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Showing results for tags 'Lights'.
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Hello Eurobricks . This is the build I made to showcase my Batpod , as well as replicate one of my favourite scenes from "The Dark Knight" ( probably my favourite movie , along with the rest of the trilogy ) . The lamp posts (which along with the batpod are the most " tricky " parts of the build to get right ) took a while to design , as I wanted them to actually light up , and I'm not a big fan of 3d-party lighting for Lego so I had to use the PF lights . The solution came from modding the lights by removing the covering so that they get "bar" (lightsaber blade) wide , so they can fit through pins ( you can find some tutorials online but it's not necessary , you can probably figure it out by yourself ) . The lamp posts are also designed to look exactly like the ones in the film . The batpod is probably one of the best things I've ever built ( at least in my opinion ) and I think it is the very , very close to the " real thing " , at least for mining scale . I wont't talk too much about it , since there is a post just for it right here , so head there for more details about it . The "road" part of the build is simple and somewhat plain, but I like how it looks , and I believe it should be plain as it is so that it doesn't distract from the main part of the build , the two rivals . Finally , the minifigure roster includes the "Tumbler" 's Joker , as well as my custom pad printed Batman ( Dark Knight and Dark Knight Rises suit ) , one of the few Lego Batmen with regular ,non-cartoony-white eyes . So , enough with the boring talk , and on with the pictures : Here is a main shot with everything . you will notice the cables leading to the lamp posts . Again , yes those are modded PF lights and do actually light up , which is barely visible on these photos , as the light they produce is nothing in comparison to the flash of the camera used . A shot of the Dark Knight running full speed for Joker , considering breaking his "one rule" . Here is the lamp post again , sorry if the shadow is a bit distracting , I tried many things to avoid a shadow that can be confused with the build , but with no success . The cables go to the back of the lamp post , and are held there by a 1x1 brick with hole . The go all the way till the pavement , and there again they are held under it with another 1x1 brick with hole . Here is the Joker , equipped with a brickarms weapon ( I can't remember the exact model ) . He is , in my opinion , the best minifigure TLG has ever produced for the Superheroes Line , he looks just like he does ain the movie , and really stands out next to any minifigure . An above shot from Batman's POV , as he heads straight for the Joker . You can get a good perspective view of the whole thing here ( except from the street lights ) . The "set" , without the minifigs and batpod . Joker stands on the stud to the right , while Bats' bike just stands on its own ( it's kinda unstable but not too much ) . Also you can see the cables coming out from under the pavement . A final shot of Bats heading straight from the camera . Thank you all guys for viewing I hope you liked it . Please leave a comment , I want to hear as many opinions and suggestions as you guys can come up with . The Caped Crusader
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Working Republic Gunship 75021 Lights (No Modding required!)
joev14 posted a topic in LEGO Star Wars
Hey there everyone, I'm Joev14, a new guy on the forums. I got myself pretty much all the fall 2013 star wars sets, and have been experimenting with an idea I had, what if it were possible to put working lego electronic lights into a Republic Gunship and AT-TE, without using any modified parts. After much work, I have finally found a way to do lights in both the AT-TE and the Gunship. So without further ado, I present to you, building steps for how to install working unmodified lights into your Republic Gunship. Click the photos to be linked to larger versions of the images. Sorry for the change in lighting throughout the pictures, sometimes the flash from my camera makes it hard to see the separate white parts, so I don't always use it. Step 1: Begin with a standard 75021 Republic Gunship (Mine is slightly modded with orange accents and a few other things, but the base design is still the same) Step 2: Absolutely necessary parts. You will also need a wire of whatever desired length (I recommend the 15-stud long ones), and two of these lights. Step 3: Recommended parts Step 4: Remove any parts that may get in your way, including minifigs inside the hangar. I also recommend removing the wings, although you don't absolutely need to. Step 5: Remove this chunk of the ship. Step 6: Remove the two sides of the upper section of the ship. Step 7: Continue by removing all the above-shown parts. Step 8: Remove the 4 containers. It is your choice whether or not you want to keep them. I chose to turn them into a crate as shown below. Step 9: Canister pod Step 10: Remove these two pieces Step 11: Replace the four openings where the canisters used to be with these four bricks. Also, run a wire from the hanger roof through the opening in front of the handle as shown. Step 12: Place these three plates on the bottom of the battery box. Make sure to put in a 9V battery first, so you don't have to go back and do it later! Step 13: Place the battery box in the space shown. Attach the lead of wire to the battery box (make sure to skip one set of studs, this is crucial). Step 14: Place two of the slopes in front of the wire end, and two small cheese slopes behind the co-pilot. Place 2 L-shaped plates around the wire opening. Step 15: Place two 1x2 plates ontop of the L-shaped ones, then another two L-shaped plates facing in the opposite direction atop those. Finally, place two 1x3 plates ontop, bridging the battery box to the L-shaped plates. Step 16: Place two more 1x3 plates on both sides of the end of the wire. Place two rounded slopes atop them, and finally, place a 2x4 tile on top of the wire end. Step 17: Place two more rounded slopes to cover the wiring. Step 18: Reattach the remaining large sections of the upper part of the ship, excluding the wings. You may fill in the gaps as desired. I intentionally left the 1x4 block area behind the co-pilot exposed so you can still press the button on the battery box. Step 19: Next comes the lights. There is no specific way you have to place them, but I chose to do it in this configuration. With a few red studs, as well as two round trans-orange bricks, I can get the two lamps to light up the whole hangar. Step 20: Above are the parts you should still have remaining, assuming you used the same method I did. Step 21: Reattach the wings and put all your figs back in, your done! Step 22: And boy does it look sweet! What are everyone's thoughts/suggestions for this? The only thing that really seemed to have me stumped was the rounded slopes in front of the handle, I couldn't figure out a sturdier design. While it does hold up, it looks a little awkward with all the obvious spaces between the bricks. I can't figure out a better looking way to do it and still have room for the wire though. Ideas? Facecast Episode discussing these modifications: (skip to 15:20) I will be posting the guide for how to put lights into a 75019 AT-TE soon! -
Hi guys, my 1st post/question, does any one know how to make alternating flashing lights like a railroad crossing has? (Flashes left-right-left-right) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Z9pAUemAw4 Or even to make flashing lights like this: Heres a video of a railroad crossing: Thanks. -
For some time I've been missing flashing PF lights. Yes, you can achieve flashing PF lights with motors, but there has to be a better way, also to allow more dynamic flashing options. A suggestion for this is shown below. It's also on Cuusoo - support and share if you like it. Flash element allows you to create flashing PF lights by setting the duration of the light/flash and delay (time between light/flash) plus an A and B version for more exciting flash combinations for your creations. Flash element must always be on top of connections to other elements to avoid interfering with their power supply (flash will only affect elements added to the top of the flash element). If you need more flash elements on the same battery box: simply add an extension wire and then the flash element. The unit will always flash, no matter the direction of the current. Old 9V bulbs would change state from flashing to fixed if current was reversed. PF flash element will always flash.
