THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!
Search the Community
Showing results for tags '9V'.
Found 12 results
-
Hello everyone. I'm new here and I have a question regarding the possible voltage for 9V Lego train motors. First of all, I'm from germany and 34 years old. I've played and build with Lego since I was 4. I loved the 12V trains back in the 80's and their advantages over newer systems. But the 12V system had a big disadvantage: the middle power tracks. I absolutely hated them because of the looks and that they bend up often so the trains got stuck. I love the 9V tracks and currently I run every train on 9V and use my 12V transformator for trainstation and town lights and for remote the railroad crossing. So I use 2 transformators, one 9V and one 12V. It would be nice to use only one of them. And that would be the 12V because the 9V is not strong enough to power the lights and has no seperate connection that is always at full power. So remote the railroad crossing is impossible too. But it would be possible for me to connect the 12V transformator to the 9V tracks. Now my question: Would a 9V train motor run at 12V? Or will it get too hot or even burn? I hope someone here can answer my question or has any other ideas. Thanx^^
-
Dear all Train Tech guys, Thanks to the kindness of SBrick team I got two SBrick units for some testing - one of them was built into my LEGO MÁV Stadler FLIRT electric motor unit, another one into my LEGO MÁV Siemens Taurus electric locomotive. We tried as well to install SBrick between 9V Train Speed regulator and a loop of 9V track, where usual 9V-based trams were running. Fig.1. TFOL driving SBrick-controlled Stadler FLIRT on our layout. 1. SBrick installation For first, a quick overview for those, who don’t know, how SBrick works. If you are familiar with the smart brick, you surely can skip this chapter. To imagine SBrick it is the easiest to think about a normal LEGO Power Functions IR Receiver with four outputs, more channels and without the restriction of the infrared technology - with other words your smartphone or device doesn’t need “visual” contact to the receiver unit, thanks to the bluetooth connection. Also it works surely fine within the range of 50 metres, but by good circumstances it works from 100 metres as well. Other great advantage, that SBrick’s current limitation is 3 Ampers per output, while PF IR receiver has 800 mA - better choice if you want to run something heavier then avarage 6W trains. Fig.2. The SmartBrick unit. (Photo taken from sbrick.com.) SBrick could be powered with normal LEGO battery boxes or LiPo rechargeable battery with a Power Function extension cable. It is also possible to power SBrick from old 9V battery boxes or even a 9V Train Speed Regulator, using the 9V/PF end of the extension cable. In this case you should check, if the little green light on SBrick is on - depending on polarity the SBrick is enpowered, or nothing happens. You can plug on your train motors, lights, other PF motors on the SBrick’s four outputs. Next step is to design your remote control interface for your device. To do this, you need to be registered on social.sbrick.com, then go to designer.sbrick.com to create your profiles. The profile designer works in most of the web browsers properly, you can add sliders, joysticks and buttons to it. It is really advised to fill the “name” field in setting - later you need to know, which slider do what when configuring SBrick. Sliders work like old RC Train Remote control, joystick is an advanced slider, buttons works like turn on and off. For all controllers you can configure maximum output - if you want to limit your train’s maximum speed, quite easy to do, setting a value lower then 1 to maximum output. Also you can set up, if the controller will reset to zero or not, when you stop touching the screen of your device. You can set background for your controller, you can change the design of the sliders, joysticks and buttons - we have dozen of previously created ones, but you can use also own-designed images as well. Fig.3. My profiles designed for event TEMOFESZT 2015. Upper one manages three SBricks at the same time, a tram line with a slider, the ferris-wheel with a button (0.3 maximum output) and two other sliders my FLIRT train. Theoretically, if your screen is big enough, you can manage 16 SBricks and 64 funtions at the same time from the same device - perfect tool to operate a whole layout. After the profile is done, you should connect your MOC to your device. To do this, you need the SBrick application (or for quick play SBrick Tester application). Create a new Creation in SBrick application, turn on SBrick in your MOC, add SBrick to your creation and download your profile to your device. Then click connected SBrick (or SBricks) in your Creations menu, and pair sliders and buttons (if you named them before, it is easier :) ) to the outputs (A,B,C,D) of the SBrick in your MOC. After doing this, click the profile in the app you made for your MOC, and start playing :) 2. SBrick & Stadler FLIRT Surely most of you know this creation. It is my 8 stud wide electric motor unit, the original train manufactured by the swiss Stadler company. The LEGO train’s weight is around 3,5 kg-s, previously it was driven by two 9V train motors and two PF train motors, connected to 9V ones. The train also has front-tail lights (using modded PF leds, described in RailBricks #9) and interior lights - three functions to operate. Fig.4. Cables and cables - all of my train’s funtions connected to the SBrick unit. The bigger battery box (which never turns off) grants continiouos availability until the batteries die. As before, I sacrificed the toilette part of the interior to install electric parts - the big AA battery box powers the SBrick unit, and functions are mounted on the outputs. I had a small issue here with the design of the SBrick - if you plug more than one PF cables on the lower (C,D) outputs, it will be inpossible to plug any to A and B. So if you have to plug more than one on some output, you should put them on A and B, or if three output needs more than one plugs, you should insert an additional extension cable first to lower one C and D, and then plug your needed cable ends to the extension cable. In the train now boogie 2 and 4 are driven - 9V train motors are removed, and normal train wheels replaced them at boogie 1 and 5. The third (middle) boogie is unpowered as well. Operating the train is quite easy, if you learn, how to use your touchscreen properly. Since I have direction dependent front-tail lights, I named on my profile (refer to Fig.3) the two ends of my train “A” and “B”, just like the real thing. When starting, I always turn on lights for first, and later if I press the same direction of driving slider, the train will start into the direction of three white lights on it’s front. This could be especially important, when you have a layout where trains are running not only around on one loop, but they direction can be changed at wye-s, and you can’t exactly remember, which end is which on your fully symmetric train or loco. Fig.5. Wye-s designed by Bill Ward. Perfect way to get lost, where your train will depart when you touch the screen, or even turn the PF remote control around. Operation time was fine - the SBrick unit doesn’t take more power than the PF receiver unit, with the pack of AA rechargeable batteries I operated my train for a full day (exhibiton was opened between 10 am and 6 pm), the train was running for 2,5-3 hours before powered down, and it wasn’t turned off for all the day. Also I tested the train at home for continouos running - after 15-20 mins the PF-train motors got too hot and and train stopped, while SBricks temperature raised from 36-38 °C to 44-46 °C. (You can get voltage and temperature data using the SBrick tester application.) The SBrick unit works fine - I doubted it will manage my quite heavy train (compared to avarage trains built by AFOLs), but it served really good - the more problems I had with the software part. The SBrick application written for Android have several problems - not serious ones, but quite annoying. Connection problems Sometimes the application can’t reconnect to the SBrick. It happens when you exit from the driving screen from your smartphone or tablet (in this case the connection will be dropped automatically), and then you turn on again your controller - it starts to reconnect, then askes if SBrick is powered. This connection issue may happen if you connect your MOC from an another device while the first device is disconnected - until you are connected to the MOC with the second device, you can’t reconnect with the first one. The reconnection problem happened when the second device got disconnected as well. Also using the SBrick and SBrick tester applications from the same device can lead to this reconnection problem. Fortunately, all outputs of the SBrick are resetted to zero when you device loses connection with your train, so no accidents may happen. Fixing connection problems As I experienced, restarting SBrick application helps in most of the cases. If this doesn’t help, in your creation’s menu you should remove the SBrick, then add it again, reconfigure it, and it will work. Application crashes Smartbirck application crashed for dozen times during the three days - mostly when attempting to reconnect. Slider problem Basically I used “slider”-s to drive my trains. I don’t exactly know, how the software part of the sliders are written, but the first 80% of the length of the slider from zero (middle) point is quite useless in train operations. After reaching 80%, the train starts slowly moving, but it is really hard to set up the train speed properly on the remaining 20% length of the slider bar. As far as I know a totally new application for SBrick is under contruction, so the output function for the sliders and joysticks will be redesigned in the near future to avoid this problem, and hopefully previously mentioned connection problems and crashes will disappear as well. 3. SBrick & Siemens Taurus locomotive During the summer event of Kockajáték Club I installed one the SBricks to my Siemens Taurus locomotive. The loco works with two Power Function train motors, connected to the old RC train base - SBrick was placed on the output of the train base, so to turn it on for first I needed to give maximum power from the train base. Check this video of the locomotive pulling cars, and controlled from a distance. With this locomotive we made also some fun tests with the train guys hanging around - we put ten of our 8W, 58-64 stud long coaches on the locomotive to pull them. When the magnet coupling didn’t fail (with careful driving) the SBrick unit (and the two PF train motors) could pull all the cars, but the SmartBrick got really hot in less than 5 minutes - we reached the 90 °C temperature easily, and the SBrick got shut down by temperature protection. After couple of seconds it cooled down, and the smartphone reconnected to it. The whole weight of the pulled train was around 11 kilograms. 4. Controlling traditional 9V lines with SmartBrick Using an SBrick doesn’t mean you have to give up your 9V trains, tracks and motors. Get a 9V speed regulator, put SBrick on its output with a PF extension cable, and use the same cable to enpower the 9V loop, putting the dark bluish gray end on the Smartbrick and the light bluish gray end to the part you connect to the 9V tracks. Turn on speed regulator to maximum, put a 9V train on the loop - and now your 9V creation could be controlled from everywhere in a 50 metres radius circle, not just from the speed regulator. Putting more sliders connected to more loops will give you the oppourtunity to controll all your layout from the same place, while you don’t need tons of 9V extension cables to put every speed regulator at the same place. SBrick is even a powerful tool when you don’t have loops, just sections isolated from each other, like analogous model railway - every section could be controlled as described by loops. If you motorise switches with PF motors and connect them to SBrick, you can manage almost everything only using your touchscreen. 5. Conclusions SBrick is a powerful device to make your LEGO trains work with minor issues. The greatest advantage of SBrick that you need no vision to the receiver unit and you can controll your trains from a great distance - no more runaway trains thanks to the limitations of PF IR receiver. SBricks is also compatible with older 9V-based stuff - those who doesn’t want to switch to the newest LEGO train system can use it as well. The current limitation allows you to make really big and heavy trains to run - which is almost impossible when using original PF IR receiver. On the other hand - one SBrick unit is quite expensive, one brick costs £40 and taxes. However this price is not that high if you compare the possibilities to the possibilities what three PF IR receivers can give you for the same amount of money. Current SBrick application has minor issues as well, crashes and disconnects are quite annoying, and the application won’t work propely on all Android-based smart devices. For final words, I really advise to everyone who is into trains, especially at big shows to make a try with SmartBrick. Running only one train with your phone or controlling a whole layout with one screen - the decision is up to you. Video of the functions described above:
-
I have some difficulties in placing this topic in correct section. Should it be Trains? On the other hand it is supposed to work in a modular town, that's why I put it in Town. This is my biggest creation so far. Actually those are two modulars designed to be placed together on a display. The depth is 48 studs instead of regular 32 because of tracks and platform. I decided it was unrealistic to stick to 32 and still have decent building. Anyway, on with presentation :) What I hope is apparent from the picture above is that I incorporated some lights into these structures. The old 9V battery box is in the warehouse and gives power to all six pairs of lights (2x 9V in warehouse and 4x PF in station). There is also old style 9V switch that controls turning lights on and off without the need to reach for the battery box (black switch on the side of the warehouse). Before I show you the warehouse let's have a look at the platform: The warehouse: This is how the electric parts are distributed in the warehouse. You can also see the inside with some pallets and a cupboard for employees. Now, let's have a look at the station building: First - the roof. This is where I put all the lights that go with the station. This is how it looks like from the underside: That's 4 pairs of PF lights, one PF extension cable and one 9V cable to provide easy to disconnect outlet. The station itself has some nice flowers on the front, benches for passengers, some roof over the platform and a phone booth. That's what you could already see from the outside. So let's have a look inside :) There is a bit o a stir at the moment because of some careless passenger. Don't worry - this is being cleaned as we speak :) Looking from the front of the station you have confectionery that sells ice cream too and on the right your typical railway station fast food stand (with microwave in case your yesterday pizza is cold! :D) Looking from the platform side on the left there are some tables belonging to the restaurant, ticket booth and some waiting area. On the right there is an obligatory public toilet :), two gaming machines and luggage deposit lockers. If you wonder how it looks in town - its natural environment - here are just a couple of pictures: Full gallery is available as always on my Bricksafe: http://bricksafe.com...-with-warehouse
-
I have almost completely migrated to PF powered models, but still build som "old" 9Volt powered models. When building small shunter yard locomotives, it certainly helps to only have a 9V motor, and to be able to focus on detailing more than hiding bulky PF components. My design is partly based on E69:s built by PolLUG and LatLUG. Base is 7wide with 6wide hoods and 6 2/3 studs cabin, and overall length just 16studs (buffers not counted). With extensive use of SNOT and various offsets, I think the look is quite prototypical. Feel free to comment. (if I manage to upload photos.....)
-
The story behind Born in the late 70s, I grew up in the 80s. My favourite themes were town (I received nearly all town sets from that era), and technic. Moreover, I'd always like to have one of those beautiful 4,5/12V train sets, like 7735 or 7745. But my parents told me that I could either get technic stuff set or train sets, but not both themes together. So, it always ended up with increasing my technic collection... In 1991, I saw a new chance. A new system, a new era. 4563 was the set to go. But again, my parents refused, arguing that I would be too old for Lego in general. They were right, I went on to buy my first computer (which is another story) and bought my last Lego sets in 1992. The dark ages started. But they were not 100% dark, as I never missed to grab the new catalog each year, what helped to keep me on track. Some years ago, the dark ages were gone and I went into PF trains. Simply because they were available easily, they were affordable and they were close to 80s looks and standards. In contrast to the city theme, where cars and everything else seems to be extremely blown up, compared to 80s 4wide standards. The story today I never planned to get into 9V trains. TLG has dropped the 9V system quite some years ago, even the support has ended. Sets and parts are highly sought after, and therefore rather expensive, even if they are in used condition. But some days ago, it happened: I managed to get an unbuilt 4558 Metroliner at a reasonable price. I just couldn't resist. Seals are loose due to age, but the parts are still in their trans-clear bags. Opening the set The top of the box looks rather worn: Parts in sorting tray and polybags: Sorting tray, foil is still sticking firmy: Compared to today's sets, the amount of parts looks somewhat small: Instructions in perfect condition, stickers look also very good: What's next? I don't know. Keep the set unbuilt? Build it? Try to get a box which is in better condition? Try to swap it against an unbuilt 4563 set?
-
Hello all, I haven't posted something for a while. mainly because I have resorted all my bricks. Anyway here is what I've been busy with lately: First raw sketch for LowLUG by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr And here are the first two modules Second progress shots by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr Bonus MOC I never posted here: And for the interested: The topic on the forum of Lowlug which this is going te be part of (Dutch link)
-
Hello all, I want to present you all my newest MOC: Switch Engine UW [front/right] by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr It is an switcher for railyards. The build is 7 studs wide. Switch Engine UW [front/left] by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr Switch Engine UW [back] by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr Switch Engine UW by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr Switch Engine UW It is used by the fictional company UW. As you can see my sticker skills are far from perfect. Thanks for reading, Comments, constructive criticism and likes are always appreciated. Erwin by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr
-
I've built a huge Lego train layout which is fully automated by microcontrollers, Arduino. The passenger trains 7740 and 7745 ride around and after a while they stop at the station. The freight trains 7755 and 7760 intersect with the track of the 7745. A section of the track of the freight trains can be powered down: if the 7745 passes the intersection, the 7755 and the 7760 will stop. The trains use PWM signals to start and stop. For starting is actually needed: otherwise the locomotive will disconnect from the wagons and drive away by itself. Video: I've built it in my living room so unfortunately I have to tear it down again :(
-
Hey Guys! Everyone has that one story where they find a set for a great price! This is the place to share it! I love to hear stories like these as it also brings up what sites so others may be able to find deals there too! It can be anywhere from when you were a child to present, 60's, 70's, etc. I will start! I bought an MISB 4533 (9v Era Snow plow) off ebay for about $35 this year, the cheapest I have seen them was $45 dollars. Saved me $10 (Hopefully a good investment) Sealed 4533 by Railco1, on Flickr Also on ebay I got an MISB 4541 Road and Rail, for $40 the cheapest I have seen being sold is $65, savings of $25! Sealed 4541 by Railco1, on Flickr I cannot wait to hear everyone's stories. This is meant to be fun and an enjoyable thread. Enjoy! -RailCo [Moderators! this is meant to be an on going topic so if people post on it a year late, that should be okay]
-
What happens if you mix LEGO, black Delrin and some 0-gauge railroading stuff? Well, with the right tools you can make custom power pickups (no LEGO modification necessary). Here's how: Custom power pickup (parts) by alainneke, on Flickr From top left to right bottom: steel 0-gauge wheel, custom made insulated flanged bushing (which fits the steel wheel to a standard 2mm LEGO train axle), ball contact (rubs against backside of the wheel), spring (pushes the ball contact against the wheel), custom made flanged bushing (holds both the ball contact and spring and fits in a Technic hole), Technic brick, miniature connector. The steel wheel is manufactured by NWSL, the ball contacts come from a German website specialised in 0-gauge stuff and the connector is a standard Marklin connector cutted in half. The bushings are machined from an 8mm rod of Delrin on a mini-lathe (for the curious, a picture is in my photostream) and made to be a friction-fit to the wheel and Technic brick. Custom power pickup (partial assembled) by alainneke, on Flickr Putting these parts together, you get a train axle with steel wheels (both insulated from the axle) and a spring-loaded ball contact. Custom power pickup assembly by alainneke, on Flickr Combining these two, add a wheel holder and voila: a custom power pickup. Custom power pickup bogie by alainneke, on Flickr After soldering on some wires, I've fitted the pickups to one of the bogies of my Emerald Night tender. Emerald Night tender with steel weels by alainneke, on Flickr The diameter of the 0-gauge wheels is the same as the standard LEGO train wheels, but the flange is a lot smaller. This gives a nice clickety-clack on the turnouts, but can also lead to derailments. It turns out that the manufacturer of the steel wheels also makes 'pizza cutter' style wheels, and these have already been ordered... Emerald Night tender with steel wheels by alainneke, on Flickr The wires can be connected to the LiPo battery, a DCC chip, a PF motor, lights, ... The pickups actually work better than the ones on the original 9V motor: the wheels make contact with the railhead using the tread instead of just a little part of the flange. Please comment!
-
Hello, when I have seen the new LEGO City Town Square (60097) first in Nuremberg at the international toy fair, the Tram of this set was really the highlight. Since then, I thought about, how to motorize this train - and if it is possible. The good answer is: It isn't a big deal - and looks really cool. Now, the tram is a kind of 9V highspeed-train - if you want. This is my video - lets start the journey: What do you think? Best wishes Andres
-
I'm not sure whether to consider myself lucky or unlucky since I have an addictive personality. I know the basics. The three sets 6990, 6991 & 6399 and some of the aspects that make all of them unique. I also know that Mono means one and rail means . . . . (wait for it) . . . . . rail. I managed to land a second-offer for $75 on a really mixed bag on e-bay. All of the baseplates for airport 6392, instructions for 6395, 577 and a whole bunch of other stuff. 4 long monorail turns, 9 long straights, and one extremely short straight, and a bunch of stands for the monorail. I also got at least one (I think two) of the baseplate bogie things to build the monorail on the 6990 instructions, random pieces from the set, & the 9V battery box. There's a couple of things that I'm obviously missing off the hop. The first is the motor (currently bidding on one on E-bay) - wish me luck! My winnings are currently at my US warehouse so I cannot really view them (might have to wait till mid-May) I obviously want a couple of those pieces to stop or reserve the train in the interim and then afterwards some incline tracks and switches (all of which will be expensive). Is there anything that I need to know right away?? Other than the fact that I might want some old-school light grey 1 X 4 plates stat??? Kind of patiently waiting to see what I do have in this oddity lot, there's a chassis from model team, another from Technic, the car carrier and the supports for the raceway 6395. Windup motor, pull-back motor, weird plane wheels, a police boat?? By far this is the single most screwed up lot of lego that I've ever purchased. I've put the link below if you want to check it out (guy who won had zero feedback and didn't pay, hence the price discrepancy, I should mention that the pics of the guy's socks haven't led me to fall in love with him. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-lego-set-pieces-monorail-boat-power-station-futuron-books-accesories-/221737792641
