Captain Harlowe

SIGNED !!!!!!

*beeeeeeeeeeeep*

I like PotC I, but II and III sre getting worse and worse. They gradually got more and more Fantasy, and the British were acceptable good guys in the first movie, they were the bad ones in the 2nd and the most badass bastards ever seen in part 3. I hate this. after PotC I I really thought, that all this over romanticised rubbish would be cut down to a limit. As to the Defeat of the Navy ... Every Ship had a Captain, and Officers, and Soldiers. So simply turning your back and running is not an option, as the sailors would have no choice. The Flagship of Beckett would have never been so easily destroyed in the first place....

Hm...i doubt, that the Star Destroyer is anywhere near any scale, let alone minifig.

I think Richie is right, It's, imho, supposed to be a rammer, used to ram the powderbag, shot and wad down the cannons barrel.

Is there any way of reading those online somewhere?

"Good luck on your ship Captain Harlowe, I think it will turn out great!" thank you very much ...I hope it will turn out somewhere near the result I am looking for. Capt. Harlowe

I think, that 1x2 Plates are ideal, you only have to make sure you have fresh and snug fitting specimen. They allow very nice curvatures and have the most equal "flow" of the lines. The main aspect, and difficultthing, is choosing the correct length and curve for the headrails to look good, same with the gallions frames. It may be difficult, but one must not allow oneself to copy the "appearence" of a periode ship or it's elements, as they appear, you need to understand how they work, how the system beyond that was, whats been the idea, and copy the cunstruction and how things work, and it would bring you quite nice results. Unfortunately the Bow and the Stern of 18th C. ships are full of things, this "rule" applies to. Captain Harlowe

As my ship will be a Waterlinemodel, and the Deck below the Gundeck will be half under Water, I am omitting it to allow for a stable foundation of the ship, allowing a dark "hole", tiled black, to allew looking through the grates, withour seeing anything. So the height of the deck doesn't matter. If it were constructed as I planned earlier, with deckbeams, small beams in between and finally planking, it would be 3-5 plates thick. I am, at the moment, prefering SNOT(where does this abbreviation come from?) decks, as they allow me to show the decks structure, and possible add a slight curvature to it, but tiles also look nice, and would allow the other decks to keep the same style as the rest of the ship, and still show the accurate technique uon they underside... I could waterpaint the sides of the tiles black, or whipe the decks with watered down watercolour, to allow the pitch to be visible between the individual planks...But that is another use of non-Lego material... However, I am uncertain of the colour for the decks. The light rey would match originals decks nicely, as they were rapidly bleached from sunlight, washing ans saltwater into a grey. I am afraid, that it might let the ship look boring, but on the other hand, the hull is painted red on the inside, brown on the outside, and detailed in black/darkgrey and decorated in gold/green... Captain Harlowe

Thanks. I was trying to snot the grates, but if I use tiles, I dont know how to make them into larger pieces. The Gun is great!!! Too great for my humble frigate...space is limited. But I'll keep an Eye on you design, for possible later projects Capt. Harlowe

Very nice ides..I can make good use of it on another project. But the "Holes" sre to big for my purpose...a minifig could break a leg XD. The Originals were carefully dimensioned not to allow a mens shoe heel to fit the holes. *grin* Captain Charles F. Harlowe

Thanks. Thats the Lego-Way to build them. The original grates on the Sips where unually not made diagonally Thus I d prefer not using these parts, and build something from normal bricks, flats or tiles. Capt. Harlowe

That sums it up pretty well, very nice work. Only one point there is, I think diffrently. The Bicorns did not really show up before the napoleonic era. I am quite certain, Georgy Washington wore Tricorns. The Shape of the Tricorns also changed over the time. The earliest one were not as sharply shaped at the corners. In the middle of the 18th C. they were very nicely made, quite perfectly resembled by the Lego-Tricorns. Later, slowly the front corner became shorter. The did not evolve into bicorns, but only gave the idea... Capt. Harlowe

Hey, thank you very much. Your Figureheads are very nice, a great inspiration and basis to start off from! Thanks alot for them. I know, what Lego-part you have in mind, but I'm willing to moc the real thing.

Hi! Well, um, you have those gaps in the secks, to allow supplies etc. being loaded or unloaded from the ships hold. Usually they are not covered with solid boards, but with grates, to allow fresh air and light to enter the lower decks, and powder smoke to exit them. in very bad weather they're covered with thin boards and sailcloth. From Above, it looks something like this: ______________ |[][][][][][][][][]| |[][][][][][][][][]| |[][][][][][][][][]| |[][][][][][][][][]| |[][][][][][][][][]| |[][][][][][][][][]| |[][][][][][][][][]| |[][][][][][][][][]|