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I think the 8880 super car in race car mode, with race colours. Or a test chassis with some stud beams. Something that looks back as well as forward.

Ahh yes! Thank you now we are talking :)

Been looking at rebrickable but cant see inventory options. On bricklink there is a feature where you can part set, basically you choose a set number and it will list every part that set has in a inventory that's quite amazing. That's specifically what I'm looking for. If rebrickable has that function it's not too obvious.

Hi, I am wanting to make an inventory up of my Lego collection, I sat down and started sorting my collection and realised that it would take years :). I then thought of using bricklink to inventory my sets quick and easy, but since I don't want to sell it I decided against. There must be a website out there where you can easily inventory your sets? If there isn't, there should be! All most worth paying for. Any ideas?

No neither am I, mainly because the motors are too close to harms way, and it simply doesn't work! I'll try another system out tonight. I use grease that you use on real car wheel hubs lol seems to work I'll post tonight my method.

I use a Rhino 750mah 2cell it weighs 50ish grams, great little battery I have abused the heck out of it and it serves well. Thanks! it is very light, I did have bigger wheels and tires on it, but when I put the smaller ones on it really got lively, however I am not happy with ground clearance. The screws don't wreck the pins, they merely fit in meaning the pins can't come loose, really a must for staying together. Axles are fine I keep all rotating parts greased, however the big Technic frame holding the front subframe on is got a few fractures, a shock absorbing bumper needs to be developed. which will be be a fun problem to solve. Yes I am using a TRex motor control and futaba receive/trans. I used to use the old lego rc unit, it is too unreliable and large, also it has limits of only two motors. I wanted something with decent range too. It's really fun I want to compile an on board video :) probably this weekend, I'll upload and update when I have. For those wanting to know about the motor controller and transmitter/receiver the ground work was laid down by z3_drive here is a link to his original thread on everything you need. http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=88960

Hi guys I'd like to share with you my latest buggy "Grass Hopper" I built it for track racing in the back yard. The goal with this buggy was strength, not having to run to the thing to fix it, I could not achieve this without using screws :) Below is a video showing me put the buggy through some tests, I would like to make a standard test system for Lego RC cars to adhere to, let's discuss what they should be! The tests in the video are below. It's shouldn't be all about speed so a towing test could be cool and the looks of the car should be a focus as you might want to display the model while charging :) - Bump test I use a hose (something we all have) to test how the suspension controls the chassis, a pretty simple test, someone might have a better idea as one bump might not be enough. - 45 degree incline test Skate park ramps are 45 degree so I went to a skate park, (it is also crazy fun driving around them). - Acceleration test over 8m I choose 8 meters because it's easy to frame in video and it's the standard length of a general tape measure which is easy to reel out. - Top speed Pretty easy now days just find an app and sellotape your phone to the car, though I don't know how accurate the apps are. Builders who gear for high speed will do poorly in the accel test and builders who gear low will do poorly in high speed tests.

I use all sorts of other things to build including screws for a quick tough solution, I have heaps of fun doing it, you can really make capable things out of Lego if you can cheat a bit :p and it's interesting, because you get to solve different problems, good for the brain.

Curious to see how she handles! The body looks quite solid and high speed stable, I do think you can get that batt into the body I was thinking we should come up with a testing system to put high end models such as this in, which could consist of visual appeal test, 8 meter accel test, top speed test, ramp accent (like a skate bowl), bump test (driving over a hose at full power) and top speed turn test... What ya think?

I am happy to report, that 12 tooth gears seem to hold up no problem! The car needs improvement in areas like the steering response and weight, it's ended up weighing 1.2kg which I don't like. Here's a video of some random driving.

Ha the only war this thing is going to get over rocks is to ram it self up them :D Let's see how they go. I hope the whole thing works, knowing my luck I'll blow the chip up! I plan to get a video very soon. I have the motor controller and am building it into the frame work, unfortunately my cool floor pan has to go :/

Yes you are correct, battery might last 30 mins, I would like a 1500mah that would give a better play time. Motor control https://www.pololu.com/product/777. This is something I have been wanting to get for years now but with a weak dollar and terrible postage costs I could never justify it... But I had a weak moment.

I present Lil Pete, I named him after an old fella at work, because while he's not much to look at, he can sure work for his money. This is a working process I am waiting for a motor controller to get it up and running and the look may change to suit the motor controller. This really was a build with no overall presentation goal, I merely started clicking pieces together. My main goal was to build a truck that had the power to climb decent inclines and traverse grass fairly effortlessly at a decent speed. The first picture shows this attractive beasts nose which like Pete is a giant servo. 4x buggy motors with 1:3 ratio means that uni joints would not work so I found an odd way to make up the rear suspension. It's very easy to change out the cogs to different ratios out on the field. It is yet to be seen if this rear suspension will be any good, but it seems fairly tough. The front sub frame is pulled back heaps to give a lot of castor, it's really the only way to prevent those steering rods popping off all the time. With the hood up you can see I have included a floor pan to protect the receiver or motor controller from any splashes from beneath. The seat comes forward also and that is where the battery is conveniently stored. So far the car with battery weighs 1080 gram, which isn't too bad. More information to follow, my electronics should be here within the week. Cheers for reading.

Nice to see you finally used them lipos. I'm working on 3 batt boxes that can be balance charged at once. I always found them tires too hard on drive trains though.