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Showing results for tags 'Differential'.
Found 5 results
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After a little tinkering, I managed to create this self-locking differential. It locks when the car goes straight and unlocks when turning: A set of 12t gears are connected to the steering rack. When the rack is in the middle (and the car going straight), the two halfshafts are coupled together, locking the differential. When the rack moves to the left or right to steer the car, the 12t gears disengage with the 20t gears and let the differential act like an open diff: The main downsides I see with this setup are that the differential may stay locked during wide turns with small rack movement and the width of the axle is increased. A standard independent suspension with a differential and 68.8x36 ZR wheels (the combination I usually use) is 25 studs wide; with this feature it increases to 27. -
I do want to start this topic off by saying I understand what a differential is, how it works and why it is necessary for standard 2wd setup. What I am curious about is the function of a differential when placed in a drive train between two or more driven axles or 4x4 setup. Is a center differential necessary? Are there performance increases or decreases? What type of results have you had when running PF on a setup with and without a center differential? -
Hello! I am currently working on heavy MOD of 8297, I have sucessfully changed the front part of the model including a gearbox run by M motor, so the model has motorized winch and second output (probably for door lift), as well as servo for steering. I didn't had problem with adding XL for propulsion. I am keeping the original suspension of 8297-B and RWD layout because I am too lazy to invent my own :D The XL propulsion output goes to 20T-reduced to 12T, then again 12T and back to 20T and then standard 3L diff. I think it's enough reduction for XL... But now I have noticed a glitch... when standing without pressure on suspension, the yellow shock absorbers push to the steering arm (part 57515) so much, that it generates too much friction between steering arm and CV joint (part 32494), making one wheel turn slower and sometimes almost stop. This happens also when I pick it up in the air - one wheel turns (the one in the "gear" side of differential). If i slow down the fast spinning wheel, then the other that was slow, start to spin faster as if there was no problem. Also, if I apply pressure to shock absorber, so the CV joint and universal joint go straight to the differential (instead of being in angle), the friction is less and speed of both wheels becomes somewhat similar. Here's two pics of rear suspension from underside, that might help to undersand: http://www.brickshel.../dsc_2139-2.jpg and http://www.brickshel...-B/dsc_2137.jpg As I thought that this is due to the pressure shock absorber is creating towards the steering arm, I lifted the shock absorber one stud higher, so the angle is wider and accordingly, lower pressure (ofc, it made the chassis flat instead of the lifted rear as with 8297 B). But the problem still exist. With current setup I noticed, that when driving or checking wheelspin while they are lifted in air, they turn fine when "driving" backwards, but loose sinergy and start driving with gear crack sound, when "driving" forward. So the question is - can this be "cured" keeping the 8297 rear suspension setup, maybe by replacing a part (differential?) that might be faulty? Or this is going to happen anyways (some natural situation with XL)? I had the nasty sound of slipping gear crack with my previous MOD - 9395, but in the end, I managed to make a drivetrain, that doesn't crack (http://www.brickshel...V2/dsc_0487.jpg) . Now I hope to get an advice, as I don't have experience with XL motors, as well as suspended axles, and maybe I am doing something totally wrong... thanks! Lauris -
Hi All I've been working on an rc van using a Raspberry Pi as the control and have decided to incorporate a technic motor for drive and would like to ask for some help and advice. I want to build a simple gearbox/drive in a compact design, but wasn't sure what gearing/design to use? I have forward and reverse control through the Pi/Scratch and it maybe easier to keep it as simple and reliable as pissible, any help/advice appreciated. You can see my project here http://raspivan.weeb.../rasppivan.html -
Hi Everyone! I just created this, and thought I would share, as it might give someone an idea for a us in a Moc or something. I'm thinking a car perhaps with seats on top. It could only be 3 studs high. It basically gears around the stationary motors and I'm guessing creates the following ratios. 1 motor equals 4:1 2 motors equals 2:1 3 motors equals 4:3 And 4 motors equal 1:1 output. Now if you could create a level on the remotes that engages 1 channel at a time, you would have silky smooth gear changes! Sorry if this has been done before!
