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Hi Our local online technic community LEGO Technic Russia took part in LEGO Technic Trial challenge this november (08/11/15) For me it was a nice possibility to test my DIY obstacles I did with my father during summer and autumn. I was inspired to build such obstacles seeing this brilliant track by OzBen and Doc_Brown (http://www.eurobrick...78&hl=challenge). The goal was to made it modular and transportable. I used wood, building foam, natural stones and other stuff that is easy to find and work with. At first it was hard to imagine all different ideas. In the end I even build river pass module - based on plastic container that was decorated with foam, stones and painted. Some obsatcles was covered randomly by grippy sealant for better wheel grip. I have only one problem - how to fit all the stuff at two narrow tables...but result was very good! Here is Desert752 As for trial challenge: we had about 15 offroaders. Some of them was based on well known MOCs (like Madoca's pickup) and some was own creations. Contestants was divided by 2 groups 1) Trophy. Mostly civil SUVs with at least one open front differential. Rear can be locked or free. Wheels 62 or 68 mm. 2) Unlimted. Tuned SUVs with wheels up to 83 mm. No differentials and wheel gear reductors possible. The idea was that trophy car had better mobility and steering,and Unlimited was able to crawl everywhere. But locked rear diff at first group makes them crawl good as Unlimited trucks. So track times was equal. We measured track time and added extra time for hitting flags or using help of hand/wrecker. Desert752's blue Toyota 6x6 Wrecker worked there as TOW service) In the end we saw that both classes was able to compete each other. First role played driving skills and driving accuracy. Glad to saw there AFOLs from different cities of Russia and even from Belarus. As for me, I have to drive with all that stuff in my car 1300 km one way. We had a nice time there. Thanks for LEGO Group for given prizes. In the end, All phots here http://bricksafe.com/pages/rm8/trial-challenge-megabricks I have a short long video of that meeting. -
I've recently come out of my Lego "dark age" and started rebuilding some of my old sets. I was never one to keep sets together very long, so naturally i've lost a lot of stickers. One of my other hobbies is classic bicycles, which often share the dilema of missing or damaged art. This method for producing decals was taught to me by a clever artist on a popular bicycle forum, so he really deserves any and all credit. This method is simple and inexpensive and much of the materials are common. I assume the trickiest part for most people will be producing the art. I happen to have Adobe Illustrator at home, so I am able to create my own vector art files. I believe other cheap, maybe even free software exists. Sometimes high quality art can also be found as images on the web. On to the step-by-step: 1) Produce the art. Use a laser printer and any cheap printer paper. Laser printing is key... if you don't have one, you could try any of the copy shops around. As mentioned, I used Adobe Illustrator. I am replacing the decals for 6594 Gas Transit. DSC04389 by mkeller234, on Flickr 2) Cover the art with packaging tape. DSC04390 by mkeller234, on Flickr 3) Burnish the tape onto the image. I use scissor handles and rub over the tape surface. You will be able to see which areas have bonded well. It doesn't take much effort. DSC04391 by mkeller234, on Flickr 4) Cut the decals out. The closer, the better. I usually follow the shape of the art, but it doesn't really matter. DSC04392 by mkeller234, on Flickr 5) Submerge in water DSC04393 by mkeller234, on Flickr 6) Once the paper is saturated, it can be rubbed away with light pressure from your thumb. Remove as much paper as possible. DSC04394 by mkeller234, on Flickr As you can see, the decals are clear. This is both a blessing and a curse. I happen to be positioning these over white bricks, so the colors will look nice. For use with dark bricks, you will need to either paint the back with white paint, or find a printer that can print white (ALPS). DSC04395 by mkeller234, on Flickr 7) Place the decals on your model. These decals are very forgiving and can be slid around easily. They stick on their own without glue. Make sure you allow them to dry completely before really handling them. 8) Admire your work! DSC04399 by mkeller234, on Flickr DSC04398 by mkeller234, on Flickr Ahhh... the teeth marks of my youth. DSC04400 by mkeller234, on Flickr Lego trucks sure have changed since I was young. I love the detail in these new models! DSC04401 by mkeller234, on Flickr
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Hello! My Rescue Helicopter (9396) is about to be delivered ( ) and I have this idea to put enormous amount of LEDs in it. I have a plan to use Arduino to program proper blinking sequence. I was thinking about mounting also 2 M-motors to motorize rotor and functions. I would love to control them via Arduino but I do not have an idea how to connect motors in a proper way. Has anyone ever done it? Thanks in advance for any tips! -
Well, I've been lurking on these forums for a while. Time for me to contribute. Since a few weeks, my daughter and me have had a (modest) train layout with a cargo train, a passenger train, three sets of switching tracks and a decent amount of track. Having been an avid lego builder in my younger years, I really love sharing this with her. Anyway, because we were both eager to add some excitement to the setup, I decided to sacrifice two straight pieces of PF track and make a track crossing (whoa, accidents!). How I did it: The first of the two straights was cut in three pieces by cutting out a track section one stud wide on the 6th position, on both sides. Next, the center piece of this chopped up straight was disposed of its side studs. The second straight was also butchered by removing its central 2x2 and both of its central 2x1 side studs. Four more studs were removed on its sides as can be seen on the image. In addition to that, four grooves were carved out of this second straight. Tools used: a sharp knife, a miniature circular saw blade (on a Dremel clone) and a miniature grinder on the same Dremel. No glue whatsoever. It took a while to do this (+- 1 hour). To help making the cuts on the right place, I sacrificed two of my old lego 8x1 flats: it is quite convenient to click one of these on the piece of track right where it needs to be cut. The sawblade can then glide along them. (Honestly, the sacrificed pieces already suffered a dog attack in the early nineties. So it's not really a big loss ) The result: Everything fitted together: And by means of some 2x2 plates (I should probably get some bluish grey ones ), all the parts are connected: The result was added it to our layout and I must say that this piece makes the track a whole lot more interesting when trying to drive two PF trains around. With all the crashes we have had so far, I must say it's a good thing we still have my old faithful eighties firefighter helicopter around. Note: I did not consider buying a 4519 since I can't really justify its ~25€ price tag (used) for my PF setup. And of course it was just a nice silly project I enjoyed doing .
