Frootloop

Definitely great, and especially appreciated because my next moc will be a public transportation bus from germany...thanks.

Well, i think that we have collcted quite an information source for others. I am hoping for a dedicated lipo-mod thread and will definitely continue to hang around. Thanks guys

Please consider myself as someone, who doesn't know how to charge a Lipo "properly". Does it mean, you should pay attention to not overcharge it resp. charge it not beyond its C, voltage, etc.?

And what's it with all these mentionings about explosions and spontaneous fires with Lipos?

Do these Lipos have to have specific specs in order to be integrated into the pf-battery box? Thanks for the pictures!

You guys are pretty helpful, when it comes to what could be done. First of all, the problem has been solved: Fortunately, the extension cable came in the afternoon and as soon as I connected the recent battery packs to the motors, they were fine - high rpms etc. Although I do know that the pack has limited output, I consider it good news as I now know that the motors are fine. So, indeed, you were definitely right. @Clarkdef: aah ;) but if the LipoMod is directly attached to the motor ... which thermal is to be bridged? The whole discussion indeed has led me to the conclusion that trying out a lipo mod could be a good idea. After a little research on the specs and searching for examples on youtube, I seem to understand the general idea and general way it is done. But I wonder: With how many motors can the LipoMod can be attached SAFELY? (e.g. your one, ClarkDef) PS: A general thread on LiPo-Mod is appreciated :-)

Thanks for the tipps, so far. I'll try different batteries as well but will eventually switch to LiPo. So for the theory: According to Philohome.com, the thermal switch cuts in at a minimum of 750 mA, having a capacity of 1100 mAh with 7,4 V. In the Lego LiPo. the current limitation cuts in at 1000 mA, although the same resettable fuse in included. Nevertheless, according to http://www.philohome...s/motorcomp.htm the 5292 has a current under load of about 1,4 A; no-load current is 160 mA. So how is it, that the Lipo may power up to eight 5292s? But also, comparing these numbers and given the fact that I used the battery pack suplied with the 8287 without putting load on the motor, there seems to be a problem with the pack (thermal switch kicking in to soon; or pack itself is damaged) or the motor (such as: mechanical problem that leads to higher internal friction and thus to higher current flows which prompt the thermal switch to kick in). In any case, I will definitely try other battery packs as well as soon as the extension cable for the 5292 (= cable adapter) arrives. If that won't solve the problem, I will contact the retailer. Anyway, I am defnitely interested in the LiPo-Mod and will PM you, thanks! Edit: Crap, I can only PM after 10 messages...

So you understand my irritation? I bought it as a used component, and probably either the battery box (yes, it is the box for which you have provided the image) or the battery aren't alright. For the beginning, i wanted to try directly coupling the motor to read axes, then later couple them with pf-xl-motors. But the very first thing needs to be: get those pieces going one by one. Before I would consider you taking much time to explain the lipo-mod by PM, there is another question: The Lego LiPo has only 7,4 V power output, but the 5292 requires 9 V ... is this the reason for the need for a Mod? And I'd like to take up the question nr. 2 from my earlier post: Would bridging the thermal switch component solve the problem with the 5292 as well (but only for the case of AA-batteries)?

There is another disturbence, that I sensed within the ... logic: I did use the very battery box provided in the 8287-set: http://www.philohome.com/batteries/bat.htm says, its 54734, and it wouldn't work. Would the set require, that the the motor and the box are able to work properly together?

Thank you very much for the diagnoses and the links and tipps. I have several questions as a follow up and would appreciate replies for 1. These old battery boxes ... do they have a "lego chiffre", just like the 4x4 offroader is the 9398? 2. In the thread that you have linked, the bridging of the thermal swith (is it this current limitation component?) was mentioned by youself: "bridge the thermal switch on box A (Just solder a small wire from one end to the other on HL5L)". Does this work fine resp. safely, and would it replace my need to find the "old" battery boxes or the rc-component? The soldering-effort seems to be pretty low which is why I would prefer this way. 3. What is this "lipo mod" about which you were talking about in the thread? Thank you very much for your patience?

Hello fellow Eurobricks-Users, this is my first post here, after i revived my interest into lego. I recently got hold of 2 of the fabolous rc buggy-motors 5292 (resp. 8287) for 27 euro each. Judging by their exterior, both seem to be in good shape. Because so far, I only had the 9398-power functions, I could connect the motors only to an old battery box from the set 8287 with an 5306bc015 cable i got from amazon. So, the connections fit, and i have put 6 1,5 V AA Batteries (fresh from the store - no AAA) into the box and was looking forward to the amazing rpm-speed of the motors. Unfortunately, both behaved similarely: They started to spin for a second and then the speed decreased for another second; then they came to stop. I tested them separately. Although i do know about the huge power drain these 5292s have, I was pretty disappointed and thought that they were out of order. But I did get them from different sources (one seemed to be from a buggy-set and one came with the 8287-box), and they behaved similarely. Also, other threads for the 5292s provided info about the relatively good endurance these pieces have over time. Now, as I am new (again) to this field, I suspect that the failure may be the power from the batteries (maybe I should take the best and freshest ones?), but I exchanged them for different ones (from the same brand). Any clue or hint would be welcome! Thanks, Frootloop!