MikeTwo9398

Maybe it's a good thing they didn't make the rear axle differential lock automatic. Since this is a manual model, there is a good chance that the gears of the differential in the rear axle will break during driving, especially given the profile of the new tires.

There is a link in that topic from @Chilly where you can still download the file http://www.readypedalgo.co.uk/9398.C.Model%20-%20white%20background.pdf.

Hi kingiswide If you look in the video at 1:25 you can see a drum on the right side of the dashboard. The drum is connected to the shifting part of gearbox. By changing the gear the drum rotates. The sticker on the drum tells you the selected gear. Quite a challenge during construction to get this in the right position

For those who are interested in my construction, here are the free building instructions. While setting up in Stud.io I discovered that I had made quite a few illegal connections. Due to the flexibility and tolerances in the connections, this Arctic Cruiser was still possible. In these building instructions I have replaced those illegal connections with a suitable solution.

I hope everybody did gave the best entries the lowest points. Then I will probably win As what @Seasider is telling: I also entered and voted. When I voted I used my interpretation of your 4 criteria comparing the models against that and to each other based on that. I completely discounted my entry as a participant in my voting and automatically gave it the 1 point that was asked and never compared others to it to work out my order.

There is a 12 tooth gear on top. Looks like it has Hand Of God.

Very nice replica of the Batavia. It looks very much like the real replica that was built in Lelystad at the end of the 1980s until well into the 1990s. I lived in Lelystad at the time and often visited the shipyard where they built the ship. Real craftsmanship, many techniques from back then were used to build it. It would be a shame to break it down (maybe you already did). And if you didn't, make it available for a while and let it shine on the real Batavia....

Arctic Cruiser Task: Takes you quickly from A to B in a snowy environment There is room for 3 (including the driver). Easy boarding through the Gull wing doors. Technical specs: 2 Powered Up L motors drive the 2 tracks at the rear of the vehicle 1 Powered Up L-Motor controls the tilt of the cabin making it turn Contolled by "Audi RS Q e-tron" of the Control+ app. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5I2vB-GfSqg Topic link: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/197204-tc26-arctic-cruiser/

Hello all. This will be my design for the Arctic Contest, the "Arctic Cruiser". It is an artcic cruiser that can quickly transport people from one place to another over snow and ice. There is room for 3 (including the driver). He can move very quickly (unfortunately the Lego engines are not, but imagine that) over snow and ice. The Arctic Cruiser is controlled with the Control+ app. For this I use the "Audi RS Q e-tron". Unfortunately the pictures are not that clear as the weather here is quite rainy. There is certainly no snow at all... This was the idea I started working with. Arctic Cruiser I'm a bad builder when it comes to vehicle bodywork. I don't have many orange and white bricks either, so my Ford Raptor was torn down to have some orange bricks. I started with the drive and almost immediately came to the white motor wheel in the track. Fits exactly in the tracks. I think I reassembled it 10 times, but here is the result. Tracks For those who recognize it, I copied the principle of the gull-wing doors from the old 8466. Gull-wing door For the steering, I once again fell back on the tilting chassis, which works fine. Must say that it is easier to realize with the Power Function Servo than with the Control+ motors. Tilting body Video link: http://youtu.be/5I2vB-GfSqg

I had a different issue this week. Try this maybe it helps (reminder: it removes all collected data of the other vehicles in the app): Posted Thursday at 06:02 PM Contacted Lego Service, Issue solved Advice was to delete the Storage and Cache and reinstall the Control+ app on my phone: device settings - apps - control+ - storage and cache After doing so for some reason the Storage was not removed. I delete the Storage and Cache again but did not reinstall the App and then the issue was solved.

Contacted Lego Service, Issue solved Advice was to delete the Storage and Cache and reinstall the Control+ app on my phone: device settings - apps - control+ - storage and cache After doing so for some reason the Storage was nog removed. I delete the Storage and Cache again but did not reinstall the App and then the issue was solved.

Just a question if someone else has the same issue as I do at this moment. When I want to control 42140 with the control+ app on my Android telephone, a Samsung A52, it keeps hanging when the green bar is full. Other vehicles work ok. I tried re-installing the app, restarted my phone, same problem. on my daughters I-phone all works ok. Am I the only one with this moment?

I think the axle below the differntial (the red part) is blocking the movement. It stops moving and then the clicking/slipping of gears start. What is attached to that?

SteinaufStein has a building video of the Mars rover https://youtu.be/wbNARImrAeY

Same problem here. Of course Lego also sells the car for enthusiasts (AFOL's) who just put it in a glass box and don't play with it. I think the tires are to blame for keeping the car in bad shape. The profile of the tire is too high, which creates extra friction and because the tires do not rotate evenly when cornering, it starts to wobble. I put the tires (44771 and 44772) of the Ferrari Enzo (8653) on it and the car steered perfectly.

You can find an IO file on my Bricksafe page. Original is the "42129 bag 1+2+3+4+5+6.io" file. The other IO is my speed me up design.

When I got my 2nd truck it had the same problem (was completely build). I think it is not the differential. It is the orange selector that should go into the differential. I think that in your case when diflock is selected the orange selecter locks the bleu gear instead of the differential. And because the blue gear is standing still it locks the axle of that wheel (left back). Remove the back axle again. On the left side is a lever added in step 163 of the building instructions. Make sure that one of the nobs of the orange selector is on the same side of the lever as shown in step 163. The lever can only move 90 degr. If you move the lever the differential should be locked and not the blue gear. Move the lever and see what is being locked the differential or the blue gear. You can fix it by removing the level and put it in the correct position.

There's a topic about Third Party Tires. You can add them in this topic.

After several attempts, the 42129 was converted to a 2-speed truck and still kept the differential lock. The first attempt was quite successful, however after a while the truck was no longer able to climb, although the speed was lower and the torque was higher. So I had to start again. This is the final result: Gears for the speed and differential lock Rear axle: Some small adjustments of the rear axle. An extra gear at the differential to prevent slipping gears while climbing. Doors: A simple pin to prevent the doors from opening Bonnet: A small adjustment of the engine hood, a simple small black round stud of 1 in 2 places (one was a spare pice in the box). Driving the truck: The Control+ app from Lego of the 42129 can be used as usual. With the differential unlocked the truck has a slightly higher speed than normal and is able to handle simple low obstructions. Driving through grass is also perfectly possible. When switching on the differential lock, the speed is also reduced to the speed as the original 42129 has. Here you can see the truck in action. At Rebrickable you can find the free building instructions. For building this mod I use below extra parts:

Very nice, works smooth and quickly. You managed to load the new cargo quickly.

That looks more solid then what I used. I had suspension on the axle and used the spring as lever to go up and down.

The pivot point for making the wheel go up and down was an axle supported on both sides. For the wheel I used an axle going through 2 beams, but the pivot point there was a black pin.

I once made an attempt to. My cargo were the walls of the Rough terrain crane 42085 set https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/170913-moc-truck-with-inner-loader/ It's hard to get the wheels stable without making the trailer to wide.

The same as for the 42140 more pictures can be found here: https://www.brickmerge.de/img/sets/l/LEGO_42139_WEB_SEC01_NOBG.jpg https://www.brickmerge.de/img/sets/l/LEGO_42139_WEB_SEC02_NOBG.jpg https://www.brickmerge.de/img/sets/l/LEGO_42139_WEB_SEC03_NOBG.jpg https://www.brickmerge.de/img/sets/l/LEGO_42139_WEB_SEC04_NOBG.jpg https://www.brickmerge.de/img/sets/l/LEGO_42139_WEB_SEC05_NOBG.jpg https://www.brickmerge.de/img/sets/l/LEGO_42139_WEB_SEC06_NOBG.jpg https://www.brickmerge.de/img/sets/l/LEGO_42139_WEB_SEC07_NOBG.jpg

Looking at the video it is hard to see what is going wrong but first check if the red levers are correct positioned in the red moving driving ring (building steps 31-33 starting at page 75). What also might help is activating some (or all) of the other motors to make the gears rotate, that might shift the driving ring into the correct position. What I did with my 8043 is changing the two 16 gears, used for switching, into a 12 and 20 tooth (placing the 12, step 29 page 72, on the motor axle and the 20 tooth gear in step 35 page 79). This way the motor needs les torque/power moving the shifting levers.