Seasider

2:1 gear setup worked out thanks to a video by “Technic Brick Power” on YouTube. Hopefully will have a chance to build this into a frame a position some of the cams etc.

Because I’m after maximising the space between the axles without needing more gears. So that’s why I’m looking at the larger potential gear combinations.

Just a small update from me. Work has been busy this week, first week back post Christmas and New Year, so haven’t had much build time. I’ve spent a lot of it watching various videos of looms, some full size, some desktop to understand their workings and also I’m waiting on a Bricklink order for some parts to help my progress. So todays update won’t show much. firstly a random collection of mechanisms I’ve been playing about with. and then second I’ve been trying to start on some positioning of stuff and working out how everything is linked from the videos I’ve seen and so this is very much a WIP concept to play with. one thing I’ve got from this design is the cams for both the “up/down” of the threads and the “firing” of the shuttle both run off the same shaft. And the “back/forth” of the shuttle carriage runs off at I’m guessing half the speed of the cam-shaft. I’ve done a google on how to get a 2:1 gear ratio and it gave me 2 options either using a 20/40 or a 28/56(turntable). But I can’t work out how to space the 28/56 to get it to mesh correctly. @JamiesBrickJams - any advice on where errors often occur? I’m thinking this may be a bigger challenge than I realise !

So perhaps a bit of an explanation first. I live in a small town with a lot of history in England, so as soon as I saw what @Jim was after I knew I’d want to create a historical machine. I thought about a printing press, I thought about a steam engine (without the steam of course) and then I thought about the history of where I live. The town used to have a Mill, it was originally a Corn Mill and then got converted to a Cotton Mill. It was originally powered by water but then in its later years steam. Unfortunately the mill is long gone, but it took me down the route of Mills and the Industrial Revolution. So the plan is to build a Power Loom and ideally a representation of the Lancashire Loom, see my pic below, invented by Bullough and Kenworthy in 1842. I don’t live in Lancashire before you ask, but I do live near to where these looms were used. They truly were a marvel of the industrial age, once I find a good video I’ll post a link too. My idea is to try and replicate the mechanism as closely as possible. I’m obviously not going to be able to have the same number of threads as the real loom and I think I’m going to have challenges with gear sizes so may have to use chains to connect gears if they need to be spaced apart. But the plan is to replicate the essence of the machine. I’m aware @nico71 has already created a superb example. I hope mine can at least meet my expectations. The loom has 3 basic operations: Shedding - dividing the lines of thread - an up and down motion Picking - projecting the shuttle to the other side - perhaps the most complex as I need to “fire” something from one side to the other Beating-up - compacting the cloth - a pushing motion I’ve started so far by building some of the basic mechanisms in the Loom, and hopefully once back at work a colleague has told me they have some more photos and videos to help me on top of the ones I’ve got myself and from YouTube. I’ve got a bit of the Shedding and Beating mechanisms here plus the mechanism for keeping the cloth taught once it’s formed. Once I’ve built the basic mechanisms it’s then a process of working out how they all link together to run, this runs off a single input belt! Hope to do weekly updates on this, enjoy.

I know I exactly what I want to build, something that has some relevance for where I live in the world. But I’m aware I can’t “put my towel down” and create a thread without any progress. So it won’t be till the new year for me posting here as now off visiting family for Christmas. Im also hoping a work colleague will send us some photos and videos of the device in action which will help me to work out how it all runs. Have a good Christmas everyone

I’d go with the no animal rule … save that for its own competition

Could use wheels or gears for the keys instead

So are you going to significantly change the mechanism inside ?

I’m not aware of how this set works in its standard form but if your images above are of the standard set it looks like the mechanism is already technic? And it’s just system pieces for the “box”

Been off the forum a while and came back at the right time. I remember a tyre machine was a C model from an old technic set. Understand what sort of machines you’re after, but I have found it humorous with all the people trying to squeeze one type of vehicle or another into the competition. But I do understand how it’s difficult to clearly define a thing that moves trying to remove cars, boats, etc but enable animals. I’ll have to get my thinking cap on.

Mines a J-Limited II from 1994 … but moderately modified now. Few more bits to do and then I’m finished modding it.

It’s the production code. N for the MX-5/Miata and then A for the first generation. So you have NA 1st gen, NB 2nd gen, NC 3rd gen and ND 4th gen which is the current car. Some generations then have a 1 or 2 after their code to denote a facelift. And yes the Mk1 is Naturally Aspirated for both 1.6 and 1.8 although lots of people turbo or supercharge them. Mines still NA

Are there a lot of differences in the structure between manual and powered versions ? as I’ve commented on your other post I’m interested in this being a mk1 owner. I haven’t bought instructions off rebrickable for ages, so was surprised at how much instructions cost compared to others. Can appreciate time and effort to develop a model but the cost seams high.

Hi @brictric, I’m surprised no one has pointed me in the direction of this thread. I’ve got a Mk1 MX-5 myself (had it for 10 years as weekend toy) and also about 3 years ago I started to build a 1:8 scale car. But between life in general, building official LEGO sets and Eurobricks Competitions I’ve been lacking the motivation so never got far with it. i think you’ve done a good job of trying to capture the spirit of the car but as others have commented it looks a bit cartoonish / off in some of your proportions. I think some of it is going for a modified look with flared arches that make the car look fatter and also the nose is too stubby and the mouth a shade too small. But overall it looks like a great model and attempt at capturing a 5. And it’s given me some inspiration that I need to pick up my build again. ill have to look at your instructions over on Rebrickable. well done

There’s normally 2 competitions a year and often one “big” competition and one smaller. If you’re wondering when the next is I’d guess some time over the winter.

Well done to the winners and thanks for @Jim and @Milan for another great contest. Had fun and a good challenge doing my little build.

I’ll have to look it up and see what those rods are, but I don’t think they’re the Panhard. You normally only have one rod, not 6. where did you get the drawing from?

Regarding the Panhard rod, found this for you … “The R was for roadholding, and it added much-needed suspension enhancements that were dictated by then engineering director, Mike Dunn. These changes included stiffer anti-roll bars and firmer damping, along with a Panhard rod to limit the lateral movement of the rear subframe. It worked.“ I can tell you that Bentley uses isolated rear subframes (mounted to the body via bushes, not hard bolted) and so adding a Panhard rod would limit the Subframes lateral movement in a similar way to a live axle on leaf springs.

@MP LEGO Technic creations - sorry missed the comment about the Panhard rod. I’ll see if I can find some info for you.

Have all the entrants voted ?

Just voted. I hope as we’re all adults and these competitions are for fun that we’re not that childish or unsporting to do any of these things to try and rig/sway the votes.

@Michael217 shows what I was talking about with the front axle and a-post Also it took me a while to work out what the conversation about “threshold” was about. I’ve worked it out, you’re talking about the “Sill”. Yes this is a crucial design element. If you look most (not all) cars that have a conventional door hinge/opening won’t have the door as the full height of the side of the car, there will always be some sill shown. This is so you can open the door over a kerb/pavement/sidewalk. in terms of the roof the high point is just above the b-post. Perhaps this is possible with plates/tiles? but taking a further look of the side profile I think you need to check some of your dimensions in the scale you’re using. But I also think that because you’re building such a large scale model that the details become more important and sometimes harder to capture in Lego as they’re needed to not make it look like blocky Lego. One example is the slight slope you’ll see on the top of the front fender (wing)

I’ve gone back and looked at your model a few times and I can’t work out what’s off. I’ve found some side views of the Arnage, the car that replaced this, and found a few things. 1. I don’t think your wheels fill the arches enough (too much air gap) 2. I think the relationship between the a-pillar (windscreen pillar) and front axle is wrong. If you draw a line down the a-pillar this line should be behind the axle. 3. I agree with @_Electro_ that the roof is too flat. They do have a slight crown to them but I think in general the model looks too flat and long and not tall enough somehow, difficult to explain where it feels off. I’ll try and find some side images of a Turbo R edit - here you go an eBay advert for a Turbo RL LWB I think this shows the issues I see https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266969920641?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=sKislBlDSSW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Rv3OAP9sSQO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

You’re more than a bit late for the competition it’s closed. The deadline was the 2nd. why don’t you go back to your original idea and just build the van for fun?

I’ll have to do some digging around but on first look you’ve got a US spec LHD car in the top image and a U.K. spec car in the lower image. So that could account for something, but I’d need to ask someone who knows more about this era than me. Found it … the smaller door quarter glass is from RT which was the end of the Turbo R vehicles. So you have two cars from the start and end of production there. As to your illuminated mascot. The current Flying Spur has an option for an illuminated Flying B. and in terms of wheelbases lots of Bentleys have been done in various wheelbases some even just for a single customer or very limited numbers. looking forward to seeing how you capture the 6 and 3/4 engine