Zerobricks

Well done. May I ask what's the advantage of having the front axle geared up compared to the rear? Regarding the question of L motor housings, that was the original idea, but the motors are too enclosed for proper cooling and can't be stacked easily.

I'm not totally sure, can you send a support ticket and I will FWD it to the app dev? Thanks

I would extend it by an extra stud to make it stiffer so you don't rely just on the crosshole connection.

Just look at sets like 42114, 42145, 42009, 8258, 42082, etc...

Thank you. I am THE support person for technical issues... I found the command: 0xA1 Activate shelf mode Activate the shelf mode in the device immediately. This will disconnect the battery from the device and will require the user to connect the charger in order to wake-up the device. Byte Function / value 0 (command) 0xA1 – Shelf mode Try sending it via nRF Connect. I will remind the app dev to add this to the app.

There should be a command in the API, but currently I'm unable to check which exactly, since I'm recovering from surgery...

How about fusing the 24 tooth gear and the hub bearing into a single part to reduce complexity.

It has to, since PF Servo is powered by the outer cables.

You can use the new, shorter clutch rings from Yamaha which allow the 16 tooth gears to pass near them and avoid the use of weak 8 tooth gears.

It's on all pins.

Softer material is being used for the past few years which means parts have to be redesigned. I'm not sure, but I think they switched from ABS to MABS which can be moulded in transparent colors without needing a seperate mould.

Use piece 2393 as a hub.

Should be easy. I think the following colors should work: - Yellow - Red - White - Black

What an interesting and unique MOC! Seems like you have a lot of heavy electronics quite high. How is with stability?

As I said before, i really recommend you build a physical version first before wasting time on digital failure... And yes, as Horick said this "chassis" will simply slide apart, pulling the axles out of bevel gears and you will loose all the drive. I recommend 19x3 frames for starters.

Thank for all the positive comments. I was thinking of using the fake engine parts from the Kawasaki, but due to the nature of their design, I think they would cause more friction and wear than regular fake engine. I could also make a red version which would remove the need for black fenders and such, but yellow 3x7 panels were cheaper and I also think yellow is more of a Lamborghini color.

Simplest way to move your model with a single L motor would be to replace rear hubs with planetary ones. But you have to realize that you're loosing a lot of power in the gearbox.

I recommend taking some time and effort to finalize and polish both the model and the presentation, especially spelling. IMO that would make your posts more interesting and attractive.

You have a link in the topic to the Bricklink store that used to sell them: https://store.bricklink.com/Yannick1988?p=Yannick1988#/shop Perhaps ask the store owner?

This makes no sense, what happened to 768 motors? Is marketing again not knowing what they are marketing?

Thank you for the praise. What a cool render! Yeah you need to update LDD for all parts to be visible. Thanks for the kind praise. Regarding steering, there was no space or a path to put another steering rack, since it would have to be inverted and it would hit the fake engine. Also no way to pass a steering axle through the 7x5 frames. No issues for the 8 tooth gear, since it only has to carry a third of the motor torque and the wheels are geared 12,6x after it.

Thank you for the info. Power Functions you say? Not Powered Up? Wish we could get more details...

They look like yellow frictionless pins which would make sense so the skin is more flexible.

This is a model I've been working on for a few months for the BuWizz gathering and now it's finally time to showcase it. The rules required a 1:10 scale model built after a real vehicle with a working gearbox, steering wheel and fake engine powered by a maximum of 2 BuWizz motors. I also managed to squeeze additional functions and features as following: 2x BuWizz drive motors 1x BuWizz 3.0 for control Working steering wheel actuated by a PU L motor 2 Speed motorized gearbox controlled by a PU m motor All Wheel Drive using planetary hubs Independent double wishbone suspension on all wheels with around 2 cm travel Working fake V12 coupled directly to the drive motors Detailed interiror with tilting rear seats to access the BuWizz Detailed exterior with opning doors, bonnet and tailgate Built out of around 2850 pieces 47 x 21 x 18 cm Weighs around 3 kg As usual with my representations of the real vehicles, I first started with sourcing, editing and importing a 3D reference into LDD. Here's how the digital model looks compared to the LEGO version: And here's the LEGO version without the reference: I hid the doors, bonnet and the tailgate in order to show the detailed interior: The driveline is very compact and efficient. Two BuWizz drive motors are placed right behind the rear seats and power the 2 speed gearbox and an (oversized) V12 engine directly. As with the real vehcile, suspension system is independent at all 4 corners. Steering system is actuated by the steering rack directly and geared up. Gearbox is activated by a PU M motor via a linear clutch and a wave selector: So that was the theory... After a few small fixes and corrections, this is how the finished model looks like in real life (oops, I lost my license plate): Rear view showing the spare tyre, detailed lights, guardrails and exhausts: Doors, bonnet and the tailgate can open up to reveal the massive V12 engine and front shock absorbers: Interior features an adjustable and working steering wheel, 4 fully detailed seats, console and a transmission tunnel. Rear seats can be tilted individually to access the BuWizz 3.0 for charging; Here's a view of the back with the opened tailgate. Thanks to the central motor placement, there's a lot of free space: One of the design goals was to protect all the gears and drive axles from dirt and to keep the bottom as flat as possible. I think I did very well, it's smooter than the real vehicle in that regard: And finally here's a video where among other details you can see how well it performed at the competiton: If you want to have an even more detailed look, you can download the LDD file here: https://bricksafe.com/files/Zblj/lamborgini-lm002/Lamborghini LM002.lxf To summarize I'm really proud of this model. It looks, performs and just feels good and hits all the right spots. One thing's for sure, I'm keeping this one assembled, as I trully believe it's one of the best models I ever designed.

I didn't hear anything mentioned about the power source of the 1:1. I doubt they used an ICE, that would melt bricks though...