you could pull off something with a light brick or two. The only thing I see that feels a little off to me is the pylons, they seem long in comparison to this reference from wookipedia.

I've only managed to do it by having the file hosted on a different site, like moc pages or my personal site and then adding the link to here like this (highlighting the text you want to use as the link and just using the link button at the top of the editor when posting).

That's a really creative connection. If your getting different sag per nacelle, all I can think of is that maybe the cylinders are a little worn or the clips, maybe replace them with newer ones. That's a lot of stress to put on just those two points and they could be expanding a little over time.

As someone who played Witcher 3, this makes me think there should be an armour or weapon diagram hidden up in the rafters.

I like the snot you've done on the pylons connecting the nacelles to the fuselage, but is there enough lateral strength to actually support the weight or do they sag and or break away when lifted? Without seeing a full break away of the inside portion of the nacelles it's hard to see what you've done to create the connection. What is creating the physical connection between pylon and nacelle currently?

A very cool mashup between a vic viper and star wars. As @JekPorkchops mentions, it would have been a nice change to rehashes, though rather U wingish (with nicer lines ... I was never a fan of how the U wing looked over all).

Came here looking for a Space 1999 ship and was pleasantly surprised rather than dissapointed! Nice job

By looking at your Flickr account, I think the problem is that your photo is not public blank. There is no image in 2ZOmndr, or I should say is that the image is nothing but a transparent background

never mind!