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I finally got time to take decent pictures of my latest Imperial turbolaser turret. Turbolaser Turret by Veynom, on Flickr It is based from the design of Ismael Trabajo found on the Internet and adapted according to my stock of available parts. Turbolaser Turret by Veynom, on Flickr It is an easy build with solid rendering. It can rotate, guns can move up and down (synchronized). The turret can be open to put in to 3 crewmen inside. Kids have lot of fun with that turret and many rebels died to bring you back these pictures. Turbolaser Turret by Veynom, on Flickr Turbolaser Turret by Veynom, on Flickr And when exposing, it is massive enough to attract the eye while being a welcome change to the usual fleets of ships. Everyone asking for it, I made it public: here is a link toward the LDD of Ismael Trabajo that I used as basis for this MOC. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1vaj7zQ8D8XmhPy3PowN1U9MTxkfBfc1v
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Greetings! Recently I have noticed some people have made custom lipo's battery boxes like Doc_Brown I would like to know if anybody has experience with this type of thing, and how much voltage I can use without damaging motors If you know of any brands of lipo's with good ratings I could look into that would be much appreciated, also I am considering getting an SBrick and would like to know if more than 9V would damage it. Thank you -
Hi all, since it's now published on Brick Model Railroader group, I can finally present also here in EuroBricks my second entry, this time in "MOW vehicle" section: You already know it from the WIP thread - it's a small little patchwork of two Fiat 600T/850T vans and a FIAT 500 499,5cc (21HP) motor. Here's the full story! And here's some bonus content!!! Presentation for Octrainber ends here , but there are some other photos: Transmission is on only one axle, as in the prototype, and it's using (again!!! ) the twisted rubber band transmission. The battery is a 200Mah Li-Po, connected to a small circuit in order to charge-discharge and manage the output to the motor. It can be recharged with an USB Adapter (in this case a serial to USB adapted I had at home). And two videos, showing the rubber band transmission and a small track with the 500 in action! https://www.flickr.com/photos/138174786@N04/51670350725/in/album-72157720126403108/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/138174786@N04/51673059120/in/album-72157720126403108/ I hope you like it! Ciao! Davide P.S. for reference! For more information, please refer to this site (it can be translated) https://scalaenne.wordpress.com/2017/07/29/draisina-fiat/ and to this video, showing a restoration of the Fiat 500 Draisina - which inspired the Giovanni and Giorgio story (Italian only, sorry, maybe it can work with subtitles) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7vwRs0Akkk&t=211s
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Following a successful build powering a seventies 4,5 volt locomotive via a PF receiver and a 4.8 volt 4xAA battery pack, I wanted to make a second one. But I had no spare 4.5V motors left, I have 4x 12 volt spares though. And the 12 volt motors run much faster than the 4,5 volt motors, so it would be great to build a similar thing with a 12 volt engine. I ordered a bunch of DC-DC converters, 3 pcs that convert 5V to 12V, and a few others, adjustable. I did some trials tonight. So a 4.8V battery pack, followed by the DC-DC converter, verified it's output is 12V, feeding that into a PF receiver, and its output to a 12V old seventies motor. The train ran very well in the test setup, both amazingly powerful and very fast. So I set out to build it together in a model. That's where trouble started. Upon connecting the battery with the DC-DC converter with connected PF receiver, smoke came out of the DC-DC converter. Afterwards, I connected the PF receiver to a lab supply, and it still worked. I reckoned I had a bad unit and took one of the other 3 identical units. That at first worked, but then I noticed that the same IC that had smoked on the first unit, got extremely hot here too. And the sad end result a few attempts later was that now, the PF receiver is dead. No light, no sign of life. No smoke either, but... And the lab power supply conforms it: it's dead. I don't think I did anything wrong. The DC-DC converter can handle 8 watts, which ought to be largely sufficient: I never observed a 12V motor drawing over 400mA current, not even when almost stalled. And the DC-DC converters started getting hot/smoking right away, so under no-load conditions. On the other hand, two devices failing in a row in the same manner seems no coincidence. I have other DC-DC converters that can handle more, but that is moot right now, because my PF receiver died so I can't continue doing tests. Did any of you have success with attempting something like this? I'll do a new attempt when I receive a new PF receiver, but any tips are of course welcome... Legotux
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Hello, I have been building with Lego technic and power functions for about 2 years now and like many others have discovered that the 7.2v of 6 rechargeable batteries is sometimes not enough for some creations. One day I found a old TYCO RC for free, looked at the battery and saw,"9.6v" I thought "SCORE!" and started making a adapter for it. I made this "Rat Rod" to test out how the extra 2.4v effected fast models. So enough talking here are the pics IMG_6020 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_6021 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr It uses: . Servo for steering. . 2 L-motors geared 3:1 for drive. . and obviously 1 custom battery "Box" The car was literately built around the Sbrick and has almost no open space in the chassis and it is very rigid for how small it is. The steering is regular rack and pinion and the L-motors were coupled together because there was sadly no room for a differential. I have not measured the top speed but I think it is around 6-10mph on a full charge. When I built the bodywork I tried to make it look tough and powerful almost like an armored bank vehicle. The battery almost took up all the space on the top so I had no room even to make a rough interior. I am not at all happy about the hood because of the steep angle and gaps but this was built just to test out the battery not to win a beauty award IMG_6024 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr Almost forgot the most important picture. Here's the video All pictures and more are on my Flickr account LINK Thank you for reading
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I have long awaited the moment that two race buggy motors would be in my reach, as they are quite expensive now... and I also bought the Lego Technic lipo battery two years ago. The perfect recipe for a small lightweight racer! Read the rest of the story at: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/424516. For now, there's just these two pictures and two videos. To post the photos on Eurobricks, I had to serieusly resize them. If you want to see the better quality images, just click this link: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=561899. All photos can also be found on the MocPage link, and can also be hosted from MocPages. This is because brickshelf has sometimes a rather long posting time. Please do not use THESE EXACT photos on another website, they are really at 10% of their real quality because Eurobricks requests it. The brickshelf photos are really better! -
King's Port Batteries, Terraversa, 16 August 620 (T-DAY-1) "And all around the shore, where cannons still roar, they're haunting my dreams, they're still there when I sleep" The Terraversans called them "Oldis' Fist", according to the intelligence. Probably it was one of the heaviest souvenirs left by the Mardierian army... and everybody could easily guess why it was left behind. That massive 64-pounder was for sure quite difficult to move by itself and, furthermore, it was on top of a steep cliff. For sure, it represented a real threat for an attacking fleet: that beast could throw a roundshot up to three kilometers far, or a shell filled with dozens of musket balls on a shorter range. If the defenders had the chance to make those "gift" rain on the ship decks or on the crowded longboats, it would have been a massacre. Moreover, the small promontory was surrounded by reefs and shallow waters, which made the approach difficult for bomb ketches... running aground in range of enemy batteries wasn't a great perspective! This was the reason why, the night before the main landing, Tristan and his men were in those small canoes, rowing towards a coast just slightly darker than the night sky. As several other times in the past, darkness was a good friend for them: they couldn't see the landing point, this was true, but they were also hidden from their enemies... and, if everything had gone as planned, they didn't need to find that small beach on their own. Flashes of light broke the pitch-black night, as a man waved a lantern on the coast... two flashes, a pause, two more flashes. The conveyed signal! Their man on Terraversa was telling them that the way was clear... or somebody had captured him, and now was dragging them all in a trap. Trying to be as quiet as possible, the rowers headed towards the shore, while the other soldiers, Rimbaud's Raiders and mountaineers of the 5eme regiment Pride of Guelph, grabbed muskets and sabers, ready to fight tooth and nail if they had been betrayed. The canoes scraped on the shoals, avoided some surfacing rocks and, at last, reached the small beach. Their man was waiting, hidden among the rocks and, fortunately, alone. That beach was too small for a proper landing, with only an old, half-crumbled mule track leading to the top of the cliff. A patrol checked it, now and then, but they were almost outside King's Port defensive system... if they had met a few soldiers, they would have easily got rid of them without noises, with knives or bows: some of the Raiders had spent years living with the natives and could use that weapon quite well. That night, however, they didn't meet anyone, either on the beach or along the trail. After a few hours of climbing, sliding and muffled cursings, the commando reached the top of the cliff. It would have been almost impossible without their local guide, and this explained that little hole in the Terraversan defenses. It was dawn. Below them, on the shiny sea, they saw the spectacle of the Oleander fleet: an endless row of ships of the line, frigates and galleons, with support ships and bomb ketches moving around... sails and flags waved in the wind, and hundreds of cannons shined in the gunports under the morning sun. It was impressive, but it also meant that they were late: they had to take the battery immediately, before it could fire on their comrades. There was no time for a plan, for a flanking attack, for a reconnaissance. A few cannonballs, fired from the distant fleet, stopped right in front of the battery, hitting the low wall with almost no force and sinking in the soft ground... Damn! A frontal assault was a bad perspective even without the risk of friendly fire! Reloading would have taken a few minutes, so that was their chance... hoping that down below they had good spyglasses! The Terraversans artillerymen were surprised as they were loading the first shot, but reacted quickly, grabbing weapons and tools. However, they were only a few, and they were not trained at all for close-quarter engagements... the fight to take the battery would have been fast and relatively easy. At least, in theory, thought Tristan as a Terraversan tried to split his head in half with a shovel. The bluecoats climbed the low wall and charged forward. That cannon would have not fired that day: whatever the cost, they would have taken the battery, and would have held it against the enemy counterattacks. Meanwhile, along the coast, dozens of cannons were blazing, and at least as many had been destroyed by the massive artillery barrage. One of the forts was burning, but also one of the largest battleships was tilting, and the sailors were jumping in the water. That day was going to be the longest in the whole life of hundreds of men. That day they were making history!
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Island Battery Just off of the shoreline on a small island, the marines at Brickford Landing have constructed a small cannon battery to aid in the new settlements defense. Island Battery 1 by LM71Blackbird, on Flickr Though it isn't a massive structure, it is a good first response to any threat that may try to reach the settlement. Island Battery 2 by LM71Blackbird, on Flickr A close up overview of the build: Island Battery 3 by LM71Blackbird, on Flickr ------------------------------------------- The next phase of building has begun for Brickford Landing! To be licensed by the faction as a small fort. C&C are welcome and appreciated! -
For Power Function Train, which do you prefer type of battery power function? Both have it own pro and con.... Power Functions Rechargeable Battery Box 8878 Or Power Functions AAA Battery Box 88000 VOTE HERE POLL! http://www.poll-maker.com/poll116886x56B946D1-4 Not know the different in both battery? read on more below. Power Functions Rechargeable Battery Box 8878 It rechaged by plug into the wall input. very convince way to recharge it up. But the question is how long dose the battery cycle life span last in long term? If it ran out of cycle charging out, you have to buy the new one for retail value USD $49.99. Very easy to leave the battery in the lego train and just put wire in the train while charge without need take them part to replace it. Power Functions AAA Battery Box 88000 The most cheaper battery pack retail value USD $12.99 that require you to put in 6 AAA battery, value of it may be reasonable if you use rechargeable AAA battery instead of disposable battery. For long term, you can have that one pack for life time and easy replace the old aaa battery for cheaper. But depend on the train lego, some will require you more time to take lego apart to pull out the battery AAA battery, recharge it, put back in LEGO train to play with it. VOTE HERE POLL! http://www.poll-maker.com/poll116886x56B946D1-4 -
Hi guys! I'm thrilled to release MiniZip; the adapter that lets you power your lego creations from a 9 volt battery! I am releasing it on Kickstarter to cover the production costs, and I need your help to do so! You can see the full project here: https://www.kickstar...-lego-creations Here's a video about it: Thank you for your support! -
I know there is a lot of buzz about Chineese clones nowadays, but this is not a clonning brand and the product is very different from BuWizz, only sharing its form factor with it. I have discussed it with @Jim and he gave me permission to make this topic. Please refrain from meaningless post that you hate anything from China and that you wouldn't buy this. Thank you I have stumbled across a very interesting piece of hardware recenty - rechargable battery with four motor outputs AND remote controller - CADA remote control. The most interesting feature is indeed dedicated controller, unlike buwizz/sbrick there is no need for smart phone. I guess video (taken by František Hajdekr) is better than words: I can only say FINALLY, the need for smart phone is what makes buwizz/sbrick unusable for me, I just want plain controller, ready in 1 second and recharchable battery. The biggest question is of course what kind of hardware is inside the BB. The only info is that the battery inside is Li-ion, no info about capacity. I'm also very interested in motor controlling chip. I don't expect it will be comparable in power with BuWizz, I expect it to be better verision of LEGO Li-pol battery. So if there is anyone here who already purchased it and is willing to open it to give us some details, I would appreciate it. -
Looks like LEGO have retired the LEGO® Power Functions Rechargeable Battery Box 8878 according to the product pages. Does anyone know if they are replacing this with anything new or whether we just have to use the AAA standard battery box going forward?
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Almost all my MOCs are motorized but I always have felt admiration for the manual ones and in the end play with them is almost the same. Of course that some of them have to be motorized like trial trucks but I think that the machinery for example would be funny to play motorized or not, what do you think?, what are they advantages and disadvantages in your opinion?. I start first, manual ones would be cheaper and easier to scale well so you have a lot of them to choose in the other hand motorized ones are expensive and you have to find machines where you can put all the components respecting its scale which is always a big problem but in the end you are doing something that moves by itself... it is difficult to choose... I would like to start manual MOCs just to not to see more wires anymore... -
Hi all, I present my second train creation in bricks here An invented shunting engine to power my RENFE Bed-car 9600 Series This is not a nice, or real shunting engine, but works well and have enought torque to move the cars without problem. and work in all Lego train curves The motor is a 88002, that have more power that I thought, the tip is to put weight on it to prevent slippage of the wheels. Is full PF with a custom Li-Ion battery (2500mAh in this case) Detail of the custom PF Li-Ion Battery Pulling the Bed-car The No-Conventional coupling A Conventional Old-magnets coupling I hope you enjoy it
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Custom RC System
z3_2drive posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
First here are the links to all the parts in the system excluding battery and project box: *Motor controller: http://www.pololu.com/product/777 Receiver/Transmitter: http://www.rcplanet...._p/futk3100.htm *The motor controller I linked is the heavy-duty model that I used in my models, but there is a smaller, less powerful and cheaper version too* Ah I guess I'll link it too... Motor Controller(smaller option): http://www.pololu.com/product/767 Now, Here is the fully explained system: First: the jumble of lego wires on the left are the four wires that connect to the RC Buggy motors. the lego wire coming from the left is an extension to the servo. the red/white wires connect the controller and receiver the black and red wires connect to the port on the right, which you then plug a battery into. Second: the four lego motor wires are put together into one pair, which connects to the first two ports of the controller- Third:The red/black wires, which supply the power from the battery, connect into the 3rd and 4th port. *(There are six ports in total, where you see the screw-heads)* Fourth: Here is the tricky part The servo wire is made up of four small wires. Two of these supply power, and two control the movements of the servo. The two that supply the power are connected to port 3 and 4, with the battery wires. The two that control movement are connected to port 5 and 6, all by themselves. ^^^ so the way it is seen here is: SERVOCONTROL1--SERVOCONTROL2--SERVO/BATTERYPOWER1--SERVO/BATTERYPOWER2--MOTORCONTROL1--MOTORCONTROL2 Ok, so port 1/2 control buggy motors, port 3/4 give power to the system, port 5/6 control servo Here it shows how 1/2 and 5/6 correspond to two channels on the receiver: The red/white wires connect to channel 1 & 2 on the receiver: And finally here it is all together again: Sorry for the baby steps but I wanted to be clear. To know which wires from the servo control and give power, simply test with a multimeter and have this at your disposal: -
Dear Friends: As a part of my middle school science Olympiad competition I built a battery buggy using Lego pieces like axels, gears, motor, battery etc but this project requires motorized vehicle to stop automatically after going for certain distance (9 to 12 meters) and I am unable to make any progress on stopping part. Does you guys have recommendations please? Thanks, John D
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Hello Recently I bought a Mindstorms NXT programmable brick plus a rechargeable battery 9798 from someone on eBay. What the seller didn't mention is that the battery is slightly swollen. You can just about make it out in this terrible picture (sorry) : 20140918_193625 by freshfroot1, on Flickr So basically is has a slightly rounded top and bottom. I know that swelling up is normal for some batteries of this type and age (there are many cases of Apple MacBooks that have basically burst apart because of the same problem). It's not too bad yet and the battery still holds a charge. But I'd be interested to know if anyone else has experienced something similar, and if so, if it is possible to predict how long the battery will last. I know this could probably be a random number but I would be interested in others' experience anyway. Also what happens if it gets worse- does the battery split apart, just simply fail, explode dramatically? I'm not really bothered about it because the price I paid was about average for the NXT brick by itself. Also I'd expect it to be very unlikely that Lego would replace it, since it is probably several years old, is discontinued (replaced by 9693) and is probably counted as a consumable item anyway. Thanks --- EvilTwin -
Hello, Technic, Mindstorms & Model Team people. I asked this question over at the Town forum (I'm trying to motorize some Fairground sets), but I think it might be better suited for his forum. Is there a difference between the technic-styled battery box (the one with the two sliding DBG panels for the battries) and the system-styled one? I only own technic-styled battery boxes, and I don't know if the system boxes give the motors different speeds or what. I already know there's an expensive system battery box that lets you regulate the speed, but I'd rather regulate the speed by using different cog sizes than shell out around 70CAD for a battery box. -
There has been some rumors that I am not capable to make new quizzes. This is NOT true! I come back with new quizzes. For warm-up, let's stick to 4.5v battery wagons again! After the successful quiz N1: which was followed with a new item on bricklink: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=x488c03&idColor=5 now again: what do you find uncommon in this photo? I have told the answer to few friends. Please do not spoil. If you know the answer, you can pm me then I comment that you know the answer so that people can think about this photo for few days. There are gonna be harder quizzes, so prepare for them! ;-) :-) Have fun.
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Hi All, I'm starting to run some train layouts and wondered why idle/standby times are one the different battery boxes? 1: The Rechargeable box/8878: - what is the 'turn off' time? It seems to turn itself off after some time.. 15, 20 minutes? 2: Standby times expected? Anyone know how much power is used by the IR receiver or the SBrick if the box is left on? Both for the 8878 and the 8881 AA-Technic box? If I hook it up with a IR Receiver and leave it on, how many hours should I expect it to be idle if the motors is not running? Thanks in advance,
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Hello everyone at eurobricks! I'm new in this forum. I decided to open an account, so I can share my simple mod. About two years ago I got the Motorized Excavator 8043. The model is awesome, I think it has been one of the most beautiful and complete sets. Since the model needs 6 batteries, I decided to use Ni-MH rechargeable batteries. The only problem is that this kind of batteries provide only 1.2 Volts, therefore, the PF battery pack only achieves 7.2 volts with 6 batteries, instead of the 9 required (and provided by 6 alcaline batteries). I don't want to spend money on disposable expensive batteries. I decided to look for a way to use 8 batteries and provide 9.6 Volts Long ago I found a mod where the user used a standard battery pack. I can't found the post to thank the guy who did it. Here's what I used: 2x Battery Holder 4xAA 2x 9V Battery Clip 8x 1.2 Volt Rechargeable Batteries 1x Switch (I didnt connected it, but you can) Wiring: -You can use a PF cable to do this (Search in the forum/web there are lots of tutorials). -OR you can canibalize the original battery box (PF extension wire is not available in my country D: ) I won't write, since the images explain it clearly: Wiring Diagram por Teleing, en Flickr Connection diagram por Teleing, en Flickr Use a bit of glue por Teleing, en Flickr Overview por Teleing, en Flickr Modifications on the Excavator: From book 1, page 61: Replace Steps 4~8 For the following: New Step por Teleing, en Flickr (You can take the black piece from the spare parts included in the model) With this we can allow the battery pack to have enough space in the excavator. Now it's pretty simple, you connect the battery box and take it in place: I used the grey part to hold the wires in place I also did a little review of the improvements between 7.2 and 9.6 V: 8043test.txt The general improvement was about 30%, You can see immediately the excavator is faster, lifting the boom, rotating, etc. AND, the gear switch moves smoothly. FULL GALLERY http://www.flickr.com/photos/teleing/ Thanks for reading, hope my work is useful to you. -
Hi, hope it's ok to start a new topic about this but I searched a didn't find a suitable, current thread related solely to trains. The best PF battery threads are several years old now and are mostly geared toward Technic. I'm mulling over whether to get the 8878 Rechargeable Battery Box (US$ 50) or use the 88000 Battery Box (US$ 13 and included in many sets) and then use rechargeable batteries in that. I have a young child so I don't want to use LiPo rechargeables in 88000 (because of possible safety issues) but from what I've read, Lego has protection circuitry built into their 8878 LiPo Rechargeable Battery Box. If I go with the 88000 then those 3rd generation Eneloop NiMH rechargeables seem to be the way to go. I don't really mind swapping out batteries but they only deliver 7.2v. Apparently Lego claims that their 8878 Rechargeable Battery Box delivers 7.4v so that seems to be a selling point but is it noticeable in any way? What are your thoughts on this? What do you use for your PF trains? Do you use both 8878 and 88000 with NiMH rechargeables and do you notice any performance differences between the two? Personally I'm not planning on having any monster-long trains or hills but who knows what the future has in store? Ok, thanks in advance, Joe
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