Zerobricks

You don't need diff locks when you have one motor per wheel and when you can control each one individually.

I expect to see a Low and High range gearbox and a 4 speed gearbox, same as defender, but using new parts for more efficiency. Diff locks would be an icing on the cake, but I'm not sure of their usefulness for a non-motorized model.

Mini 42082 when?

Front suspension reminds me of tne bettle one. Rear seems to be a classical trailing arm with gears. Nice idea using longer axle for steering which can simply slide in and out of the rack. I was thinking of using such idea in my models, but I'm worried about it getting jammed, especially with outdoor use.

The battery has a 7A lsafety imit, so the theoretical max constant power you can get is 84 Watts. I would not recommend pulling more than 2A constantly from the PF ports, as they might melt due to the contact resistance, PU ports are better for such cases due to the larger contact surface.

Can the 77765 pin be redefined, so it can be inserted into a beam part way - simillar to an axle? It can smoothly slide in and out of the holes at any length from start to finish.

In such case I recommend drawing power from both ports (2A each) in order not to literally melt them.

ooof, that's a bit harder, I would have to look at one that's already apart. The gearing is same as original RC motor though.

23/17

I'm so happy to see the amazing job @Ngoc Nguyen did with the instructions and all the people having fun rebuilding this model. It's positive feedback like that that really inspires me to keep on building and giving back to the community!

My recommendation is to drive the wheels as directly as possible.

You never want the pivot point directly in center, because than the wheel can become unstable. A good analogy is your head and neck support, your head is supported off center and is much more stable and if it were supproted in dead centre and wobble in all directions.

There are deeper rims like the ones that came in the Creator Mustang. But at such small scales, there are big issues managing to fit a steering arm inside, while allowing for a good steering angle and most importantly keeping slack low.

Ever tried reversing a trailer in a perfectly straight line? It's the same issue, you can't push something straight like that, especially if you're also steering it sideways.

Brilliant reverse engineering and ofc a very good design by the designer! It's nice to see additional value and functionality even in such small models. EDIT. Does Jesko use the shorter version of the 3x19 frame? I think a normal 19 stud long frame would collide with the door mechanism.

Good eye, sure looks like it, especially the distinctive flat side next to the pin. Great to see them slowly replacing normal hubs.

You mean prints?

Having the dumb battery box in the well... electric box and a motor with a comporessor integrated into the excavatar sounds like a brilliant idea. Also have a manual pump also available, so you can unplug and play with excavator manually.

Designer made a compete and beautiful model and than the bean counters came...

McLaren P1? Wikipedia states it ended production back in 2015, almost a decade ago. This can't be right... What about Solus GT in the new orange color?

I think so, though it's totally a legal connection with half a stud offset in one direction and a stud offset in other.

Now we see how the new C beam has been more or less critical for this steering system to work. Brilliant design, and brilliant resverse engineering @R0Sch

Right you are! Where did you find that photo?

Or you can use a perpendicular connector and position the link same as 42099's rear steering linkage

There's a 12 tooth door next to the door - I suspect an opening mechanism?