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Among those 3 buggy`s/ truggy`s that I have to test-build them I just managed to add a 4th one. This one is the first 4x4 with 2 motors. As usual, it packs some buggy motors (2 of them, as I said), a servo, removable body (at least semi-detachable), positive caster-angle and full independent suspension. The weight is just under 900g; pretty decent, considering it is 4x4 and that has a pretty big body and some useless pieces to imitate the electric motor of the real RC buggy. Unfortunately, I think that this will only be available with normal RC batteries, because almost no existing hub for Lego is not fitting. -
Hi everyone! Today I want to present you an off-road car, that I've been working for quite some time. There were several attempts, some of it ended up as unpolished models, without all features I initially had in my mind, and some were just concepts of gearbox, axles, etc. These were my initial assumptions on the model: Sturdy drivetrain and gearbox with a wide range of gear ratios Remotely lockable both front and rear axles Up to 1:10 scale, nothing bigger Utility vehicle - it must be able to climb step hills and also provide decent speed on plain terrain Removable body (if it would have one) Precise low speed control - to provide maneuverability over a variety of obstacles Planning the wheelbase and car elements, based on an existing vehicle - to ensure the authenticity of the model Using trusted A2212 1000kv BL motor and other RC components to power it Gearbox I always try to start with a gearbox if my model would feature one. The idea was to make it simple, yet robust. In order to achieve it, I needed to make sure each important gear will be supported by another. My other goal was to make a gearbox with a wide range of gear ratios, so at least for example 1:1 - 1st gear and 1:3 - 2nd gear. The Gearbox I use worked well in my previous concept model I didn't present here. Final gear ratios are: 1st gear: 63.787:1 2nd gear: 16.329:1 3.9 times difference between first and second gear! Now you may ask how I achieved this based just on a picture below, but we will get into that later. Axles I went through massive amount of research to have a working concept of both front and rear axle, that is driveable, able to turn (front axle) and also featuring locking mechanism somewhere. None of the concepts on the Internet were actually fitting my model. I do not have small technic pistons (I am looking at you Lego Technic Emirates), and it didn't seem I would have a chance of finding something different that will work in my case (rc car). I also knew I would use geek-servo for locking system, so only 90-degree turn must provide option for locking and unlocking mechanism. Gray 2L driving ring is actually a new one - 2473. It is not yet added to Lego studio, but the existing ring was working for me just fine. With that concept of the axle, I just needed to make sure the upper steering arm is angled, because other way it would collide with the gears. That angle is perfectly calculated, so I could work on finishing the axle, adding steering (for the front) and most importantly - locking differential mechanism. The finished front axle features: 2x 9.5L hard springs, 3x steering arms to cooperate with springs, 4x steering links, lockable differential mechanism. Did I tell you this was my own first solid axle build attempt? I guess it may be called multi-link suspension, but you have to correct me on that one. Locking differential mechanism on axles As you probably already noticed, this whole model is based around locking differentials functionality. When I was organizing my parts, I came upon instruction of my CADA C61006W, which featured locking differentials in similar scale. The idea of having one gear turning around 90 degree and pushing by it two different gear racks at the same time was splendid. That movement could rotate 6641 Changeover patch part, and thus lock and unlock 2L differential, that was the key of my goal. I went to the drawing board and after some time I created this. As you can see, If I would rotate 12T black gear to the left around 90-degree, it would push by using 6641 and 64781 parts the 2L 2473 driving ring. I just needed to make sure pivot points are correct, so the mechanism wouldn't move unnecessarily during suspension work. Chassis It needed to be as symmetrical as possible, due to previously mention features. I simply wanted it to be robust. I do not focus much on exterior or accessories - it just adds unnecessary weight to the model. The chassis also needs to have all points to attach both axles to. Body Let me just start with one sentence, I am not proud of the body. I am also not a great body sculptor. The overall design was based on Ford Bronco Badlands from 2021, but I only planned wheelbase and door placement around it. The rest was improvised, simply because I don't like rebuilding 1:1 real cars in Lego. The body is detachable and features opening doors and hood. Power system and drivetrain Ah yes, we are approaching icing on a cake. The model is, like I already mentioned, powered by A2212 1000kv BL motor. It also features 3x geek-servos: steering, changing gears and locking differentials. On top of that, I developed some sort of RC-hub (mostly because I want to organize everything in one place). This hub contains 3s battery, receiver and esc. It also features Lego Technic dimensions: 9x9x4 studs. If you want to know more about all of that, check out Brushless motors in the lego world - general topic. As you can see in the top right corner, there is an A2212 motor directly hooked to the planetary hub. This way revolutions are downgraded to let's say civilized number (from 11100 RPM to about 2000 RPM - similar to buggy motor in fast output). This also provide us built up torque, which we will for sure need in off-roading. Summary I am really proud of this model. Especially because it taught me many new things in Lego Technic world. I believe some of you can also learn from my problems and how I approached them. Here are some numbers that may interest you: Weight: 1.590 kg Length, width, height: 43x19.4x16.9cm Theoretical max speed 1st gear: 2.67km/h Theoretical max speed 2nd gear: 10.44km/h Soon I will be able to record some footage of all the features of the car and of course playtime! For now, I have more photos and GALLERY for you. -
This is a model I've been working on for a few months for the BuWizz gathering and now it's finally time to showcase it. The rules required a 1:10 scale model built after a real vehicle with a working gearbox, steering wheel and fake engine powered by a maximum of 2 BuWizz motors. I also managed to squeeze additional functions and features as following: 2x BuWizz drive motors 1x BuWizz 3.0 for control Working steering wheel actuated by a PU L motor 2 Speed motorized gearbox controlled by a PU m motor All Wheel Drive using planetary hubs Independent double wishbone suspension on all wheels with around 2 cm travel Working fake V12 coupled directly to the drive motors Detailed interiror with tilting rear seats to access the BuWizz Detailed exterior with opning doors, bonnet and tailgate Built out of around 2850 pieces 47 x 21 x 18 cm Weighs around 3 kg As usual with my representations of the real vehicles, I first started with sourcing, editing and importing a 3D reference into LDD. Here's how the digital model looks compared to the LEGO version: And here's the LEGO version without the reference: I hid the doors, bonnet and the tailgate in order to show the detailed interior: The driveline is very compact and efficient. Two BuWizz drive motors are placed right behind the rear seats and power the 2 speed gearbox and an (oversized) V12 engine directly. As with the real vehcile, suspension system is independent at all 4 corners. Steering system is actuated by the steering rack directly and geared up. Gearbox is activated by a PU M motor via a linear clutch and a wave selector: So that was the theory... After a few small fixes and corrections, this is how the finished model looks like in real life (oops, I lost my license plate): Rear view showing the spare tyre, detailed lights, guardrails and exhausts: Doors, bonnet and the tailgate can open up to reveal the massive V12 engine and front shock absorbers: Interior features an adjustable and working steering wheel, 4 fully detailed seats, console and a transmission tunnel. Rear seats can be tilted individually to access the BuWizz 3.0 for charging; Here's a view of the back with the opened tailgate. Thanks to the central motor placement, there's a lot of free space: One of the design goals was to protect all the gears and drive axles from dirt and to keep the bottom as flat as possible. I think I did very well, it's smooter than the real vehicle in that regard: And finally here's a video where among other details you can see how well it performed at the competiton: If you want to have an even more detailed look, you can download the LDD file here: https://bricksafe.com/files/Zblj/lamborgini-lm002/Lamborghini LM002.lxf To summarize I'm really proud of this model. It looks, performs and just feels good and hits all the right spots. One thing's for sure, I'm keeping this one assembled, as I trully believe it's one of the best models I ever designed. -
as a continuation of my 4x4 series, i made a few Jeep CJ5's. i've attached the LXF file if you wish to check it out. anyway enjoy.... like my UTV builds the two seats are more for looks than function.... interior dash, w/ speedo and passenger side grab bar... some bottom side details, a faux driveshaft... the typical 4x4 gear i add to my MOC's, a spare tire and a jerry can and hilift jack of my own design... next i'm working on a YJ with different headlights, front fenders, door openings, and rollcage. I'm too lazy to make perfect instructions for this, however, here's some notes to supplement the crappy instructions from LDD (assuming your LDD gives you the same instructions)... + STEP 3, add a 2x4 black plate (from step 8) in front of the 1x6 plate on top of the main 2x12 plate before adding the 4x10 plate + STEP 6, before starting, jump to step 72 to make SNOT assembly that fills the fender gap, add that on first + STEP 10, before adding the 2x3 brick, you can add two downward facing 1x2 brackets (from step 91/92) to the top of the frontmost 1x4 plate you just added + STEP 14, save the hood until after step 88. + STEP 16, do step 17 first. + STEP 20, before adding the black 1x2 plate, add a 1x4 black plate that sticks out 2 studs past the rear of the jeep (from step 78) this will be the rack for the jerry can + STEP 21/22, you can add the four 1x2 plates with mounting studs on both sides of the 1x1 plate before adding the 1x2 tiles that overlap them. (the 1x2 plates with mounting studs show up in steps 28/30 & 59/62) + STEP 23, before adding the 1x4 plate you can mount the black and colored (white) technics 1x2 bricks with axle holes to the open 2x2 space, (these bricks are found in step 81), note the black brick can be a regular technics brick with a round hole, it's main function is to just give the small axle we'll use some room to go into, the outer brick should be an axle brick though since it will hold the spare tire in position. + STEP 24-26, do these steps AFTER doing steps 50-56 + STEP 50, before starting, do steps 53-56 + STEP 56, afterwards don't forget to go back and do steps 24-26 + STEP 65, do after step 68 (unless you are a wizard) hope that helps, brick on folks! jeep-cj-v5-white.lxf.zip
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Here's my new creation: Toyota Hilux 1985 Features: - 4x4 - Leaf spring suspension - 2-speed gearbox - Working 4l-engine - Opening doors, bonnet, tailgate - Door locks - Panhar rod at the rear - Working steering wheel - Opening glove compartment - Modular construction Video: More pics: Instruction: https://boosty.to/paave/posts/1af3d94b-eaf9-4958-8958-94c5f3326f7d -
As soon as I saw the new parts in the 42159, I knew I just have to use them to upgrade the previous version of the Universal 4x4 off-roader. After tinkering for a few weeks in LDD, and actually building it IRL yesterday, it is officially finished: The V2 has a big list of upgrades comapred to V1. Dual independent drive, one for left and other for right wheels - allowing skid steering Two 3 speed gearboxes - that's right, this is my first off road vehicle with 3 gears for optimal performance Improved steering system - much more direct, accurate and responsive Highly modular design - easier access for maintenance and charging Top speed has been increased by 40% both in low and high gear - the previous version had ample torque, so I geared up all the ratios by 40% and added a middle gear Increased suspension travel at the rear - first time I'm using 11 studs long suspension arms Improved drive motor mounting - now they are no longer at a weird angle Similar part count to the V1 - even though it's 2 studs longer and has way more functionality it has only 20 or so extra parts, totalling at 796 (I tried to keep it under 800) Here you can see how the model looks in LDD: Overview of drive, switching and steering drivelines: The dual driveline is powered by 4 BuWizz motors, 2 motors for each side. The lower PU L motor moves the steering rack via an 8 tooth gear. A second, higher mounted PU L motor spins 4 wave selectors via 8 and 28 tooth gears which in turn switch between the 3 gears. The gearboxes have the following gear ratios: First gear is 20/16 = 1,25 - totalling 4,32:1 gear ratio from motors to the wheels Second gear is 24/12 = 2 - totalling 2,7:1 gear ratio from motors to the wheels Third gear is 28/8 = 3,5 - totalling a 1,37:1 gear ratio from motors to the wheels Thanks to the 3 speeds gearboxes, the model has plenty of torque to climb at 45°+ degrees angle, yet can also reach a speed of over 18 km/h, making it my fastest dedicated off-roader to date: Testing it outside, jumping over pump track course, driving through tall grass, etc... I have yet to encounter any major issues. The model is reliable, fast and can take a beating/rollover with ease. So far I'm really happy with it and can't wait to record more media and publish it soon, so stay tuned!
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It's been a while since I posted a personal MOC here, so it's about time to fix that! After the competition we had in Cluj in Romania last year, I decided to make an AWD version for my next competition car and to include the lessons I learned from the Sterrato, Mustang GTEX and others. For this version I used a single BuWizz motor to drive the model, which is realistically placed behind the rear axle. It drives a 28 tooth reinforced differential via a 12 tooth bevel gear from the fast, inner motor axle: Rear differential also drives and axle that in turn drives the normal differential in the front, providing front wheels with power. An L motor steers the front wheel to the maximum angle CV joints can provide, 25°. Exterior is loosely based on the 911 Dakar edition, though some details had to be omitted/recolored due to lack of small panels in white color: I also had to simplify the rear section a bit in order to fit the motor, but it still features details such as LED bar, lights, exhaust and a skid plate: Dimensions: 29 x 12,5 x 8,5 cm Part count: 595 pcs (actually very low for a motorized model at this scale) Weight: 650 grams Thanks to the redesigned front axle which uses the normal diff, I also managed to increase ground clearance to almost a stud, allowing the model to be driven over rough terrain as you can see here: As usual, the LDD file of the model can be downloaded here (remember to update LDD first): https://bricksafe.com/files/Zblj/116-porsche-911-dakar/1 to 16 Dakar 911.lxf While not the fastest or most powerful 1:16 model I've ever built, it sure is one of the, toughest, reliable, robust and simply fun ones to drive so far. To conclude, I'm also really happy with the looks, thankfully Porsches are quite easy to build with Technic and I think it's a good representation. Even kids recognized it as a Porsche while recording the video, which I think is a good sign.
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Hello eurobrickers! Venatus - is a stunning tuning project of awesome MANSORY, based on Lamborghini Urus. This is one of my favourite SUVs ever, so I decided to build it out of Lego. This replica is my own vision and may have differences with the real model. This MOC has 4 x 4 wheel drive with complex suspension, inspirent by ancient @nicjasno works, V8 engine, a bit adapted 8 + N + R Gearbox by @Anto and a working gear shifter. To be honest I was thinking to build this car for more than a year, but the build itself took only half of the year. I hate modern white bars or stickers as a headlights, so I implemented them out of oldschool trans-clear parts, but the shapes are too far from the original headlights with Y-form inside. Maybe this is the only car here which uses 4 tyres and 8 wheel rims :) Please enjoy the video first - I did my best to film and edit it. And the original Mansory Venatus to compare (if I have something to compare with this divine project of course): And some photos of course: More photos: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aleh/us_red_nose_truck/mammoet_sk6000/mansory-venatus-lamborghini-urus And instructions https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-185897/OleJka/suv-inspired-by-lamborghini-urus-mansor-venatus-edition/#details -
Can you give me some examples of lego techic strong and compact 4x4 independent suspension. -
Even before the release of the Lego 42069 set, I’ve always wanted to make a 4x4 vehicle with triangular tracks. Seeing that the season is perfect for vehicles like these (the snow!), I decided it’s finally time I make my dream come true. The build started out with, obviously, making the 4 triangular tracks. Drive is transferred to the tracks via a large sprocket, and two small sprockets form the triangular shape. There are also two small wheels at the bottom that guide the tracks and help reduce slack. The track modules are attached to their axles with a small turntable, which allows it tilt back and forth and also keeps it well attached to prevent it from falling off. The axles are attached to the chassis with 4 suspension arms, 3 links, and 2 6.5L shock absorbers. The entire vehicle is driven by 2 L motors, with 1 per axle. A servo motor at the center of the chassis controls steering, with the front output controlling the front axle and the rear output controlling the rear. The drive/steering setup is similar to that of the 9398. Since there are no mechanical connections between the two driven axles, I added an extra M motor just to drive the V6 piston engine. The fake engine is chain-driven and can be seen by opening the hood, which can be locked in place. The model also includes Lego LEDs that light up the front lights. However, due to the bright sunlight when I filmed it, I could not demonstrate this feature. As for the performance, the model could drive on snow pretty well. The use of tracks over wheels was advantageous in that it has better weight distribution, which reduces stress on the motor. However, since tracks are a lot less grippier than wheels, even a small obstacle means that the tracks will slip, so I had to omit differentials in the drivetrain. The lack of differentials meant that one of the tracks on each axle will be stressed when making a turn, which is why one of the tracks can be seen driving slightly tilted when making a turn. Using rubber inserts, however, may have helped with the tracks slipping, but unfortunately I do not have any at this point. The tracks also feature stoppers on the back that limit their maximum tilt, as the tracks would often tilt too far in its initial tests, especially when overcoming an obstacle.The entire model is powered by a rechargeable battery, which, despite delivering less voltage than the AA battery box, gave the model plenty of power. Overall, I am very satisfied with the result. The model was a success not only in performance but also in aesthetics. In fact, I think this is my best-looking pickup truck model so far. Video: Photos:
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Hi to all fans of Lego! Today I want to share with you my new work - Rock Rod Rock Rod - it's the crawler, on the construction of which I was inspired by the fierce custom projects from HAUK Designs. Especially, where, no matter how on the crawler to run a fresh RC DC chequered flag STT PRO rubber wheels and BuWizz. At the output was a relatively light on the portal bridges crawler. At the heart of the model is also the philosophy of placing motors on bridges, to reduce the center of gravity and minimize weight and inertia of the body. Technical characteristics of the model: Weight (together with a technic-figure) - 817 g. Number of parts - 617 pcs. Steering - Servo motor Movement - two L motors Power / Control - BuWizz Even the "sofa" trial allows us to understand that additions such as non-standard tires and BuWizz significantly expand the scope of use and possibilities of radio controlled Lego models. It remains to wait until the snow comes down, to ride Rock Rod on the rocks. But you can do this before me, by building the Rock Rod yourself by free video instruction. I plan to test the model in the spring on a severe off-road. I will be very glad to hear from you any advice or wish for the completion of both the technical component of the model and its appearance. Ahead is still half a year :) -
Hello evry1, I'm attemting to build my first MOC. What I'm aiming for: - something like a retro / vintage / classic car, two seater cabrio. Like the Catherham Seven or what this guy made - 4x4, motorized with independent suspension; - the gear shifter will manually shift between neutral (only the fake engine will work), 2x4, 4x4 and 4x2 (yeah, i'm going to need some help with this one) - in the future I intend to attach a go pro to an arm. the arm must turn the camera 360 and lower or raise the depression angles. Currently I have the following sets: - 2 x 8838 Shock Bike; these two sets will supply the wheels, suspension and chain; - 1 x 42050 Drag Racer; i will use the fake V8 engine from this set; - 1 x RC Tracked Racer Set 42065 - from this one i will use the two M motors (stearing + drive), battery box, IR receiver and remote; - 1 x Arctic Truck Set 42038 - this set has a switch with gears which i want to use to switch manually between N, 2x4, 4x4, 4x2. - 1x Fire Truck Set 8289 - 9392 Quad Bike Set - 3 differentials, universal joints (cardan), verious gears and miscellaneous parts. This being my first MOC, I have some questions: 1. are the two M motors enough or do I need to get an XL engine for te drive. I expect the set to be large and I dont know if one M engine will be enough to power the fake engine along with the 4x4 drive train? 2. how do i make the manual switch between N and traction settings? Theser are 4 options, the switch I have only has three settings. 3. the transmision will be: M motor > central differential and the fake engine (the motor will turn the fake engine at all times) > from the central diff to the front and rear differentials > wheels. Is this ok? Thank you! Bwt, do I need to gear down the motor?
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Hello All! It is winter time, so I am bit more busy on Legoing. After seeing, that @Didumos69 started his 4x4 buggy project, I looked into a bit deeper the Ultra 4 racing, and the rigs been driven in this extreme events. Finally the video, what I linked to his topic, triggered the work on another MOC: the Ultra 4 buggy. Here is another video to see the interesting bits of independent suspension system on this beast: Still, I might end up with IFS (independent front suspension) and solid axle with torque bar for the rear, but the body is heavily inspired by the Lasernut buggy. Parameters: 2x L motors 1x servo motor AAA battery box - in order to be replace ability with BuWizz in case IR control Let's look at into the progress a bit, maybe it is interesting to read. I started on 28. november with LDD model. To set the proportions, and the body ideas, I usually place the essential parts free in space first. Check the real inspiration thing and the very first sketch: After that I added the electronic parts, to check the necessary minimum space. (Unfortunately Stud.io has corrupt models, so some cover parts of the motors are just not present.) At this stage, I built the front axle, to see how can I integrate the steering. The answer is: massive fail. So back to drawing table, I deleted the 5x7 frame, and started to figure out, how to connect the needed fixation points for swingarms, servo. Due to this, the model gets more complex than I thought, but buildability is always first! I recommend to check meanwhile IRL building too, or at least stop by and thinking about how to add the related parts. I was hopeing for a simple MOC, but I ended up already a pretty complex assembly, so I made each step with double check. Later on, I will try to add groups in LDD to represent the buildability order too. So far the front module with steering and IFS is ready, the middle module is almost done, I am wondering about interchangable solid axle or independent solution for the rear - not sure yet. Also the color is to be decided yet, as the springs type as well (soft or hard). I think if soft ones will be OK, than I go for white body, as it presents the "rollcage" better. In case the yellow hard shock absorbers will be needed, of course the only choice is: full MEAN black body. This picture shows the advantage of the white body, and also a comparison for tyre types: 3740 on the left, 45982 on the right, both on 56908 wheels. So far 407 parts, and I guess it is about 70-75% ready. I need to figure out how to fix the roof, and create a solid, but easily disconnectable rear module. Necessary parts are ordered, so real build pics might come in couple weeks first. And how is the road presence? I guess it will be pretty much like a punch in the face. p.s.: Yet another WIP, I hope for long winter nights, to finish at least some of my unfinished projects... -
Hello everyone! It has been a while since I last posted on this forum. In November I tripped to Russia again for participating LEGO event held in Moscow. This year, my friend Rm8 gave me the opportunity to make video review of my models together at his studio. You might have seen the review of Jeep Wranglers. And this is the other model that I first had a presentation to Russian builders in the event. Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Weight: 1520g -XL motor for propulsion -Servo motor for steering -M motor for front winch -M motor for two speed gearbox and center/rear differential lock -LEDs for front and rear lights Everything started from the issue of center differential in the drivetrain of my previous Pickup. After driving on serious off-road I found that bevel gears in center differential got damaged and often slipped. So I tried to find the way to reinforce gear meshing in 4L differential. In conclusion, I still have not succeeded. Every attempt was not strong enough for transmitting the torque of geared down (3:1) XL motor. In extreme situation floating fourth bevel gear was pushed out by the force of twisting differential housing. I was even hoping new red 4L differential could hold four bevel gears tightly in it, but it does not. So I used the second one in the picture above. (just insert 1L technic brick for holding both side of axles tighter) While attempting several ideas of transmission, I was building another 4x4 model using three differentials. Eventually it became the most advanced version of my SUV models yet being over complex and less reliable. The main feature is sequentially working gearbox and diff lock system. I used Didumos69's Compact 90 degree stepper idea for switching four modes. (0→1→2→3→0 ...) 0: high gear 1: low gear 2: low gear with center diff lock 3: low gear with center/rear diff lock You can see it working in the second half of this video filmed by Rm8. I used M motor instead of Servo motor for switching modes because there was no space for it under the driver's seat. It is necessary to stop motor rotation when stepper axle comes to the right position. Actually this model is too heavy for real off road driving. Center differential often suffered the load, and it was a little bit tricky to operate sequential mechanism precisely from a distance. So I built a lighter and simplified version only using XL and Servo motor. It has softer rear suspension, manual gearbox and center/rear limited slip differential. (Weight: 1260g) Ironically it worked better than fully equipped version even lacking diff lock system. Thanks to soft suspension it has better axle articulation. All four tires well kept contact with the ground. I put it on rocky surface just for taking pictures. Actually it could not climb over those rocks, though. I am making building instructions for both versions. I hope you will like it! -
My latest MOC, the 4x4 crawler! This was modeled off some 1960/70 pickups, hence it’s boxy look. The goal was to have a powerful drive and a winch, with a release like in 42069 so it can be pulled by hand then engaged. I am happy to say that these goals have been achieved. In the video, the crawler has no trouble driving on ice and frozen grass, and I also made a course out of books to test the crawler indoors. When driving outside, the temperature was -2C. The crawler is powered by 2 L motors, steering by a servo motor as well as engine and winch controlled by M motors. Video: Pictures: Thank you so much for watching and reading! Looking forward to your comments! BbBT -
I' ve made a scale model of this russian all terrain vehicle. I've tried to make it as detailed as possible. Video: Functions: - 4x4 driveshaft with differentials (XL motor) - Steering: brakes that block wheels on one side of the vehicle. (M motor) - Working differential lock (M motor) - Working LEDs - Tires from 42054 - Openable front and rear hatches and windscreen, working wipers Everything is controlled remotely using SBrick. The drivetrain with differentials and portal axles: The steering mechanism is, I think, more interesting. Wheels on one side of the vehicle may be blocked using the driving ring. Than differentials transmits all the power to wheels on the other side. (that red connector represents driving ring) And the differential lock. The driving ring connects right and left differential outputs. And photos of side without wheels and the underside: Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I hope you liked this model. -
Hello Eurobricks AFOLs, I am Engine and this is my first post here on EB forum. My friend HorcikDesigns told me, some of you here want to know more about my last MOC. My pleassure! Original Vehicle: As some of you noticed, my MOC should be scale model of Ghe-o Rescue. It is a Romanian rescue vehicle designed for extreme terrain, with a capacity of up to 11 people. Dimensions are: 5.2 m length; 2.7 m width (even wider version exists); 2.4 m higth (without rooftop carrier). The weight is 3.2 tons. Under the bonnet, more engine types can be monted, with the most powerful one with 500 hp. Live axles are used for suspension, both equipted by lockable differentials. There are also built-in water tanks for 620 liters for fire extinguishing. Another specialty is the possibility to mount tracks to rear wheels or pneumatic "pillows" on wheels for floating on water. Tires are also special. It is Arctictrans 1300x700-24 (diameter 1300 mm and width 700 mm). The manufacturer shows off an independent test in which they won over Avtoros and Trecol manufacturers. Here you can see several cars built on them. And because the tire diameter and width exactly match the 1:16 scale to the LEGO "Tumbler" tires Ø81.6x44, the scale of the model was decided. So far I do not know any other LEGO cration of Ghe-o Rescue. MOC: The MOC was designed for Kostky.org Trophy Competition, organized by our technic race event guru Peter. And the task was to build a drivable, remote-controlled, off-road vehicle that would be able to travel about 3 km. And at the same time, it should be as beautiful as possible and with design matches to original vehicles. Terrible task. The dimensions of the model are: 332 x 168 x 168 mm (41.5 x 21 x 21 studs), weight 1.2 kg. The drive is permanently 4x4 without differentials. Axles are not sprung. But thanks to the torsionally soft frame of the vehicle, decent axle crossing is achieved (some LEGO trial experience here). Inside, there is a functional winch with a length of 2.5 m. Good lighting is a necessity for the expedition special. The control is provided by sBrick. The propulsion is made by 1 x PF XL motor with a total gear ratio of 1: 1. Schizophrenic steering is provided by the PF Servo. The winch is driven by a PF M motor via a worm gear (8: 1 ratio). Five pairs of PF lights really shine in front of the car. Electrical source is a battery box with 6 AA batteries. The whole MOC is pure LEGO exept of: sBrick receiver, high strength thread as winch rope, threaded cardans and event mandatory stickers. Drive ability: Drivig speed corresponds to a pleasant walk. Off-road capabilities were adequate to the track. Tire traction did not limit offroad capabilities, but a small power of e-motor did. Then the winch becomes useful, that is able to lift the entire weight of the vehicle. And if it was still not enough, the other "competitors" were there to help. A minor issue was the steering. Thanks to the loose in steering mechanism and occasional insensivity in the mobile app, sometimes I sent it out of the way. A major issue was energy consumption. Within 1.5 km, I drained out three sets of batteries (2x alkaline GP Ultra Plus, 1x rechargeable GP 2700). And yet I do not know how to solve it. But most likely it is caused by PF Servo motor, as we disscussed after the event with other partipiciants. ----- Thank you for comments and questions. Pictures are here in my gallery. Original post on Kostky.org.
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Hey everyone, This MOC is being built for 2 reasons: 1, to celebrate 3 milestones- Canada's 150th anniversary, Technic's 40th anniversary, and me hitting 1000 subscribers on Youtube. In fact, a comment suggested I do this. The second reason is to cure the errors that my 2 previous crawlers had: -weak axles (very weak in fact) -low climbing power -messy building -inefficient steering (used an M motor) -no additional RC functions So here's where I'm at right now: Above is the motor housing. I'm going with 2 L motors for the drive because they have good speed at a sufficient torque. That is the gear housing. Frames are abundant. Now the whole front axle. You can see that it is compact and yet very, very durable. The rear axle. And the two together. This crawler is being built for max performance but awesome looks. So I want to (but may not) do a Tacoma body: Update tomorrow, thanks for reading! BrickbyBrickTechnic
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Hi everybody! Thats my new 4x4 rock crawler. So,here it is Specifications: -4 link suspension -portal axles -rc 108 mm tires -3s li-fe battrey -2 buggy motors -1 sbrick I hope you like it Let's see it in action!
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Hi All, I know, I have unfinished projects enough (published here too), but time for another long-term build. I was lucky enough to find great deal on pneumatic cylinders, and finally I own Claas tires too, these caused to raise the Skidder-particle ppm in my haemodinamics. This is a very old plan of me, basically since I got back from my dark-age with the 8265 in 2009. So this is the plan: http://www.tigercat.com/product/630e-skidder/. I will not build a specific model, but a generous one (610/620/630/632 mixed style), because I am not that much interested in specific models - simply: I love them all (and beside that I am afraid of @M_longer's justifiable criticism ). Finally I found a working design for the grapple with nice range of movement. It has virtual pivot points, and floating cylinder (this is already differs from real-life counterparts), but I wanted to use 1 cylinder only due to tubing - which should be nicely hidden in the boom panels. Some might be not a fan of the Bionicle parts, but I find them right here, and they tend to close properly due the lucky combination of build slack and their pointy-thin design (I might figure out an offset for them, but wasn't successful yet). I made a pure Technic version too, in case. This is how it looks so far (partly built in bricks too - waiting for parts), with Power Puller tires in the model for the scale: Still a very long trip ahead, and I am not fast on building, but I feel passionate, which is a promising sign I guess. Special thanks to: @Lipko for inspiration and for the pneumatic parts in LDD from his majestic Backhoe, @nikolyakov for the beautifully purpose designed and inspiring TC10 entry, @BrickbyBrickTechnic for his 42054 C-model as final motivation, and for Bricklink to make it feasible to emptying my wallet... Every suggestion, criticism for improvement is welcome.
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- 4 wheel drive - 4 wheel steer - 4-cylinder straight fake engine - 4 link axle - 4 long soft shocks for each axle - 4lding seats, rolling wheels - 4 steering there is HOG More photos: Building instructions: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-9667/paave/bigfoot-monster-truck/
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Hi all, Hope everyone enjoys my trio of Lego Technic Jeeps, My MOD Jeeps are loosely based on the classic model from the 8865 test car model. I wanted to create a new version within the same wheel base and track, my first attempt was done in 2004 and was massive. Zoom forward to 2017 and you can see my "red" version. Al lot of the product was borrowed for other kits and Lego builders, however they all had masssive modifications in order to make them fit. I was happy with the "red" model, however the live axle bowed and the macpherson suspension had to much movement. So last week I decided to see if I could change this and in doing so, I ended with a lightweight chassis version. believe it or not, these two models share about 15% similarities, everything else is completely redesigned. enjoy the photos! Trio of Jeeps To see more images please view my Flickr albums Lego Tyres Builds -
Hello everyone, as i didn't see any Mods topic for this set, i decided to start it myself, and to start, i would like to share with you the LDD file for the official set (not sure if there was one already), there are some parts missing and some pieces are not fully connected (could i have used developer mode to solve this? yes, but for some reason i decided just to place apart the pieces i couldn't fit in), here is the model: Missing parts: -x4 24118 Panels in Dark Purple (Brick-built and grouped in the model) -x11 6167281 (I didn't add any substitute) -x1 6187734 (The rope) LDD file:http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/42069/42069.lxf And next is my modifications for this set so far, the first thing that i wanted to do was to put wheels and tires, and because this is an snow-themed set, i decided to put tumbler tires, and i knew that these tires didn't look good in those very wide axles, with these tires the vehicle would look silly, but after narrowing the axle a little bit, i think it is looking like an authentic snow expedition vehicle (it even looks like an JLTV from the sides), i also changed some colors, but is just a test (the model is still WIP): The goal is XL-Motor for drive, Servo Motor for steering and M or L-Motor for the winch (and possibly some lights): I hope you like it, i will try to make more improvements, and i am looking forward to see more modifications by any other member, have happy modding. -
It's a monster truck with a 4x4 trasmission and 2 speed gearbox powered by a SBrick. This MOC is very powerful because the first gear generates a great gear ratio. The chassis is simply and very strong and the suspensions are attacked to him. I couldn't use the "large hard shock absorbers" because i haven't them, so i used the "small soft shock absorbers". I added a V6 working motor, a rear openig hatch, and lights too! These pictures above are of the old version, in fact the axles and the position of the SBrick in the images are different from the current ones (below). The differential is removable to ensure more traction. The gearbox is very compact and strong (on that I worked a lot of time). The green axle is the input, while the red one is the output: the yellow gears are interested for the first gear and the blue ones for the second gear. The first gear has a gear ratio of 5:1 (very powerful), while the second gear has a gear ratio of 3.3:1 (balanced). The gear ratios were calculated by adding the gear ratio of the all transmission system, ie 3.3. And this is the outdoor video! I hope you enjoy my MOC! Leave a comment and a Like! ;) -
A small chassis and a few questions, universal or cv joint?, shock absorbers or leaf springs?, I wanted to avoid the panhard rod if is possible. Drive axles are robust and very difficult to dismantle withot remove axles, in the end it will be a kind of small truck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLvIK8Xj-tQ&t=0m0s
