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Presenting my alternative model of the 42043 Mercedes-Benz Arocs - Tow Truck Features: Opening doors Opening bonnet 4l-engine HOG-steering Dependent suspension Boom raise Boom rotation Boom extension Hoisting Tow raise Tow fold Video: Images: Instruction: https://boosty.to/paave/posts/c1e67484-6739-4c7b-92e6-0aec3de99b91 -
My latest C model: harbor crane from 42043. It features 6 functions, 3 powered and 3 pneumatic. Video: Normally I would write a lot here, but now I write a blog post for my MOCs on my new website: https://legobricksarecool4.wixsite.com/brickbybricktechnic I would appreciate if you visit it! And now, some pictures: Thank you for reading and watching. Once again, please check out my website! BbBT -
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I present my new MOC, MOD Mercedes Arocs SILENT EAGLE Flight Simulator. Model was built for a competition on LUGPol.pl (polish AFOL forum). It is a flight simulator that can sometimes be found in amusement parks or at various air shows. But it is not based on any particular model. The original chassis is extended by a few studs between the axles to accommodate an additional pump in the compressor and gear drive for a second pair of outriggers behind the rear axle. Behind the Arocs cabin I installed servo and Ir to a control model . Everything above the chassis is already my design. It is full motion flight simulation platform with 6 small pneumatic cylinders each individually connected to a switch. The simulator is manually controlled from the cab. It is powered from its own compressor, two small pumps, airtank and PF XL motor. Additionally simulator is equipped with a new narrow long cylinder to open the door. It also has LED imitating projector and white panel acting as a screen. Two independent pneumatic systems are there to support vehicle outriggers does not lose pressure while playing simulator . LEDs are also in front and rear lights and running automatically when motion model. Weight 3.9 kg Length 61 cm Width 17 cm Height 24 cm 2 x PF L motor propulsion 1 x PF servo steering 1 x PF L motor mechanical functions 1 x PF XL motor simulator compressor 3 x PF swiches 4 x PF Led 6 meters of pneumatic hoses Gallery http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=559347 Movie -
Hello :) Today I'd like to show You my new MOC. MOC built for LUGPol's contest: you must build a truck using cabin from LEGO set 42043 Mercedes-Benz Arocs 3245 (cabin may have several changes, including color). So I decided to build flatbed recovery truck. My main goal was to build MOC for similar official LEGO sets like 42008 or 42043 it means one PF motor and mechanical and pneumatic functions, but not full PF. I think that building transfer case is more challenging than using 1 PF motor for each function. For driven I used 1 PF M motor. So I have 3 groups of function: manually, mechanical and pneumatic. Manually: lift cabin, opening doors, fake R4 engine, winch, HoG steering. Mechanical: lifting and extendible platform. Pneumatic with using airtank: extendible and lifting fork. Desing it's just liftarm construction with a lot of technic panels (34) ;) Movie how it works: And photos in my Flickr and Brickshelf gallery: https://www.flickr.c...157656931852914 , http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=558907 -
Based on the Mercedes-Benz G500 Cabriolet design, and carried out a more radical modification. Two L motor drive, one servo motor steering, four-wheel drive, remote control. Using two special parts, one is above the 42043 logo, and the other is x85 (lamp bowl). Rear bumper design is still in the adjustment. http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/430479 http://ein.cc -
Greetings! After coming out of my Dark Ages and tackling both the excellent Ultimate 8043 & 42009 (see below) designed by Jurgen Krooshoop, I was hungry for another Lego Technic challenge. But I felt rather lost at this point: without a large collection of loose Technic pieces at my beck and call, motorized MOCs which weren't heavily based on existing Lego sets would require some hefty Bricklink investments from my part. Fortunately, a fifteen-percent-off-everything anniversary sale at a local toy store with an expansive Lego section made the choice for my next project a lot simpler: they had the 42043 Arocs set that had already been calling out to my wallet since way back in oh-fifteen. They also had a certain little gizmo called an SBrick in stock, which I had heard quite a few things about. My previous builds had involved standard PF receivers and remotes, so it seemed like an interesting new challenge to incorporate this new-fangled blue-toothed thing-a-ma-jig into my already-slightly-more-challenging attempt at "RC-afying" the Mercedes. I'm already a little way into the project, but I've already made a few false starts and moronic missteps, so I figured it might be educational for others to document my frantic flailing about experiences, so that they might avoid my (myriad) mistakes. The first thing I did, of course, was to order the necessary PF components: a Servo Motor, an L-Motor, an 20cm extension cable, and a couple of PF lights. In hindsight, this already turned out to be my first mistake: I hadn't done my research properly and hadn't realized that the SBrick requires an extension cable to be hooked up to a battery box. This meant I was probably going to be one cable short, since I didn't think the cable for the L-motor used for drive would reach. While I waited for these crucial parts to be delivered, I began preliminary work on the Arocs proper. After completing most of bags 1 to 3, I had three loosely connected main sections of the truck - the cabin housing the 6-cilinder engine and the L-motor that came with the set, the gearbox with the outriggers, and the rear section with the dumping bed and the differentials. In my mind, I could already see a problem arising: there was a drivetrain going from the rear wheels all the way to the engine in the front of the truck, which would obviously make the pistons move as you move the truck along. I already guessed I would be severing this connection by remove the driveshaft with the CV joint and attaching an L-motor in the center somewhere. Which would render the engine, the drivetrain, etc. utterly useless. This was not acceptable - not in the last place because my kids had unanimously decided that seeing the pistons in my 42009 mobile crane move was officially The Coolest Thing Ever™. So I fiddled about a bit before connection these three main sections, and eventually came up with this: Might be a bit hard to see, but... Basically, I placed an additional small gear directly in-between the L-motor and the gearbox, which allows it to power the axles and gears connected to the piston engine when in use. So, it wouldn't be connected to the drive anymore, but at least there could be some motorized eye-candy when one swung back the cabin and fired up the main engine. It wasn't long before my motors and such arrived, so the first I tried to accomplish was to connect the L-motor for the drive somewhere. One nifty solution I'd found involved replacing the engine in the front and using the long drive-train to power the rear wheels -- a technique I thoroughly rejected for several reasons: It seemed inefficient, and COOLEST. THING. EVER. So I figured I'd just bolt the bloody thing directly to the rear diff, as I'd also seen in this fascinating and classically scored tutorial vid by RC-master PPUNG daddy: It didn't sit right with me to just attach the motor with two pins like that though, so I have attempted to support it a little bit better without messing up the way the rear suspension works too much. Right now, it looks something like this: Not exactly perfect, but it seems to work well enough, even when I give the suspension a bit of a work-out. Next came the steering. My first attempt was based on this extremely helpful Youtube video by yu shine: Basically, this involved just connecting the Servo directly to the standard HOG steering mechanism for the Arocs, just below the two orange lights-slash-knobs at the top which you're supposed to turn. It seemed the most simple and elegant and -- being but a simple soul -- this naturally appealed to me greatly. It also didn't require the purchase of any additional parts, and left the mechanically unique way the steering on the Arocs model works intact. At this point I was able to put together a sort of prototype for the RC driving, by dangling the SBrick from the battery box and just hooking everything up in a makeshift manner. After installing the app, setting up the official 42043S profile, and playing around with my handiwork for a bit, I discovered the following issues: The L-motor was supplying quite a bit of power, making the truck actually pretty hard to control. Of course, there was a lot of weight left to be added at this point, so I was willing to reserve judgement for the time being, but given that my kids no doubt want to play around with this thing as well it'd be nice if I could prevent them from semi-accidentally ramming a massive Lego vehicle into, well, practically everything. Not sure how I could address though, other than from the software side. Placing the Servo motor where it was, behind the battery box, didn't actually fit all that well. The battery box itself actually pushed up against the servo when inserted, bending it back by at least a stud, which also frustrated my attempts to secure it in place a bit further. The steering was a bit... inadequate. The problems regarding the steering I recalled Sariel already mentioning in were only exacerbated here. It felt imprecise and rather unresponsive, and it didn't help that there was quite a bit of play in the wheels even with the Servo hooked up, meaning they weren't necessarily centered even when it was. So in the end, I stripped the away the steering mechanism and the wheels up front until I was left with this: After that, I decided to pony up and order the parts which -- after careful visual inspection of PPung's tutorial -- I figured I'd still need to mount the servo at the bottom, between the two sets of front wheels. So, mostly a set of gear racks and gears, in addition to some beams and various connectors used for bracing. This also gave me the chance to simultaneously order an extra extension cable from the same supplier, since it was pretty clear I was going to be needing it if I wanted to have any hope of hooking up the drive motor to the SBrick up front. And now, we wait... Although, to pass the time, I busied myself with rebuilding the back of the cabin, which I had previously taken apart to place the servo motor. I didn't need all the gears used for the steering mechanism, of course, and I figured I'd be better off trying to mount the SBrick in this space instead. For the moment, I came up with the following: I did notice the two black Technic pins still sticking out back there, and peeking ahead in the manual revealed that these will be used to help brace the pneumatic crane, once the time comes to attach that beast. As far as I can tell, that should still be possible even with the SBrick where it is, but no doubt I'll have screwed up somehow. We'll find out in the next update, hopefully! (Assuming, quite optimistically, that there is actual interest in such a thing. ) -
Hello I want to present my first "BIG" C-Model and one of my first MOC. It is a C-Model based on 42043 (Arocs Truck) I see that 80% of all MOC's are Cars so i decided to build an Transport Airplane. I used parts only from 42043 Set. About 60% of parts were used. The Model is 65cm long and 55cm wide. Features: - 2x Engine, 2 cylinder with rotating propeller powered by electric motor - can be swithed on/off via gearbox - Pneumatic folding front suspension - Pneumatic adjustable wing flaps - Pneumatic adjustable rear flap Thank You.
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So this will be my second topic on eb beside my 42043-C Zetros topic. This time it will be a D-model for 42043 Arcos set, and like the C.model I will continue the Mercedes Benz theme. The D-model will be an Unimog U4000 only build with parts from the 42043 set. facts: Mercedes Benz Unimog U4000 (4x4) 4 Inline engine Lenght: 5410 mm wide: 2336 mm Height: 2612 mm tyre size: 335/80 R 20 so if the model should be in a perfect scale of the IRL unimog, it would be a 1:16 build acording to the 62.4/20S lego tyres, because those are the one we have in the 42043 set. that means the 42043-D Unimog U4000 will be Lenght: 34 Studs (+-) Wide: 19 Studs (+-) Height: 20 Studs (+-) Pictures of my "don't think or calculate, just build" progress below Update will come.... -
Hi All. I want introduce You our project. It's Lego Led kit prepared to 42043 Mercedes Actros, just watch what the result is and what I will introduce: As You can see it's controlled by LEGO Power Functions IR Remote Control (item no. 8885). It's supplied by Lego PF Battery Box. There are used two channels, 1ch is used for driving, lights will turn on automatic. 4ch is used to turn on and off programmed Led lights. First I will explain what is happen when you modify your model to be driving by lego PF. 1CHANNEL: When You first time move Your model the parking lights turn on automatic. 1. If You want to turn on right side You have just tu move control button right up to blinked for right. After You turn it blink 3 times and turn off automatic. For the left is, right channel down. 2. For moving forward You move left control button up, when leave it stop lights will turn on for few seconds (imitation car brake) 3. For moving backwards You move left control button down, reversing lights turn on, when leave it stop lights will turn on for few seconds (imitation car brake) 4 CHANNEL: 1. First time left control button up: Parking lights on; Second time left up: Xenon headlights on; Third time left up: Xenon headlights off; Next time: Xenon headlights on (program is running in loop until reset all 4th function) 2. First time left control button down: Beacon lights 1 program; Second time left down: Beacon lights 2 program; Third time left down: Beacon lights 3 program; Fourth time left up: Beacon lights 4 program; Fifth time left down: Beacon lights off; Next time left down: Beacon lights 1 program (program is running in loop until reset all 4th function) 3. First time right control button up: Hazard lights on: Second time right up: Hazard lights off; Next time: Hazard lights on (program is running in loop until reset all 4th function) 4. One time right down: ALL RESET. This is just my idea about what channel, which control button is responsible for some functions. It could be programmed differently, it depends on our mind :D It's not finished, We have to put it in small box, finish the connectors and produce some parts like PF connector. Remember it is IR so the range is not long. Sorry if I made some English Mistakes.
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Hi! Instructions for 42043 are missing from Lego website. However you search the result is always the same: nothing found. I wanted instructions for B model, but there are none. A or B. I've written to Lego customer service a couple of times, but ofcourse there is no answer. Could you people write them also so maybe, maaaaaybe they fix it? In the meantime, does anyone have instructions fo 42043 B model to send me? Thanks!
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Hi! Today I finished the 3d model of 42043-C Zetros, so the complete instruction files is on the way! ..... This is my very first Moc that I have published, but the project isn't 100% finished yet. Got the 42043 Set last year, and then decided to rebuild it into an alternative build [C-Model] This is how the model looks like now, it needs a touch before it's done. The model is based on the real life Mercedes Benz Zetros. Technical detail will come as soon as possible, but here is some picture of it. Like the 42043-A this model has a pneumatic crane without the buckets. the crane is build with one pneumatic hose going through the turnable, It allows the crane for turning 4x360 degrees without damaging the hose. 4 valves is mounted at the back of superstructure for controlling the 3 pneumatic cylinders. Crane lifting capacitet: 200 grams of lego[full exspanded] Outriggers been rebuild too, because those on 42043-A had some issue under load. these ones are build like those on 8110, But also allows to fold the outrigger-leg upsite for better clearence. Outriggers arms is controlled independ [2 functions]because of the missing feature with tilting the Flatbed. Battery Box mounted at the back of the cab. with a openable cover. Steering is build like on 42043, and controlled by the 2 beacons. the cabin was hard to build with the few white parts in the 42043 set, but I think i maded i pretty good. UPDATE will come soon! Some facts Lenght: 64 studs ( 52 cm) Wide: 19 studs ( 15 cm) Hight: 26 studs ( 20 cm) [folded crane] Ground Clearence: 3 studs ( 2.4 cm) Weight: will come today Pieces in use: 2399 6x4 Full suspension on all axles Parts: 2300~2500 Openable doors and hood Foldable outriggers Single pneumatic hoses connection ( making the crane rotate 1020 degrees) 3 valve 1 input valve Crane lifting capacitet: 100~200 grams of lego Steering from the ledt beacon on the Roof Model is RC ready
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Hello guys, After six years without Lego I decided to buy lego again and I choosed the biggest Lego technic set 42043. It is absolutely amazing, but unfortunately I stucked on the building of the gearbox from package 2. What I did is that I builded front part of the truck from package 1, then I builded gearbox from package 2 and connected it to the part front part. Then I builded rear part from package 3 and connected it to the part 1 with gearbox. Then I decided to test the functions: 1) Outrigers working fine > when they reach the end clutch start working and motor is still running 2) Crane > did not test it it is not mounted 3) Pump > working fine 4) the "piston" on the rear end. Here is the issue, when this reach the end of the travel clutch doesnt start to work and gears are cracking. What I did is that I completely rebuild the gearbox and it is still the same issue, do you have any idea when can be the problem? Best, Becis
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The ultimate 42008! After watching the video, do you want to build your own? Follow the rebrickable link below! https://rebrickable.com/mocs/BricksLEGOHovel/42043-mod-service-truck-ultimate-42008 Thanks as always for checking it out! Stay tuned for more! Brickbybrick
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My next 42043 C Model! This is gonna be a big one! I will have 3 power functions and 4 pneumatic functions. Power functions will be for the truck, pneumatics for the trailer. Here's what I have so far: In case you're wondering, that's the immediate front of the truck. It is built for the 42043 cab, which I will be using. Seen above is the frontmost car lift. Here's the master gearbox. Some mechanics for the frontmost lift. That's a video of the mechanism for the front lift. Like the other lifts will, this uses variable axes to control the movements. (NOTE: CLICK ON THE VIDEO TO PLAY IT) P.S: This is based on the Eddie Stobart (video of it below): More pictures should be coming soon. Hope you enjoyed, and leave some comments so I can implement them in this MOC. Thanks for your time! BrickbyBrickTechnic
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Hello everyone! Presenting my new MOC:\ Thanks!
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Presenting my latest MOC: 42043 UDS! Thanks! BrickbyBrick
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Totally inspired by Sariel's Mini Cooper videos, I present 42043: Crawler edition! Features 4x4 drive and steering while retaining the functionality of the cabin. Thanks so much for checking it out! C&C PLEASE! BrickbyBrick
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Not sure which to build: 42043 crawler edition or the "boom" supersonic jet from virgin airlines. Reply with a choice if you can and thanks for the help in advance ? BrickByBrick
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Hi, this is my C Model for the 42043 - MB Arocs, It's an articulated tractor with a tipping trailer! Tech specs: 1x L Motor 3x Pneumatic cylinders, 2x 11x2 to lift & lower the trailer bed, and a 1x5 cylinder to open & close the trailer flap. 10x Wheels, 8 on the tractor in a dually configuration, & 4 on the trailer. Well, now on to pictures! All pictures & more are available at my BrickLink http://bricksafe.com/pages/XtremeBuilder/c-model-42043---mb-arocs---articulated-tractor--trailer -
An extremely functional 42043 c model which also looks pretty nice! (Pics under the video) Pics: The functions include: -Suspension -HOG steering -drill elevation and tilting -lower/raise counterweight -outriggers and secondary outriggers -piston engine -opening bonnet -spinning drill To see them working check the video above! Thanks! BrickbyBrick
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Hi, so I got the MB Arocs 42043 in January, and have been loving it! But now I want to make a C model. Previous attempts have failed due to my now apparent lack of skill at making well proportioned frames. But now I want to try one thing, and stick to it, right now I need to figure out what machine to do as a C model. I've decided on a 4 axle (including steering) heavy duty rotator tow truck Ideas were: Pics will be posted sometimes tomorrow.
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A collection of c-models! These are all c-models that I designed for 42043, 2 of which have instructions (FREE!) and the third's are in the making. Here are the videos (note that the mobile crane was released in august and is not IN ANY WAY inspired by M1Longer's): The pneumatic tubes in this one were wrongly arranged... this is fixed in the instructions. This is why it was not entered for the contest. Thank you! ENJOY!!!! BrickbyBrick
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I have just turned 30 years old! Celebrate with me and get 30% discount on all my instructions, today and tomorrow: Go to my Sellfy Store: https://sellfy.com/m1longer Or to Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/users/M_longer/mocs/
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Hi, I stored my MB Arocs for about half a year. I rebuilt the B model into the A model, but the pneumatics just won’t work. I looked for any kinks in the hoses, tried the pump, tried the cilinders with nothing attached, and it all works fine. The cilinders are also re-oiled. If I attach the first section of the crane, it works fine. However, if I put the second section on, the cilinder can’t lift the crane. The problem lies just with the first cilinder. I even swapped the cilinder for the second section with the cilinder for the first section, but both cilinders seam too weak for the weight of the crane. I’m not really experienced or anything with this kind of stuff, I just build and play, and if I make MOCs its certainly not with pneumatics. I read several forums but all the solutions given there were the things I already tried. So, has anyone an idea what this might be? Maybe because I stored my Arocs the cilinders caught too much dust? PS. I also thought about adding an air tank, but I don’t know if that solves the problem?
