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(Click to skip to the post with the latest photos) The Backstory: For years I've wanted to be able to display my 12v collection at shows/exhibitions/libraries or wherever, but the wiring is a challenge - I reckon on my last full layout there was 250 to 300 feet (75-90 metres) of the stuff, which on a static layout is one thing, but one built in modules for transport is a challenge. Three or four months ago I came up with a solution (more on that below) and the dreaming started. After much playing in Bluebrick, and nostalgic posts appearing here about older era trains, I settled on a plan. I still had a bunch of my old blue track from the 4.5v era, but no motors. Off we go to Bricklink then! The Layout So, here's the plan. Ten years ago I had a small portable layout on 4 modules, each 3x5 baseplates, and over the years have simply added more of these. Following my Bricklink spree, I now have 2 working 4.5v motors, so rebuilt the loco from set 183 and I have the loco from 7720 in progress. These 2 will feature on the 4.5v loop below, which is 3 of those modules. Next to the 4.5v loop will be the showpiece, the main 12v loops. 12v Lower by andyglascott, on Flickr And on the right of the layout will be the 9v loops. Unlike the other 2 eras, I will have 9v track left over, so this is likely to be expanded in due course, particularly as @michaelgale releases motors, power supply etc. 9v Loops by andyglascott, on Flickr Lastly, there will be another 12v loop, elevated, which will run across the back of all three eras. 12v Upper by andyglascott, on Flickr Putting all of those together looks like this (the white baseplates are roughly where the mountains, tunnels etc will be for the elevated sections. The green and grey sections are simply so I could keep track of where the 3x5 modules were to try and avoid having curves/points on more than one module. When it all comes together, in most likely a couple of years, I'll be able to run 6 trains at a time. Whole Layout by andyglascott, on Flickr The Beginning After all the planning, and clearing away of my last (incomplete) layout, I've finally started building the first module, part of the 4.5v loop. I decided to start here as this will be the quickest era to build, and to a large extent, each era can also be displayed as a stand-alone smaller layout. These three modules will be countryside/farmland, and the trains will reflect the farming side of it when they get built. Module 01 Pic 02 by andyglascott, on Flickr The 12v Wiring The solution that I've come up with is fairly simple, but does involve taking a drill to some baseplates.... At each of the 12v points or signals I'll drill a small hole through the baseplate and the wood for each module, thread the wire through and attach either the original Lego plugs or a quick connect/release plug/connector so that when the layout is set up I'll use already measured lengths of wire to go from that point to the control panels, which will be on their own module. This is going to be a heck of a journey, and build, I'll post updates from time to time, particularly at landmark moments such as completing an "era". I always said, growing up, I was keeping my Lego for my kids. It was really only an excuse, and I'm really glad I didn't sell my old blue track even though I didn't, for years, think I'd use it. Sadly my original 4.5v motors, battery boxes, lights and even signals are long gone, but I was only 7 or 8 when I got 7720.... -
Hello everyone! What kind of ideas pop into your head when you hear of a "cmf 8x8 vignette contest"? Mind you, I eventually thought of Micromotor, 9V, Fiber Optics and a matching figure capable of delivering the goods (hint: it did). Here's what came out of that idea... Just a dance club, folks! Nothing to see here, carry on... It is fairly tall for a vig, but it certainly works give the space restrictions. The dim lights were a pain to film in my setting, although I tried my best. The show must go on, no excuses allowed! And no regrets for that matter. Welcome the Catwoman from the Batman Movie franchise! Double the fun!! Some technical shots. The old 9V system is invaluable for how smoothly it integrates into Lego System. Fitting the fiber optics element into 8x8 was one hell of a task. At times I felt like a car thief on a job... The floor, oh, the floor! Don't even ask. Some bits and pieces. The pole absolutely had to be chrome - a choice afterwards regretted... I dare you to find a sound, functional and purist solution of proper length if you don't believe me. A rubber wheel was the only option of attaching the piece as far as my knowledge of pieces goes. ...And the heat goes on... Now that's a club I wouldn't at all mind visiting... Hope you had a great time here, be sure to visit soon! And something tells me you might just do that... Thanks for your attention! Let me know if you had as much fun as I did! x)
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Hey guys, Recently bought a large lot of vintage 9V train sets and parts. The 9V AC/DC wall plugs are the 230V European version. Anyone have any recommendations on replacements for 110V US? Was looking at these ones on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-9V-Power-Adapter/dp/B00191WVF6/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&dpID=41UoeHnCcDL&dpPl=1&keywords=9v power supply&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&qid=1518564574&ref=plSrch&ref_=mp_s_a_1_3&sr=8-3 but not quite sure on the plug type... Thanks, Jeffinslaw
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Hi all, this time I'd like to show you something that is a bit different. It is more a study, or an experiment than a real model. It's is a very small narrow gauge locomotive, inspired by an hand-made creation of Mr. Akio Inoue (who is a famous live steam builder in Japan). The locomotive is depicted on Mr. Mori Iroshi site, which is of great inspiration to me. There's also a Youtube channel (simply search AKUBI LR on Google, you''l find it immediately). Let's say it is a mix between a DEKI-3 and a Rhatische-Bahn GE 2/2 162. Once it was yellow, now it has RhB colors. It's a bit "Japanese" since it has a super-deformed body, it is more tall than long. "Power" (HA HA HA ) is coming from a 9v micromotor mounted upside-down, and there's a working headlight. It needs a battery car to work. I use it on black narrow-gauge Lego curved track, but I recently discovered that LEMAX track has the same gauge and offers straight tracks (no switches, sorry ). It is sloooooooooooooooooooow! I hope you like this little,nerdish thing! It's name is PKZIP (like the file compression archiver for DOS PCs of the past)
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Hello all, I'd like to introduce my latest MOC, the Siemens Vectron locomotive of GySEV/ROeEE railway company. These locomotive appeared only months ago on Hungarian rails, the Austrian-Hungarian railway company, GySEV/ROeEE bought 9 of these with different equipment. Some of them are dual-voltage and run under 25kV, 50Hz (Hungary) and 15kV, 16.7Hz (Austria), some of them are capable to work with DC supply as well, and 2 of them with the two different AC-supply will get diesel units inside to ensure the locos can move on industrial tracks not electrified at all. When these locomotives started to appear I designed it in LDD, there was a little competition between Hungarian LEGO train fans with the design. I was the first who finished the virtual build and I loved it, so I decided to build it as soon as possible. This was the first versions, but only AC-DC locomotives have 4 pantographs, the AC-only types have only two of them. I'm quite proud of the angular green tile in the side pattern and also the angled front needed a little thinking around. I started to love the old hing plates with two and three teeth - these teeth do NOT brake the line of the hinge plate and the whole LEGO part fit into less space and easier to build other things on the top of these bricks. The slots for lights are also capable of to be lit by LEGO LED lights - another good invention introduced first in my Stadler FLIRTs to use the flexible exoforce tubes which are capable of bringing the light of PF LEDs where I need that light. You may ask why is that M-motor hanging around - it has a great importance in this model! As the real thing with two different AC-supply, my Vectron works under two different LEGO-voltages - it is compatible with 9V track and 12V track as well! The M-motor switches a polarity switch brick, which cuts off 12V pickups from 9V train motor's contacts - when the locomotive runs in 9V mode, the pickups for 12V track could touch the same rail when going through 9V points, and the loco could short circuit herself! When the loco runs in 12V mode, the polarity switch is ON, and the 9V train motors are supplied from 12V track. At the other end of the locomotive there is an another M-motor - it cuts off the 9V train motor from the output of the controlling SBrick - it won't be a wise idea to power that SBrick both from battery box and both from the 9V track, through its output... Look at the next image, how it works: So if the locomotive reaches the end of electrified track (12V or 9V), it still can carry her train forward - it can run on internal battery box as well. And finally, yes, these stuff did fit into the model: (Since the lower light on each side serves as red and white light on the real thing and upper slot serves for long distance lights at night I put white lights on the upper, red lights on the lower slots.) Also some other images and further details can be found in Hispabrick Magazine #29: http://www.hispabrickmagazine.com/sites/default/files/Descargas/HBM029_ENG.pdf Comments and critics welcome! Some other photos: -
Hi, I've been away for a while, and without writing a huge story about it, I'm wondering what the status of third party 9v track and accessories is. I was a backer for ME Models metal track - I was also one of the people who expanded their order back in the summer of 2016, and received my full shipment last January. I take it they are having a lot of problems now, and a lot of people did not receive their product. That's really unfortunate... we need some successful players in this market, even if it means higher prices to cover costs. I was recently able to finally set up the track for my annual Christmas train set up - the only time I get to keep out a functioning train layout. The ME track was... interesting. Coming from all LEGO, I will say the conductivity seemed flawless compared to years past, where I always seemed to have bad track along the way somewhere that made the train slow, even after cleaning. I was very impressed with it. That said, the larger radius curved seemed to suffer from not being perfect arcs when put together. Putting the track together - and keeping it together while trying to connect other track, was also fairly frustrating - and I ended up just not using the end plastic pieces that join sections together, and instead just let the traditional rail joiners hold them together. But I checked ME recently, and as we all know there is no more track available. I was so optimistic at the time if the campaign - even answering surveys of what I would like to see next (like new motors). So I searched here.... bricktracks seemed like it would have been worth a shot, but the campaign failed, probably because it was competing with the ME campaign, but I don't know. Still, bricktracks seems like a functioning business - but I only see plastic in the store. So is there any news that I'm missing? I really don't want to just give it up - I really dislike battery operated for a number of reasons.
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Hi there, I've noticed whilst testing 'Electric Technic Motor 9V Geared 480rpm' (47154) http://peeron.com/inv/parts/47154, it was making a strange buzzing noise whilst going both clockwise and anti-clockwise. Could this mean one or more of the internal gears are failing? Thankfully, there are four thin screws on the bottom which allow the motor to be taken apart. Are replacement gears obtainable? If not, then I have to have them either 3D Printed or cast in a silicone mold. Thanks. -
Hi to all, Here is a short video of the last event I participate with All spanish replicas of Renfe from Aitoruco and myself. 2 diferent loops with r104 custom curves (printed by blastem), 20Bps cable bridge (Designed by Sheppo), R104 trains (designed by Aitoruco and MTRkustoms) and also working narrow gauge (by MTRkustoms) Enjoy it -
It's 7 weeks till Christmas week from now and you know what that means? Tis Christmas Train season coming up quickly! Some of you may remember me setting up a little train layout in my office last year. All colleagues loved it very much and so this year me and some colleagues are expanding the office train for this year! Compared to last year the new office train will be about 60% more track, 70% more cars and can carry more than 50% more "real cargo" than last years train! This year's office train will feature the following: - T-Shaped 9V layout with 3 stations (calling at 3 different desks, so everyone in this particular office has access to the train) - 4 Track wide cargo cerminal and card - 20m of track length in total - 16 cars in total - Original Santa Fe Super Chief Engine upgraded with the original light brick - Candy wagon for storing and transporting real eatable candy - Band wagon for transporting a bluetooth speaker and stage for the BrickBand - PF shunting engine for the Power Functions yard - A small handcar (this is an inside joke with colleagues) - Winter Holiday Train which I built yesterday I'm super excited - construction will begin this week. We'll see how far we can build it during lunch breaks. Pictures will follow shortly after! But to get me started, I have a couple of questions: How does one operate a 9V layout with two transformers? Do they plug in parallel (i.e. exactly the same way on both transformers)? What power settings do I use when running a train with two 9V motors (power setting the same on both transformers)? Do I have to unplug one of them if I run a smaller train with only one 9V motor, or do I just not bring up power on one of them? Thanks in advance for answering my questions! Here's the planned layout for this year's office train:
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I am so excited with Lego's news about their reselling the Taj Mahal, because there's always the possibility that this is just the start of something big, and we could be getting an affordable chance to buy classic sets that we missed out on, or don't want to pay the current online prices. I remember with the arrival of the internet how cool it was to go to places like Lugnet, and then to Ebay, and being shocked at how much trains had gone up in price, even just from 1980 to 2000. Then after everyone complained online about how they missed out on the Metroliner, it suddenly reappeared like a legendary phoenix. With the Club Car in tow! At the time, it made perfect sense bringing back the first 9v train while 9v was still going strong. 10 years seems to be the magic number for rereleases with Lego, as seen with the Legends line, and now Taj Mahal. So I was wondering, what if any trains do you think Lego could/should rerelease? Could they take old 12v and 9v sets and swap in Power Functions? What about the Train Shed, or Santa Fe Super Chief? Emerald Night? Are there any regular retail trains sold after 9v that people are clamoring for a return of, as we saw with the Metroliner almost 20 years ago? Is a train related rerelease even feasible with Lego today? I would love to hear what others think is possible / desired. Personally I wish I could buy more Santa Fe cars for regular retail price! -
Hey guys new to the forum but not to lego. Just started a new Youtube channel where Im speed building all the old sets i got when i was a kid. They range from about 1990-2009. Im just getting going on the channel so the list of sets will build as I go. I have roughly 2-250 sets so if you're a fan of older sets check it out. Thanks Travis -
Addendum to “Electrify your train switches” Dear all, much has been said and shown about ways to electrify LEGO 9V/PF train switches. Along with the EB electrify your train switches thread and some other posts on EB and elsewhere there hardly is anything interesting to add. But then … as said before, I am just wrapping up more than a decade of years of fun with my train layout. My switch electrification approach is far less driven by achieving “to scale modeling” or “most elegant solutions”, it is governed by “using as many diverse LEGO motors as possible” on a more or less standardized and simple drive base design “using as little parts as possible”. I simply like to make efficient use of the stuff in my LEGO boxes – since there are about 30 switch points on my layout. There are a couple of my personal design lines: Since some areas of the layout are rather “dense”, the footprint of the drive mechanism should be as small as possible A clearance that is a little greater as compared to the original configuration with the manual switch stand installed. The reason is that some of my rolling stock MODs/MOCs have a fairly large “overhang” in curves and thus need some additional clearance when passing switch points The switch drive should not fall apart even after prolonged operation as almost half of my tracks are hidden behind bookshelves and other furniture. No modification of the switch – this means that the force required to throw the switch is often considerable. The rendering below shows one very simple base design for my switch drives. It consists of a couple of Technic as well as plain bricks and plates. The rendering is already 5 years old – time is flying. This particular drive mechanism has one serious disadvantage: Operated with the full torque of the PF motors (e.g. with the PF bang-bang remote #8885) it falls apart after five or so cycles. This issue is rather easily overcome, when the torque of the driving motor is adjusted via power control and pulse timing using a programmable brick as for example an RCX or Scout. It took me ages to figure out how to accomplish that: Adjust the length (e.g. 0.3 s) and the power (on LEGO’s 0 – 7 range) for the motor “on” state. This LDraw file contains all the above varieties; the individual sub models combine to any of the drives shown. (Note that you may need to install the unofficial LDraw library as of 2016 to correctly load the files). Alternatively, paying more careful attention to the original EB switch point electrification thread entry (https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/44821-electify-your-train-switches/&page=3) would have told me that Jonathan uses his NXT to do exactly that – and for long! The switch is thrown by a lever, which fits into the space between the two mounts for the manual switch stand. By small variations of the actual gear configuration, almost all typical LEGO motors can be attached. The geared varieties [e.g., PF M motor (#8883), Technic mini motor (#71427, #43362), Technic motor geared (#47154), or even the Mindstorms MicroScout PBrick (#32344] are driving the lever with none or low additional gearing ratios; the ungeared Technic motor (#2838) requires higher gear ratios to work properly. The advantage of this drive design is the footprint (as measured on the floor, not height!), which is 3(x6) studs for clearance and 5(x6) studs for the base = 8(x6) studs. The picture below shows two MicroScouts on the bridge operating the two switch points on the right. There are light fibers plugged into the MicroScout’s light sensors; these do transmit the VLL code generated by a Scout PBrick (not visible) to control them. MicroScouts operating as “intelligent motors” for switch drives are fun. The “forward/reverse” “switch” is somewhat unique: When the MicroScout is put into “P” mode it pays careful attention to its built-in light sensor. In this mode, the MicroScout understands some VLL (LEGO’s Visible Light Link protocol) commands such as “motor on forward” etc. In other words you can operate the switch using optical signals from a VLL source. The rendering below shows a Scout controller operating 4 MicroScout switch drives. This version of a switch drive has the smallest depth I could come up with to securely operate unmodified switch points: I used that one on my layout here: Here is the link to the LDraw file. In the mean time I have slightly modified the “RailBricks #9 challenge” drive (a number of ingenious train experts have contributed to this one – see the "Challenge reveal" article by Benn Coifman in RailBricks #12, page 37) and reduced the size to 5-wide at the base. This drive never falls apart, regardless how much torque is exerted on the driving axle. The design is simply amazing! I have retrofitted almost all of my switch points with this version. When a MicroScout is operating the drive, it should be oriented such that you can easily get access to the buttons (on/off, select, run). There are several drive versions to attach the MicroScout in such way that is does not interfere with the required clearance on the point and good access to the buttons. Here are some real world examples: This folder contains all LDraw files Best regards, Thorsten
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Hi all, I recently picked up an old bundle of 9v stuff and I'm a bit stuck with son power issues and hope someone can help. I'm a 12v guy so I'm a bit lost! ?. The transformer seems to work. I can't get any power to the track. If I connect a cable from the transformer to the motor directly it works fine (or seems to anyway). When I connect the track connector cable to the track it just won't work. I've tried cleaning the track etc. Also, if I leave the normal 9v cable connected to the motor and then place it on the track with the track connector attached it cuts the power to the motor. Does that make sense to anyone? Haha. Hope someone can help as I'm baffled. Cheers!
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Hi everyone. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with taking a 9v battery plug and joining it with a PF wire. Just like this MiniZip. Any suggestions, tutorials, or discussion is much appreciated. Thanks.
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9V motor issues - replace or convert to Power Functions?
Tannerman posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
Long time reader, first time poster. So back in 2002 I picked up 4535 LEGO Express Deluxe to run around our Christmas tree. It features a 10205 My Own Train engine and tender with 9V motor and light package. I typically only run it around the holidays (after cleaning all the track, etc), but over the past few years I've been having issues with the motor. This year I'm noticing that it just runs for awhile... and then stops, almost as if its overheating or something. If I wait a while (5-10 minutes), the motor seems to work once again. My gut is that the motor is giving out on me finally, but wanted to confirm with those in the know. That said, if my 9V motor is failing, I'm looking at affordable next steps -- and also trying to keep a 4-year-old boy pretty happy. Do I suck up secondary market prices and buy another 9V motor or do I make the jump to Power Functions? If the latter, then I don't know really where to start regarding what I'd need to purchase from BrickLink, etc. Any help or advice would be appreciated (Also, if anyone has successfully converted this engine/tender combo to PF, I'm all ears). Thanks in advance! - Steve -
A little history: I was about to pull the trigger on the altBricks track. I literally had the content uploaded to Kick Starter but needed to tie up some loose ends before posting and then, BAM, the ME KS project was public. But alas still no metal track... I considered releasing the altBricks version at the same time but worried that the ME KS project already tapped the funds of the LEGO train enthusiasts. I figured out a way to make metal and plastic track relatively simple in one mold for all 4 curves (or 3 curves and 1 straight). It's a one piece track sections (like LEGO track) that is 100% connector compatible to LEGO track. The beauty of the altBricks system is that one simple machining process on industry standard HO nickle silver rail satisfies any radius curve or straight length. I made prototypes, a half dozen of these straight tracks and a 1/4 circle R88 (I think 8 segments) using ME rails and they all work fantastically. I would continue to do this for my whole home layout but its a big pain in the butt to retro-fit plastic rails and you tend to mess up 1 out of 6 times destroying the plastic track. The question now is do I make this process public domain? If so, I hope that if someone runs with the idea they pay me 3 full circles of each radius and some straights as royalty :-) Or should I do a Kick Starter project and have altBricks do this? A better idea is if the ME guys would agree to talk with me, they are the most logical company to do this and this solution can work in their system too. And my royalty seems pretty reasonable. :-) Your thoughts? Thanks, SteveB altBricks
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I've recently picked up the 12v controller and a signal set, and intend to pick up some lamps too. I really like both the look and the way they are controlled. I also love the way it's all controlled from one central control unit. So here's my question: Has anybody either modified the innards of the 12v controller to drive 9v or modified 12v motors and controller to rail wires to run without the central rails? I'm keeping my mind pretty open at the moment, just looking for ideas that (with the minimum of modifying aging mechanisms) that would allow me to use any part of the 12v system on a more modernly powered layout. Worst case scenario, I'll just use the controller as a signalbox and nothing more, it's still pretty cool. :)
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hi all I have tried two time to get a dead micro motor back to life and so far I have been able to get them working but then I try do get rid of the magnetic powder and that kills the motor when I try to put power through it. has anyone been able to successfully get them working again without having to take them apart again? if so can you tell me how you did it? thanks 9v system -
This is a tutorial detailing how to modify a LEGO 9V train motor so that it may be powered independently of the track. This effort is part of a larger project inspired by Thorsten Benter’s article in Railbricks Issue 7 titled “PF and 9V Trains: The Best of Both Worlds”. Step 1) Open the 9V motor. This has been covered elsewhere, so it should suffice to say you carefully remove the 12 tabs holding the bottom cover on with an xacto blade or something similar. There is enough friction to hold the bottom cover in place later even without the tabs. Step 2) Remove all internal parts. Ignore the fact that I took this photo after completing step 3. Step 3) Use a rotary tool with a cutoff disk to bisect the metal strips in the top of the motor enclosure. These strips are exposed in the top studs, and we will later use them to pull power from the track and apply power to the motor. Very important: Be sure to apply NO PRESSURE when using the rotary tool. Instead, just lightly touch the spinning cutoff disk against the metal strip, and let the tool do the work. It will take some time, so be patient and careful. If you apply pressure, the metal strips will heat up and deform the plastic. If the plastic deforms, it will be impossible to interface with LEGO bricks and PCB adapters (like the one in the upper-right corner of the picture). Keep it light and easy. You will thank yourself later when you haven’t ruined your motor’s plastic housing. Step 4) Desolder the metal pieces from the electric motor. I don’t have a picture of this exact step because I used the electric motor from a Power Functions train motor. If replacing the 9V motor with a Power Functions motor, open up the PF train motor using a T6 bit, remove the electric motor, and desolder it from the wires. Step 5) Solder a short length of wire to each tab on the electric motor (do this outside the housing to avoid accidently melting it). I used 32 gauge DCC decoder wire, but you can use whatever you have that will fit inside the motor. Reassemble the motor with exception of the wheels and the bottom cover. Step 6) Attach the wires to the outermost halves of the metal strips; the innermost halves are connected to the wheels through the wipers. I used a silver epoxy for this. I chose silver epoxy for two reasons: 1) I didn’t want to risk melting the studs by soldering the wires to the metal strips, and 2) silver epoxy has a lower resistance than graphite epoxy. Step 7) Reinstall the wheels and make sure everything is running smoothly. This would also be a good time to lubricate the gears if you want to. Make sure you don’t get any lubricant on the electrical parts! Press the bottom cover onto what remains of the tabs, and you’re done! If you ever want to run the motor directly from track power, simply use a PCB adapter with a loopback connector or connect a LEGO wire (9V or light gray end of PF). This is what a PCB adapter looks like when installed on the motor. (I’ve updated the design since taking the previous photo.) And here is a connector leading up to the electronics (currently just a Power Functions battery box, soon to include a Bluetooth receiver) in my Horizon Express. The connector plugs into the PCB adapter. The PCB adapter is attached to the electrical studs on the motor. And the motor is pinned to the bottom plate of the locomotive. Now I can charge the battery in my train without taking it off the track, run it indefinitely on a mixed metal and plastic layout, and have non-line-of-sight control when I add the Bluetooth receiver. It really is the best of both worlds!
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Hello there! Recently I have taken my time to wash and sort my old inventory of Lego pieces. Parts from way back in the 70s (which were donated to me when I was about 5), parts and complete sets from my childhood (including the wonderful Set 740) up to my last Lego Technic Set (8868). After that last technic set, my Dark Age set in and lasted until 2016, nearly 23 years... and I just came out of my Dark Ages because of my little son, as I am preparing to get a hold of the old sets (hopefully complete) to give them to him as presents over the next years. Well, it didn't take long to completely draw me into the fascination of building with Lego again. When I gathered the pieces to put together my Metro Liner (4558) and, after a sleepless night, I had my Railroad Crossing (4539) complete as well, I suddenly ended up buying some extra tracks, points and even a crossing. Some of that extra track came with two very, very incomplete sets: No 1, the Load and Haul Railroad (4563) and No 2. Freight and Crane Railway (4565). Basically, there is no single engine or rolling stock anywhere near complete. 20% of the pieces are existant at best. At the moment I am trying to restore those as possible with my limited inventory. So, that's how I ended up here, searching for clever tips and tricks to somehow finish those two sets with my limited amount of bricks and trying to get some insight to what is new on the topic of Lego trains. And maybe build some MOCs too, while I'm at it Thanks for reading and have a good time building, Capparezza
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Hi, I have probably a 20-25 year old motor that only on the straights jitters/loses connections and looks to be slightly bouncing. The track is clean because other motors work flawlessly on it. I am wondering if I need to take it apart or if something could be warped. I'd rather not have to buy another $50-$80 motor for my metroliner if I don't have to. Thanks -RailCo
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The idea for this work has come from the LDD model posted by the member Mudoch17 here: http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=119791 The main rail car is built on a 9v motor using a 4,5v loco base and the wagon is built on a regular 16x6 plate. So, event they look similar, they were built in different ways. More pictures could be seen here: https://www.flickr.c...157667833314506 LEGO Tram 05 by Severus A, on Flickr LEGO Tram 04 by Severus A, on Flickr LEGO tram 03 by Severus A, on Flickr
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Dear All, From the MTRkustoms train Factory i have the pleasure to announce my latest MOC, After some Spanish Train MOCs I wanted to make a Steam Locomotive, and I Started with the biggest and more powerful Spanish Steam, the “Santa Fe” 151 (French/Spanish) 2-10-2 (Whyte) This locomotive was able to pull a 450 tons train at 30km/h and a slope of 20mils The most difficult challenge was create a MOC that can run in R104 Blastemtrack, and R40 curves. To get the power I use a 9v dummy motor to pick up energy and 2 L PF Motors inside the boiler attached to the 9v pickup, is not a fast MOC, but is a very powerful Locomotive DIMENSIONS Locomotive length: 45 studs Tender length: 25 studs Total length: 70 studs Height: 9 bricks 7 wide Details To be a complete MOC I made some type of cars, 1 Closed boxcar, 5 open coal cars, and one caboose car. Details These 2 axle wagons have a flex hose coupling to be connected and allow Little turn of the axles. Also the coal wagons have an aperture system for the next project. All the pictures in Flickr Album And a little Video: Enjoy it
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29.09.2023 - new locomotives Hello there and thank you for stopping by! Since posting last time i mocced up 3 more locomotives. They have been kept in the same "9V era plus style" i usually build in. The first new addition is a EMD GP "High Nose" Locomotive. It is based loosely on GP7 and GP9 Locomotives and is build in a CN Paint scheme to not look out of place when it runs together with the 10133 BNSF Loco. Speaking of 10133, the lower part and the longer hood-roof is heavily based on this set. EMD GP Highnose CN by Henrik S, auf Flickr EMD GP Highnose CN by Henrik S, auf Flickr EMD GP Highnose CN by Henrik S, auf Flickr EMD GP Highnose CN by Henrik S, auf Flickr Next we have a EMD Switcher Locomotive. Again, it resembles no particular prototype, it is basically an attempt to capture the general vibe of this type of locomotive in a 6 wide format. EMD SW Switcher Locomotive by Henrik S, auf Flickr EMD SW Switcher Locomotive by Henrik S, auf Flickr EMD SW Switcher Locomotive by Henrik S, auf Flickr EMD SW Switcher Locomotive by Henrik S, auf Flickr EMD SW Switcher Locomotive by Henrik S, auf Flickr The 3rd Locomotive is a european one, it is loosely based on the swiss Bernina Crocodile. Most of the parts used to build this locomotive come from set 10277 ( which was killed to create this 6 wide, 9V powered baby crocodile ). Bernina Krokodil (10277 Alternative) by Henrik S, auf Flickr Bernina Krokodil (10277 Alternative) by Henrik S, auf Flickr Bernina Krokodil (10277 Alternative) by Henrik S, auf Flickr Hope you enjoy, comments and constructive criticism are always welcome! _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ It´s been a long time since i last posted in this thread . Some pictures on flickr were lost since then, some mocs got updated, some got dismembered to loot pieces for other projects. So i decided to revive this thread, and to show you some of my Mocs, mods and stuff i´ve been tinkering with since then. The Introduction of the 9V tracks from fxbricks in bigger radiuses triggered me to dust of my beloved 9v sets and to get into the rabbithole of lego trains again. I always had a soft spot for the 9V system, the sound of the metal rails.. It is a fondly remembered part of my childhood, many happy hours were spent playing with it . My models are obviously not exactly to scale. Some are not even prototypical. My goal has been to build something which resembles sets of the 9v era, including the wide range of new parts introduced since then. Another goal is playability. If possible I try to incorporate many play features (minifig seatings, working doors and mechanisms, cockpits and interiors, etc.). Locos: 4551 - crocodile I do not own this set, but i always liked the look of it. My adaptation of the crocodile has been color switched, from the ÖBB red to the german green color sheme. The „beaks“ of the original set were prone to derail. They have been changed to avoid this problem and have been shortened to look more prototypical. Other changes include the addition of 2 windows in the main section and a different roof. Lego 4551 Crocodile - modded by Henrik S, auf Flickr Lego 4551 Crocodile - modded by Henrik S, auf Flickr Lego 4551 Crocodile - modded by Henrik S, auf Flickr 4564 - 3 axle Shunting diesel Almost completly different from the original 4 axled locomotive found in Set 4564, i rebuild this loco to a 3 axle configuration. I always liked small shunting diesels like the german v60 or the vossloh G6, so the design of the superstructure resembles them. Lego 4564 - Modded by Henrik S, auf Flickr Lego 4564 - Modded by Henrik S, auf Flickr Lego 4564 - Modded by Henrik S, auf Flickr MOC – 4 axle modern diesel shunter A 4 axled diesel shunter with guardrails for operating safety. Loosely based on Vossloh and other very rectangular modern designs. Modern Diesel Shunter by Henrik S, auf Flickr Modern Diesel Shunter by Henrik S, auf Flickr Modern Diesel Shunter by Henrik S, auf Flickr Modern Diesel Shunter by Henrik S, auf Flickr DB BR 111 – electric locomotive An electric locomotive for passenger train services, heavily based on the german Baureihe 111. Build in the striking ocean blue – tan color sheme the DB used quite some time ago. BR 111 by Henrik S, auf Flickr BR 111 by Henrik S, auf Flickr BR 111 by Henrik S, auf Flickr Here it is with 4 passenger coaches. BR 111 with Passenger Train by Henrik S, auf Flickr The dining car, with pantograph to power the kitchen. Dining Car by Henrik S, auf Flickr Dining Car by Henrik S, auf Flickr 10183 - Modern electric locomotive This engine is loosely based on modern TRAXX locos. The base for this loco lies in a B Variant of set 10183 – Hobby train. After building the B model i kept tinkering with it, and over time it evolved into something resembling a modern TRAXX Locomotive. I actually have this loco 2-times: One in a red color sheme like DB uses, 10183 - Hobby Train Mod by Henrik S, auf Flickr and one in a black color sheme based on MRCE (leasing service for locomotives in Europe) Lego Hobby Train B Version (V2) by Henrik S, auf Flickr Lego Hobby Train B Version (V2) by Henrik S, auf Flickr Lego Hobby Train B Version (V2) by Henrik S, auf Flickr 7938 - Commuter train A lot has been changed. The middle waggon was removed and the remaining two parts are now connected with a jacobs boogie. The pantographs were removed, as the prototype for my version is powered by diesel. Another noteworthy change is the addition of implied doors. 7938 Mod by Henrik S, auf Flickr 7938 Mod by Henrik S, auf Flickr 7938 Mod - Cockpit by Henrik S, auf Flickr 7938 Mod - interior by Henrik S, auf Flickr Rolling stock: Container car; 2 and 4 axle versions It is build to carry the classic 4 wide containers common in the 9v era. The 4 wide containers look a bit small sizewise, but i like the versatility they offer. They can be transported by the classic 4 wide lego trucks, they can be grabbed by the Container Stacker. So in short, the playability outweighed the scale here. Container Cars by Henrik S, auf Flickr Container Car by Henrik S, auf Flickr Container Car by Henrik S, auf Flickr Container Car by Henrik S, auf Flickr Tank car A 4 axled tank car. The tank can be build in a variety of colors. The solution for the fairly round tank is not by me. I think i have seen the design somewhere here on eurobricks, but i don´t know by whom unfortunatly. So, if you read this and this is your design, please let me know and i will add your name for this technique! The original Design is by Phoxtane, check his tank car here: Tank Cars by Henrik S, auf Flickr Tank Car by Henrik S, auf Flickr 4537 – Twin Tank Car I fondly remember this waggon from my childhood. The original set rocked the classic white-green-red octan colors. On my quest to achieve a round and 6 wide design, this iconic color sheme unfortunatly had to go. Now it is dark bluish gray, which i think is a pretty common color for this type of freight car, so it is okay with me. Twin Tank Car by Henrik S, auf Flickr Twin Tank Car by Henrik S, auf Flickr EAOS - gondola car A car which can be seen countless times here in europe. There is not much to say about this car really, i tried to keep the weight down and the model features working doors. EAOS Gondola car by Henrik S, auf Flickr EAOS Gondola car by Henrik S, auf Flickr Small Box Car A classic of the 9V Waggons, in my oppinion it holds up nicely even today. The only change to it has been the addition of a curved roof, which in my oppinion looks pretty nice. Small Box Cars by Henrik S, auf Flickr Buildings and other stuff: 4554 – Trainstation Another classic 9V set (which i got for christmas in the 90s). I did not change much. Mainly the switch to a tan paint job and the interior of the station are different. The Rest is largely unchanged. 4554 Trainstation by Henrik S, auf Flickr 4554 Trainstation by Henrik S, auf Flickr 4554 Trainstation by Henrik S, auf Flickr 4554 Trainstation by Henrik S, auf Flickr 4554 Trainstation by Henrik S, auf Flickr 4554 Trainstation by Henrik S, auf Flickr 4555 – Cargo station Much like set 4554, not much was changed. I used the modern profile / masonry bricks to get a bit more detail into the building. The interior was tiled and the sparse furnishings were a bit extended. This set is part of the reason why i kept the 4 wide containers. I really like the old grippers in this set, which are also used on the container stacker set. 4555 Cargo Station by Henrik S, auf Flickr 4555 Cargo Station by Henrik S, auf Flickr 4555 Cargo Station by Henrik S, auf Flickr 4555 Cargo Station by Henrik S, auf Flickr Dockside crane Like the old harbour sets of the Lego town days, the base for my dockside is made of the elevated baseplates. The crane works and is able to unload the cargo from boat into freight cars (or into cargo trucks). Dockside Carne by Henrik S, auf Flickr Dockside Carne by Henrik S, auf Flickr So, thats all for now. I plan to update this thread kinda regularly, and to upload more content in the near future. Please let me know your opionions, critics and suggestions. I hope you have fun looking through these pictures!
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I bought a set from bricklink a while ago and tested out the electronics, only to find that they were acting really strange. I'll try to explain it is as clear as possible but i may mess up a bit. So the set came with 4 motors, one of each kind, XL, L, M and Servo, and these all work perfectly fine on my own battery packs and recievers. But now i hook them up to the included recievers, so XL on red, L on blue, but then only the XL motor works. Now i'll switch them arround, but yet again it's only the XL motor that works, but now on the red channel. The L motor does function correctly when hooked up to a different reciever or straight to a battery pack. Further testing shows the XL motor works on all my recievers, both red and blue channels. The L motor works on 2 out of 4 recievers but only on either red or blu side, not both sides on the same reciever The Servo motor worked on none. And the M motor worked on 3 out of 4, also on just one side per reciever, either red or blue. And again all the motors work directly on the battery pack, or when hooked up to known good reciever. So what's going on here? How does one motor work on a reciever, but another does not? Can i throw away the motors or are the recievers at fault here? It's really frustrating because i am in the midst of making a deal with the seller aswell, but i can't without knowing exactly what's broken. It's like the recievers are picky in which motors they want to actuate and which ones not, but how's that even possible?
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