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  1. Hi All, It's been awhile since my last post, so I thought it was time I made another. I have been in receipt of a BB12VB-RED recently! Ahem, probably more like a year or so ago. As you can see from the photos, one of the pickups is very damaged… Another Eurobrick member, Alainneke, had already kindly made some replacements out of brass… I had sent him the diagrams of the pickups in AutoCAD, and extremely excellent reproductions were sent as a test in return. At the time I’d only opened my 'teenaged' black motor, as seen in photos, and the new brass pickup studs were supposed to be destined for it… The RED 12V motor is very, very rare, I have held back on using the replacement pickups until now… I am glad I have waited though, my apologies Alainneke! After reading VGO’s suggestion in post http://www.eurobrick...pic=50345&st=25, post #28, I tried the idea out on a black motor and it moved during the operation and I snapped a tab off the end, see pic. So I decided to build a jig out of Lego to hold the motor. The top part of my jig is real Lego, while the bottom is entirely made of Fako(Fake Lego) due to my needing to augment some of the pieces to fit the underside of the motor and wheels. I used MEK(Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone) to ‘weld’ the pieces together, along with some small strips of a smooth(no embossed numbers) credit type card, see pics. Okay, My advice is that you try and run a razor blade around the circumference of the bottom of the motor, hopefully using a ‘jig’ like shown. I do mean “Razor blade” as a “Stanley” knife blade will do the damage that I have shown in my earlier openings, try a ‘BIC single blade’… Making and using a ‘BIC’ single razor blade… I used the razor whilst the motor was in the top part of the jig. Once in the jig, use a 2.5mm rod/nail and hammer in both power plug holes, to gently persuade the bottom to come loose on either side. Seat partially opened motor on the ‘bottom’ part of the jig, and use the remainder of the credit/shopping card to gently hammer down on the wheel axle to pry the last of the plastic welds apart. The motor is now broken open… Here are some pics of the open casing with the old and new pickups, I will update the post after I have cleaned up the motor parts. If for whatever reason you need to take a wheel off, I.e. for cleaning excessive hair/crud in sleeve bearing, then you start by removing the cir-clip next to the sleeve bearing. Move bearing nearer to gear cog, then gently pries the cylindrical spring clip out of the wheel in the same area as the hole in the wheel. When you're cleaning the parts inside, be careful with the metal part 'A'. There are two small hardened steel discs that sit either end of the spindle, only the dirty grease is holding them in.... Now it's time for reassembly and re-greasing...
  2. I have recently discovered the beatiful world that is the 12V, grey era, train system. It began when I bought a lot on a garage sale in Denmark, while I was attending Skearbaek Fan Weekend. For 40 euro's I had a box that contained lots of material, a complete 7725 passenger train amongst other things. So I've started MOCing with the loose parts I've got . First production is a shunting locomotive with working lights. Instructions are available on ReBrickable I had also began working on a PoweredUp shunting locomotive but that one didn't really work out (see below) I hope you like it! I'm brainstorming about a 12V layout now but I'm struggling with the approach. I don't really have the space so I need some kind of modular way of setting it up.
  3. Hello, long time lurker but never contributed anything. I been considering ideas to let my 12v trains also use the 9v/RC tracks and one of the problems was to make the 12v curved rails fit I guess other people have tried this to, but I realize by removing in total 4 stud I would get a snug fit and also a more convenient way to build track layouts. I also modified some straight tracks to be able to connect them with 12v rails switch points etc... I made as short video showing the process using cheap RC tracks and the next step would be using copper tape (and I need a extra set of 9v contact points) for the 9v system, not sure if I want to tape the 12v switch track but I guess I can test it out on a "broken" track. I thought that traction could be a problem but it seems to handle it well (test drive at the end of the video), there is some spinning when starting the train with "high" voltage but at soon as it moves it's coping quite well.
  4. (Click to skip to the post with the latest photos) The Backstory: For years I've wanted to be able to display my 12v collection at shows/exhibitions/libraries or wherever, but the wiring is a challenge - I reckon on my last full layout there was 250 to 300 feet (75-90 metres) of the stuff, which on a static layout is one thing, but one built in modules for transport is a challenge. Three or four months ago I came up with a solution (more on that below) and the dreaming started. After much playing in Bluebrick, and nostalgic posts appearing here about older era trains, I settled on a plan. I still had a bunch of my old blue track from the 4.5v era, but no motors. Off we go to Bricklink then! The Layout So, here's the plan. Ten years ago I had a small portable layout on 4 modules, each 3x5 baseplates, and over the years have simply added more of these. Following my Bricklink spree, I now have 2 working 4.5v motors, so rebuilt the loco from set 183 and I have the loco from 7720 in progress. These 2 will feature on the 4.5v loop below, which is 3 of those modules. Next to the 4.5v loop will be the showpiece, the main 12v loops. 12v Lower by andyglascott, on Flickr And on the right of the layout will be the 9v loops. Unlike the other 2 eras, I will have 9v track left over, so this is likely to be expanded in due course, particularly as @michaelgale releases motors, power supply etc. 9v Loops by andyglascott, on Flickr Lastly, there will be another 12v loop, elevated, which will run across the back of all three eras. 12v Upper by andyglascott, on Flickr Putting all of those together looks like this (the white baseplates are roughly where the mountains, tunnels etc will be for the elevated sections. The green and grey sections are simply so I could keep track of where the 3x5 modules were to try and avoid having curves/points on more than one module. When it all comes together, in most likely a couple of years, I'll be able to run 6 trains at a time. Whole Layout by andyglascott, on Flickr The Beginning After all the planning, and clearing away of my last (incomplete) layout, I've finally started building the first module, part of the 4.5v loop. I decided to start here as this will be the quickest era to build, and to a large extent, each era can also be displayed as a stand-alone smaller layout. These three modules will be countryside/farmland, and the trains will reflect the farming side of it when they get built. Module 01 Pic 02 by andyglascott, on Flickr The 12v Wiring The solution that I've come up with is fairly simple, but does involve taking a drill to some baseplates.... At each of the 12v points or signals I'll drill a small hole through the baseplate and the wood for each module, thread the wire through and attach either the original Lego plugs or a quick connect/release plug/connector so that when the layout is set up I'll use already measured lengths of wire to go from that point to the control panels, which will be on their own module. This is going to be a heck of a journey, and build, I'll post updates from time to time, particularly at landmark moments such as completing an "era". I always said, growing up, I was keeping my Lego for my kids. It was really only an excuse, and I'm really glad I didn't sell my old blue track even though I didn't, for years, think I'd use it. Sadly my original 4.5v motors, battery boxes, lights and even signals are long gone, but I was only 7 or 8 when I got 7720....
  5. I searched for this website around here, but couldn't find anything about it. It explains a lot only about the 12v trains form 1980 till 1990, with the grey 12v track, that explains the name of this website. Now I collect also these trains, but have them quite a time complete already and start to moc/build a little with trains running at 12v. This is not mine website, I came it along searching for people at facebook who has the same interest in this system. Some of them want only use those bricks at that area time available. Some people really make very goodlooking models with newer bricks after that area. What me interest most are his moc's including free instructions. I did what I never thought possible, I made all this moc's, with a little rebuild of mine own. I always wanted a real model where the 7740 was based on, the Baureihe 103. I build one in tan/darkred as showcase in mine livingroom and build one yellow/red for mine layout together with the 7740. I already build 2 extra wagons and 6 wagons are too heavy for 2x 12v motors, they can burn broken when pulling too much. Now every train has 3 wagons to pull and an awesome sight to see them running together. I also made a video of that: Baureihe 103 and 7740 together running. And the tan/darkred one in mine livingroom: The 2d train what got mine interest is a dutch train the icm or nickname koploper (headwalker, because you can walk thought the head). I studied his instruction and others at rebrickable and started to pick the best parts of all designs in what I think it will look right beside to the other 12v trains. This is what I came up with: How does it looks beside the 7740? What was also a nice cute train and afterwards not easy to build, the NS600. It was a better version of the NS500, what dutch railways got from England after WO2 and still used this day by several big compagny's. I modified it a little with modern parts to look it more realistic. And than set 727, which I always liked. Only there was no minifig inside what will look odd beside the 12v grey area trains. Why not build a minifig one? Here we go: And than the last, but not least. The Baureihe 41 or would I say the ultimate 7777 in mine opnion. A friend loved it right away and wanted one. After I build it, I used the wheel set-up for mine 7750. After the ultimate 7777 was parked at mine layout for a while I started to like that one and thought, what the heck. Build one for myself. Only the big red wheels was painfull in mine wallet. And also made a video of it. And the 7750 XL has improved a lot with the longer wheel setup: Too bad I never met the person who made this site, but I own him a lot that these awesome trains find a way in mine layout. Exspecially the Baureihe 41 or ultimate 7777 looks awesome. A true steam engine through it basic colors. Still looking better than the emerald night (or flying scottmann) and bigboy. The bigboy is ugly as ugly, but awesome through it's size.
  6. This weekend the Railway Preservation Society of Ireland are relaunching their Class 141 loco B142 after an overhaul (details here if you're interested, and more on the loco itself here), so I figured it was time to share my rendition of it. As with all my 12v stock it's 6 wide, which limits the detail that can be included! I had figured out a way to brick build the curved lines on the front, but that would have left a very flat front of the cab - Irish diesels have an awful lot of flat planes to the cab ends so the compromise was to use some slopes but keep the orange and white lines straight. I'm getting more used to stickers, and am reasonably happy with how the stickers on the 2x2x6 windscreens came out to give the three front windows. Overall, I'm really happy with how it turned out even if the details I did get in don't accurately match the original. Anyway, here are the pics, starting with my main reference image. 142_01 Side view: 01 The doors on the real thing are the diagonal panel on the back of the cab, 1 stud wide slopes on my model, so I created doors on the side while staying as true to the design as possible - a minifig has to be able to fit through the door! Front view: 04 And the classic 3/4 view: 02 The pics were all taken on a stored module of my bigger layout, hence the wooden sky in one or two of them! Lastly, a short video of it running on a temporary loop recently: B142 Hope you all enjoy it.
  7. Hello, when I started collecting the sets from the grey 12v era 1980-1990, I bought many used sets and incomplete lots. Bricklink was (and is) a great help to check them for completeness, and to complete the missing parts. But later on, I faced some problems, e.g.: 1. I found part variants, that Bricklink doesn't know . 2. Some invetories are obviously wrong. For example, it is hard to believe that the power rail 2731a shall be contained in set 7725, but not in 7727. In reality, it looks as if this part wasn't used at all before 1986. 3. Alternative parts are not consistent among various sets. For example, the second version of the black steam cylinder x461 is listed as alternate part for 7730 and 7750, but not for 7865. I got into conctact with other collectors (e.g. Reza) and we exchanged lots of pictures and information. The result is a huge table that can be downloaded here: Table It is a write-proteced Excel file. To use the file, you need a monitor with huge resolution (at least Full-HD) and not too big scaled font size (for Windows, 100% is fine). The table shall be a basis for discussion, not a final document. In many cases, there are only hints and conclusions, but no hard evidence. Any feedback is appreciated. A short guide to the table columns: A "Part" Basic part description B "Variant Type" The different known variants of the part. C "Number" Bricklink part numer. Parts that Bricklink doesn't know, use a "+" at the end of the name, or ar marked "?". D-N "Years" Assignment of the part variants to the years of production / selling. O-P etc. "Sets" Each set consists of two columns. The first one indicates, if the set does containt the part at all. The second columnt indicates, how many parts are contained, and if it is a "regular" or "alternate" part. P.S. I already had contact to the Bricklink inventory admins. They are interested in improving and consolidating the set inventories. But for me, the process is extremely complicated and time-consuming. Every single change for every single set should be handled as separate "inventory change request", and every request takes weeks/months until a decision is made. Imho, this is very ineffective, so I decided to write this text and to provide the table for download.
  8. Hi there, as most collectors know, the grey era boxes were redesigned in 1989. But I don't know if all sets from the 1989-1990 lineup were affected, therefore I need your help. So far, I found 1989 versions of the following sets: 7813 Shell Tanker waggon (sorry, no picture yet) 7817 Crane Waggon all sets from 7850 to 7861 7865 Motor 7867 Light posts The 1989 version can be recognized by looking at the copyright date, which contains two years: the first one states the initial release (e.g. 1980, 1983 or 1985). The second year is always "1989". [7864 power supply is a special case, it exists in three different box versions: 1980 and 1982 without copyright, and the final one with 1990 copyright] So, the question is: do the following sets also exist in a 1989 version? 7823 Container crane depot 7835 manual road crossing 7839 car transport depot 7866 remote controlled road crossing If any of you has one of these sets with a 1989 copyright, a picture would be great. kind regards, Christian
  9. Hello again, I am looking for instructions of 753, 754 and 755. Didn't find them online. Do you know from where I can download them or do you have them?
  10. Hello all, I'd like to introduce my latest MOC, the Siemens Vectron locomotive of GySEV/ROeEE railway company. These locomotive appeared only months ago on Hungarian rails, the Austrian-Hungarian railway company, GySEV/ROeEE bought 9 of these with different equipment. Some of them are dual-voltage and run under 25kV, 50Hz (Hungary) and 15kV, 16.7Hz (Austria), some of them are capable to work with DC supply as well, and 2 of them with the two different AC-supply will get diesel units inside to ensure the locos can move on industrial tracks not electrified at all. When these locomotives started to appear I designed it in LDD, there was a little competition between Hungarian LEGO train fans with the design. I was the first who finished the virtual build and I loved it, so I decided to build it as soon as possible. This was the first versions, but only AC-DC locomotives have 4 pantographs, the AC-only types have only two of them. I'm quite proud of the angular green tile in the side pattern and also the angled front needed a little thinking around. I started to love the old hing plates with two and three teeth - these teeth do NOT brake the line of the hinge plate and the whole LEGO part fit into less space and easier to build other things on the top of these bricks. The slots for lights are also capable of to be lit by LEGO LED lights - another good invention introduced first in my Stadler FLIRTs to use the flexible exoforce tubes which are capable of bringing the light of PF LEDs where I need that light. You may ask why is that M-motor hanging around - it has a great importance in this model! As the real thing with two different AC-supply, my Vectron works under two different LEGO-voltages - it is compatible with 9V track and 12V track as well! The M-motor switches a polarity switch brick, which cuts off 12V pickups from 9V train motor's contacts - when the locomotive runs in 9V mode, the pickups for 12V track could touch the same rail when going through 9V points, and the loco could short circuit herself! When the loco runs in 12V mode, the polarity switch is ON, and the 9V train motors are supplied from 12V track. At the other end of the locomotive there is an another M-motor - it cuts off the 9V train motor from the output of the controlling SBrick - it won't be a wise idea to power that SBrick both from battery box and both from the 9V track, through its output... Look at the next image, how it works: So if the locomotive reaches the end of electrified track (12V or 9V), it still can carry her train forward - it can run on internal battery box as well. And finally, yes, these stuff did fit into the model: (Since the lower light on each side serves as red and white light on the real thing and upper slot serves for long distance lights at night I put white lights on the upper, red lights on the lower slots.) Also some other images and further details can be found in Hispabrick Magazine #29: http://www.hispabrickmagazine.com/sites/default/files/Descargas/HBM029_ENG.pdf Comments and critics welcome! Some other photos:
  11. Hi all, since 7777 book came out, I've always wanted to integrate Trains and Technic worlds. Back in the 80's the problem was the complete lack of train wheels with a Technic axle hole. It was solved with RC trains a lot of years later. Therefore, I can convert a 9v train to PF without too many problems (aesthetically speaking). But for 12V trains it is different. Wheels are made in a specific way, they have the hole for connecting rods, they're more "fat" than RC/PF wheels. Frankly, I do not like 12V trains converted to 9V/PF standard bogies. But I like the PF motor, its speed, the possibility to increase speed gradually...and the fact it keeps the central hole for third wheel. So, in these years I repaired a lot of 12V motors...and some were really in bad shape. Look at the right wheel, it is completely destroyed inside. So I decided to try to implement my solution to connect standard, intact 12V wheels to technic axleholes (which I do not list here, since it was not satisfying). First, I got a standard Technic bush, and cut it a bit. Then I put it inside the damaged wheel hole. It fits fine, but needs to be glued. Once glued, it is time for some testing. The 6-long axle goes right in - but the red ring coming out from the wheel is too thick. So I prepared another wheel (gray bush). This time I cut the bush a bit shorter and fits right. The 5.5 axle is perfect , so I'll need to cut two 6-long axles to the right lenght. And this is the result - this is my 7740 no°3, totally converted to PF. It works fine, but as you all can imagine, it is all made by hand and bushes are not machinery-centered. Therefore the locomotive is not stable as I would like. For the moment, better than nothing!
  12. Hello everybody, On Page 5 of this brochure from 1991, it is mentioned: http://worldbricks.com/en/catalog-year/1990/catalogs-1991/1991-lego-catalog-2-en-fr-nl.html For owners of 12V Lego trains, a special 12V train brochure is available. Please contact Lego Spares service. Aux utilisateurs de trains Lego 12V: Réclamez la brochure special "trains 12V" a Lego S. A. ... Please let me know if I can find in internet and download the special 12v train brochures from 1991, 1992, 1993 (or even from 1990, 1989, 1988). Otherwise, iIf you have them, I really appreciate if you can scan them or just let me know, so that I can find a way to borrow them from me, or even buy them. This is for a longterm project for improving the current inventory of 12v and 4.5V trains on bricklink. One concern is the service bag 5086, which is declared on bricklink from 1993, but I am not sure. I cannot find it in any brochure available online! Cheers
  13. Hi all, I'd like to present you my first 12V MOC. It is a Deutsche Bahn BR78 - inspired locomotive, built using extra pieces from a 7730 and 7750. This is the third big steamer I use, along with the original 7750 and the 7777 steam locomotives. I built this one following using special pieces (e.g. lights lenses are yellow/clear like in 7750 - rubber pipes on the sides) and following the style of the early 80's Lego trains. It was simplified in many details, like the cabin (using standard doors and windows) and sides (which are missing a lot of leverages, handrails and so on). Here it is on my test station - front and rear lights are on when moving forward, small white light on the back is on when moving backwards. Hope you like it!
  14. Hi everybody, I have been carefully watching all trains 7730 on sale in different countries since summer 2017. At the beginning, I realized that the 3 * yellow cones listed in the inventory in bricklink had axle hole: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemInv.asp?S=7730-1 The yellow cones 3943a: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3943a&idColor=3#T=C&C=3 This yellow cone 3943a appears in two sets. 3 used for the train 7730 and 2 used in 599-1. But many trains had the other version 3943b with axle hole: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=3943b&in=S This version is used in two sets. One used in 4982-1 and 2 used in 6954-1. Lego produced both versions since 1979. But there are some doubts on this. Sets in which 3943a appear are produced in 1979, 1980 and 1981 (msotly). This suggests that sometime about 1981-82, Lego replaces 3943a with 3943b. The train 7730 was produced from 1979-82. Then probably, some sets made in 1982 came with 3943b. About one third of the trains i have seen have the version 3943b. As the two versions are as rare as the other, I simply conclude that Lego released some of them with 3943b. It is not likely that so many private sellers lost all the three yellow cones 3943a and then bought or found the other version 3943b and replaced with them. Thus, if you bought this train in your childhood and still have it, could you please comment which version are your yellow cones? If you still have the box, could you check if it is D/F/NL or UK/F/I version? It its also helpful if you tell from what country the train was bought. For learning about different versions of box, see: If you could attach a photo of your train, box(the language part on the right side of the front box) and cone, it would be great and helpful. Also, a photo of the bottom of the motor, if you are sure that the red motor is not switched with another one. Reading the number on the bottom of the motor, we can see in what year it is produced. Here is mine where you can read 38 0 which means week 38 year 1980: This will help me to come up with more evidence to submit a change of inventory request. Regards Here I put some the trains on sale, now or before coming with cones 3943b: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202086086008?clk_rvr_id=1385696026058&rmvSB=true http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Rare-boite-Lego-TRAIN-7730-briques-neuves-jamais-jou%C3%A9/172901510590?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 https://www.ebay.it/itm/152813017599?ul_noapp=true http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Lego-Eisenbahn-12V-12-Volt-Dampflok-G%C3%BCterzug-7730-mit-BA-OVP-komplett/263014487777?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
  15. I am so excited with Lego's news about their reselling the Taj Mahal, because there's always the possibility that this is just the start of something big, and we could be getting an affordable chance to buy classic sets that we missed out on, or don't want to pay the current online prices. I remember with the arrival of the internet how cool it was to go to places like Lugnet, and then to Ebay, and being shocked at how much trains had gone up in price, even just from 1980 to 2000. Then after everyone complained online about how they missed out on the Metroliner, it suddenly reappeared like a legendary phoenix. With the Club Car in tow! At the time, it made perfect sense bringing back the first 9v train while 9v was still going strong. 10 years seems to be the magic number for rereleases with Lego, as seen with the Legends line, and now Taj Mahal. So I was wondering, what if any trains do you think Lego could/should rerelease? Could they take old 12v and 9v sets and swap in Power Functions? What about the Train Shed, or Santa Fe Super Chief? Emerald Night? Are there any regular retail trains sold after 9v that people are clamoring for a return of, as we saw with the Metroliner almost 20 years ago? Is a train related rerelease even feasible with Lego today? I would love to hear what others think is possible / desired. Personally I wish I could buy more Santa Fe cars for regular retail price!
  16. As the title says really. Has anyone created anything like this? Would love to see them if so. Same goes for the other way round too. I've seen a nice long base 7710 carriage before on here. Look forward to seeing anything you've created along these lines!
  17. Hi all, Does anyone have experience/ knowledge of using another type of cabling for 12v layouts and accessories other than the official Lego stuff? I'm looking for a cheaper alternative for long stretches of cabling. Thank you very much! ?
  18. Hi guys, im looking to build some 12v models in alternative colours. E.g. 7745 in all black or 7755. Looking at Bricklinking cheaper parts. Wondered if anyone had some pictures they may have of stuff they had done for some inspiration? Thanks in advance and I look forward to hopefully seeing some of your creations. ?
  19. A few days ago, I made a decision. I've tried to build big houses, buildings and trains and have never been satisfied. I and new pieces and colors doesn't match and when I am collecting 12v trains and buildings and was a kid in the 80s it was actually a pretty easy decision: My mocs will look as they are taken from a LEGO catalogue from 1982-86. So, here is my first try. The brand new 7833 Shell terminal from 1984! It's still only build digitally, but I think I'm going to buy the pieces to build it in real, too! Any ideas and thoughts are welcome. Be mercyful :-) http://tydje.se/lego/7833/7833-2.jpg http://tydje.se/lego/7833/7833-3.jpg
  20. Government Warning: Lego Bricks were harmed in the making of this tutorial. Good evening! I recently converted my 7725 to Power Functions because I don't have a 7740 to convert to power functions. It just didn't look right on four wheels and I could not fit a technic mechanism and M motor in there... So I present the cutters guide to 6 wheel bogies. (If someone has already done this please let me know so that I can give them credit, I didn't turn up any results like this when doing a Google) 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr 6 wheel Lego power functions motor on 7725 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Power functions 7725. by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Purists, please note, the lance was already broken by a careless child so I am recycling, not abusing a perfectly good piece (The 1.5 pin was just an innocent bystander. Sorry). The trick is to get the cut as close to the short end of the 1.5 pin as you can without compromising the structural integrity of the short end. You will know what I mean if you get it in the wrong spot. The effect is similar to the burning tyre rolling past Indiana Jones. Does anyone have a solution that does not involve a knife?
  21. I've recently picked up the 12v controller and a signal set, and intend to pick up some lamps too. I really like both the look and the way they are controlled. I also love the way it's all controlled from one central control unit. So here's my question: Has anybody either modified the innards of the 12v controller to drive 9v or modified 12v motors and controller to rail wires to run without the central rails? I'm keeping my mind pretty open at the moment, just looking for ideas that (with the minimum of modifying aging mechanisms) that would allow me to use any part of the 12v system on a more modernly powered layout. Worst case scenario, I'll just use the controller as a signalbox and nothing more, it's still pretty cool. :)
  22. As there is a thread on repairing 12v motors and one on couplers, I thought the old timers here might be interested in my technique for repairing 12v couplers. I'm sure this must have been tried before but I couldn't find any previous threads. I turned the drill bits with my fingers but a quality drill should do even better. I worked my way up to the correct diameter through three different bits to avoid stressing the plastic, then shaved off the resulting lip with a sharp knife. (Mandated Government Warning: Lego was harmed in the making of this post (but it was only technic) Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr
  23. Hello all, I'm starting a series on YouTube about how to enter the wonderful electric world of 12v Lego trains, and I thought I'd share it here for those of you who may have heard of this line but never learned much. In my opinion, this is the Golden Age of Lego trains and something that won't return in the foreseeable future- the remotely operated points, signals, plus other accessories and the train designs are uniquely fantastic. It's pretty inaccessable to those of us in the United States, and I know I would have really appreciated a guide when I started my journey nearly 2 years ago- so I'm trying to provide a comprehensive starter guide if you are just getting into 12v trains. This is one of the only videos out there to serve this purpose. The first part is already published and is about the different core components of a layout- and, it includes a section regarding voltage converters (aka "step up and down transformers") for those of us in the US, because we need to create European outlets to plug the 12v transformer into. I'm editing the second part right now, which will be an overview of the 9 train sets and which to purchase if you have no prior experience/knowledge, and I will reply to this post with the second part when it's published. I hope you all enjoy, and learn something new if you're just starting 12v! -Reker1000000
  24. Well, it finally happened... I never saw one for sale until now, but on BrickLink there is a seller with a MISB 7750 listed for 9,000 euros (about $9,500). Just posting this here because I thought it might interest some of the other 12v fans out there! This is a very very rare occurrance. Edit: Also realized there's a sealed 7755 (different seller) which went up for sale since yesterday as well...
  25. Has anyone figured out how to integrate the 2x6x2 black weight bricks into 7810 (with 12v motor installed)- and this is the important part- without altering the original stickered assemblies and without removing the stickers? I ordered the set but don't have it yet, and am planning to put 7865 into it once it arrives.
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