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[ MOC gallery] I am proud to present my take on the small train that was the first modern streamliner. Built in 1934, numbered 9900 and originally simply called the Zephyr (the last name in passenger comfort). After its success it was quickly joined by many more Zephyr's and was soon renamed the Pioneer Zephyr. There are many great articles on this historic train, e.g., here (note the PDF schematics that were incredibly helpful); here; and here. The Zephyr was the first lightweight train set, the first (or one of the first?) diesel electric powered trains, and the first stainless steel train. It was small and light, consisting of a motorcar that was a combination engine and RPO, then a combined express/coach, and a coach observation car. The entire train was articulated, with shared trucks between each pair of cars. I sought to reproduce the as delivered version of the train set. Several substantial changes were made over the first few years of the train's long life, including the addition of a 4th car (or 3rd car if you consider the motorcar a locomotive) and a large Mars light on the front and rear of the train. As such, my model might differ in appearance from many photos of the train after the changes were made. The train has been restored and is on display at the Museum of Science and Industry in Chicago, IL, USA. Another three of these train sets were built for the Burlington route, and the nearly identical Flying Yankee for the B&M. But enough history for now, first a quick image of the train itself, Look at all of those round curves... The nose was a challenge- how to get the rounded and sloped front. The above photo shows my solution. I would have liked to have gotten a little more slope, maybe one plate where I'm currently using half plate steps, but that would have only worked if there were curved sloped bricks of just the right shape/size. I was pleased with how well I was able to capture the distinctive air vents above the cab (including the small gap between the two vents, with room for the headlight), and also how I was able to get the right topographical shape from the rectangular slope bricks for the transition from the front to the top curves. At the end of the engine compartment is an abrupt narrowing and slow drop in height (again at half plate tall steps) to the roof of the cars. The photo also shows the IR receiver not so eloquently hidden. Some of the other shots show a "cap" built over the receiver. That was for the show this past weekend (which I'll post more about after uploading photos), and at this show, 10 ft away from where my trains were running, there were four stations for kids to run lego city train sets, with IR controllers and all. The cap blocked most of the IR, but you could still operate the train from 2 ft away. With that success, I rebuilt it again this morning and put the IR receiver completely under the 1x3 curved slopes so that it is now completely hidden. Again, it will hear the IR receiver from 2 ft away. I'll post photos of that update soon, but that will send the entire folder back for Brick Shelf moderation and I don't want to do that right now. Below the car you can see the skirting on the powered truck and along the body. This feature of the prototype also made it easy to hide a black PF train motor while blending it in with the model (similarly on the trucks, using standard PF train wheels in black, but more on that in a moment). Also of note are the doors with a half plate recess, the brick built mail catch, and custom decals using fonts from RailFonts.com The above shot shows a side view of the motorcar. The stark light does not do the step down in the roof justice. It looks much better with overhead lighting (as seen in some of the other shots). The above thumbnails show how I did the connections between cars. As noted above, the skirting on the wheels covers plain black PF train wheel sets. I got the idea for the 4x4 curves for the diaphragms from Swoofty's SP cars. The configuration in the photos is designed to run on R88 or better curves. The lenght of the cars lead to too extreme swings on R44 curves and the outer corners will knock together. However, with a quick rebuild of the trucks to add one stud separation, she will run fine on R44 tracks. Here is the middle car. The doors were another challenge to get the half plate offset with the profile bricks, and then quick turn from studs up to studs sideways. All sorts of fast brickwork in the intervening 6 stud width of the train. Needless to say, my brain is still hurting a bit from all of the hoops to get the offsets working. Although none of the photos show it, the coach windows offer a clear view across the train. Here's a shot of the observation car. More half plate offset doors, skirting, etc. The rounded observation end was another challenge... ... I started with my basic design from the North Coast Limited. I made a few quick improvements- the NCL had 1 brick tall windows on the sides and so I had to make the observation windows either 2.5 plates tall or 5 plates tall. The Pioneer Zephyr has 5 plate tall windows to help emphasize the small size of the prototype, which then made the transition to the snotted windows on the curved section a lot easier. But I also faced a challenge. The NCL uses a curved winshield to transition from the 1x3 curved bricks of the roof to the curves of the rear of the train. I did not have enough height to fit that same piece on the Zephyr. So I wound up using a wedge plate design to again capture the topographical form of the curved section. It works from a distance at least. Here's a shot of the train from the inside of a R108 curve... ... and a shot at speed at the show this past weekend. Note the bulb over the IR receiver (which as noted above, has since been smoothed over and the IR receiver can no longer be seen from the outside (I'll post those photos in a week or two). If that isn't enough, you can find more photos here in the full gallery. Comments, questions, suggestions, etc. are welcome...
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Tonight I've modified my Horizon Express, to fit two rechargable battery boxes, two IR receivers, and two motors into one cab. It's rather heavy now... I do still need to put a #8869 Polarity Switch in there though, to get the motors running in the same direction. (I don't have one yet). It'll be a tight fit, but I'm pretty confident it'll go in. I had to pretty much gut the interior of the train in order to fit everything in. Although the outside looks superficially similar, it's actually quite different in places. Can you spot the changes?
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Hi all, I'm wondering if anyone knows whether this is possible? I need to power a long train, which will need two train motors to pull it. The only problem with this is that it'll probably drain the battery box in about half the normal time, so I'm wondering if it's possible to connect both motors to an IR Receiver, then connect that to one battery box, and connect that battery box to a second one (using an extension cable mounted between the first battery box and the cable from the IR Receiver)? I assume it would work, as it would then be drawing power from both battery boxes, but I'm not an electrical engineer, so can't be certain. Thanks! -
As some of you may know LEGO is running a Technic Building Competition with Mercedes-Benz. I was looking forward to participate and it took me a while to understand what future truck would look like. Initial idea of building truck driven by both front and back axles was quite simple to implement. Two L-motors have been used for that. Steering is performed by Servo motor and truck is controlled remotely. Fun fact - chassis without aerodynamic cover is somewhat reversible and can be used up side down. Final model is very sturdy thanks to slick and strong body. Unfortunately, due to selected width rear axle is somewhat less reliable and has gear grinding upon start but drives normally afterwards. This is something wasn't possible to completely solve having double wheels per each side. [/url] Below you can check my vision of a truck in year 2045: Few more pictures can be found on my Flickr Stats: 2 L-motors for propulsion Servo motor for steering Small non-rechargeable battery box 44 studs long 17 studs wide 24 studs tall weights 1098g. no suspension -
Hi guys, I have been trying to make some trains (generally diesel) and a problem that I have always found is powering. for a steam locomotive this is usually pretty simple because of the lack of articulation but wel, bogies are articulated and motors are mounted in the build itself. my question was, how does gearing react to this? and what is the handiest for compact solutions? vertical or horizontal? with vertical you get this: lego 6L train bogie by alterlegotechnic, on Flickr how could something like this be used in a locomotive? would the motor stick loosely in the chassis and what about a vertical motor like this (http://www.brickshel...16/cam06194.jpg) will there happen something in corners? like that the would go faster or some? and with Horizontal you get this Iowa Pacific SLRG 515/518 Mechanics by wildchicken_13, on Flickr how can gearing do this? i mean the rotating bogie, what happens to the gears in it? obviously could 2 M motors be needed for a small train (around 4 cars) or will it fail? I heard something about a V2 receiver? I have a V1 (I think) and that a normal one won't be able to give enough power to both? What is better? XL or M? when will a XL be needed? so in one sentence: vertical or horizontal? what happens to gearing and what is easier when using normal motors?
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Hello This will be my first post to showing one of my moc: Mercedes Actros 3248 Hooklift. I know a lot of people know this model, from my pictures on Brickshelf. I finished building this moc in early 2010, so it is 6 years old. Yes its very late to post here, but i think better late then never. The truck ist pf-remote controlled with 4 functions: - Drive by one PF-XL Motor to the rear wheels (2-Axle) - Steering by one old-style 9V-Motor (2838c01), second axle with transmission 16:20 - Hooklift powered by one PF-XL Motor - Boom look for tipping - loading / unloading controlled by one micro-motor (the eletric-cable can be changed for electric trailers or additional equipment There are also some manually fuctiones / features: - Two-speed transmission with gear ratio 1 : 1 or 1 : 3 - PF-lights in front and 9V-flashing lights on the roof working when the battery-box "on" - Openable doors by the drivers-cabine - Openable doors in backside by all three containers Scale from this model is 1 : 17. There are some more pictures in my brickshelf-gallery here: http://www.brickshel...?m=swissbagger1 And also one video on my youtube-channel: Feel free for your comments Kind regards Beat Schuler (Swissbagger) -
This is my entry for the Rebrick competition. Essentially, it is a mashup of the 911 Targa and 918 Spyder (the 914.5 is the average of the two model numbers). It is built to 1:10 scale. Back in 2011, there were rumours of Porsche introducing a model between the 911 and 918 Spyder (one website did joke about calling it the 914.5), but such a model hasn't yet been manufactured (although it is being developed as the Porsche 960). The model is roughly 1:10 scale at about 58 studs long, 25 wide (27 including mirrors) and 16 high with 68.8x36mm wheels. Please bear in mind that I am a relatively inexperienced builder having only been building for 2 years and with only a few thousand parts to hand - by the end, I had completely run out of light grey parts. I went for function over form - while I am good with making ultra-compact mechanical systems such as gearboxes and suspended axles, bodywork isn't really my strong point. Sorry that the video is a little shaky - looking into getting better video equipment. Please watch it - you'll get to see the internal workings right down to the core! I haven't provided many pictures here because the detailed stuff is in the video. This is the FULL video (>1min) - the video I submitted to the Rebrick competition is a cut-down unlisted version of this. A full list of functions: Flat-6 piston engine in rear, driving rear axle. 8-speed paddle-shifting gearbox (sequential) for the piston engine. PF Large motor driving the front (no gearbox, just like the 918). Unfortunately, I don't have any IR components other than MINDSTORMS, so it isn't RC. Full independent suspension with non-zero camber and castor angles (I think it also has kingpin inclination - not sure about that). Steering wheel operates 4-wheel steering. The knobs on the front (black 12-tooth gears) and rear (hidden, accessible through rear window) control the suspension's ride height. Each wheel has its own control, so it is possible to make the car lean to one side (might be useful for oval racing). Two seats in the front with opening doors. Retractable rear wing. Folding targa-style roof. I also made a few custom stickers for this model (unprofessionally of course - just printed them out on paper). The Porsche logo is on the front, the steering wheel and the wheel hubs. The rear air intake slits (911-style) are also done with a sticker. I added the Porsche brand name and a fake model name on the back. The "Spy" and "Targ" bits were edited out of the actual "Spyder" and "Targa" logos; the "914.5" was done from scratch. The number plates aren't my own - you may recognise them from the 42043 set. You can probably tell that I lacked good headlight pieces even after searching though my dust-filled System brick collection. The best I could find were white 24-tooth clutch gears - I guess that gives it a hardcore-TECHNIC feel. Thanks for reading :D! -
I have some difficulties in placing this topic in correct section. Should it be Trains? On the other hand it is supposed to work in a modular town, that's why I put it in Town. This is my biggest creation so far. Actually those are two modulars designed to be placed together on a display. The depth is 48 studs instead of regular 32 because of tracks and platform. I decided it was unrealistic to stick to 32 and still have decent building. Anyway, on with presentation :) What I hope is apparent from the picture above is that I incorporated some lights into these structures. The old 9V battery box is in the warehouse and gives power to all six pairs of lights (2x 9V in warehouse and 4x PF in station). There is also old style 9V switch that controls turning lights on and off without the need to reach for the battery box (black switch on the side of the warehouse). Before I show you the warehouse let's have a look at the platform: The warehouse: This is how the electric parts are distributed in the warehouse. You can also see the inside with some pallets and a cupboard for employees. Now, let's have a look at the station building: First - the roof. This is where I put all the lights that go with the station. This is how it looks like from the underside: That's 4 pairs of PF lights, one PF extension cable and one 9V cable to provide easy to disconnect outlet. The station itself has some nice flowers on the front, benches for passengers, some roof over the platform and a phone booth. That's what you could already see from the outside. So let's have a look inside :) There is a bit o a stir at the moment because of some careless passenger. Don't worry - this is being cleaned as we speak :) Looking from the front of the station you have confectionery that sells ice cream too and on the right your typical railway station fast food stand (with microwave in case your yesterday pizza is cold! :D) Looking from the platform side on the left there are some tables belonging to the restaurant, ticket booth and some waiting area. On the right there is an obligatory public toilet :), two gaming machines and luggage deposit lockers. If you wonder how it looks in town - its natural environment - here are just a couple of pictures: Full gallery is available as always on my Bricksafe: http://bricksafe.com...-with-warehouse
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Hello everybody, Here's my modification of the B-model of the 42042 crawler crane. It has power functions with remote control. The motors are used for slewing, moving the trolley and for hoisting/lowering the hook. the base is still provisional, also the hook and the hoisting wire still have to be added. as it turned out the crane has a good weight balance, it stays upright even with the the batterybox removed. Later I'll upload a video and I'll do a load test. The spring is used to keep the tension on the trolley wire, the trolley itsel is a little bit colour vomit, but I lack the correct parts And the last photo, together with the the modification of the A-model of the 42042 I hope you enjoyed it, feel free to comment
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HI to all! the video itself explain all I want to say about the difference between the same ratio obtained with worm gears or with normal gears, the first are really useful in lego and allow to build really particular stuff, but.. they have a lot of friction. i was really surprised from how much difference there is in the power output of the two mechanism, and it is directly proportional to the force the system has to generate: i test them with an !kg weight, and while my version works fine, the worm geared-one fail to lift it! thank you for watching, hope that this video will help someone of you to make better mocs! -
Hi All. I want introduce You our project. It's Lego Led kit prepared to 42043 Mercedes Actros, just watch what the result is and what I will introduce: As You can see it's controlled by LEGO Power Functions IR Remote Control (item no. 8885). It's supplied by Lego PF Battery Box. There are used two channels, 1ch is used for driving, lights will turn on automatic. 4ch is used to turn on and off programmed Led lights. First I will explain what is happen when you modify your model to be driving by lego PF. 1CHANNEL: When You first time move Your model the parking lights turn on automatic. 1. If You want to turn on right side You have just tu move control button right up to blinked for right. After You turn it blink 3 times and turn off automatic. For the left is, right channel down. 2. For moving forward You move left control button up, when leave it stop lights will turn on for few seconds (imitation car brake) 3. For moving backwards You move left control button down, reversing lights turn on, when leave it stop lights will turn on for few seconds (imitation car brake) 4 CHANNEL: 1. First time left control button up: Parking lights on; Second time left up: Xenon headlights on; Third time left up: Xenon headlights off; Next time: Xenon headlights on (program is running in loop until reset all 4th function) 2. First time left control button down: Beacon lights 1 program; Second time left down: Beacon lights 2 program; Third time left down: Beacon lights 3 program; Fourth time left up: Beacon lights 4 program; Fifth time left down: Beacon lights off; Next time left down: Beacon lights 1 program (program is running in loop until reset all 4th function) 3. First time right control button up: Hazard lights on: Second time right up: Hazard lights off; Next time: Hazard lights on (program is running in loop until reset all 4th function) 4. One time right down: ALL RESET. This is just my idea about what channel, which control button is responsible for some functions. It could be programmed differently, it depends on our mind :D It's not finished, We have to put it in small box, finish the connectors and produce some parts like PF connector. Remember it is IR so the range is not long. Sorry if I made some English Mistakes.
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Hi to everybody! It's been a while from my last MOC...a year and 1 day to be precise ..well, how some of you already knew, the last year I bought and refurbished a home and that involved much of my free time. Now that the home is almost finished (I doubt that it ever will), a baby is coming ...that's mean that I'm planning to do instructions, but I don't know when. Now, that's my new MOC. It's a Dump truck 8x8. The scale is about 1:11. It was inspired by the Iveco Trakker (more than anything else to derive the dimensions), but the front grid ended to be more a beheaded batman logo. It's 8 wheels drive, moved by 4XL Motors connected to the wheels via a driveline, it has a differential per axle. 2 XL Motors drive the 1st and the 2nd axle and the other 2 drive the 3rd and 4th axles. This allow to have a virtual central diff and stress a bit less the drivetrain since the torque is splitted. A fake 6-inline engine is connected to the driveline of the 1st and 2nd axles. The 1st and the 2nd are steering axles via 2 PF Servo motors (one for each axle), with different turning radius and working steering wheel. The suspensions system consists in 4 live axles. Shock absorbers for the 1st and 2nd axles, with an anti-roll bar for the 1st axle, leaf springs for the 3rd and 4th. The Pneumatic system consists in 2 small pump driven by an L motor, that provide compressed air for tilting the cab, elevate the bed and to an hypothetical trailer. The lightening system consist in 4 PF Led, 2 in the front and 2 in the back for the headlights (and 2 extension wires). In the back there is a connector where is possible to connect lights of a trailer. There is even a winch in the front moved by an L Motor. It uses 2 SBrick that control everything, with the exeption of tilting the cab and providing compressed air to the trailer, that are actuated manually. It has openable doors (manually) that allow access to detailed interiors of the cab and it has a trailer coupling. The truck itself is built to be a base for several future MOC/MOD. In fact, tipping bed system a part, everything is contained in the chassis or in the side tanks. Weight and dimensions: Length: 93 studs (74.4 cm) Width: 29 studs (23.2 cm) (without mirrors) Height: 42 studs (33.6 cm) (without antennas) Weight: 6 Kg PF elements: 4 XL Motors for drive. 3 Servo Motors, 2 for steering and 1 for the tipping bed pneumatic valve. 2 L Motors, 1 for the pneumatic pump and 1 for the winch. 4 Led, 2 in the front and 2 in the back. 2 Li-Po battery. 2 SBrick. 4 20cm extension cables. 1 50cm extension cables. Pneumatic elements: 3 new long pneumatic cylinders 2 new small pneumatic pumps 3 pneumatic valves 2 M pneumatic cylinders A video is coming soon For more pics see: https://www.flickr.c...157667401525315 I hope you like it! -
Hello! mocers, I'm back! i just success to it this video I recorded this summer, it is a tournament with three middleweight BOT, you'll find the stats on the first part of the video, but here there is the brickshelf folder if you want to see more pictures of them, enjoy the video and thanks for watching! just some oddity: (ALERT:watch the video first!) BOB (originally named BOBCAT) was built (and driven) by my cousin, he loves to make simple but adamant and overpowered bot and (as said by some info at the end of the video) they are really effective in a sumo arena RIBALTOLANDO was the jocker robot, built by me, but drive by my cousin against SCORPIONE (tracked scorpion) it was a real challenge to build an invertible bot, but it should be really hard to defeat in a real arena (not in a sumo one) its strengths are all visible in the fight against BOB (maybe because I was driving it... hem hem ) SCORPIONE CINGOLATO is the evolved version of wheeled scorpion, but it ends like all my sophisticated bots, it is beautiful and really powerful but not too much realiable. Its main problem is the thermal cut-off of my lipo BB that is a little bit damaged and so the robot stops sometimes when reloading the weapon while tracks are running PS: this video is one of my first on youtube and i changed editor (from iMovie to light works) so due to some difficulties i deleted the whole original audio and replaced it with songs, hope the final work is something good
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Hello all! It's been a while, I posted here anything, but now I'll try to upload my works more recently. I start with this Unimog 401, which is the oldest Unimog with Merecdes-Benz star. This one has also an "Ochsenkopf" (ox head) in the hood, which was later removed in the next generations. The building time took about 2 weeks at all, and this is my first model which got the special dark green color, to get close to the original's painting. I ordered several types of these bricks, more models will come in this color. I chosed for building the 1:7 scale, with the 108 mm RC4WD rock crusher XT wheels. They aren't Lego, but as far as I can see nowadays it's normal in tyres, and the look is better imho with these. Goals: Llooking and working authentically, as close as possible to the real thing, beside of off-road capabilities and remote control. Main functions: Motorized: driving, steering, gear change Automatic: steering wheel, piston engine, PTO in front and rear Manual functions: openable hood, doors, rear side Working: One Lego PF L motor drives, one M steers. The 2 speed linear gearbox is operated by a M motor. Steering wheel and suspension also works. The original has rigid axles with torque tubes, so I chosed also them. Four of 8466's springs were taken apart, so I got 4 coil springs to get the authentical look in machinery of axles. I also attached differential imitating disks. The rear view mirrors work a little. One L motor drives the whole thing, it's sliding in two axles, because of the 2 speed (1:3 and 1:1 ratios) linear gearbox. This way there is no need for driveshaft length adjuster between the driving motor, and the incoming axle of the gearbox, but the rear PTO has one from 6 holed pulleys. There is a PTO also in the front with a pulley, like in the original. The working L4 piston engine has mini pistons from 2L axles and half bushes. Details: I wanted to build as details as possible both inside and outside, like: detailed interior, steering wheel, stickers (for instruments too), gear change levers in the cab, handbrake lever, mudguards seen from inside, fuel tank, number plates, lights, seats, rear wood cover, detailed engine room, tanks for brake, exhaust, etc. Pictures I made it in the winter season, that's why you can see snow as background: https://www.flickr.c...157667176594155 http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=563725 With dark green wheel covers: There are anti-roll bars to prevent rolling, the vertical 6L links connect them with the axles: The diff imitators: Of course I made a video, too: Hope you like it. -
Hello all fellow train folks, today I have another MOC but it isn't a train, it is a track piece that we haven't been able to get in 10 years. Here it is more info to follow. 1). It has to be the same size as previous tracks. 2). It would need to use minimal parts and be easy to construct. 3). It would need to be as quiet as possible or be as quiet as standard Lego tracks when the train rolls over it. 4). It would have to be stable and would not fall apart in use. I hope you all enjoy my MOC and this track piece. I you feel inclined constructive criticism is always welcome! If you thought It was brilliant you can support it here: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/131973
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Hi all, I've been doing a bit of brainstorming about what to do concerning the current state of affairs for trains on Lego Ideas, and while I am currently working on a couple different solutions of my own, I finally landed on an idea that would include all of you as well. A bit of friendly competition, all towards a common goal: a better/more appealing train set offering for Lego fans. So, I am proposing we start a set design contest here on Eurobricks!! (maybe even get it up on the front page?) The Parameters: -A complete train set, not a standalone car, engine, or track-side structure. Generally an engine, 2-3 rolling stock, and one structure. -A 1000 parts count maximum, which must include necessary PF elements and at least 20 pieces of track (standard oval). -A self-contained engine, meaning no rolling stock can carry necessary PF elements. -At least 2-3 "play features", not including the operation of the train itself. -At least one alternate build. (Alternate models do not have to meet the same requirements as the primary model) -Must use parts currently in production, however new/different colors of said parts can be used. Some Suggestions: -Come up with a few stories about what the minifigs included in the set could and would be doing. -Try to avoid using generic flat cars and wimpy helicopters. -Use 1-2 rare/unique colors that haven't appeared in a train set yet, like azure, purple, dark red, etc. -Try not to make your train too regionally specific by using road names such as GWR, LNER, UP, CN, etc. Color schemes may be mimicked though. -Develop a play feature that hasn't been used in a train set before. -Try to have each element of the set be as interesting on its own as it is with the rest of the set. I'm not sure how much time should be given to a contest like this, but I'd reckon about 30-90 days would be about right? Then, about 2-4 weeks for voting? The top 3-5 projects (depending on the amount of participants) could then be refined a bit before submitting to Lego Ideas. If this contest receives frontpage support, maybe some prizes could be awarded to the top finalists...? Let me know your thoughts on my proposition, and also who I need to contact to make this happen! Thanks for your time, ~M_Slug~
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All of a sudden while at work, this idea came to me and I got so interested. Objectives: Bus as 42008 C Model Good looking as much as I can include bus details as much as I can pneumatic door and baggage driven by pump compressor motorized drive as a 3rd function (what else a bus has to offer?) manual steering easily removable battery Parts: approximately 930 parts out of 1276 Build time: around 3 weeks Limitations C Model, hence no parts outside 42008 allowed 42008 presents the folloing challenges: not enough lift arms to build a floor in the passenger area managing the available quantities of Green and Red beams to build the bus body and make a good choice where green and where red goes. weak pneumatics I'm new and this is my 1st serious try, I only built 42008 before this. In general I'm satisfied by the end product. Next are things I think could be better: hiding the pneumatic hoses, got lazy at that. sliding baggage door, (couldn't figure out how to do that) more sturdy/smooth steering two doors rather than one using the white gear I may try to enhance this later (as a free MOC), but for now I will go to build some car sets to learn more about vehicle functions. I will start with 42029. Thank you for having a look. Remaining parts (around 340)
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Hi, Lego train lovers, this is, to the best of my knowledge, the first and only Ultra Agents (UA) Lego train, fully functional using Lego PF system. My grandchildren Laura & Filip and me adore UA sets (just discontinued this year, unfortunately) although they were not easily accessible in EU but somehow we found several sets. So we started playing from train cars and after three of them the engine to power the train was needed. The idea for perfect locomotive was found in the article on The Maglev Technological Revolution on the maglev.net web pages (http://www.maglev.ne...ical-revolution) where futuristic trains are illustrated by Ferdinand D. Ladera from DigitalHadz (second in the upper illustration on web page; I tried to contact Mr. Ladera by all possible e-addresses and networks but with no answer). Of course, our train model is not levitating as maglev one, it is using typical Lego train wheels. And here it is, the whole UA train (pictures with link to HR photo): (http://www.bricksafe...pg/1920x321.jpg), and UA locomotive itself (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg) and (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg), with Solomon Blaze’s hologram as a driver (lightened inside). There is (futuristic, of course) front door entrance to the engine (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg) and when fully opened, you can see Trey Swift in inspection on anybody trying to enter the train. (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg). From the back, Steve Zeal is appointed as a security guard (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg). First UA train car (from right to the left from the first photo above) is one having anesthetic gas chamber with fully asleep most dangerous villains Sharx and Terabyte, including Sharx’s dangerous remote controlled shark (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg). Second UA car is for prisoners (Toxikita, Invizable, Electrolyzer, and Antimatter) in chains and carefully observed by Mrs. Hydron and Max Burnes, (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg) while Jack Fury is inside his shuttle (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg). And the third UA car has secret chamber UAM/003 (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg) with Caila Phoenix on armory when fully opened (can rotate and shoot to any direction) (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg), and with Jack Fury’s twin brother in hyper vehicle and real Solomon Blaze in his headquarter with communication equipment to contact other UA officers (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg). Short YT video is attached, as well ( ). Hope you like the train as much as we do. The next that we are just preparing to do is UA Train Station, of course. We will not be discontinued that easy. , &
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Hi! Wanted to share my latest RC car. So here it goes: Built for fun and for use in Latlug events. I used Nico71 Honda Civic chassis as a base, small modifications here and there (different placement of shock absorbers, reinforced servo motor with more brackets). The goal was to make something similar to Mark 1 VW Golf GTI Hope you like it :) More pictures here -
Hello everyone! Here's my version of a suspended monorail train, hope you'll enjoy it I'm introducing it here because this forum has been quite helpful to me while building this, especially for the doors design. To see more of it please head to this page: http://www.moc-pages.com/moc.php/423851 You can see hi-res pictures and a short video here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/23071566@N02/sets/72157663217856521 Cheers!
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Since I emerged from my dark ages, I noticed that there seems to be a trend of increasing use of Power Functions (PF) and Remote Controls (RC), in official sets and MOCs. Where adding a motor used to be optional, now there are more and more TLG models with integrated PF and RC. Even worse (in my eyes) is the fact that an official set can’t be a flagship model without any form of PF. When I see Technic MOCs in the various media, this phenomena is even more clearly visible. MOCs which get the most admiration from the community are packed full of motors, receivers, battery packs, lights, etc. The most common MOD of released sets is “RC-ing” the functions. New initiatives like the S-brick seem to confirm this trend. I observe this and I can’t understand what the fascination is, I have always had a preference for manual controls. This tend to lead to more fascinating mechanisms and make more compact models possible (just look at the amazing MINI-contest entries). In MOCs, it forces you to think about the user-friendliness of the controls and gives valuable feedback about the load on the drivetrain and the efficiency of a mechanism. I can understand adding one PF motor to avoid endless knob turning, although I found that adding a hand crank like on the 8288 Crawler crane improves this dramatically. But PF-ing all functions doesn’t necessarily makes it easier to control and takes away most of the feedback. With RC, I feel even more detached from the model and its functions. Additionally, I don’t like the noise the Lego motors make and I cringe every time a motor triggers the overload protection of a LA. When my 42030 and 8043 are switched off, the feel like dead weight and I notice a bigger threshold to take them from the shelve and play around with. All this has lead me to remove the PF and RC from a lot of my TLG sets to make the model manual: My 41999, 42025, 8070 have been de-PF-ed and became more interesting by it. In conclusion: in my opinion, PF and especially RC make a model slow, noisy, heavy, bulky and expensive. So my questions is simple: what is the fascination with motorizing a Technic model? Is it something younger generations want or demand, or is it a phenomenon driven by AFOLs? (PS: Don’t get me wrong, this is not a rant against PF and RC, I really can appreciate their value. But I do struggle to understand the fascination with motorizing everything.) -
Hey Guys I am wondering if anyone knows a good shop (Online) that sells lego trains (Mostly 9v and PF) for a good price other than Bricklink and a Lucky eBay find? Thanks so much -RailCo
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Hello people of EB, this is my first post here. So, this is an army truck used by the Finnish military. The building process took about a month for me. The drive motor is of course an XL-motor, which is hooked up to Sariel's 2-speed trial truck gearbox. I'm sure you can find it on his site. Shifting gears works with remote control, and so do drive and steering of course. Inside the gearbox are the gears 12/20 and 16/16. One XL-motor has plenty of torque to drive this thing, especially with the V2-receiver. Both axles have 3-link live axle suspension. Front axle has hard yellow shocks, and rear axle has soft red shocks, for obvious reasons. The real truck has leaf springs, but as you all know they are rather silly to do with Lego. The steering M-motor is sitting on top of the front axle and is geared 8/40. The doors can be opened and the 5-cylinder engine in the cabin is attached to the XL-motor. The real Sisu has a 6-cylinder engine, but I couldn't fit that. At the rear of the truck you can find a spare tire, which is a lot smaller than the other tires due to lack space and saving weight. Sorry for the bad pictures :/
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I present my latest MOC, a 6x4 Dump Truck: Click pictures for highres, or visit the BrickSafe folder if you want to It is based off of the chassis I made for my 8x4 Recovery Truck last year, but obviously has lost an axle, and been adopted for remote control with Power Functions. It features: -Drive with two XL-motors -Steering with Servo-motor -Independent suspension on front axle -Live axle suspension on rear axles -Dumpable bed with one M-motor and two LAs -Openable cabin -Openable doors -V6 engine driven from both rear axles, via a lockavle central differential -PF LEDs up front -PF LED reversing lights I found a sloution to steer the rear axle, using a turntable and a linkage to the servo motor, combined with pendular suspension, but it had too much slack, and wobbled all over the place, so I ditched it. I also made a mechanism to lift and lock the rearmost axle, but that to turned out less than satisfactory, so I ditched that as well Pictures! There you can see the red lever above the XL-motor, that engages the central diff The bed is quite spacious I was unsure if the M-motor would be sufficient to tip the bed, but it turned out very well, and it has no problem, even with some load! Close up of the tipping LAs. The driving rinf you can see above the rearmost axle is from the locking mechanism I tried to make, that didn't work. I then forgot to take it out Here the cabin is tilted forward. The battery box is held in a solid structure behind the cabin, as you can see. The servo for steering is placed vertically just below the battery box. Close-up of the V6 engine, including "twin turbochargers" The side panels taken off the battery box compartment, shows the wiring and placement of the servo At the front of the bed, we have a spare wheel, and some tools ...for when you need to change a tyre (obviously) The rear axles with left wheels removed for better view. You can also see where the tipping LAs are attached And of course, the under belly shot An LDD representation of the drive line. Green is where the power from the two XLs come from, purple is the axle to the engine, cyan and orange are axles 2 and 3 respectively. All in all I am pretty pleased with the result, as I've been wanting to build this for a long time! Hope to make a video of it in the not too distant future! I will also perfect the LDD model, make it available for those who want it, and post it on rebrickable. I might even make instructions for it, if I fin the time, and can get LDraw to work again -
Well, I have been assembling my 41999 copy, which some of us kept it to certain date and didn't assemble once received. When I got to the point I had to use PF Battery Box I found its LED didn't switch on with a battery switch. It turns out BB is dead, as I have tested it with two sets of batteries which perform fine in a different BB. Ok, I wasn't disappointed here as I knew LEGO Customer Service is great and will definatelly replace it. So I used my other BB to finish building the model. Later I went to LEGO CS webpage and submitted required information, that was 23 days ago actually. I received confirmation email shortly, no updates after that. Today I made a call to CS on a different question, but also asked what is the status on broken piece. The guy on the call told me I should bring it back to shop where I bought the set to get it changed/swapped or receive a refund. I told him it isn't quite possible due to limited nature of the set I have (not to mention it should be transported to a different country) - "This is the only way, this part can be changed", he told. Well this is not what I expected. Please note, I'm from Lithuania (that's in EU) where we don't have official LEGO presence, just LEGO brand stores not owned by TLG. The best what I was hoping for TLG would sent me another BB to Lithuania. The worst - TLG would send it to any address in a county where their e-shop is shipping (that would still suit me). But advise I was given is quite shocking. Standard BB isn't expensive but still costs 7,99 € in TLG e-shop and a bit less on BL. I can live with this, as there are plenty of BB provided in different sets so I might end up having too much of them. But overal eperience isn't very good at this moment. Now I wonder what is the cause of such requirement and if there are known pieces/parts that cannot be changed alone, only with a complete set? Did anyone had similar experience?
