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Showing results for tags 'Crawler'.
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Hello. I am relatively new to LEGO and very new to Technic. I am particularly interested in the challenges presented by building rock crawlers. My first build was JJ2's 4x4 Super Cralwer V1, which was very rewarding. SevenStuds then kindly directed me to Yoraish's Little Boy Rock Crawler as an instructive build, which it certainly has been. Having just completed it, I have a number of questions that I have not been able to satisfactorily work out for myself and am hoping to benefit from community wisdom. (I am using a rechargeable battery and a V2 IR receiver, along with the original 2 XL motors for driving and the M motor for steering. I am also using very cheap tyres that approximate Pro-Line Flat Iron 1.9" tyres as a test before forking out for the real ones.) I understand, I think, that you might choose to use a M motor (or a L motor?) for steering if (a) you don't have a Servo motor, or (b) have space constraints and/or (c.) require greater torque. Are there any other circumstances where you would use a M or L motor for steering over a Servo motor? I tried using a Servo motor instead of the M motor and it does not turn the wheels at all, although it attempts to. I assume that this means that it does not have enough torque? In Sariel's book, he mentions that the Servo motor has "huge torque" and so "won't be easily stalled" (p. 169). The M motor, however, easily turns the wheels. Does this mean that the M motor has significantly more torque than the Servo motor (Sariel's book doesn't appear to give the torque for the Servo motor, or if it does I missed it) If so, are there any circumstances where you would/could use a Servo motor for steering a crawler and how would you decide this other than trial and error? Yoraish's has the Little Boy doing some pretty extreme crawling (at least it seems so to me) with little difficulty. I find it difficult to tackle a pillow in my lounge without it sounding like something is going to break while steering and have, in fact, managed to pop a wheel off (I experienced the same difficulties with the Super Crawler, which JJ2 kindly helped me to address). I gather that the M motor just keeps turning until you stop (but that unlike the Servo motor does not return to centre when released); this sounds distressing and seems like it could cause actual damage. Is there any way to overcome this? I ask because I and my son - 2 and 1/2 - find it difficult to concentrate on negotiating obstacles due to concerns about damaging something and/or bits popping off. Perhaps it requires greater skill than I/we have at steering? Sorry if I have not asked this particular question well. Many thanks, Darryl and Reuben P.S. I think/hope I have done the images correctly. P.P.S. Any other recommendations for refining this build would also be appreciated (DLuders was very helpful in devloping the initial thread - many thanks). -
I present to you my Lego Technic Chilli Crawler! This is a complete makeover and overall improvement from my previous Carrot Crawler: http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=112037 Yes, I know. This is the second crawler that I named after a vegetable; expect more! Features: - Triangulated 4-link live axle suspension using 4 soft, black shocks. - 4x4 with one PF XL motor mounted parallel* to each of the two axles. A final gear ratio of 1:5.001, yes this may seem slow, but the enormous Super Swamper tires make up for it. - Speaking of that, 4 RC4WD Super Swamper tires. No, they are not Lego, I got them from a nearby hobby shop. - One L-motor for steering in the front axle, geared down via worm gear to 8 tooth gear, then a 12 tooth gear to a 40 tooth gear. The 40 tooth gear drives another 12 tooth gear that moves a 13L gear rack. - Portal hubs for all four wheels. Standard Lego Unimog for the rear axle for rigidity; custom triangular plate portal hubs on front axle for a steering pivot point closer to the center of the tire. - Good articulation, about ~55-60 degrees. - Controlled with an SBrick. - Powered by a Lego rechargeable LiPo battery. - Green Chilli Stem** * The mounting of the drive motors parallel to the axles was a must for this crawler. By doing so, I have not only eliminated gear slippage as there are no perpendicular gears, but there is also a ton more ground clearance in both the front and rear axle. The rear axle especially as the motor is actually on TOP of the axle. Crazy, huh? ** Makes the crawler look so much cooler. Challenges: - As with all 4-link suspension setups, the mounting and placement of both the links and the shock absorbers proved to be a rather annoying, tedious part of the process. I have, however, managed to make a VERY rigid triangulated setup where the shocks are not bent or warped in any way. - The mounting of the two lower links on the front axle was also difficult as there was virtually nowhere I could mount these links onto. I was able to (somehow) securely mount both the lower links and the shocks of the front axle onto 7L and 9L beams on either side of the motor. - Mounting the motors parallel to the axles proved to be hard, but actually somewhat straightforward when it came to the rear axle. I had been so used to having drive axles perpendicular to the axle like on my previous crawler. The mounting of the front drive motor was difficult in the fact that its power is transmitted through various gears and the motor itself is connected to the axle by two plate beams and a pin or two. Although the front drive motor is still not completely rigid, I have had no problems with gear slippage whatsoever in either axle. Some pictures: And finally, here is the youtube video: I welcome any suggestions or comments you may have. I will, however, say in advance that I DO NOT plan on making a body for this crawler as I designed it for performance purposes mostly, a Lego "comp-crawler" as you may call it. Thanks, pt -
Hy i'm back with another crawler saidly i'm not that good at making good astetics, lukkely functionallity is much better. here some pics DSC_0064 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr DSC_0065 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr DSC_0067 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr at first i wanted to make a crawler with positive caster but it was the worst steering i had ever seen so i remade the axles so they are now negative. the front and rear axle are identical. What i wanted to make was a crawler with good power and steering which is achieved. now i have to make a body around it. ideas are welcome. TNLD -
Here is my entry into the contest a tracked dumper with crane. Based off a Morooka/Terramac style crawler carrier platform. Planned Features - Pneumatic Dump Bed - Pneumatic Crane - Detailed Track System - Detailed Cab/Engine Compartment - Pneumatic Pump driven by M-Motor Build Progress Here are some photos of the undercarriage: The dump platform is based off the MB Arocs, but will be further modded to fit this build. Here is a mock up of the crane, based off MB Arocs/effermanns modded design. This will be changed almost completely since it is too large. The crane and dump section need to be redone since they copy an already built design. I just wanted to see how scale and function would work on the tracks. The track design took me a while to figure out since this is my first creation in Technic. I want it to be somewhat modular to help with installing Pneumatics. More to come... -
Hello, Several month's ago, Ive created this crawler drill, but haven't post it on Eurobricks until now The crawler is an heavy machine with masive drill power to deal with the roughest terrain. Two chrome drills, two mining lasers and a radar are the equipment for this vehicle to research the dangerous dark caves. Information about the crawler: The crawler is motorized by two Power Functions M motors The drills rotate when driving Two working lights on front side Removable battery box for easy replacement of the batteries Pictures: Crawler Drill by LegoMathijs, on Flickr Drills and lights. Drills working when moving the vehicle by LegoMathijs, on Flickr Crawler Drill by LegoMathijs, on Flickr Easy assembling battery box by LegoMathijs, on Flickr Chassis by LegoMathijs, on Flickr More pictures on Flickr: https://www.flickr.c...157636283392954 Hope you like it -
My newest project is inspired by the American King of the Hammers style of off road racing. It is not strictly crawling and is also not strictly desert racing a la the Baja 1000. The vehicles need to be dual purpose. They need to crawl over some pretty unpleasant obstacles and also go all out on open terrain. You can even overtake other competitors during the race. I think this style of Lego vehicle can combine all that has been learned about trial truck and crawlers and combine them. I was most inspired by the appearance of the vehicle at the 1:40 mark in the following video. My KOH truck has the following -2 RC buggy motors -2 V2 IR receivers -2 LiPo rechargeable batteries -2 speed transmission from Sariel http://sariel.pl/201...utput-selector/ -Front and Rear Differential Locks from Sariel http://sariel.pl/201...ferential-lock/ -Auto valve inspired from TechnicBricks w/ onboard compressor -RC4WD Rock Crusher H/T 1.9 tires -Triangulated four links front and rear -telescoping drive shafts -9:1 axles -PF Med steering 5:1 with 8t on rack and Ackerman geometry I am currently mulling over Sariel's newer servo actuated three speed transmission. Initial tests showed that two RC Buggy motors had no trouble back driving the servo and so now I need to figure out how to overcome this shortcoming. The two speeds in the current transmission are not that far apart and with its weight the low gear was not low enough on some obstacles. These problems ought to be corrected by the update to a three speed, but it will take some more work to get there. I tried this transmission http://sariel.pl/201...linear-gearbox/ but the space between low and high was too great without a middle gear to bridge the spread. I am not sold on the benefit versus cost analysis of the locking axles as opposed to axles that contain a spool. I ended up compromising myself and breaking a cardinal rule of not altering parts. The front axle has a 2.5 stud axle and a 3.5 stud axle in it to achieve the track width I wanted. This could be alleviated if I had gone to a 2 stud wider front axle, but I didn't want to change the proportions that much. I don't have many other relevant pictures yet, but I will provide what people ask for. Comments, Questions, Concerns, or any advice is greatly appreciated. v/r Andy -
You may have seen the detailed reviews of the upcoming 41999 4x4 Crawler Exclusive Edition Set. Written by rm8, Masked Builder, and Conchas), these reviews may have convinced you whether or not to buy one or more 41999s when available on Shop.Lego.com in August 2013. Only 20,000 have been made. This is a private poll -- your answers cannot be identified as being from you. Please reply in an honest, truthful manner; you can come back later and change your answers if you wish. Thank you. -
Hey everyone, I have finally finished the crawler. It took me awhile and a lot of versions till I liked something. So lets get right into it. Features: 1 XL motor for drive 2 Servo motors for steering 2 IR Receivers LED lights 2 Speed gearbox with M motor for remote changing 1 Lego Lipo battery Images: I took some ideas from Madoca1977 and Nico71(which are some great builders) I hope you guys and gals enjoy!
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I got through the first two thirds of building, and I tested the drivetrain. The wheels are turning in opposite directions from each other, so the vehicle can't drive. I've tried flipping ad switching the motors and cables, but I can't find the problem. Any ideas? -
Dear Eurobrickmembers, I made a new MOC, the Quad Crawler. It's my first own-made crawler, so I haven't got much building experience with design/building crawlers. I build this MOC because I want to prepare me for the Belgian Outdoor TruckTrail this summer. I wanted to learn some building techniques and receive driving experience. In this moc I use 2XL-motors for propulsion (gear ratio 1:1), and 1 M-motor (gear ratio 1:0.2) for steering. It also has the V2 receiver. The Batterybox lies very low (but the ground clearance is still good), so the model won't capsize fast. The suspension works very well, as you can see on this photo: I was afraid it won't perform good, because I used differentials. Still, it performs much better than I thought (indoor and outdoor) I made a nice video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmdHidAWGzs More photo's (when folder is made public): http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=523374 I'll upload LDD instructions soon! I'd like your opinion and advice. Greets, Fresko
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I just wanted to compare the price in shop.lego.com for different regions. Poland: 799 PLN ~= 250 USD ~= 188.45 EUR
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Here is my video review for the 41999 Technic Crawler. This is only my second video review so it probably isn't the best. Enjoy! -
Hi Everyone! Here's the outdoor test I "finally" recorded today after a long wait. Very happy with the results, performance was amazing especially on slippery rocks at 6.30am! Enjoy the action! ( Kookaburra sings during one run, and I pause for it, if you have never heard one before listen out for it) :D Based on Tim Cameron's Showtime -
LDD FILE NOW RELEASED WITH PART LIST Hopefully LEGO won't sue me for this, but now if there's a Technic fan crazy enough out there, they can have a shot at building this! LDD couldn't generate a building guide for this on my laptop but anyone is free to try to generate one. This topic is now out of date! For information regarding the all new Enforcer Recharged CUUSOO entry, visit this topic! Originally, this was an entry for the 'You Design It, We Make It' competition but it ended up in second place to the Boss. The design was based on the idea of making a body design for the 9398 chassis that looked fuller and more robust than the original. I therefor chose the legendary Hummer H2 to be my inspiration which is shown in the images below: I could not exactly replicate the Hummer design due to copyright reasons. The design I eventually came up with after weeks of hard work is shown below: The body includes a manually operated winch which could easily be motorized, opening doors and tailgate, and the battery is changed in exactly the same way as the original body design. There is also a rear roof section which can be removed to give the choice between full bodied or pickup style forms. Because the Hummer has such a bulky design, I had to be careful to build lots of the body around the wheels to reduce the height and not just stick the body right on top of the 9398 chassis. Even though this is a virtual model, it is obvious that this will greatly optimize stability, not just by lowering the height, but by having much of the weight (around the doors) far lower than in other designs. I would also like to point out that the main purpose of this model is not to be able to crawl over very steep obstacles, but rather present a great building challenge and an imposing appearence while still being able to drive over everyday mildly rough terrain. Just days before the top 10 finalists were announced, I decided that this design would look brilliant in a police theme as there are many good examples of Hummers that have been adapted into police themed vehicles: The final result of my work was this, the Highway Enforcer: This design has exactly the same functions as the original but has a totally overhauled colour scheme and new accessories such as the police lighting and rear radio antennas. The new version was so successful that it was picked for the top 10 finalists over the original entry. Below are some images showing the LDD model in more detail: The first image shows the ground clearance and height of the body as well as showing the space above the wheels left for suspension travel. The second image shows the space under the beam structure used to maintain rigidity when hinging the bodywork to change the battery. It is also possible to make out some of the gearing for the winch. The third image shows some of the interior. There are only 3 seats because I could not fit 4 in due to the hinge mechanism positioning for the battery changing. I think that actually only 2 are needed as this would reduce weight and parts. The fourth image shows the door lock and hinge. The hinge actually contains 2 smaller hinges so that the door does not get stuck on the frame while opening and closing. The lock consists of the grey rotating part on the end of the door which slots in behind the door pillar when the handle is turned. The reason that this had to be a digital design is because I don't have anywhere near the number of parts to needed to build anything like a 4 x4 crawler real life. I played with LEGO all the time when I was a child but now I am at University and this is the only chance to do something amazing with LEGO that I have had since then. -
Hy guy's Here I'm presenting my first Crawler MOC DSC_0001 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr This time I wanted to go with as less fuctions as possible and an as low center of mass but as much groundclearance as possible. I know those last two don't go together so i have put the battery box under the steering motor. The functions that it now has are: - 4X4 drive (as the name sujest)(XL motors) - front wheel steering (M motor geared 1 to 27) - lights It also has: -extra long suspension (groud clearance from 12.5 studs to 5 studs) - Roof Rack - door to reach the battery box (AA batteries) - easely removable cabin weight: 1.45KG wheelbase: 30 studs - 42 studs height: 32.5 - 25 studs with roofrack and 30.5 - 23 without roofrack widht: body 13 studs axle (without wheels)20 studs The reason why it is still a MOC is that it needs an interior but I'm not good with that so maybe someone of you guys wants to help me. it has to be 16X11X9 DSC_0002 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr DSC_0003 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr DSC_0011 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr DSC_0010 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr here you can see the battery box is under the steering motor Now the suspension setup DSC_0008 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr 12.5 studs DSC_0009 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr 5 studs the roofrack and lights DSC_0013 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr DSC_0014 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr thanks
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A long, long time ago, back when the [MINI] Technic contest was being run, I decided to build an entry, which would have been a replica of the Lampson International LTL-2600 crane, which was, for a time, the largest mobile crane in the world. My model was actually more inspired by it, and is not a straightforward replica. The primary reason why I did not enter this was due to the fact that, at least according to LDD, I had 230 pieces in it, even though I myself counted only 200. This model also had some major construction flaws, which will be detailed later. This thing's been sitting around forever, and I just want to post it so that I can take it apart. So, without further ado, here it is. Lego Lampson LTL-2600 by Saberwing007, on Flickr Eagle eyed viewers may note that it is not blue, but red. Well, the truss pieces are only available in black, gray, and red, and I only had them in red, so that dictated the color scheme. I guess that would make it more like a Manitowoc crane, but I digress. The crane features, like the real thing, luffing of the main boom, hoist, 2 independent crawler units, 3 cabs, and a large counter weight. My model also has a feature that I don't think the real crane has, but many similar ones do, and that is adjustable radius, which will be shown below. Front Cabs by Saberwing007, on Flickr Rear Cabs by Saberwing007, on Flickr My model, as mentioned above, has 3 cabs, 2 for driving, and one for the crane operations. Even though this thing would be very slow, maybe topping out at 2 miles per hour, having two people driving could be an absolute nightmare. There's probably a good reason for this configuration, but I cannot think of it. The pictures show how the radius can be adjusted, although the real crane can not do this. Minimum Radius by Saberwing007, on Flickr Maximum Radius by Saberwing007, on Flickr The last two pictures show how the winces are configured, and how far down the crane can luff. Winches by Saberwing007, on Flickr Maximum Reach by Saberwing007, on Flickr Finally, the major structural flaw I alluded to earlier: Some connection in the turntables is not that sturdy, so the crane lists pathetically to one side or the other. Leaning by Saberwing007, on Flickr As a last thing, here is an LDD render of what this machine would look like in blue, if the parts existed. Ltl2600blue by Saberwing007, on Flickr And finally, the LXF file: Link -
I am getting close to the end of this long term build and it's time to share some pictures and a bit of the story. Even before I had finished putting together 10231, I decided I wanted a Crawler to go with it. Being a Technic fan it had to at least drive around and lift the launch platform and shuttle. Those two basic goals spawned a project that has lasted a little over 2 years so far. Some ideas have stuck around since their inception, others were a bit optimistic (like building a peristaltic pump and hoping I could find a way to control the pneumatics hydraulically). February this year marked the 50th anniversary of when the two crawlers went into service, so recently there has been extra motivation to finish. The base equipment; - 16x M-motors (drive) - 4x L-motors (pneumatic jacking and leveling) - 4x IR Receivers (V1 as the V2s do not like driving multiple m-motors on a single channel) - 4x NXT servo motors (steering) - 4x RCX rotation sensors (measuring jacking level between truck and chassis) - 2x NXT bricks (one master and one slave. The master communicates with the Android Tablet and coordinates itself with the slave. Programmed in LeJOS) - 1x PF IR-Link sensor (link between master NXT and all PF motors) - 2x PF Battery boxes (with thermal overload removed) - 1x Android Tablet Future add-ons - Accelerometer (automatically detect the crawler is on a gradient and adjust the leveling to suit) Bricksafe folder is here: http://www.bricksafe.com/pages/OzShan/Crawler Firstly, a couple of my favorite reference pictures; The build itself started with the trucks, thinking that the pneumatics and LAs would dictate the scale. First proof of concept - build a coupling to give height, pitch, roll and yaw to the truck. The pneumatics need to be on their own gimbals too. The reinforced 2x2 rounds slide and rotate in the 4x4 macaroni's. It is on the limit of what will hold together without glue, but it does hold. The two 1x2 technic bricks at the base of the 2x2 column are helped a little by a string (not pictured) which runs up through the 2x2 rounds with the axle. Initial prototype of the drivetrain. I would have liked a higher ratio but there was just no room at this scale. When the gearbox was married with the truck chassis I had to juggle positions, so you will see in later pics the crown gears are facing in not out Best laid plans.... Marry studded and studless they said. It will be easy they said... Showing what will eventually be the steering between chassis and truck. The guide tube and pneumatic cylinders are all on gimbals with the pneumatics coupled together. The average height is preserved during any tilting. With prototypes sorted, it's time to bricklink some parts and quieten down the colour scheme! (thank you 42030 for providing 5L thin liftarms with axle hole in LBG color) You can see the relationship between "guide tube" and cylinders here. The pneumatic system was overhauled too many times to remember but this is what it arrived at. It is all controlled by the direction of the motor. Running forwards drives the pump. When running backwards, the lobes operate the pneumatic valves in series, letting small amounts of air escape each rotation. This lowers the chassis in a slow and controlled manner. The motor can be turned on or off and run in either direction at any time due to the valve timing. Early attempts with PF Servo and NXT servo just couldn't park the valve reliably and after a few operations I would hear a slow leak. I have been trying to keep up with the LDD but it's hard to stay motivated when I know I'm just going to have to suck it up and move over to LDraw if I want to include all the motors, pneumatics and LAs Works so far; (I'll make the files available if anybody would like them). I found LDD essential in the early days to plan ahead and simply find parts, but later on the build overtook it. Original 'box' pump. 1x PF XL motor, 4x 6L pumps running at 90 deg to each other. Very smooth but bulky. Flatter attempt in the same vein. The truck itself. The final design for the height control modules. I hope you enjoy the build so far. More pictures to come of chassis, steering, leveling and interior details. I'll leave it to others to decide what 'theme' it belongs to .
